Post your Schwinn Voyageur!
#201
Useless Member
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And you know, I really didn't know it was that special, thinking it was along the lines of the LeTour I have from the same year. I gave $75 for that one. I realized once I saw the quality of the paint, the components, and the chrome chain stay (which I later found out much more was chrome under the paint, including the fork) I had something a bit better than our average Schwinn. I did know Panasonic did the frames though. What I really like about this frame is how the seat stay wraps above the top tube and the seat tube and tapers off perfectly. A really nice touch for the 86 models.
#202
aka Tom Reingold
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Yup. I'm a lot less of a fan of Schwinns than many Americans, but the Voyager is one classy bike.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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#203
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Bikes: 1951 Sun Wasp, 1953 Armstrong Consort, 1975 Raleigh Competition, 1980 Apollo Gran Sport, 1988 Schwinn Voyageur, Mystery MTB
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Hi everyone. My '90 Voyageur has its original Suntour XCE drivetrain, including Accushift Plus bar end shifters which I like very much. Original Suntour Accushift 7sp cassettes are going for wacko money on the 'Bay so I did replace mine with a Shimano unit. I have to say that this hasn't been great for quality shifts, and I think I'm going to run the derailer shifter in friction mode once I have a new derailer to install so that the Shimano piece and the Suntour pieces get along a little better. The bike will need new shift cables too since the original cables and housing are still installed.
Anyway, I think it is time for a Suntour upgrade along with the other needed work. The bike is a tourer and will remain my primary long distance rider for trips, cycle camping, and some commutes, and this year I plan to ride a lot more and do a whole bunch of trips. The Shimano cassette has a 34t big cog, and I was thinking of using the Suntour VX-GT long cage derailer since they seem to go for a more reasonable cost than Cyclone I or II, and according to velobase it'll shift to that cog. I'm still relatively new to the world of parts commonalities and what works with what, and your suggestions would be welcome.
I'm not interested in getting rid of the Suntour pieces, because the bar-ends work so well, and I have a soft side for well-made old mech. Thanks.
Anyway, I think it is time for a Suntour upgrade along with the other needed work. The bike is a tourer and will remain my primary long distance rider for trips, cycle camping, and some commutes, and this year I plan to ride a lot more and do a whole bunch of trips. The Shimano cassette has a 34t big cog, and I was thinking of using the Suntour VX-GT long cage derailer since they seem to go for a more reasonable cost than Cyclone I or II, and according to velobase it'll shift to that cog. I'm still relatively new to the world of parts commonalities and what works with what, and your suggestions would be welcome.
I'm not interested in getting rid of the Suntour pieces, because the bar-ends work so well, and I have a soft side for well-made old mech. Thanks.
#204
ambulatory senior
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Not sure if i posted in this thread or not, but this has become my daily driver.
Good shopper
My custom 7 speed cassette... 12,14,16,18,22,28,36
Ancient shimano deore crank and pedals with 26,40 micro crank rings from t.a.
Good shopper
My custom 7 speed cassette... 12,14,16,18,22,28,36
Ancient shimano deore crank and pedals with 26,40 micro crank rings from t.a.
#205
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Southwest Ohio
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Bikes: Wow, where to start? A collection of 1980's and early 90's road, touring, and MTBs from the likes of Trek, Schwinn, Cannondale, Fuji, Miyata, Univega, Panasonic, and GT. It has gotten rather out of control.
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I got lucky and landed a time-capsule 1984 Schwinn Voyageur today in my size and at a reasonable price. All original including the rear rack and the Schwinn Passage tires!
1984 Schwinn Voyageur
1984 Schwinn Voyageur
Last edited by casanewt; 04-09-20 at 07:16 PM.
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#206
ambulatory senior
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#208
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: North of Boston
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Bikes: 1973 Schwinn Sports Tourer plus a " few" more :)
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GREAT SCORE !!!!
VERY nice condition !!!!
Cannot beat these old Schwinns !!!!!
The 70s and early 80s are my favorite bikes !!!!
VERY nice condition !!!!
Cannot beat these old Schwinns !!!!!
The 70s and early 80s are my favorite bikes !!!!
#209
Full Member
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Bikes: Wow, where to start? A collection of 1980's and early 90's road, touring, and MTBs from the likes of Trek, Schwinn, Cannondale, Fuji, Miyata, Univega, Panasonic, and GT. It has gotten rather out of control.
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I love your custom gearing on this. Compact gearing with older parts. That is cool.
#210
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Bikes: Schwinn Voyageur 1986
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I am still enjoying my 1986 Voyageur, which I purchased new and it's still in great shape. I would post a photo, but as a new member here, I don't yet have that privilege.
#211
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#212
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#213
ambulatory senior
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Both look great. Mine is currently hooked to my ikea trailer. It pulls beautifully.
#214
Full Member
‘83 SP getting good use. Recent updates include a Brooks Cambium Organic Light saddle, and last summer I cold set the rear triangle to 130mm and laced 9-speed Ultegra hubs to Pacenti Brevet rims. The Shimano 600EX derailleurs shift just fine with 9 speed. Need to swap in new 35c Rene Herse tires soon, but otherwise it’s ready for the season!
