Jordanmilo

A few months ago I bought my first road bike in over 30 years, a 1987 Pinarello Tre Cime. The frame is a little too big for me so last week a bought a Paco Columbus TSX frame.



I had hoped to be able to take all the components off of the Pinarello and put them on the new frame, but the Pinarello has 126mm rear spacing; the Paco, 130mm.



When I bought the Pinarello I noticed a clicking when braking which turned out to be the seam in the rear rim not quite lining up; I sanded it flat, but I’m sure that I’m going to want to replace the rear wheel before the rim breaks.



So, options for the new frame: My derailleur is a Shimano 600 tri-color, which I understand is indexable—but the original levers are gone, replaced with SunTours, which I hate. But in the short term, can I spacer the original axle to 130mm and ride? If I find original indexable Shimano 600 downtube levers, can I use those?



But ultimately I’m going to need a new rear wheel. What are my options at 130mm?

Cyclist0108

I have a 1987 Bianchi that had 126mm hubs. I decided to get the frame "cold set" by a mechanic who knew what he was doing. There are DIY instructions on the internet, but I think it was comparatively inexpensive for the peace of mind knowing that it was done correctly.

Edit: Sorry, I read it backward.

the sci guy 

I also just got a late 80s Cilo that’s 126 with a 6 speed Shimano 600 all friction. I’d like to update it all to modern 105 which is 130. So I’ll be watching this thread for info for myself as well!

KCT1986

Rear hub is easily converted, simply add 2mm spacers to each side to get to 130mm if you don't want to redish the rim. If you have 3mm or more of axle outside of the locknuts it should be fine.

You may want to confirm the current hub spacing and the new frame since there could be some minor variances. A couple of mm either way is usually not an issue. Most frames will easily handle a little spreading or closing.

A slight misalignment at the rim joint in an alloy rim is common. If the rim is otherwise undamaged, it should not be a problem.

Regarding shifter, yes, any Shimano or Shimano compatible shifter will index with that RD. Just need match the number of cogs on your freewheel or cassette to the shifter speed. Only exception is Dura Ace shifters in 6,7 or 8 speed, which are different.

Most common modern road wheels are 130mm. You didn't mention what your current wheels are, freewheel or freehub. Or what speed you currently have. This info will help people here make suggestion or pinpoint issues.

bark_eater 

Might not be applicable to your plans, but if you replace you axle with one 4mm longer and put all of the spacers on the non drive side you can redish the wheel to have less offset and it will be stronger.

Cyclist0108

I put 11 speed Crampy Athena on mine after it was cold-set, with a lot of advice and help from folks in this forum (once they got over what I wanted to do to my 1987 Bianchi). This is the nice thing about Steel. It is forgiving. The thread is here somewhere...

the sci guy 

I probably won't cold set to start - I'll just spread it the 2mm on each side and "force" the 130 hub in. Assuming the bike ends up being a nice ride (still new to me, just finished restoring it with all the original parts and haven't actually taken it for a ride yet), I plan to put 105 front/rear mech and brifters, on some 11sp compatible set of wheels. but we'll see!

Cyclist0108

I found the thread, but I am afraid my photos are all dead links. I have a link to another thread where you get dragged into all the decision vacillation.

storckm

I seem to remember someone--Sheldon Brown possibly--writing that the hub changes by a few mm were designed to let the slightly wider hub work in a slightly narrower frame. I don't know if this applies to carbon or aluminum, but I've just spread a steel frame slightly to put the new hub in. I picked up a 140mm wheel cheap and use it in a 135mm steel frame.

icemilkcoffee 

There are dozens of 130mm wheels and wheelsets for sale on Craigslist at any given time. Your options are endless. Just keep checking Craigslist.

My advice is , just forget about shimming the 126mm hub and buy a wheel with 130mm hub and be done with it.

klasse

+1. Ultegra, Dura Ace, Campy 8sp rear hubs, all very nice!

Jordanmilo

There's a 6 speed Shimano freewheel on the current wheel. A lot of the teeth on the freewheel are pretty chewed up, and shifting is pretty slugging to those worn sprockets. I wonder if I can go to a 7 speed Shimano (or compatible) freewheel, and indexed downtube shifters.

