Brakes lever suddenly sticking - Sora ST3500
09-19-14, 06:23 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Brakes lever suddenly sticking - Sora ST3500
Edit: I've read to detach the cable from the brake itself and squeeze each (brake lever then brakes) to see what half the issue is on. I'll go do that and see what's up.
My searching skills must be sub-par because I looked for this and could not find anything that made sense to me. Probably because hey... I'm not that bright.
After a ride in the rain I did a quick rinse to get grit off, wiped everything down and lubed chain, etc. I did no such thing to the brake handle grouping, whatever the official name for that is (Dual Control Lever?). Two days later I hop on the bike and notice that when I apply the front brake it "sticks" meaning it grabs then depresses, grabs a bit more then depresses, etc.
Before I go lubing the brakes, WD-40'ing every knook and cranny I can I figured I'd make an attempt to do things right.
I have a Raleigh Ravenio 2.0 (2014). It has the Sora ST 3500 I THINK, but it also kind of looks like the ST 3503 if that even matters (I think it won't).
I figure I'm going to have to either clean out the Control Lever (and then apply some white grease) or clean the rotational point on the brakes, or both. I'm trying to more on my own and hope this doesn't need me to take it to the LBS. However if it does they treat me right and I'll do that.
Below looks like what I have. Thank you all in advance and sorry for my weak knowledge.
My searching skills must be sub-par because I looked for this and could not find anything that made sense to me. Probably because hey... I'm not that bright.
After a ride in the rain I did a quick rinse to get grit off, wiped everything down and lubed chain, etc. I did no such thing to the brake handle grouping, whatever the official name for that is (Dual Control Lever?). Two days later I hop on the bike and notice that when I apply the front brake it "sticks" meaning it grabs then depresses, grabs a bit more then depresses, etc.
Before I go lubing the brakes, WD-40'ing every knook and cranny I can I figured I'd make an attempt to do things right.
I have a Raleigh Ravenio 2.0 (2014). It has the Sora ST 3500 I THINK, but it also kind of looks like the ST 3503 if that even matters (I think it won't).
I figure I'm going to have to either clean out the Control Lever (and then apply some white grease) or clean the rotational point on the brakes, or both. I'm trying to more on my own and hope this doesn't need me to take it to the LBS. However if it does they treat me right and I'll do that.
Below looks like what I have. Thank you all in advance and sorry for my weak knowledge.
Last edited by WonderMonkey; 09-19-14 at 07:13 PM.
09-19-14, 08:23 PM
#2
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You started by saying the right way to figure out what's going on. separate the caliper's action from the cables free sliding. then do the same for the cables and levers movements. If one, or more, of these three aspects are sticking it should be easy to see.
So detach the cable from the caliper and then squeeze the caliper with your hands. Watch for equally quick release when you let go of the arms/pads. But also wiggle the two arms fore and aft to check for any looseness on their pivots. I see the pivots getting sticky often with time and/or rain. Applying a thin (TriFlow) lube to the pivots and working in often will help. If not then the caliper can be disassembled and reassembled after cleaning and lubing.
The cable can be pushed and pulled through the casing. It should move freely enough so it's leaded end in the lever moves in and out of the cable head seat. If not then fully removing the cable and looking for grime, corrosion, fraying, kinks is next. Cables are so inexpensive that replacing it is almost always better then trying to steel wooling off the roughness. Don't forget to lube the cable on reinstall. Also check the casing for smooth routing and well cut and squared off ends. Some end fittings want casing caps, I like to use 5mm SIS casing end caps instead of the flimsy brake ones.
The lever can be pulled and released with the cable partially out of the head seat. This should tell you if the lever's pivot action is being hindered by something (like a miss placed rubber hood).
Hope this helps. Andy.
So detach the cable from the caliper and then squeeze the caliper with your hands. Watch for equally quick release when you let go of the arms/pads. But also wiggle the two arms fore and aft to check for any looseness on their pivots. I see the pivots getting sticky often with time and/or rain. Applying a thin (TriFlow) lube to the pivots and working in often will help. If not then the caliper can be disassembled and reassembled after cleaning and lubing.
