Saddle Tilt
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Nags Head NC
Posts: 359
Bikes: Cannondale Synapse
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Saddle Tilt
Is there a level which notes the degree of tilt off level? Tilt of saddle is sometimes hard to gauge with only a eyeball impression.
#2
Let's do a Century
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 8,316
Bikes: Cervelo R3 Disc, Pinarello Prince/Campy SR; Cervelo R3/Sram Red; Trek 5900/Duraace, Lynskey GR260 Ultegra
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 651 Post(s)
Liked 879 Times
in
408 Posts
I use a long carpenter's level-also put a 1x6x12 on top of the saddle and put the level on top of it. It's easier to eyeball any tilt that way. My road bike saddles are level but my TT saddle has the slightest tilt with the nose down.
__________________
Ride your Ride!!
Ride your Ride!!
#3
Time for a change.
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: 6 miles inland from the coast of Sussex, in the South East of England
Posts: 19,913
Bikes: Dale MT2000. Bianchi FS920 Kona Explosif. Giant TCR C. Boreas Ignis. Pinarello Fp Uno.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
4 Posts
Trial and error works for me.
Get the reach right and where you normally ride on the bars. Then the saddle height and fore and aft.-----Basic fit in other words. Saddle position will set the sit bones on the wings of the saddle and then I tilt the saddle till I am only just resting the pubic area on the saddle. I can just feel it in other words. This normally means that I will be sliding forward on the saddle so raise the nose till I stop sliding forward.
I say trial and error as it is different from bike type to bike type. The two main road bikes I ride do have the saddle parallel to the ground- which surprises me as bar height in relationshio to the saddle is different. But the OCR which gives me a more upright position-Bars level with the saddle and a shorter reach to the bars- Does have a degree or 2 of uplift on the nose. The MTB has a degree of down on the nose. and the Tandem is parrellel with the ground. I don't worry about how it should be set up- My butt tells me when it is comfortable.
Get the reach right and where you normally ride on the bars. Then the saddle height and fore and aft.-----Basic fit in other words. Saddle position will set the sit bones on the wings of the saddle and then I tilt the saddle till I am only just resting the pubic area on the saddle. I can just feel it in other words. This normally means that I will be sliding forward on the saddle so raise the nose till I stop sliding forward.
I say trial and error as it is different from bike type to bike type. The two main road bikes I ride do have the saddle parallel to the ground- which surprises me as bar height in relationshio to the saddle is different. But the OCR which gives me a more upright position-Bars level with the saddle and a shorter reach to the bars- Does have a degree or 2 of uplift on the nose. The MTB has a degree of down on the nose. and the Tandem is parrellel with the ground. I don't worry about how it should be set up- My butt tells me when it is comfortable.
__________________
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Toronto (again) Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,931
Bikes: Old Bike: 1975 Raleigh Delta, New Bike: 2004 Norco Bushpilot
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
Probably a better method is to place the board on the saddle and measure from it to the ground, both at the front and the back. If the measurements are the same, then the saddle is level, if it is not, then it's tilted toward the shorter measurement.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 2,067
Bikes: 84 Pinarello Trevisio, 86 Guerciotti SLX, 96 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2010 Surly Cross Check, 88 Centurion Prestige, 73 Raleigh Sports, GT Force, Bridgestone MB4
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 278 Post(s)
Liked 71 Times
in
56 Posts
I prefer my saddle tilted back slightly. I just look at it and use my eye to gauge where it should be.
#6
Senior Member
I find that saddle tilt varies a fair amount based on the saddle. With a new saddle or new bike I always plan a long, leisurely ride with a couple of wrenches in my jersey pocket. I just take it easy and stop and adjust as often as I need to until I get the saddle angle dialed in.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Up
Posts: 4,695
Bikes: Masi, Giant TCR, Eisentraut (retired), Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo, Cannondale, 84 & 93 Stumpjumpers, Waterford, Tern D8, Bianchi, Gunner Roadie, Serotta, Serotta Duette, was gifted a Diamond Back
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 305 Post(s)
Liked 2,038 Times
in
604 Posts
There problem with that, first without the bike there, put board and level on ground. Make sure that ground or floor is level, it usually isn't. Basement floors are almost always intentionally off level, so that water spills are aimed toward floor drains. Garage floors will be the same, if there is no drain then the far wall will be higher then the door. Driveways will tilt away from buildings, and toward the street. Parking lots and streets toward storm drains, etc.
