Finish Line Speed Clean work good?
#1
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Finish Line Speed Clean work good?
1. Will it damage the paint or tires if gets onto them?
2. Just spray and then relube everything?
Just wanna clean the grunge off the Ultegra derailers (return springs, too) and chain and jockey wheel and cassette/cranks.
Followed by a good Boeshielding.
2. Just spray and then relube everything?
Just wanna clean the grunge off the Ultegra derailers (return springs, too) and chain and jockey wheel and cassette/cranks.
Followed by a good Boeshielding.
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it can dull paint. i usually keep on bare metal. i use pedros orange peelz more often. it is just d limonene. speed clean is basically carb or brake cleaner
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It's stupid expensive. Get some non-chlorinated brake cleaner from your local big box/automotive store for like $2.50 versus $10 at the LBS for the Speed Degreaser.
It is, however, a quality product. Work in a well-ventilated area or outside. It won't strip most paint jobs, but I did have it damage the decals on a handlebar (FSA handlebar logo near the clamp area) when using it once.
It is, however, a quality product. Work in a well-ventilated area or outside. It won't strip most paint jobs, but I did have it damage the decals on a handlebar (FSA handlebar logo near the clamp area) when using it once.
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IMO it's extreme overkill. It's a very aggressive and volatile solvent (don't know about flammability) and spraying it only ensures that you'll have the privilege of breathing more of it than necessary. As noted it can also be hard on paint or plastics.
Save your money and go to the hardware store and buy some mineral spirits, aka OMS, or if you want something stronger buy napatha, Do not buy so-called Green mineral spirits, which isn't mineral spirits at all. Use the solvent with a rag, or in an old can and dunk and swish the parts, whichever works best for any specific application.
When you finish don't dump the solvent, store it in a closed jar or can, and the dirt will settle so you can pour off clean solvent starting about a week later.
Save your money and go to the hardware store and buy some mineral spirits, aka OMS, or if you want something stronger buy napatha, Do not buy so-called Green mineral spirits, which isn't mineral spirits at all. Use the solvent with a rag, or in an old can and dunk and swish the parts, whichever works best for any specific application.
When you finish don't dump the solvent, store it in a closed jar or can, and the dirt will settle so you can pour off clean solvent starting about a week later.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
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A mechanic at my LBS told me that use of spray-on degreasers on the cassette will eventually get into the rear bearings and damage them. It seems to me that using a degreaser and brush should do the same thing but he says no. (I don't trust myself to remove the cassette and clean it off the bike.)
Any learned opinions?
Any learned opinions?
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areas to watch out for are where the freehub meets the hub body and where the axle exits out. i just spray the rag and floss the cassette with the rag.
#7
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Speed degreaser works great, but is expensive, and you can go through a whole can surprisingly quick. Best use is blowing out shifters; worst use is general cleaning.
Rubbing alcohol and a rag, toothbrush for derailleur and recessed areas on the crank. For the chain, you can use a rag to clean the surface, or take it off to dip it in mineral spirits or kerosene. On the bike, you could also clean it with WD40, just make sure you lube it after.
Rubbing alcohol and a rag, toothbrush for derailleur and recessed areas on the crank. For the chain, you can use a rag to clean the surface, or take it off to dip it in mineral spirits or kerosene. On the bike, you could also clean it with WD40, just make sure you lube it after.