The cable can be pushed and pulled through the casing. It should move freely enough so it's leaded end in the lever moves in and out of the cable head seat. If not then fully removing the cable and looking for grime, corrosion, fraying, kinks is next. Cables are so inexpensive that replacing it is almost always better then trying to steel wooling off the roughness. Don't forget to lube the cable on reinstall. Also check the casing for smooth routing and well cut and squared off ends. Some end fittings want casing caps, I like to use 5mm SIS casing end caps instead of the flimsy brake ones.
The lever can be pulled and released with the cable partially out of the head seat. This should tell you if the lever's pivot action is being hindered by something (like a miss placed rubber hood).
Hope this helps. Andy.
09-19-14, 09:49 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You started by saying the right way to figure out what's going on. separate the caliper's action from the cables free sliding. then do the same for the cables and levers movements. If one, or more, of these three aspects are sticking it should be easy to see.
So detach the cable from the caliper and then squeeze the caliper with your hands. Watch for equally quick release when you let go of the arms/pads. But also wiggle the two arms fore and aft to check for any looseness on their pivots. I see the pivots getting sticky often with time and/or rain. Applying a thin (TriFlow) lube to the pivots and working in often will help. If not then the caliper can be disassembled and reassembled after cleaning and lubing.
The cable can be pushed and pulled through the casing. It should move freely enough so it's leaded end in the lever moves in and out of the cable head seat. If not then fully removing the cable and looking for grime, corrosion, fraying, kinks is next. Cables are so inexpensive that replacing it is almost always better then trying to steel wooling off the roughness. Don't forget to lube the cable on reinstall. Also check the casing for smooth routing and well cut and squared off ends. Some end fittings want casing caps, I like to use 5mm SIS casing end caps instead of the flimsy brake ones.
The lever can be pulled and released with the cable partially out of the head seat. This should tell you if the lever's pivot action is being hindered by something (like a miss placed rubber hood).
Hope this helps. Andy.
So detach the cable from the caliper and then squeeze the caliper with your hands. Watch for equally quick release when you let go of the arms/pads. But also wiggle the two arms fore and aft to check for any looseness on their pivots. I see the pivots getting sticky often with time and/or rain. Applying a thin (TriFlow) lube to the pivots and working in often will help. If not then the caliper can be disassembled and reassembled after cleaning and lubing.
The cable can be pushed and pulled through the casing. It should move freely enough so it's leaded end in the lever moves in and out of the cable head seat. If not then fully removing the cable and looking for grime, corrosion, fraying, kinks is next. Cables are so inexpensive that replacing it is almost always better then trying to steel wooling off the roughness. Don't forget to lube the cable on reinstall. Also check the casing for smooth routing and well cut and squared off ends. Some end fittings want casing caps, I like to use 5mm SIS casing end caps instead of the flimsy brake ones.
The lever can be pulled and released with the cable partially out of the head seat. This should tell you if the lever's pivot action is being hindered by something (like a miss placed rubber hood).
Hope this helps. Andy.
09-21-14, 05:20 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I stepped into this and I had two problems. First the brake rotation points were sticky so I cleaned them out and added a bit of slippery and they are feeling good. Took care of the other brake while I was at it just for fun. Also the brake lever isn't as smooth as it should be but I'm going to hold off on tearing that down for a few days.
The majority of the issue was the sticky brakes (caliper) themselves. The issue in the brake lever component feels minor but I know that will just get worse so I'll deal with it soon. First I want to make sure my backup bike is operational before I go putting myself in a spot where I have something tore apart and I mess it up. Fear on my part.
Thanks for all the help!
The majority of the issue was the sticky brakes (caliper) themselves. The issue in the brake lever component feels minor but I know that will just get worse so I'll deal with it soon. First I want to make sure my backup bike is operational before I go putting myself in a spot where I have something tore apart and I mess it up. Fear on my part.
Thanks for all the help!
09-21-14, 10:47 PM
#5
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Very good thinking and getting your back up all set. Andy.
09-22-14, 05:37 AM
#6
Mechanic/Tourist
It's very rare that a lever would have a problem calling for disassembly, and you don't want to be disassembling a brifter anyway. Some spray lubrication should be sufficient.
04-22-15, 07:44 PM
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IIRC these levers have a brake cable end capture device that is a cylinder with a cable hole running through it. This cylinder fits in to a fork or sorts, each end has a bushing that snaps into it's fork end. If this cylinder is not fully snapped into the two fork ends the it can contact the top of the lever body and cause the lever to hang up. Andy.
