sean.hwy

https://www.lightbicycle.com/

:-)

cuevélo

Does anyone have insights to decide between these two options? I currently run my OEM wheels with Schwalbe One TLE 28 tubless, which measure about 28.4mm inflated. I ride decent pavement for the most part, but could put my OEM wheels on if I was planning on going over extensive dirt/smooth gravel. I'm looking for the faster wheel at ~20mph on decent quality pavement.

WR50 (32mm external width) rim, run 28mm tires tubeless, which would measure 31.2mm according to LB
AR45 (28mm external width) rim, run 25mm tires tubeless, measure 28.6mm

smashndash

I would say, unless you're racing, you should stay away from ultra wide rims with relatively skinny tires. I use 25mm tires on AR56s (30mm) and my friend uses 25mm tires on AR46s (28mm). We both have suffered chips to the edges of our rims from random rocks.

Riding in actual dirt/gravel with such a setup would be a bad, bad idea. My friend ordered a new rim after just one chip, to be on the safe side.

A less serious effect is that, with ultra wide rims, the contact patch gets wider. This is a good thing, but most tires are not optimized for wide rims and low pressures. So, if you actually try to lean on such a setup, you'll run out of tread very quickly and end up riding on sidewall. There are 4 solutions:

1) use a tire with a wider tread like the Corsa Control
2) use a narrower rim
3) use higher pressures to reduce the size of the contact patch
4) use a bigger tire

If you're a light person, I would recommend going with a 28 on the AR45. If you're heavy, I'd recommend going with 30 or 32 on the WR50.

FWIW I have had absolutely no issues with stability on my AR56. And I'm quite light (145lbs). Regularly hit 50mph. I'd recommend the AR55 over the AR45.

cuevélo

How do yours do in crosswinds? I'm 135-140lbs, 5'9-5'10

smashndash

That's what I meant with no issues with stability. I can't ride over 22ish mph with no hands because of the danger of sudden gusts, but as long as I have 2 hands on the bars, it's not an issue.

Expect to have to actively counter crosswinds, but it's nothing you can't handle.

Rides4Beer

New wheels are finished, just have to wait for them to get here.

AR56, DT240 EXP, satin finish w/Pro decals, no holes, CX-Ray/CX-Sprint rear, CX-Ray front, 1462g.

cuevélo

Another wheelset just came in!

AR45, flyweight, hookless, paintless UD, without rim bed holes, with water drain holes. Carbon-Ti X-Hub SP Centerlock. Sapim CX Ray spokes with brass Polyax Secure Lock nipples.

Quoted weight: 1318.38 ±25 g
Actual weight: 618 front + 715 rear = 1333 g, without valves, lockrings, or tape (not needed)

Schwalbe ONE TLE 25mm tires measure just about 27mm wide.

The valves are very nice. Someone said you won't find any nicer ones for a better price and they're definitely right about that.

I may be able to get outside and use them next week!

Also, for anyone who might be waiting on an MTS delivery, mine took 18 days from when they shipped to when they "Arrived at port - Import," and 26 more days to when they were actually in UPS's hands.

cybirr 

Yes, the MTS shipping slows wayyyyy down once it reaches the US port of Los Angeles, CA. These are Light Bicycle Falcon 65s with DTSwiss 350 hubs. And I am impressed with the speed. Cross wind have been up to about 7 mph and not a serious problem, yet. Mounting the Continental GP5000 TL 25mm were an absolute pain but doable. I am trying a TT series this year and will give a post-ride and post-season report.


Specialized Shiv Elite with upgraded drive train and wheel set.

illdrag0n

Just checking in. 8000kms on my AR46. I'm 120kg and 0 issues so far with strength and still run true.

BlueRaspberry

Has anyone seen, have additional info, or an opinion on these new "X-Flow" rims from LightBicycle? Introducing Falcon Pro AR375 & AR465 (lightbicycle.com)
(They're apparently launching a WR40 variant as well)

smashndash

Nothing intelligent to say besides take those claims with a grain of salt - don't go telling your friends your wheels are 37% faster than theirs. I'd also like to see a 55-60mm version. Kinda leaving the aero weenies high and dry here. Now you have to pick between a proven source of aero gains (deep rims) and an unproven one that might be faster. It would be nice to not have to pick.