Probably a better method is to place the board on the saddle and measure from it to the ground, both at the front and the back. If the measurements are the same, then the saddle is level, if it is not, then it's tilted toward the shorter measurement.
Probably a better method is to place the board on the saddle and measure from it to the ground, both at the front and the back. If the measurements are the same, then the saddle is level, if it is not, then it's tilted toward the shorter measurement.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Toronto (again) Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,931
Bikes: Old Bike: 1975 Raleigh Delta, New Bike: 2004 Norco Bushpilot
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
That would work, as long as the bike is sitting on a level surface, a level should be good for determining tilt. Often though, surfaces we assume are level are not. It's a little like installing wallpaper, it's the fastest way to determine that in any structure, there is no such thing as a 90 degree angle.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,613
Bikes: 06 Lemond Reno, 98 GT Timberline mtn.bike
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 429 Post(s)
Liked 708 Times
in
441 Posts
I'll start with the saddle fairly level, and make sure to carry the correct size hex wrench with me for a while, so I may make adjustments as needed. I've found different saddles require different tilt to be comfortable, so it really doesn't matter where you start, it's more important to end up with the tilt where it is most comfortable.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Montgomery County, Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,489
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
2 Posts
Consider an inexpensive laser level mounted on a level tripod. My kids got me one as a gift eight years ago and now everything in the house is level, including bike seats (actually I've got the nose of the Sella Italia SLK's up 2 degrees and the rest are level).
__________________
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Nags Head NC
Posts: 359
Bikes: Cannondale Synapse
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks!
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Rural Missouri - mostly central and southeastern
Posts: 3,016
Bikes: 2003 LeMond -various other junk bikes
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 80 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 46 Times
in
37 Posts
Sometimes a saddle will "give" a little - so I often start with the front of the saddle tilted down in front, and then when I sit on the saddle it "gives" so much that it IS actually level.
Often its the taper of saddle and the space between your legs that determines the saddle's fit - more so than the last degree of tilt...... A saddle's fore/aft position affects whether a tilt will increase comfort as well.
Often its the taper of saddle and the space between your legs that determines the saddle's fit - more so than the last degree of tilt...... A saddle's fore/aft position affects whether a tilt will increase comfort as well.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Northern Nevada
Posts: 3,811
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
does the measured degree of tilt matter? I know the tilt matters (FWIW, i run my B-17s very slightly nose-up), but using a level to determine what it is doesn't seem to offer much. You can't measure accurately, other than "about half a bubble up," or reproduce it with precision, and it may change if you raise or lower the saddle. It's either comfortable or it's not.
One method that I've found useful, once I have the height set, is to measure from the nose of the saddle to the top tube. that changes if you move the seatpost, too, but until you do, it's quick and easy to R&R the saddle and get it back where you want it.
One method that I've found useful, once I have the height set, is to measure from the nose of the saddle to the top tube. that changes if you move the seatpost, too, but until you do, it's quick and easy to R&R the saddle and get it back where you want it.
#14
just keep riding
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 173 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times
in
22 Posts
I start with what looks like level to my eye and adjust from there by trial and error to find whatever feels right.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Montgomery County, Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,489
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
2 Posts
I mark a chalk dot on the read side of the saddle. I then set the laser up for a stright line through the length of the saddle from the side. I then mark another level line starting at the same chalk dot and measure the difference with a protractor. It's basically the same thing you get with a Retul fitting, but their computer does the calculation.
