jlaughlin9

The high limit screw on my SRAM eTap front derailleur is completely stripped and stuck. I've had it in the shop and tried several other "self-help" methods of extracting the screw with no avail (larger allen, hex tool, rubber band over allen tool, dab 'o glue on an allen end, etc.). Knowing that there are replacement screws available, I'd really like to exhaust all removal options before shelling out for a new one. Thoughts on extraction techniques? I'm guessing this is far too delicate for drilling into the screw. Thanks in advance.

dsbrantjr

There are available left-hand drill bits which you could try, but the screw is likely harder than the derailleur body so the bit may try to wander: https://www.harborfreight.com/left-h...-pc-61686.html Can you grab the screw with something like Vise-Grips?

sch

According to the SRAM literature, the high limit screw is L hand threaded if I am interpreting their statement: "the
high limit screw is reverse threaded" . The limit screws are allen headed set screws that are in the cage
swing arm, not very accessible and quite small. The allen size is 2.5mm hex. Drilling out would be dicey enough
and likely require retapping the hole with the next larger size, unclear how much clearance there is in the innards
for this. I can think of two options, neither very suitable for amateur use: 1) weld an allen head wrench into the
socket and remove 2) find a machine shop with a small EDM machine which would remove the stripped allen
screw without damaging the rest of the RD. If community colleges were open in your area and had a machine
shop program you might be able to throw yourself on their mercy to get either of these done.

SRAM manual: page 20 and then page 62 https://www.servicearchive.sram.com/...ems_manual.pdf

There are chemical methods of removing broken steel stuff from aluminum parts but you would have to remove the cage and swing
arm from the FD to use these as the chemical method attacks any ferrous metal.

jlaughlin9

Thanks for the additional information. Unfortunately, the screw is flush, so any gripping is impossible. I'll look into your other suggestion, though.

jlaughlin9

That's a well thought out response, and very appreciated. I'm certainly an amateur, and those methods are above my pay grade, however, there may be some avenues to consider in my immediate sphere. Thanks!

fietsbob

Replace the whole part remains the 'bite the bullet' option

... Then with the new one you can replace the standard screws with a more positive grip interface, than the one you had trouble with..
Hex socket cap screw or Torx perhaps,,

NB:
I don't own nor does the LBS here deal in the higher end components ..
visiting cycle tourists have had to hang out here when things break that need to be special ordered..
(Microbrew-cafes, restaurants, and hotel rooms are many)






...

sch

etap FD is ~$400, so some room to maneuver with a repair job. If the thread is indeed L handed and the set screw is
otherwise standard, an allen key size of 2.5mm (as per SRAM manual above) suggests a set screw with 5Mx0.8 threading.
Mcmaster does not have such listed in set screws but does in round head screws: https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/roun...d-head-screws/
The other limit screw is presumably R hand thread but could be used to verify the screw size.

dedhed

You missed the Left hand thread part

Steelman54 

Dumb question maybe, but can you remove the FD and get at set screw from other end. I just might turn if lucky using needle nose pliers, keeping left hand thread in mind at all times. Or maybe I missed something here.

motorthings

have you called SRAM support to see if they'll take pity on you and help you out?

fietsbob

How did you break it off ? stroke limit screws are not something you need to or should mess with once the bike is set up.

sch

It is not broken, it is an allen headed set screw that is essentially flush with the aluminum swing arm for the cage and
the hex socket is buggered up. I agree that this is not easy to do, but the OP has this problem.

In the pix you can see the limit screw allen heads on the swing arm between the SRAM on the cage and RED on the body:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MNFSFM...osi&th=1&psc=1

Looking at the expanded view it might be feasible to remove the swing arm and cage if that is a snap ring
on the left end of the swing arm axle but dealing with the spring would be interesting on reassembly.

3Roch

You mentioned the "dab of glue" but what I might try at this point is clean out the screw hex really well (alcohol) , roughen up the end of the largest allen wrench that will fully seat, and stick the 2 together with steel filled JB weld..Make sure it's totally cured( like a couple days where it's warm) as it will take a while as it will only be a tiny bit of JB

Don't stick the screw to the DR :-)

scott967

I know this is no help/hindsight but those screws are nice, compared to the cross-slotted that need a special screwdriver. But I see they get grease/grit in them and that it is so small it isn't easy to see if your hex wrench is well-seated. So I take care to clean that out well prior to trying to adjust it.

If you try the "glue something to it" approach be darned sure you get that screw as clean as possible, or I don't have much hope of that glue joint holding.

scott s.
.

TombaF16

I had the same problem...sorry it was a year late for you! The high limit screw is reverse threaded 2.5MM hex. When it is stripped you have "hole" in the screw that will allow a "Metric Thread Machine Tap" size "M3" to fit into the hole. Proceed like you are going to tap new threads into the hole in the bolt. As you attempt to screw the tap clockwise into the hole in the stuck bolt, it will "catch" and the bolt will come right out of the SRAM derailleur. This works great because the high limit screw is reverse threaded and turning it clockwise actually backs it out of derailleur.

You can also buy a new "screw set" for the SRAM eTap Red anywhere online for about $40....so ~$10 for the Tap and ~$40 for the new screw set and you are back in business.

I had multiple bike shops tell me there was no way to get this screw out AND SRAM no longer made my eTAP red set...and I would need an entire new groupo...do not believe it!

psweath

Sounded like a good idea and I tried it. My H-limit screw is so seized, the tap didn't turn it, instead I think it just made some nice threads inside the 2.5mm head of the screw.

joejack951

What happened then when you bottomed out the tap? If you don't feel comfortable torquing harder with the tap, grab an M3 screw and thread it into those nice tapped threads. Then use that new screw to back the set screw out. Much less chance of it breaking like what may happen with the tap.

psweath

jojack - I was putting a lot of torque on that tap, and it just seemed to bottom out and wouldn't turn in anymore. Per your suggestion, I tried an M3 screw but it didn't work - would just turn as if stripped. I just don't think there's enough material left in there to work with. So we found a new Red eTap front mech on eBay auction which was at $320 with a few days to go. My guy authorized me to go up to $650. As usual the snipers swooped in, I bid my $650 in the last 19 seconds, and it went to $660, $800, and sold for $810!!! No kidding! My guy then bought another supposedly new one from China with a Buy It Now price of $600, plus $30 shipping. It's supposed to arrive Jun3-Jun16....we'll see. This is on a $10,000 Cervelo p5 and without a replacement derailleur he'd have to upgrade the whole bike to AXS or get a new bike, right?

joejack951

For that kind of money send it to me and I’ll get it out. You’ll be back in business for far less money. I do want to see it before giving an actual price, though.

hmsolomon

Perfect advice - I have those bits and will give it a shot. For what it’s worth, this is my second eTap FD that had the same problem. I used blue locktite on this new FD and it only took 1 year to seize. I may just go to grease rather than locktite.

oldbobcat

I've managed to twist stripped Allen bolts with the largest Torx tool that will fit in the hole without being forced.