Murrays

Ok, let's hear it, what wheels are best for all around club riding (no racing)? What do you ride? Would you buy them again? What brands would you avoid?

Or should I just have a great shop build me some wheels from scratch?

Me: I'm 5'5", 130 lbs and I like to spin. The roads around Madison are hilly, but not mountainous. I'll be putting them on a new Seven Axiom SG.

I'd like to keep the cost below $1k, but could be convinced to go over.

-murray

GuitarWizard

Get a 30mm rim built up with some DT Swiss 240s hubs and bladed spokes for stiffness. Your local shop should be able to do this....

stapfam

Two sets I have used- Ultegra 6600 and they have proved a good wheel- The others are a hand built bomb proof set. 105 hubs-36 DT spokes and Mavic CXP33 rims.

Murrays

**Bump**

There HAS to be more opinions on wheels than this.

-murray

Sirrobinofcoxly

Get a set of Ksyrium ES wheels. You can't go wrong, and they will last forever. You can get a nice deal on PBK.

I'm getting a set of Dura-Ace 7850-C24-CL's whenever they come to Canada (I hear April).

michaelmc

Just get some DT Swiss RR1450s. Handbuilt in Switzerland from DT Swiss RR1.1 rims, 240s hubs, and Aerolite spokes. $855 MSRP.

azdroptop

You can't go wrong with handbuilts for many reasons. For 1K or less you have a huge amount of options there.

waterrockets 

For that dough, I'd go with White Industries hubs, Sapim CX-Ray spokes, and either 30mm Niobiums or Velocity Aeroheads. Probably 20h front, 24h rear, at your weight. 30mm rim would be stronger...

Radial front, 3x drive side, radial non-drive side with a 32h rear hub and a 24h rear rim (skip every 2nd spoke hole on the NDS -- this will be laced like a Fulcrum 0).

zonatandem

My choice: Topolino; American built; 24 front, 30 rear (18 driveside/12 non-driveside) c/f spokes, sub-1400 grams. Over 3,000 miles on them and no issues. Great wheels.

Mr.Mavic

Only problem with carbon spokes is they suck to replace, and I think you also have to send them back to topolino if you happen to break one.

I would say if you want something durable, king hubs on dt rr1.1 rims.

kster

I had similar requirements and went with a set of Fulcrum Racing 1s. I love these wheels so much that I constantly scan craigslist for a second set.

michaelmc

FYI (and I'm sure the Racing 1s are great):

Fulcrum Racing 1s: 16f/21r spokes, 1570 g, $1100 MSRP
DT Swiss RR1450s: 28f/28r spokes, 1450 g, $855 MSRP, has some of the best hubs in the world (lighter and nearly as bombproof as Chris Kings), and should anything break (not that it will), it can be fixed by your local shop with commonly in-stock DT Swiss parts.

RC2

I just had some built with DT 240S, DT revolutions, and Velocity aeroheads (OC back). Chose 28f/32b, and kept the front 2x (vs. radial, my preference as it lessons spoke tension, makes a bit softer ride) and back 3x for strength. Any of the usual suspects for wheels (areohead/deep V/fusion, open pro, DT1.1 are similar in weight and in my experience quality). You can pay a lot for cool hubs (DT/Hugi, Chris King, Phil Wood) that will be bling, last a long time, but notice no real difference in ride. Spokes are a good place to spend a little more in my opinion (where butted designs can actually ride better and last longer while saving weight). I like finding a local wheelbuilder whith a good reputation (in case there are any problems later). There, my $.02.

Murrays

Great info all! You've convinced me, hand built is the way to go. The shop I'm getting my bike from has built wheels for pro teams and also invented the Cane Creek Crono wheel years ago. I don't think I'll do better than them!

What about bladed spokes? The DT Aerolite spokes, for example, get pretty pricey, is it worth it?

-murray

michaelmc

I refer you to my post above (that is, the 1450s come with Aerolites for a reasonable cost). I don't think they'll make you faster, but they're wicked strong.