__________________
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
#16
gone ride'n
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 4,050
Bikes: Simoncini, Gary Fisher, Specialized Tarmac
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
As with others I do a bit of trial and error. I am lucky to have a gold standard with the bike I have been riding for years. Anyway I will take the new saddle (adjust the height and for/aft position first) and then take a long straight edge (like a board) which extends from the saddle over the bars. I set the tilt such that the height of the bar is the same as my gold standard bike - if all other adjustments are the same that sets the saddle angle the same within my ability to measure it. Then I get on it, if there is any pressure from the nose of the saddle I tilt that down until it is gone, if there is any tendency to slide forward when my hands are on the hoods or in the drops I tilt the nose up. I can usually feel just where my sit bones need to be. Then I ride about 40 miles with my wrenches in the back pocket. Fine adjustments are made along the way based on my feel. I will also make any up/down adjustments based on what my knees are telling me and if I tend to rock in the saddle at high cadence. At the end I will recheck the fore/aft position by using a plum-bob on the knee at mid-pedal, if it's OK I'm done, if not I will iterate again. I usually have it dialed in after the first ride.
For me - the fit one gets in the shop is just a starting point, the real fit occurs on the road after many miles.
For me - the fit one gets in the shop is just a starting point, the real fit occurs on the road after many miles.
#17
Senior Member
I "leveled" the seat on my commuter, only to find that I would slide forward on it. After my first commute my arms were sore from holding myself back. And of course the next time I rode in to work I'd realized immediately that I never adjusted it but didn't have the tool with me. And a third time...
I think I just need to tilt it back so the nose is slightly up as there is a dip in the middle. Then maybe it''ll be comfortable. If all else fails I could try a road saddle, since I've been riding a roadie for years.
I think I just need to tilt it back so the nose is slightly up as there is a dip in the middle. Then maybe it''ll be comfortable. If all else fails I could try a road saddle, since I've been riding a roadie for years.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,900
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1869 Post(s)
Liked 666 Times
in
508 Posts
Sometimes a saddle will "give" a little - so I often start with the front of the saddle tilted down in front, and then when I sit on the saddle it "gives" so much that it IS actually level.
Often its the taper of saddle and the space between your legs that determines the saddle's fit - more so than the last degree of tilt...... A saddle's fore/aft position affects whether a tilt will increase comfort as well.
Often its the taper of saddle and the space between your legs that determines the saddle's fit - more so than the last degree of tilt...... A saddle's fore/aft position affects whether a tilt will increase comfort as well.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Edge of the Texas Hill Country
Posts: 146
Bikes: Torker Cargo-T, 1972 Raleigh
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
My cheap Avenir saddle specifically mentions that you should start with the saddle leveled with a 9 inch carpenters level. I tend to start nose down by just a smidge as nose up to ANY degree is extremely uncomfortable (meaning I can't ride 25 feet, with the saddle nose up).
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston TX area
Posts: 816
Bikes: Trek 1420 triple, Mercier Corvus, Globe 1 700, Surly Disc Trucker, GT Avalanche, GT Grade, GT Helion, Mercier Corvus, Motobacane Boris X7 Fat Bikes,
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
While riding yesterday my saddle came loose. So as an ex-spear-ment ( don't make fun of my peach imspediment)
I moved the seat forward and tilted the front up from level.
Less strain on hands and butt sits more secure on saddle
I moved the seat forward and tilted the front up from level.
Less strain on hands and butt sits more secure on saddle
#21
Let's do a Century
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 8,316
Bikes: Cervelo R3 Disc, Pinarello Prince/Campy SR; Cervelo R3/Sram Red; Trek 5900/Duraace, Lynskey GR260 Ultegra
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 651 Post(s)
Liked 879 Times
in
408 Posts
There problem with that, first without the bike there, put board and level on ground. Make sure that ground or floor is level, it usually isn't. Basement floors are almost always intentionally off level, so that water spills are aimed toward floor drains. Garage floors will be the same, if there is no drain then the far wall will be higher then the door. Driveways will tilt away from buildings, and toward the street. Parking lots and streets toward storm drains, etc.
