Mismatched Valve Stems! Argh! I'm fit to be tied!
#1
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Mismatched Valve Stems! Argh! I'm fit to be tied!
One of the most trying aspects of this pandemic for me is dealing with the difficulties in getting parts for a bike I am building. Delays in shipping are understandable, albeit frustrating to the point of pulling my hair out at times. What takes the cake is when the wrong items are shipped. Recently I returned a 32h front hub with a disc brake mount. What I ordered was a 36h rear freewheel hub. Yeah, not even close. Well, today, the first chance after months (yes, literally) of waiting for parts to come in to build both wheels, I was finally able to mount the tubes and tires. Awesome, except...WTF? Front rim Presta, rear rim Shrader? Argh! I'm fit to be tied!
The front wheel rim was ordered as one of a pair. Only one was in stock. That rim came in over a month ago and the front wheel was built up then. I ordered the second rim from another vendor, which came in more recently. Both orders specified Shrader valve holes. Obviously, the first supplier screwed up the order, but I would have been fine with a pair of rims with Presta valve holes, as I already have new tubes to fit on hand.
This whole project has been one from hell. Now that I am ready to assemble the bike, I can't wait to see what new mishaps will befall this project. COVID-19 Gremlins: I hatez you! I need a drink...
The front wheel rim was ordered as one of a pair. Only one was in stock. That rim came in over a month ago and the front wheel was built up then. I ordered the second rim from another vendor, which came in more recently. Both orders specified Shrader valve holes. Obviously, the first supplier screwed up the order, but I would have been fine with a pair of rims with Presta valve holes, as I already have new tubes to fit on hand.
This whole project has been one from hell. Now that I am ready to assemble the bike, I can't wait to see what new mishaps will befall this project. COVID-19 Gremlins: I hatez you! I need a drink...
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#4
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First thought was to do that. I might at the end of the riding season. The 26" ARAYA rims on my Specialize Hard Rock are notorious for cutting into the rubber of Shrader valves. Deburring has marginally helped as the holes are actually larger than the what the valves are on the tubes I have been getting.
It's the continual stream of problems associated with this build, from day one, accentuated by supply and shipping debacles due to the times, that has made this such a pain.
It's the continual stream of problems associated with this build, from day one, accentuated by supply and shipping debacles due to the times, that has made this such a pain.
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First thought was to do that. I might at the end of the riding season. The 26" ARAYA rims on my Specialize Hard Rock are notorious for cutting into the rubber of Shrader valves. Deburring has marginally helped as the holes are actually larger than the what the valves are on the tubes I have been getting.
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
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#7
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Cheap or old tubes will still pull out at the valve, however.
Conversely, the Shrader valves have struggle to get into the hole on the one CR-18 rim designed for it.
The polluted Boston air seems to do a number on them, tubes lasted forever back in Vermont.
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#9
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I have a beaut in this department. I picked up a 1980's city bicycle from the local scrap guy for the parts. The wheels and handlebar have found their way to my Porteur de Viande Mystère. Well, turns out that it has a set of "matching" Weinmann rims with bulged eyelet holes...except the rear is stamped with larger holes for tandem spokes and spoke nipples. They've got to be 12 or 11 gauge.
The hubs match, so I'm guessing this might have been intentional from the factory. The donor frame was a Union-badged Polycarbonex (which, to my knowledge, was made in Germany), so perhaps they expected dinking on the back? Paging JaccoW and non-fixie for info on that theory...
-Kurt
The hubs match, so I'm guessing this might have been intentional from the factory. The donor frame was a Union-badged Polycarbonex (which, to my knowledge, was made in Germany), so perhaps they expected dinking on the back? Paging JaccoW and non-fixie for info on that theory...
-Kurt
Last edited by cudak888; 07-12-20 at 10:24 AM.
#10
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/RUBBER-BICY...E/291958510677
In search of a bulk option, I found these from China. They fit a little too tight, but work passably as long as you're patient installing them. Order the ID 6mm/OD 8mm option:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pc-Rubber...e/192923784643
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
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#12
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You can go with a simple stepped nut . They often come on threaded presta valves. Your local LBS may even have a bunch of them hanging around. This kind also works. I have some rubber ones that never worked all that well. They are difficult to put in and tend to get pushed out when mounting the tire.
PM me and I’ll send you several different versions.
PM me and I’ll send you several different versions.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Last edited by cyccommute; 07-12-20 at 10:33 AM.
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#13
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#14
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[QUOTE=scarlson;21583239]Here are some nice ones on ebay, only problem is you can't get a jar of 100 of them to save on shipping:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RUBBER-BICY...E/291958510677
Thanks! I'm seeing free shipping regardless of the quantity ordered. Bookmarked.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RUBBER-BICY...E/291958510677
Thanks! I'm seeing free shipping regardless of the quantity ordered. Bookmarked.
#15
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You can go with a simple stepped nut . They often come on threaded presta valves.
