retiredguru

One of the most trying aspects of this pandemic for me is dealing with the difficulties in getting parts for a bike I am building. Delays in shipping are understandable, albeit frustrating to the point of pulling my hair out at times. What takes the cake is when the wrong items are shipped. Recently I returned a 32h front hub with a disc brake mount. What I ordered was a 36h rear freewheel hub. Yeah, not even close. Well, today, the first chance after months (yes, literally) of waiting for parts to come in to build both wheels, I was finally able to mount the tubes and tires. Awesome, except...WTF? Front rim Presta, rear rim Shrader? Argh! I'm fit to be tied!





The front wheel rim was ordered as one of a pair. Only one was in stock. That rim came in over a month ago and the front wheel was built up then. I ordered the second rim from another vendor, which came in more recently. Both orders specified Shrader valve holes. Obviously, the first supplier screwed up the order, but I would have been fine with a pair of rims with Presta valve holes, as I already have new tubes to fit on hand.

This whole project has been one from hell. Now that I am ready to assemble the bike, I can't wait to see what new mishaps will befall this project. COVID-19 Gremlins: I hatez you! I need a drink...

jackbombay

That one would irk me too!

On a fresh build I would ride to the LBS and buy another tube :-)

trailangel

If you want both shrader, drill out the presta valve hole.

retiredguru

First thought was to do that. I might at the end of the riding season. The 26" ARAYA rims on my Specialize Hard Rock are notorious for cutting into the rubber of Shrader valves. Deburring has marginally helped as the holes are actually larger than the what the valves are on the tubes I have been getting.

It's the continual stream of problems associated with this build, from day one, accentuated by supply and shipping debacles due to the times, that has made this such a pain.

scarlson 

I often like using Schrader rims with a grommet to presta to avoid this problem. The grommet takes all the abuse the rim can dish out and the tube stays perfect. Cheap or old tubes will still pull out at the valve, however. The polluted Boston air seems to do a number on them, tubes lasted forever back in Vermont.

79pmooney

My first thought. I just approach this with care because I have never found a schraeder to presta bit in case I change my mind. (Just like I still don't have that saw to cut 2X4s longer.)

retiredguru

Do you off hand know where I can find the grommets? The last time I saw these offered was in the 70s, of course I haven't looked for them since.

I'm inclined to put the blame for too loose valves on the ARAYA's as a reflection of the reduction in materials used to make modern tubes. The rims were designed for off-road use; original tubes were heavier all around.

Conversely, the Shrader valves have struggle to get into the hole on the one CR-18 rim designed for it.

Our rural setting hasn't been too bad for air quality, although, black soot from diesel-burning trucking going through our little city coat the houses along the main drag. Bleck. I can't imagine why anyone would want to live on these streets.

retiredguru

Agreed.

cudak888 

I have a beaut in this department. I picked up a 1980's city bicycle from the local scrap guy for the parts. The wheels and handlebar have found their way to my Porteur de Viande Mystère. Well, turns out that it has a set of "matching" Weinmann rims with bulged eyelet holes...except the rear is stamped with larger holes for tandem spokes and spoke nipples. They've got to be 12 or 11 gauge.

The hubs match, so I'm guessing this might have been intentional from the factory. The donor frame was a Union-badged Polycarbonex (which, to my knowledge, was made in Germany), so perhaps they expected dinking on the back? Paging JaccoW and non-fixie for info on that theory...









-Kurt

dedhed

Metal
https://www.amazon.com/Quad-Wheels-M...4570841&sr=8-8


Rubber

https://www.greggscycles.com/product...saAu47EALw_wcB

scarlson 

Here are some nice ones on ebay, only problem is you can't get a jar of 100 of them to save on shipping:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RUBBER-BICY...E/291958510677

In search of a bulk option, I found these from China. They fit a little too tight, but work passably as long as you're patient installing them. Order the ID 6mm/OD 8mm option:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pc-Rubber...e/192923784643

cyccommute 

You can go with a simple stepped nut . They often come on threaded presta valves. Your local LBS may even have a bunch of them hanging around. This kind also works. I have some rubber ones that never worked all that well. They are difficult to put in and tend to get pushed out when mounting the tire.

