Quick questions and answers
09-13-16, 01:42 PM
#1276
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Possibly a dumb question
I have a steel bianchi pista, and a state black label, and according to my scale ( a super cheap, questionably inaccurate spring luggage scale ) they weigh within a half pound of each other, despite the state having much lighter parts ( full carbon fork,saddle, bars, brakes, seatpost ) compared to the bianchi with its heavy brooks saddle.
Am I crazy, or is the weight difference between alum. and steel frames pretty blown out of proportion? or more than likely, my cheap scale being cheap and inaccurate.
I have a steel bianchi pista, and a state black label, and according to my scale ( a super cheap, questionably inaccurate spring luggage scale ) they weigh within a half pound of each other, despite the state having much lighter parts ( full carbon fork,saddle, bars, brakes, seatpost ) compared to the bianchi with its heavy brooks saddle.
Am I crazy, or is the weight difference between alum. and steel frames pretty blown out of proportion? or more than likely, my cheap scale being cheap and inaccurate.
09-13-16, 02:19 PM
#1277
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As long as the scale is precise it should give you the weight of the bikes relative to each other.
Accuracy has to do with being close to the truth. Precision has to do with repeatablity.
If you can weigh one bike repeatedly and the scale gives the same reading every time then at least it is precise. It may not be accurate but it will give you the weight of each bike relative to the other bike.
What is he uncertainty of the scale? How does the dial read? If the scale reads in 5lb increments then the scale is not capable of +/-one half pound - you have too much uncertainty. If on the other hand, it reads down to the ounce then one half pound is well within the scale's uncertainty.
Bottom line - you probably need a better scale.
Accuracy has to do with being close to the truth. Precision has to do with repeatablity.
If you can weigh one bike repeatedly and the scale gives the same reading every time then at least it is precise. It may not be accurate but it will give you the weight of each bike relative to the other bike.
What is he uncertainty of the scale? How does the dial read? If the scale reads in 5lb increments then the scale is not capable of +/-one half pound - you have too much uncertainty. If on the other hand, it reads down to the ounce then one half pound is well within the scale's uncertainty.
Bottom line - you probably need a better scale.
09-13-16, 02:59 PM
#1278
Your cog is slipping.
Good aluminum frames are usually very light. Low-grade aluminum frames are not.
09-13-16, 03:19 PM
#1279
Your cog is slipping.
How many more times are you going to ask?
09-14-16, 09:28 PM
#1280
Fresh Garbage
That's a bastard bike list. I would avoid all of those.
These bikes were developmental stepping stones in the evolution of the modern carbon and aluminum bikes we know of today. Manufacturers learned from their mistakes producing these!
The vintage lugged carbon frames such as the 2300, epic, and allez are all glued together. The epoxy that's holding them together, is way past their estimated useful life. Becoming brittle and losing their bond, making tube separation very commonplace under more vigorous riding. The newest of those would turn 18 years old this year. I definitely would not decend a mountain road on one. Alan is another brand that produced similar carbon bikes, avoid those as well.
The same goes for techniums and vitus frames which are also glued together except with aluminum tubing instead of carbon. The instances of separation are lower, although still present, on these than the prior carbon bunch.
These bikes were developmental stepping stones in the evolution of the modern carbon and aluminum bikes we know of today. Manufacturers learned from their mistakes producing these!
The vintage lugged carbon frames such as the 2300, epic, and allez are all glued together. The epoxy that's holding them together, is way past their estimated useful life. Becoming brittle and losing their bond, making tube separation very commonplace under more vigorous riding. The newest of those would turn 18 years old this year. I definitely would not decend a mountain road on one. Alan is another brand that produced similar carbon bikes, avoid those as well.
The same goes for techniums and vitus frames which are also glued together except with aluminum tubing instead of carbon. The instances of separation are lower, although still present, on these than the prior carbon bunch.
09-29-16, 04:01 PM
#1281
Senior Member
Should I buy this:
2015 Specialized Crux EVO size 54
Or a brand new one of these:
Same price. Main bike. Want to do some CX and heart is with SS/ fixed but also wouldn't mind trying to be competitive.
2015 Specialized Crux EVO size 54
Or a brand new one of these:
Same price. Main bike. Want to do some CX and heart is with SS/ fixed but also wouldn't mind trying to be competitive.
09-29-16, 04:29 PM
#1282
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I would probably go with the All-City. I own two Specialized bikes, and you know, I just don't really like them. Don't get me wrong, they are decent bikes, but there is just something about the brand that I cannot get over. The size/geometry of the frame, the stigma with them, something.
09-29-16, 05:39 PM
#1284
Senior Member
09-29-16, 08:11 PM
#1285
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I bought one, traded a fat bike for the other, both used from a friend. One is a single speed mtb that I have turned into an abomination of a commuter and the other a CX bike. Got good deals on both. Would not have bought them new.
SS is rolling on Stan's Arch EX laced to Chris King hubs on Continental City Ride II's. It is like 34:13 or something like that and currently rolling a Cinelli Pepper bar with OURY lock ons and has Shimano hydraulic disc brakes. It is so wrong that it is right.
SS is rolling on Stan's Arch EX laced to Chris King hubs on Continental City Ride II's. It is like 34:13 or something like that and currently rolling a Cinelli Pepper bar with OURY lock ons and has Shimano hydraulic disc brakes. It is so wrong that it is right.
09-30-16, 10:48 AM
#1288
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Depends. Have the crank bolts been fully tightened, such that the crank arms won't get any closer to the chainstays ? As long as the frame doesn't flex sufficiently for the ends of the cranks to contact the chainstays, I wouldn't worry about it. My 2011 Soma Rush is like that, and has never been a problem.
09-30-16, 12:00 PM
#1289
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I had the same setup before other than my size was 49, almost the same crank arm clearance. The crank ended up hitting the chainstay whenever I pedaled. Get a longer ISO bottom bracket, maybe one of those Campagnolo centaur bb.
09-30-16, 06:21 PM
#1293
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The real question -- if you do that, is it Sugrampy or Campino?
09-30-16, 11:07 PM
#1295
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Any recommendations for a road drop bar, 31.8 clamp, classic-ish bend (I'm kinda not into compact), with 80mm reach or more? So far I've turned up Zipp Service Course 80/88 and not much else.
10-01-16, 08:46 AM
#1296
Your cog is slipping.
10-07-16, 07:13 PM
#1300
Clark W. Griswold
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I personablly like my Zipp Service Course SL-70 Ergos, I don't know if they are the best but for me they are pretty darn close. I wouldn't change much unless I could change metallurgy itself and make the exact same bar from steel or titanium with the same durability and shape, with similar or less weight.