djb

About 4 years ago I bought an Ortlieb bag to replace my old barbag, and when I boxed and flew with my bike at that time, I undid the stem from the steerer and left the mount on the stem/bars , and rigged up a cardboard tube with tape to keep the fork from falling out, with the top cap screwed in as if the stem was there. This was my old mtn bike with riser bars.
A year or so after that I bought a new mount to put on a diff bike with drops, as I had sqwershed the ortlieb cable of the first mount, and didnt want to remove and install it a third time (on the first bike I had changed a stem at some point, diff bars). A new mount was not much more than just a cable, and it simplified things.

now with a third bike, I took my newer mount and put it on the new bike, again being careful not to overtighten and squish the cable. (cable was in good shape)

do you have other ideas of how to box a bike where i can leave the mount on the stem and drop bars of the new bike, or any other way to avoid having to remove the bar mount again. I havent boxed a drop bar bike in ages, so am wondering it might be easier if the stem stays on the bike, but to do that, I've have to remove the ortlieb mount again, which ideally I'd like to avoid.

I realize one option is to put on a second stem for the bag mount, and that can easily stay on the steerer with the dropbars off, but if I can avoid this, it woiuld be nice, and also I'd have to see how that would fit in with the cables etc of the Gevenalle shifters I have on now. Probably would be ok, but figured I'd ask for some ideas or insights into avoiding removing the mount.
I suspect the drop bars might fit in easier in the box withotu the stem on them, but I will have to muck around with this at another time, as I dont have a bike box at the moment (not a plane ticket either, but figured I'd ask this question in advance )

so what do you ortlieb mount users do when packing up a drop bar bike?
I realize the easiest way to go might just be removing the mount at boxing time, but am open to ideas.

thanks.

gauvins

Not sure I fully understand the situation, but:

I have an Ortlieb bag and have no problem removing my handlebars to store the bike in a flightbag.

1. Loosen the bottom right screw, the last that you've tightened when installing the mount.

2. Loosen the top left fastener, which is used to tighten the cable. (Usually tightened after securing the cable with bottom-left screw)

3. You should now be able to rotate the mount 90 degrees up or down, to reveal the stem's faceplate.

4. Remove the faceplate.

5. Remove the handlebars

6. Slide the mount off the stem. (Or leave dangling)

Easy.

There is no need to loosen the bottom left screw, although if you didn't mash the cable housing it is reasonable to hope being able to re use it with, maybe, a little patience.

antokelly

buy a klickfix bracket.

rzldzl

I'm not sure I am understanding your problem correctly but the only time I had to box a bike for travel I left the bars, stem and mount as one unit. I use one of these (Problem Solvers) to hold the fork to the frame and avoid having to mess with loading the headset when I arrived at my destination.
I also use the KlickFix mount for my Ortlieb bag as any old length of brake cable can be used when it is neccesary to remove the mount.

fietsbob

this... Ortlieb can hang off the R&K bar bracket.. Its 2 U Brackets & short *cable.

are simpler than the figure 8 looped cable, for everything, Ortlieb uses..

I have an 'ultimate ' 3.. back then the cable wrapped 4x around the bar (26mm Sleeve center)on each end.

* that cable is just a plastic coated length of like scrap brake cable, easily replaced...



Yes, stack 2 threadless stems on the steerer, straight tube in the lower one.

mount the bag on the lower stem , slip both stems off when you pack.. one will have the bar bag mount on it.


SJS cycles UK makes a T and clamp combo piece . 1 bolt, not as much under bar-stem steerer spacers needed..




...

Tourist in MSN

I use a bag other than Ortlieb, but it mounts quite similar to Ortlieb. When I wanted to replace the fancy plastic coated cable, I just wrapped some electrical tape around the part of some old brake cable that contacts the stem and used that cable. Stainless is reasonably rust free, don't use galvanized. When I install new brake cables, I keep the cut off left over in case I might need it later for a bar bag clamp.

I used a second stem in the first photo. The second photo uses the Thorn Accessory Bar which serves the same purpose as a second stem. But for my S&S bike, I have to remove the fork and I really see that as not a hassle at all, I put the headset parts back on the fork in the correct order and use a rubber binder to hold it on. Or, if you wanted to keep the fork in the frame without a stem, use a good quality hose clamp from a hardware store or auto repair store as a substitute for the stem to hold it all in place.

Doug64

+1 I essentially do it the same way. I use my canti brake cable stop to hold my fork in place, and loosen the bars in the stem so it can be be moved a little for packing. I still use my Ortlieb mounts.

On your bike with disc brakes, the Problem Solver takes the place of one of your spacers, and will hold the fork in place. That is the way my wife's bike is set up with V-brakes. Also, there is no bother of readjusting headset. Replace the spacers on the steerer tube after removing the stem and bars, and use the top cap to hold spacers on the fork during packing—nothing gets lost.

Removing the bars and stem as a unit will usually give enough flexibility to pack the bike.

I usually just hang the bars from the top tube, and slip the front wheel into the box wherever it will fit best.

spinnaker

I have a second stem. Ortlieb bracket is mounted to that. I just remove the stem when I remove my handlebars.

djb

thanks for all the suggestions, ya I figure that I will just do what Doug did and leave the stem and mount and bars all together and drape teh bars over the toptube like he did.
I've ridden the bike with the handlebar bag on it and with front panniers and it handles fine, but I could see that a second stem would be nice to lower the bag weight down a bit, and as a bonus, it would allow me to bring the interrupter brake levers back up to a more natural position, I had to angle them down a bit more than I'd like, but its not a big deal.

good tip on the r+k mount and using a brake cable with electric tape over it, will keep that fix in mind if I ever go that route.

