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Centre-pull hangers are all too short, so...

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Centre-pull hangers are all too short, so...

Old 11-24-20, 09:27 AM
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Centre-pull hangers are all too short, so...

I made my own.

It's just a nut, drilled and tapped M6x1, silver-soldered to a bent spoke. It goes around the seatpost clamp bolt.

AND they all rust except the Mafac stainless ones - this won't: Brass and stainless and silver.

Anybody else want one?




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Old 11-24-20, 09:32 AM
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@oneclick - Show us the application please.
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Old 11-24-20, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
@oneclick - Show us the application please.
Rear brake (thot that was implied by "seatpost clamp bolt).
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Old 11-24-20, 10:18 AM
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Great idea for thinking outside the box. Hmm, I have no idea what the tension load is on the part under hard braking... those connections will hold?
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Old 11-24-20, 10:53 AM
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I have one of these on my Surly Cross Check: https://surlybikes.com/parts/cable_hanger

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Old 11-24-20, 11:06 AM
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I also would like to see how it installs, but yes, I am interested! Always appreciate it when C&Vers are also skilled DIYers, we have had many examples over the years!
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Old 11-24-20, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by tiger1964 View Post
... those connections will hold?
the SURLY looks like a weld. The OP is using a braze.
It would be easy enough to insert a bolt and pull on it test it. I'm guessing a person could go full 200lb of body weight on the SURLY welded part and just hang out for a good long time.

A possible improvement to the OP's hack would be a tall nut to get more brazed length. Maybe bend the spoke around the nut a bit. Maybe put a flat on the spoke to get more surface area.

Found this trying to get a best guess on brazed joint shear strength: https://lucasmilhaupt.com/EN/Brazing...ndamentals.htm
see table 1 here: https://app.aws.org/wj/supplement/WJ_1975_08_s276.pdf

... next question: fatigue cycles associated with braking (which would lead to breaking....)

i should really get back to work....
anyway, I'll vote HACK (not a bodge.....)

cheers.
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Old 11-24-20, 11:33 AM
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@oneclick - I implied a picture with my request.
Such as:
075_PaTrek on Flickr
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Old 11-24-20, 11:34 AM
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I've made several of these with spokes and cable stop braze-ons. They are perfectly strong. To the OP, nice thinking on using a brass nut.
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Old 11-24-20, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mrv View Post
A possible improvement to the OP's hack would be a tall nut to get more brazed length. Maybe bend the spoke around the nut a bit. Maybe put a flat on the spoke to get more surface area.
a) yes
b) yes
c) no, I already file a groove into the nut, and I check for full-fillets (see pic 1 & 3, below).

Mk II:




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Old 11-24-20, 02:37 PM
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Good work!
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Old 11-25-20, 06:02 AM
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I would take 2 or 3
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Old 11-25-20, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by bwilli88 View Post
I would take 2 or 3
How about 3 of Mk III (pictured below) for $30 and I'll pay postage. You only get the hanger, you'll have to supply your own adjuster.

This one has the plain nut, but it has two holes cross-drilled into the edges and the spoke is bent 90 degrees and silver-soldered into the holes. I think this is (so far) the best solution, it's lighter than Mk II, the thread engagement for the adjuster is longer. It's a 2mm spoke, if you have a seat-lug with a show-off thin kerf it may not fit; I can make one with a thinner spoke if that's the case.

Just to be clear, this is *real* silver solder, the same as used in jewellery, not that "silver-bearing" stuff sold in hardware stores. It melts at medium-red heat and has a bulk UTS of around 50 KSI, the hardware stuff you can do with a soldering iron and is more like 10 KSI. It's not coming apart.



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Old 11-25-20, 08:10 AM
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I made something similar for my Holdsworth Gugifacazione, but instead of a nut soldered to the spoke, i have a piece of aluminum. The ends of the spoke go all the way through the aluminum piece and are then bent to a J shape, the end of which goes back into a second hole in the aluminum. Ive used this for a few years, no problems.


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Old 11-27-20, 01:20 PM
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Mk IV prototype...

This was too much trouble to make the way it is. If I do anymore like this it'll probably just have a separate ring, not be formed from one piece:


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Old 11-28-20, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by oneclick View Post
This was too much trouble to make the way it is. If I do anymore like this it'll probably just have a separate ring, not be formed from one piece:


Now THIS is a great upgrade!! Such a smart/elegant solution to help alight the cable housing and relieve that pressure right at the adjuster.
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Old 11-28-20, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rhm View Post
I made something similar for my Holdsworth Gugifacazione, but instead of a nut soldered to the spoke, i have a piece of aluminum. The ends of the spoke go all the way through the aluminum piece and are then bent to a J shape, the end of which goes back into a second hole in the aluminum. Ive used this for a few years, no problems.
That's a great no-heat solution.

But maybe something like this would keep that cable-outer from rubbing:



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Old 11-28-20, 08:01 AM
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There’s no end to the creativity found in this forum - kudos!
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Old 11-28-20, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by oneclick View Post
This was too much trouble to make the way it is. If I do anymore like this it'll probably just have a separate ring, not be formed from one piece:
The expensive part might be the custom wrench for that locknut. I don't even think an ignition wrench (remember those?) would fit. OTOH, I could be proven wrong...

Or mount the locknut underneath?
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Old 11-28-20, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by tiger1964 View Post
The expensive part might be the custom wrench for that locknut. I don't even think an ignition wrench (remember those?) would fit. OTOH, I could be proven wrong...

Or mount the locknut underneath?
It's no trouble really, you can get at the outermost flats easily with pretty much any spanner, and you just turn your adjuster the max 30 degrees either way to get it lockable.

I do have a nice little channel-lock-type set of pliers, the jaws are about 3/32" thick and about 3/4" long, it works no matter where the adjuster is.
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Old 11-28-20, 01:08 PM
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Maybe bend the spoke pear-shaped around the adjuster? Might be wise to braze in a curved reinforcement to prevent it from straightening out.
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Old 11-28-20, 07:16 PM
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Old cable housing adjusters had mere knurling on their (usually round) locknut, so didn't rely on anything more than finger-tightening.

I find that they tend never to loosen on their own!
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Old 11-30-20, 09:58 AM
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5mm/wingnut version

I had to get more brass nuts to make more of these things. I knew that the flat nuts I had would not work for a 5mm adjuster; either the existing hole was too big or the nut outside was too small. Then I saw my local hardware store had 8-32 brass wingnuts:




The nut costs more but that's not a big factor, it's just as easy to make. I got some 10-24 wingnuts and will make a few 6mm versions like this.
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