PM me and I’ll send you several different versions.

retiredguru

Thanks! I like the concept of using metal--no to flexible--but I wonder if the weight added to that of the valve stem would make for a noticeable out-of-balance coming fast down a hill?

retiredguru

[QUOTE=scarlson;21583239]Here are some nice ones on ebay, only problem is you can't get a jar of 100 of them to save on shipping:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RUBBER-BICY...E/291958510677

Thanks! I'm seeing free shipping regardless of the quantity ordered. Bookmarked.

retiredguru

I've had some issues on other rims designed like the CR-18s with the base of the valve stem being cut because the Shrader hole was a little too large for the Shader valve stems on a three different tubes I tried. Cut right through. I'd rather have a filler that goes all the way through the hole, as your second link shows, and a couple of others mentioned previously.

I'm thinking go with the metal sleeves. I've been eating too many tubes this season. >_>

Noted, and thanks. I think I'll order a set of the metal sleeves and see how that works.

cyccommute 

I have a couple of each version discussed above that have been in my parts drawers for ages. PM your address and I'll send them to you. I'm not using them.

retiredguru

Thank you!!

non-fixie 

Sorry, I haven't a clue.

BTW, the paging system doesn't seem to work. I stumbled across your mention by chance.

BTW 2, I love that TA Professionel crankset.

madpogue 

Just use a reversing drill....

retiredguru

I want to kickout a forum-thanks to Stuart, aka cyccommute , for his tremendously helpful C.A.R.E. package. He send me an assortment of options to reduce a Schrader valve hole to safely accommodate a Presta valve. A combination of metal spacer and locknut worked perfectly. Thanks again, Stuart.

seedsbelize 

Huh!? I think I have some of those metal ones. Long ago, I bought a pair for a friend and a pair for myself. Mine immediately disappeared. But now I know where to look. They are mixed in with my "Problem Solvers" stuff. Thanks all

dedhed

In a pinch I've even dug through my coffee can of caps and plugs and dug out something "close enough" and drilled it out.

https://www.caplugs.com/plugs

retiredguru

UPDATE:

As posted previously, I installed the metal barrel variety 'Presta Saver' on the rear rim with the Schrader valve hole. The next day I found the top edge of the sleeve had cut into the base of the Presta valve. Yes, I had placed tape over it, but it still moved on me and that's all that tube wrote. So I removed it and tried the others given to me by Stuart cyccommute . The combination that looked like it would work is a rubber sleeve version of the metal barrel, from the inside, backed up by a locknut that recesses into the Schrader hole, from the outside.

Yesterday, on a ride, I was one mile short of my 13+ personal TT and I went flat. My first thought was that the saver had failed, that I had once again cut a valve base. I was fit to be tied. This morning I took the tube out. Not the saver this time. A small amber glass chard, picked up in the area I went flat, had cut through the casing. I had to pry it out with a pair of pliers. I've placed a rubber patch on the inside of the carcass over the spot. I don't expect it to last very long, and it really won't matter, as I've ordered a pair of Continental Gatorskin Hardshells. The county and state are terrible at managing the shoulders of our roads, and not doing all that well on the road itself. For the price, these better not only be bullet-proof, but rub my feet after a ride.

So now I have a pair of Continental Ultra Sport II's with less than a hundred miles on them, one of which has a hole through the carcass, and they'll have to be backups, unless I build up another set of wheels for this bike. Not happy about my luck with the Miyata build. Clearly showing signs of becoming a money pit.

There is a silver lining, albeit small: the Presta saver combination, rubber insert and recessed locknut, appear to be working as hoped for. Yay. I guess. (sighs in frustration)