Doug, dumb question, but in your photo, where the stem was on the steerer there is nothing there, it was here that I rigged up some cardboard with tape around to form a tube to go in place of the stem--don't you need something to take the place of the stem or is it ok like that? I did this 4 yrs ago now, but it seems to me that I had to improvise that doohickey for the top circular plate thingee to be able to sit upon my cardboard "tube" to be able to tighten the hex bolt that goes down into the star nut inside the steerer (and thus keeping the fork from falling out when lifting the bike into the box, and also keeping the fork from moving around against the headtube---ah, now I see that that lock thing Problem solver locks onto the steerer and keeps things from moving around....gotcha. As noted, I guess a pipe clamp would do the same thing....I have some kicking around. Might put some tape on the steerer to not scratch it with the roughness of a clamp.

again, thanks for the ideas to a bit of a simple question. I didnt really think it through properly, it helps having your comments.

Doug64

David, this is a better picture of the Problem Solver. I think it is about the same as a 10 mm spacer. It really makes life easier. It never comes off the steerer tube except for servicing or if you need/want to remove fork.

saddlesores

how much did that "problem solver" cost? you get the same effect with
a $2 bmx seatpost clamp, as the seatpost just happens to have the
'zact same OD as a steerer tube. yep, locks onto the steerer, you
can remove the stem without affecting the bearing preload.

djb

ok right, I think I got it. So no need to readjust the headset because the Problem Solver holds the fork in place--so just to be clear, when you take off the topcap and put it back on, do you just tighten the top cap to a modest amount, and do you still have to check for play (or does the Prob Solv hold tight enough so that the tension on the upper and lower headset bits stay at the proper tightness?

thanks for the closer photo, its clear now where it goes.

Doug64

The cap is only on there to keep the spacers on the steerer tube. I just tighten it enough that it will not come loose in transit. It keeps your spacers in a safe spot. Cost is $10 USD: https://www.universalcycles.com/sear...roblem+solvers

djb

thanks Doug, yup, $10 and so $15 U.S shipped to the States, so $20 Can. and I would have to pick it up in Vermont sometime.
I'll ask at some bike shops if anyone has one, and / or look into a cheap bmx seat clamp or whatever.
Just for fun I'll try a hose clamp as I suspect I have one large enough in my tool box somewhere, just to see if it would work better than the cardboard tube I still have, or I can improvise another one with some plastic or something.

The Problem Solver one is certainly more elegant, though to be honest if its just for being boxed, I don't really care what it is, as long as it does the job. I will certainly use those foam bits, seems like a good idea. When I went to CR with the old mtn bike, I didnt bother, thats one thing with an old bike, I was more relaxed about that sort of thing. With the Troll, I will do a much better job and the ziptied foamies seem to be a great idea.

thanks again all for the details and ideas.

Doug64

The nice thing about the problem solver or seat post clamp is that it takes the place of one of your spacers, and stays on the bike as a spacer.
The "foamies" are just pipe insulation.

djb

Yes I can see how it staying on the fork would be handy. Re pipe insulation, tonight in the garage I changed the rather ratty looking housings and cable on my old MTB bike commuters rear derailleur, and was looking at the pipe insulation on some of the hot water pipes running through the garage to the house rads.... There is a big chain hardware store nearby where it's available, cheap insurance for the tubes, but as you especially know, stuff happens....

fietsbob

the packing that is wrapped around brand new bikes is just so much garbage stream , thrown away,
so going to the Bike Shop they will fill a bike box full of the stuff for free.. .. with the fork spreader piece, and so on

take the RD off to not have it bend the dropout ..

Philly Tandem

I have the Problem Solver headset "lock" on all my S&S bikes with 1-1/8" steerers (can't get one for my 1-1/4" Santana tandem, unfortunately). Great addition when packing up and nice to not have to readjust the headset each time. Interesting about the BMX seatpost clamp. But is that tapered at all? The Problem Solver piece is machined square and exactly takes the place of a 10mm spacer. They come in silver and black, I believe.

I've used pipe insulation on many occasions. Works great (although it's a bit bulky) and is cheap, usually $1 or so for a long piece.

I undo my rear derailleur and zip-tie to the frame. You can also make your own dropout spacers pretty easily with a small piece of PVC pipe and your quick-release skewer. Cut the PVC to fit between your dropouts, remove the QR from your wheel, and thread the QR through the PVC and then clamp it into the frame. Super cheap, very light, and you can even throw it in the bottom of your panniers for a return trip if you are disposing of the box, etc., at arrival.

djb

ya, I still have a fork protector spacer thingee that I got ages ago. I also have a plastic doohickey that was in a delivered bike to the store I last got a bike box from, and this doohickey fits over the rd and creates a solid buffer between the frame and the derailleur. I havent taken off a derailleur yet, but set it to the inner most position and use that plastic protector thing. I keep all this stuff in a plastic bag to keep it all together to find easier.

thanks again for ideas.

Tourist in MSN

Would one of these fit on the 1.25?
XLC Alloy Seatpost Clamp w/ Bolt, 31.8mm, Black