Your local LBS may even have a bunch of them hanging around. This kind also works. I have some rubber ones that never worked all that well. They are difficult to put in and tend to get pushed out when mounting the tire.
PM me and I’ll send you several different versions.
#16
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I have a couple of each version discussed above that have been in my parts drawers for ages. PM your address and I'll send them to you. I'm not using them.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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#17
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I have a beaut in this department. I picked up a 1980's city bicycle from the local scrap guy for the parts. The wheels and handlebar have found their way to my Porteur de Viande Mystère. Well, turns out that it has a set of "matching" Weinmann rims with bulged eyelet holes...except the rear is stamped with larger holes for tandem spokes and spoke nipples. They've got to be 12 or 11 gauge.
The hubs match, so I'm guessing this might have been intentional from the factory. The donor frame was a Union-badged Polycarbonex (which, to my knowledge, was made in Germany), so perhaps they expected dinking on the back? Paging JaccoW and non-fixie for info on that theory...
-Kurt
The hubs match, so I'm guessing this might have been intentional from the factory. The donor frame was a Union-badged Polycarbonex (which, to my knowledge, was made in Germany), so perhaps they expected dinking on the back? Paging JaccoW and non-fixie for info on that theory...
-Kurt
BTW, the paging system doesn't seem to work. I stumbled across your mention by chance.
BTW 2, I love that TA Professionel crankset.
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#20
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I want to kickout a forum-thanks to Stuart, aka cyccommute , for his tremendously helpful C.A.R.E. package. He send me an assortment of options to reduce a Schrader valve hole to safely accommodate a Presta valve. A combination of metal spacer and locknut worked perfectly. Thanks again, Stuart.
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In a pinch I've even dug through my coffee can of caps and plugs and dug out something "close enough" and drilled it out.
https://www.caplugs.com/plugs
https://www.caplugs.com/plugs
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#23
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UPDATE:
As posted previously, I installed the metal barrel variety 'Presta Saver' on the rear rim with the Schrader valve hole. The next day I found the top edge of the sleeve had cut into the base of the Presta valve. Yes, I had placed tape over it, but it still moved on me and that's all that tube wrote. So I removed it and tried the others given to me by Stuart cyccommute . The combination that looked like it would work is a rubber sleeve version of the metal barrel, from the inside, backed up by a locknut that recesses into the Schrader hole, from the outside.
Yesterday, on a ride, I was one mile short of my 13+ personal TT and I went flat. My first thought was that the saver had failed, that I had once again cut a valve base. I was fit to be tied. This morning I took the tube out. Not the saver this time. A small amber glass chard, picked up in the area I went flat, had cut through the casing. I had to pry it out with a pair of pliers. I've placed a rubber patch on the inside of the carcass over the spot. I don't expect it to last very long, and it really won't matter, as I've ordered a pair of Continental Gatorskin Hardshells. The county and state are terrible at managing the shoulders of our roads, and not doing all that well on the road itself. For the price, these better not only be bullet-proof, but rub my feet after a ride.
So now I have a pair of Continental Ultra Sport II's with less than a hundred miles on them, one of which has a hole through the carcass, and they'll have to be backups, unless I build up another set of wheels for this bike. Not happy about my luck with the Miyata build. Clearly showing signs of becoming a money pit.
There is a silver lining, albeit small: the Presta saver combination, rubber insert and recessed locknut, appear to be working as hoped for. Yay. I guess. (sighs in frustration)
As posted previously, I installed the metal barrel variety 'Presta Saver' on the rear rim with the Schrader valve hole. The next day I found the top edge of the sleeve had cut into the base of the Presta valve. Yes, I had placed tape over it, but it still moved on me and that's all that tube wrote. So I removed it and tried the others given to me by Stuart cyccommute . The combination that looked like it would work is a rubber sleeve version of the metal barrel, from the inside, backed up by a locknut that recesses into the Schrader hole, from the outside.
Yesterday, on a ride, I was one mile short of my 13+ personal TT and I went flat. My first thought was that the saver had failed, that I had once again cut a valve base. I was fit to be tied. This morning I took the tube out. Not the saver this time. A small amber glass chard, picked up in the area I went flat, had cut through the casing. I had to pry it out with a pair of pliers. I've placed a rubber patch on the inside of the carcass over the spot. I don't expect it to last very long, and it really won't matter, as I've ordered a pair of Continental Gatorskin Hardshells. The county and state are terrible at managing the shoulders of our roads, and not doing all that well on the road itself. For the price, these better not only be bullet-proof, but rub my feet after a ride.
So now I have a pair of Continental Ultra Sport II's with less than a hundred miles on them, one of which has a hole through the carcass, and they'll have to be backups, unless I build up another set of wheels for this bike. Not happy about my luck with the Miyata build. Clearly showing signs of becoming a money pit.
There is a silver lining, albeit small: the Presta saver combination, rubber insert and recessed locknut, appear to be working as hoped for. Yay. I guess. (sighs in frustration)