Helderberg

I am having a heck of a time adjusting the trim portion of the R7000 front D on my gravel bike. It came along with the 105 mech group so all of the supporting pieces match up. The lack of a barrel adjuster with the tension screw on the FD has got me stumped. I have down loaded the on line manual and have followed it to the letter, as I have read it, and the upper trim works fine but the the lower gear, on the small chainring, clicks but I have to put my finger on it to tell that it has moved at all. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I realize the bike is new and it can be brought back to the shop and that is fine. I just want to be able to make any fine adjustments to it as the cables relax and I don't have to be running back to the mother ship every time a screw needs to be turned.
Thanks again, Frank.

redlude97

What happens when you open up the limit screw a bit? Is it not moving much because it's hitting the limit screw or is there still tension?

Helderberg

At this point I have the high limit screw set so the outer edge of the FD cage is out as far as I feel is safe. If I set ti out further I also pick up contact on the inner cage when the rear cogs are two gears from the lowest gear. The part I am having the hardest time understanding is how much tension should I preload on the FD when setting the cable up before setting the fine adjustment when in the trim position. It seems that the low trim position needs more cable tension than I can add without messing up my high setting for the larger chainset gear. I should also add that the cog group is an 11 gear set 11-34 and the crank is 46/30.
Thanks for the response, Frank.

tomtomtom123

I didn't really understand the problem. Did you add more cable tension with a barrel adjuster (or some other mechanism) or if not, why could you not? The H-limit screw will stop the FD from moving any further out, so you can add as much cable tension as you like (up to some limit). If triggering between L-trim and low index makes no movement of the FD, then the cable is too slack. Add more cable tension.

I don't know about your shifter, but I thought typically from inside to outside is, 1) L-trim, 2) low index, 3) H-trim, 4) high index.

• Shift to high index and 11T cog. Add cable tension and then set the H-limit screw until you have like 0.5-1.0mm gap between the chain and the outer FD cage plate.
• At this point, cable tension should exceed the H-limit screw. Now test the shift between the inner and outer chainrings. If the chain has difficultly shifting, adjust the H-limit screw to bring the FD a little bit more outward. If the cable then becomes too slack, then add a little bit more cable tension.
• Shift the RD to inner cogs until the chain starts to rub on the inner FD cage plate. This is the cog where you must switch the FD to H-trim position. You only need to remember this cog, it doesn't really affect the adjustment. On my old setup with a 10 speed FD-4700, the cog where the chain started to rub the FD while on high index was the 6th gear (5th cog from the outside).
• Then Shift the FD to H-trim. And continue to shift the RD to the largest innermost cog. Now you want to release or add cable tension until the chain clears the inner FD cage plate by 0.5-1.0mm, but if you release cable tension then you need to double check that you don't release too much tension that the high index position starts to move inward, or that you start to have trouble getting the chain to move from inner to outer chainrings.
• Then Shift the FD to L-trim position. The RD should still be on the largest innermost cog. Adjust the L-limit screw until there is only 0.5-1.0mm gap between the inner FD cage plate and the chain. The cable tension should theoretically be slack now, at the L-trim position.
• Now shift the RD outward to outer cogs until the chain starts to rub on the outer FD cage plate. This cog is where you must shift the FD to low index position (for me it was 7th gear). Shift the FD to low index position. If there is enough cable tension, you should be able to now shift the RD all the way to 11T without chain rub on the outer FD cage. If there is rub, then add some cable tension until there is no more chain rub. However, adding too much tension will start to cause the chain to rub the FD when on the outer chainring and the innermost cogs.
• If either 30T FD and 11T RD, or 46T FD and 34T RD are rubbing, then you just have to decide which one of these 2 that you prefer to have no rub, and adjust the cable tension to clear that one.
• Try shifting the chain between the inner and outer chainrings. If you have problems with it, add some more cable tension.

If you still get too much cable slack, then something else is wrong.

• Check the cable routing at the cable clamp on the FD, so that you're getting the correct cable pull ratio.
• Check the support bolt on the FD so that it is contacting the support plate on the seat tube. If it's not supporting, it's possible that the first few amount of cable pull doesn't move the FD.
• Check the lateral angle of the FD cage plate to the chainrings. If the cage tail is swung too far inward, it may cause trim problems.

Helderberg

WOW!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to help me. This is so much better than the online manual. I can not thank you enough. If you ever have a question about domestic plumbing fixtures please feel free to ask.
Thank you again, Frank.