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#215
Somewhat slow older guy
For those of you who have swapped in 700c wheels- how did you deal with the brake conversion, specifically the front brake. I'm having problems getting mine to adjust correctly, but then again I might not have the original fork, and I'm pretty sure that the brakes aren't original. The rear was no problem.
Mine's an '83, FWIW. Would really like to get this going, as it could be pretty useful to me.
Mine's an '83, FWIW. Would really like to get this going, as it could be pretty useful to me.
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#216
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For those of you who have swapped in 700c wheels- how did you deal with the brake conversion, specifically the front brake. I'm having problems getting mine to adjust correctly, but then again I might not have the original fork, and I'm pretty sure that the brakes aren't original. The rear was no problem.
Mine's an '83, FWIW. Would really like to get this going, as it could be pretty useful to me.
Mine's an '83, FWIW. Would really like to get this going, as it could be pretty useful to me.
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Andy
Andy
Last edited by beicster; 05-10-20 at 05:23 PM.
#217
Somewhat slow older guy
Thanks- I'll have a look.
#218
Extraordinary Magnitude
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Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
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For those of you who have swapped in 700c wheels- how did you deal with the brake conversion, specifically the front brake. I'm having problems getting mine to adjust correctly, but then again I might not have the original fork, and I'm pretty sure that the brakes aren't original. The rear was no problem.
Mine's an '83, FWIW. Would really like to get this going, as it could be pretty useful to me.
Mine's an '83, FWIW. Would really like to get this going, as it could be pretty useful to me.
I have an 84 Voyageur SP- the posts are spaced REALLY close together in the front- seriously 5.5mm. That impacts how much room the post is going to be able to angle down. Generally, I'll suggest using a brake like the Deore XT BR-MC70, M732 or the Deore MT-60 or MT-62. IMO- those are the most adjustable of the old cantilevers.
MC70M732MT62 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#219
Somewhat slow older guy
Thanks for those, Dave.
I'll have a look for those brake sets once my local Coop re-opens. I volunteer there, and found this frame & fork hanging in the back - saw canti bosses and 3 bottle mounts and said "Hmmm." I had a Shimano 8-speed STI group waiting for a project, so put this together entirely from Co-op parts. The front cantis are the only thing I can't get right yet.
I'll have a look for those brake sets once my local Coop re-opens. I volunteer there, and found this frame & fork hanging in the back - saw canti bosses and 3 bottle mounts and said "Hmmm." I had a Shimano 8-speed STI group waiting for a project, so put this together entirely from Co-op parts. The front cantis are the only thing I can't get right yet.
#220
Full Member
For those of you who have swapped in 700c wheels- how did you deal with the brake conversion, specifically the front brake. I'm having problems getting mine to adjust correctly, but then again I might not have the original fork, and I'm pretty sure that the brakes aren't original. The rear was no problem.
Mine's an '83, FWIW. Would really like to get this going, as it could be pretty useful to me.
Mine's an '83, FWIW. Would really like to get this going, as it could be pretty useful to me.
Important to note -- I didn't use the stock brake pads that it came with, because they didn't reach the rim well enough. Upfront, I used Kool Stop thinline, and then in the rear (wider space) I used Kool Stop Eagle 2's. It's not amazing modulation, but good enough for loaded touring and long descents.
#221
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I can only really speak to my '83 SP, and the answer was Shimano CX-70 (or CX50, same shape and specs) brakes after trying five other types (incl. vintage Dia Compe).
Important to note -- I didn't use the stock brake pads that it came with, because they didn't reach the rim well enough. Upfront, I used Kool Stop thinline, and then in the rear (wider space) I used Kool Stop Eagle 2's. It's not amazing modulation, but good enough for loaded touring and long descents.
Important to note -- I didn't use the stock brake pads that it came with, because they didn't reach the rim well enough. Upfront, I used Kool Stop thinline, and then in the rear (wider space) I used Kool Stop Eagle 2's. It's not amazing modulation, but good enough for loaded touring and long descents.
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Andy
Andy
#222
Full Member
Front with thin line kool stops, clears the fork blades and has good toe in
Rear with Eagle 2’s. I’ll probably switch to thinline’s back here too because the toe in doesn’t work as well. Mix/matching parts here so it’s to be expected
#224
Albatross bars are cool!!
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Hey, since you all know about Voyageurs ...
1) What is the BB height/drop?
2) What is the chainstay length?
I know these may have varied year to year ....
I'm looking at contenders to replace my Raleigh Alyeska frame, and I've found decent deals on a couple of Voyageurs, one with canti brakes, one without.
1) What is the BB height/drop?
2) What is the chainstay length?
I know these may have varied year to year ....
I'm looking at contenders to replace my Raleigh Alyeska frame, and I've found decent deals on a couple of Voyageurs, one with canti brakes, one without.
#225
Albatross bars are cool!!
Join Date: Mar 2010
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