BlueRaspberry

It's probably something akin to the new Zipp 353 - trying to combine the aero gains of deeper rims with the better crosswind handling (and lighter weight) of shallower rims.
Zipp 353 NSW info - Bike Forums

Rides4Beer

Love these wheels. Pic is with a 28mm GP5K on the rear and a 25mm up front, I have since switched to a 28mm up front, with no perceptible loss in speed, and wind handling is still good. I'm 84kg, and the roads here are crappy, so even if I'm giving up a few watts, it's worth it for the extra comfort. They are light and stiff and ride great.

AR56s, satin finish, no holes, DT240EXP hubs, 1455g.

WhyFi

Not fer nuthin', but saying that a wheel has 37% less aero drag != wheel is 37% faster.

Also not fer nuthin', but running these comparisons at ~37mph is kind of... interesting.

MinnMan

Has anybody purchased the "flyweight" version of Lightbicycle wheels? They provide nice weight savings at the expense of some strength. For example, for the Falcon WR35s with Novatecc hubs, the Flyweight wheelset comes in at about 1345 grams instead of 1445. Lightbicycle says that they are good for rider weights up to 90 kg.


https://www.lightbicycle.com/newslet...Duty-Rims.html

Very tempting, particularly as the wheelset cost is around $600. But I hesitate - particularly because these would be for a gravel bike, where a little heavier and stronger would be wise.

Just wondering if anybody has gone with flyweights, and if so, for what kind of riding, rider weight, et.

terrymorse 

Looks like we're neighbors.



Terry's cycling heat map

Badger6

I have no experience using this specific rim...but, knowing enough about wheel building (which isn't a lot, but I have built wheels that are still going strong), I suspect that in practice (real world application) there is likely no discernible difference to the rider between the rims in terms of strength or durability, or even ability of the rider to feel the weight...especially on gravel. On a test bench, the flyweights probably fail earlier than the standard rims, but under what conditions and/or test method?

A couple of random thoughts...90kg rider weight? or, is it really 90kg rider + bike weight? Also, what kind of gravel? Hard packed, yet generally not rutted or potholed fire roads? or, chunky gravel and ruts and potholes? or, non-technical single track?

I'd also consider if the weight savings is really that important? 100g is 3.5 oz...across the whole wheelset. Will it make a difference on a gravel bike? I think no, but YMMV. Additionally, Light Bicycle publishes the weights of the rims with a +/-15g, which means in theory, your weight savings may be much less than 100g. I am definitely not taking a position, but before I decided which rim to buy for a build, I would (and have) wrestle(d) with some of these questions. And, there is nothing wrong with seeking the lightest possible wheel build.

MinnMan

As indicated in the link from lightbicycles that I included in the post, the 90 kg is rider weight, not rider+bike weight.

btw, for an otherwise identical build, the "flyweight" option that shaves ~100 grams adds just $12 to the cost.

Still curious to hear from anybody who might have actually bought their flyweight builds.

SapInMyBlood

For $12, I would send it 👍

Badger6

That link says that…but when you go to a wheel building page, it lists “total weight” as 90kg.

cuevélo

My wheels are the flyweight version, though I only have 1000km on them at this point. My maximum system weight is about 75kg, so I felt confident getting them instead of the standard version. I haven't had any problems so far.

scottfsmith

I ordered flyweight but they emailed me saying it would add a couple months wait. So I nixed it.

Hey I think they still owe me $12..

SapInMyBlood

Has anyone had any issues with these wheels being.. Flexy ?

I have my rear wheel (R65) laced to a Carbon-Ti X-Hub, 24h, rim brake. When I first installed it, there was a noticeable amount of side play with the skewer tightened up (both 4mm bolt on and the OEM QR skewer). Descending at 70kph, the rear wheel felt super wobbly and unstable. We're talking nearly 2 inches of side play

I've since loosened the grub screw, tightened up the bearing preload with the finger tightening adjuster and retightened the grub screw... But I can still pull the rim side to side going back and forth to each brake pad (1"of play..)

Has anyone else had to adjust this on their new rims? I've put 850km on them since May 1st and it feels kind of **** after spending $2k on my first ever brand new wheelset

Rides4Beer

No flex at all on my AR56s w/DT240 hubs, 24/24, disc brake tho. CX-Ray spokes up front, CX-Ray/Sprint combo on the rear to make it stiffer.

illdrag0n

Definately no play on my AR46 with CX-Ray. Stiff as a honeymoon groom