Thanks for the note on the rim misalignment; I'll try to stop worrying about it (and refocus on the slipping Cinelli bars and stem, even though I think I've solved that).

Jordanmilo

Ah, I hadn't thought of Craigslist. I've been checking eBay, and various online shops.

bark_eater 

That should be doable if you use a longer axle and add the 4 mm of extra spacers on the drive side and redish. That's theory so, I would confirm the actual increase of cog width between the 6 and 7 speed freewheels and how much clearence the 6 speed free wheel has from the frames dropout.
I've only done these kind of respaceings with 7 speed cassette hubs so I may well be missing some of the finer points.

Mr. 66

Not resetting the frame for the wider wheel puts an unnatural tork on your axel which could lead to uneven wear or failure. Perhaps sooner than later.

dddd

Consider that using a suitably-spaced freehub will greatly reduce flexural stresses at the drive-side dropout, which is a most common failure point on steel frames.

Bent freewheel-hub axles are bad, but broken drive-side dropouts are very bad. Heavier riders and riders who take on dirt trails, take note.

This sounds like a very good time to update the cassette, chain and shift levers.

Inspect any used rear wheel prospective purchases very carefully for rim cracks and other defects. There are good deals to be had on used wheels if you live in a bike-centric region, especially new "take-off" wheelsets.

Classtime 

I believe you can put your wheels in the new frame without problems. I had my 81 Medici professionally reset to 130 for modern wheels when it was my only bike. I now ride it with 126 and haven’t had any failures. It is a bit of a hassle adjusting the quick release but how often do we do that. In my experience, worn cogs don’t shift sluggishly—but the chain will skip over the worn cogs during hard efforts. Shimano 7 speed down tube shifters are pretty awesome.
Put on a new chain, see how your cogs work out, while you look for a modern wheelset, and get a cassette and shifters that work together—anything from 7-10 speeds. 7 speed will need a spacer.

Jordanmilo

Thanks for the info, everyone.

First things first: The frame is on its way from Ireland, so when it arrives the first thing I'll do is check to see how the current wheel fits; that is, see if I have enough axle to put 4mm of spacers, put the wheel in, and see how she sits. I suppose I'll have to do some studying on redishing wheels.

Between now and springtime I can decide what if anything I want to change.

I guess if I had my druthers, I'd keep the current wheel, replace the current 6 speed freewheel with another just like it (I like the 15-21 gearing; I'm in central Illinois and there are no real hills, and I'm not exactly Eddy Merckx, so a 90-inch top gear is just fine), and find a pair of Shimano indexed downtube shifters--I guess I'm looking for Shimano SL-6400. I think that fits my "path-of-least-resistance" mindset, and will clear up the fumbling gear changes the Pinarello now suffers from.

natterberry 

Hey Jordan,

I saw your post on the Facebook Area Cycling Group, I just don’t comment over there.

Let me know if you need to borrow any tools. I have the most of the common freewheel removal tools, truing stand, dish tool, etc.

We’ve never had the most active Craigslist. Facebook marketplace seems better in this area.

If you don’t mind new/have a bit to spend, Velomine** has some Shimano 105/Velocity A23 wheelsets for a reasonable price.

-Nic


**edited “belonging” to Velomine.

KCT1986

When adding the 4mm, if you add it equally on each side no redishing is needed to center the rim. Most hubs for 6 speed freewheels are not highly dished, so trying to strengthen the wheel is probably not needed, especially if you don't intend to do anything extreme with the bike or are not too heavy. Unless the wheel currently is out of true, spoke adjustment won't be needed. Depending on the current setup of spacers and locknut with, you may be able to swap parts between sides and make up the differences as needed.

Generally axles have 5-6mm outside the locknuts, so adding 2mm to each side should not causes any problems. 3mm on each side is plenty, especially on steel dropouts.

With the addition of 2mm on the drive side, a 7 speed freewheel should fit.

The shifter speed needs to match the # of cogs. Newer cogs have profiled teeth and engineered shift points that are much improved.

Jordanmilo

That is wicked nice of you! I will let you know. Cheers!