Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!
#8226
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I saw them as the headliner at an all day festival type of event in Wichita Falls in the 1985-86 timeline. They really put on a good show. They played a song, something or other "Blues" and Jimmy was killing it. The stage faced east. The sun was setting, it was getting dark and the wind was beginning to howl. Great atmosphere/backdrop for that song.
I'm kind of partial to this version of Powerful Stuff. That mullet Kim is wearing might be the worst of all time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CaEHFxlmf-k
I'm kind of partial to this version of Powerful Stuff. That mullet Kim is wearing might be the worst of all time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CaEHFxlmf-k
#8229
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My loaner/beater IM is a "classic" with the same color saddle/bar tape. Not near as snazzy as yours. I'll snap a pic tomorrow at the office.
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Here you go. Not as cool as RT's, but it does have snazzy chainrings. We seem to be getting lots of questions about gearing. I have bikes with with the 600 and the 105 drivetrains. I also have all of the props, etc. to give a how to on all of the gear changing possibilities. Let me get some stuff together. I will go over the options, we can discuss it and we can get people set up for the season.
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#8231
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Seypat, you're Classic looks pretty original except for Saddle, Stem, Chainrings, and Pedals. Oh and consumables.
When you Loan it out they're gonna be surprised at the Ride. Those '86 Ironman made everyone want one.
When you Loan it out they're gonna be surprised at the Ride. Those '86 Ironman made everyone want one.
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#8233
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Here you go. Not as cool as RT's, but it does have snazzy chainrings. We seem to be getting lots of questions about gearing. I have bikes with with the 600 and the 105 drivetrains. I also have all of the props, etc. to give a how to on all of the gear changing possibilities. Let me get some stuff together. I will go over the options, we can discuss it and we can get people set up for the season.
Here's mine on a 30 miler today.
Need black Velox plugs.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
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I've got the original chipped ones but I like the feel of the Velox and spend significant time in the drops. The current plugs in my Classic are old dry Velox from a PX-10. My fresh pairs are on my Sachs and my Turbo.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#8238
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I promised a gearing info how to, so let's get to it.
I'm going to cover the options for increasing the gearing using as much of the original components as possible. After that, someone that hot rods them up can discussing modern drivetrains.
I'm going to cover the options for increasing the gearing using as much of the original components as possible. After that, someone that hot rods them up can discussing modern drivetrains.
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You got yourself an IM. You took it for few rides. You really like it, but you need more gearing. What can you do? Changing the rear cluster is probably the cheapest option. Let's pull the wheel and see what we have.
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The wheel is off, and it is a freewheel hub marked MF-6208. The one that came on my 87 was a cassette hub marked FH-1050 like the 2nd pic. The Park tools for taking them off are FR 1.2 and FR 5G respectively. You also need a chain whip to remove the cassette.
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If it's a freewheel you get another with bigger sprockets, maybe 7 sprockets as well. Or you can find a freewheel with trashed guts and rob the sprockets like this. I got these and the trashed body for $10.
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Changing the original gearing, continued.
If the rear hub is a cassette hub, it will be a Uniglide. Maybe later on some would take both UG and HG, but not the earlier ones. Uniglide was replaced by HG and cassettes are limited. You can modify the body with a Dremel to take a HG hub or replace it with a new HG hub. Replacement is better. The new one costs about $20 and you can get a 7 Speed body. Easy to do and How to videos online.
If the rear hub is a cassette hub, it will be a Uniglide. Maybe later on some would take both UG and HG, but not the earlier ones. Uniglide was replaced by HG and cassettes are limited. You can modify the body with a Dremel to take a HG hub or replace it with a new HG hub. Replacement is better. The new one costs about $20 and you can get a 7 Speed body. Easy to do and How to videos online.
#8245
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When I am in the drops, the heel of my hand is at times at the end of the bars and I like that soft, rubber, slightly oversized plug instead of the more common plastic that leaves the bar ends rather sharp.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#8246
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Gearing how to continued.
How big of a sprocket will the 2 RDs take? Let's find out. I have a wheelset with a 28t big cog and one with a 30t big cog. First, the 600 SIS RD.
28T,
30T,
Both need some more chain, but the top jockey wheel hits the 30T with more slack. So, 28T is the biggest you can go on the back.
The same thing happens with the 105 RD. 28T works, but the jockey wheel hits the 30T. 28T is the largest that will work.
If you have the right chain length, both will work with a 28T and a triple up front. That's what I run on my 87. A 12-28 52/42/30 combo.
If you want to run >28T, get a Shimano MTB RD from the same era. Deerhead or Deore. Go to Velobase and figure out which one you need.
How big of a sprocket will the 2 RDs take? Let's find out. I have a wheelset with a 28t big cog and one with a 30t big cog. First, the 600 SIS RD.
28T,
30T,
Both need some more chain, but the top jockey wheel hits the 30T with more slack. So, 28T is the biggest you can go on the back.
The same thing happens with the 105 RD. 28T works, but the jockey wheel hits the 30T. 28T is the largest that will work.
If you have the right chain length, both will work with a 28T and a triple up front. That's what I run on my 87. A 12-28 52/42/30 combo.
If you want to run >28T, get a Shimano MTB RD from the same era. Deerhead or Deore. Go to Velobase and figure out which one you need.
Last edited by seypat; 03-21-20 at 10:20 PM.
#8247
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That has the rear gearing covered. Tomorrow I will go over the front. If you have any questions or comments, post them and we will discuss tomorrow.
#8248
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Added bonus:
If you want to know what that color combo looks like with the Conti GP Classic dark gummies, here you go.
If you want to know what that color combo looks like with the Conti GP Classic dark gummies, here you go.
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#8249
Me duelen las nalgas
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Got a pair on my '89 Ironman. It's a tight squeeze in the back between the tire and brake bridge and occasionally I'll hear some scraping if I run through a puddle or bit of mud. I'm tempted to file the brake bridge just a little to ensure clearance. They've been on dry gravel though -- well, the crushed limestone chat trails on our MUP.
Otherwise, they look good, ride well and don't cost much compared with Conti 4k and 5k tires. And they're true skinwalls, with very thin, translucent reddish-brown sidewalls.
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What's up IM Nation? It's time for another episode of "How do you that" mechanic. On yesterday's episode we discussed the fun and exciting aspects of IM gearing options. We went over the various options for the rear part of the drivetrain. Today we will be discussing the options for the front part of the drivetrain. Let's get to it. Here is our Guinea pig again.