Probably a better method is to place the board on the saddle and measure from it to the ground, both at the front and the back. If the measurements are the same, then the saddle is level, if it is not, then it's tilted toward the shorter measurement.
Probably a better method is to place the board on the saddle and measure from it to the ground, both at the front and the back. If the measurements are the same, then the saddle is level, if it is not, then it's tilted toward the shorter measurement.
__________________
Ride your Ride!!
Ride your Ride!!
#22
don't try this at home.
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N. KY
Posts: 5,974
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 987 Post(s)
Liked 528 Times
in
363 Posts
Bring the bike in the house and line up the saddle by sighting to a windowsill or fireplace mantle.
Once I get it set the way I like, using a razor blade, I scribe a thin mark on the seatpost and it's adjustable top section. I used to use a magic marker, but that rubs off, and isn't accurate anyway. If I'm still experimenting, I cut a wedge of masking tape and use the pointed end as a temporary marker on the seatpost.
Road Fan -- a digital level? That sounds like a good tool to have.
Once I get it set the way I like, using a razor blade, I scribe a thin mark on the seatpost and it's adjustable top section. I used to use a magic marker, but that rubs off, and isn't accurate anyway. If I'm still experimenting, I cut a wedge of masking tape and use the pointed end as a temporary marker on the seatpost.
Road Fan -- a digital level? That sounds like a good tool to have.
Last edited by rm -rf; 04-27-10 at 11:52 AM.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,900
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1869 Post(s)
Liked 666 Times
in
508 Posts
Absolutely! Prices for small (8" max) ones vary from maybe $12 on sale at Harbor Freight to way more with a Starrett or something label on it. I like to be able to reproduce the starting point and the results of setting the saddle. It lets me get dialed back in faster after I dink around - er, experiment - with the sizing more than I should.
#24
Dharma Dog
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 2,073
Bikes: Rodriguez Shiftless street fixie with S&S couplers, Kuwahara tandem, Trek carbon, Dolan track
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I think you have to decide what you mean by "level saddle." I find a saddle is most comfortable when it is dead level. But what is meant by level?
Does it mean that the saddle nose and the saddle back are at the same height?
Or does the saddle have a pronounced flat part that you want to make level, but the nose and back are then at different heights?
Or does the saddle have a "spoiler lip" that is meant to be higher than the front (like the old Concor saddles)?
Or do you level by "feel," making micro adjustments until you stop sliding forward or backward in the saddle on a level ride?
Or do you look at the bike in its entirety, and decide on an aesthetic basis when the saddle appears to be "right?"
Or do you have one of those seatposts that has a notched adjustment, so that the adjustment you want is in-between two notches?
Yes, getting the saddle "level" presents a greater difficulty than getting the handlebars "straight."
L.
Does it mean that the saddle nose and the saddle back are at the same height?
Or does the saddle have a pronounced flat part that you want to make level, but the nose and back are then at different heights?
Or does the saddle have a "spoiler lip" that is meant to be higher than the front (like the old Concor saddles)?
Or do you level by "feel," making micro adjustments until you stop sliding forward or backward in the saddle on a level ride?
Or do you look at the bike in its entirety, and decide on an aesthetic basis when the saddle appears to be "right?"
Or do you have one of those seatposts that has a notched adjustment, so that the adjustment you want is in-between two notches?
Yes, getting the saddle "level" presents a greater difficulty than getting the handlebars "straight."
L.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Waldorf Md.
Posts: 2,045
Bikes: Cannondale Six Carbon 5 and Gary Fisher Wahoo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Just happened to me last weekend. I was installing my old kitchen cabinets in the garage and I "leveled" then with a level as I hung them. Well when I finished and looked they were tilted pretty bad. Turns out the ceiling was not level. I then measured off the ceiling and they are "level" to that so they look good.
Sorry for going OT ..back to you regularly scheduled thread.
Sorry for going OT ..back to you regularly scheduled thread.