sshakari

this is from the manual. Does not seem that difficult. It was very easy to install and inflate so I cant imagine that it will be difficult to remove.

eduskator

I like the 2nd picture where they say you can remove the bead on one side & stretch it past the rim to unmount it using your thumb and index...loooooooool

Plastic tire levers for me to start and then fingers.

noodle soup

I use a Pedro's yellow lever to remove tires from CF rims all the time, but I have never needed a lever to install a tire.

DrIsotope

So according to Shimano, lift one bead out while managing not to unseat the other bead. Oh man. I think I've just had a glimpse into a parallel reality, where the impossible is possible. With an MTB tire you could, maybe. But a road tire? You'd have a better chance of initially seating the tire by blowing into the stem with your mouth.

guadzilla

Ok, glad to see i wasnt the only one who was looking at that and going WTF. And i am now gone over to the tri-dork side, and so actually have arm muscles, unlike you skinny-armed roadies...

eduskator

If someone is able to remove a tire from a CF rim without the use of levers, I would like to see a video. Either the tire is very slack or the person has long steel nails.

WhyFi

Just to continue the sharing of experiences -

I took a pretty good cut to the front tire today and it just wouldn't seal. Much like my only other Goldilocks puncture, it was about 1/4". I tried out a bacon strip and that got me a couple miles, but again, the cut was just a little too big and it wanted to push out, much like the last time. Rather than resort to a tube, I gave it one more try - this time I threaded the bacon strip on the insertion tool and then I tied it in a knot before jamming it in the cut, getting the knot inside of the carcass. That did the trick and it held pressure the rest of the way home, about 10 miles or so. I'm undecided as to whether I'll keep it in there and see how it fares or if I'll pull the tire and internally patch. I don't have the time to ride for a couple days, anyway, so I have time to ponder and feel it out.

But yeah - if you take a good cut and your bacon strip isn't holding, try tying it in a knot before inserting it. Frankly, I was pretty set on trying out the plugs with the metal barbs, but I'm not sure that one would have fared any better with this size of cut and there's certainly no option to tie it in a knot.

eduskator

Has anyone tried the Beto Surge Tubeless Pump? It's 48$ on merlin cycle & has a built-in air tank... Plus, it looks very good IMO. Reviews are also positive.



https://www.merlincycles.com/en-us/b...mp-122118.html

Just waiting for the product to be stocked again so I can go ahead & purchase it along with 2 Schwalbe Pro One tires & a pint of Stans.

NoWhammies

Can't comment on the Beto pump but I did just purchase this one based on the reviews. Filzer Quick Blaster Tubeless Floor Pump.

Once the pump arrives and I give it a try I'll report back.

eduskator

I saw this one, but didn't like the gauge. It had good reviews though.

WhyFi

Most of the weight of sealant is water - 1-2 fl oz of sealant is pretty damn light when it's all dried up. If you're riding at a decent rate, I wouldn't bother with unmounting and cleaning out at all. If you're only putting enough miles to wear out a set of tires every two or three years, I'd wonder if flat frequency is even worth the bother of going tubeless vs tubes. If flat frequency is still problematic, you probably don't need to worry too much - you'll be losing sealant a little at a time, any way, and you'll probably have tires beat up enough to warrant replacing before the tread wears out.

WhyFi

I've never used the previous gen Pro 1 - their reputation for relatively poor wear and fragility kept me from being too interested. As far as the sizing, Schwalbe has been very explicit - they're smaller as they're sized with wider, more modern rims in mind. IIRC, inflated width should ~match nominal width with a 19mm internal rim, but you can check their site to confirm.

As far as sealant longevity - 7 months for Stan's doesn't mean much if it doesn't work worth a piss at road pressures, anyway. My experience with OS is, as previously mentioned... it depends. I've had it last and be effective for 3-4 months in a front tire. What usually happens, though, is that it's used up due to punctures or it goes watery and ineffective (I think that this is from water infiltration - how it works in to the rim/tire, I don't know, but I don't think that it's just a separation of the sealant in to water and solids, but I could be wrong). This is why I preach to get a process and a schedule down for regular checks. I usually check every 6-8 weeks unless I have reason to believe that the levels will be low (like the big cut that I took yesterday. )

eduskator

I agree.

I'm also all-in for preventive maintenance. I've read & learned a lot since my 1st flat on TL setup last month, and I plan on getting one of these syringes with tubes that goes inside the tire through the valve. It's easy to check your sealant level & see if it's still good. Cheap and effective.

NoWhammies

Yeah, I was wondering about that. From looking at the photos on the website, I thought the gauge might give me issues/trouble. I figured I'd order the pump and if worse comes to worst, I could always return it. The reviews are what sold me.

WhyFi

As an update on the knotted bacon strip plug: I decided to throw caution to the wind and put my faith in it - today was my first ride since plugging it and I decided on a solo century. It was just dandy - I completely forgot about it after the first hour or so.

noodle soup

Thanks for the naughty bacon tip.

GoodShipRuffles

Hi,

I searched up this topic because I'm just about to get my tri bike out (is the T word allowed here?) and am having sadly familiar problems with the UST Mavic wheels. Wheel went flat just after changing the cassette (!)
Just thought I'd add my experience to the mix.
I don't tend to ride on the tri bike on the road much. Bit of turbo training to get used to the position. Occasional circuit to see how fit I am.
Most mileage is done on my Worx CX bike: separate road and CX wheels - both with tubes. Much more fun to ride.
So why did I go for tubeless on the tri bike? Thinking was that any flat on a triathlon event is pretty much bound to ruin your day. And to be fair I've never had a flat on an event.
But.
Tubeless doesn't really seem to suit infrequent use. I mean the tyres need inflating every few weeks. And they seem to go flat randomly. After changing a cassette!? Which isn't terribly reassuring. And they aren't cheap to maintain. I just ordered two new valves - £9 each!

Quick question: Does the rim tape degrade with time? One failed on mine shortly after buying them. Phil Corely were great and sorted it out for me. Been ok since. If I'm resealing them should I change the tape?

guadzilla

A tubeless story - inspired by some of the comments here, I figured might as well learn to work with tubeless. The rear wheel on my Cervelo (CL50s with Specialized RapidAir Turbo 26c tires) wasnt holding air all that well, and it's been 3 months since the bike shop added sealant, so i decided to top it up myself.

Started with the valve at 6, removed the core and immediately, sealant started burping out of the valve (bike was on the ground - my stand is at my other residen ce and i have yet to move it over). So i rotated the wheel so the valve was at 8, and that helped. Used a tube and added a couple of glugs of sealant. Replaced the valve core, put the valve at 12 and tried to pump. After about 10-15 psi, the wheel refused to hold air. Trouble shooting, i could see that the problem was with the air coming out of the water drainage hole on the side of the rim. Asking a friend, i was told that perhaps the rim tape has been moved. Pushing the tire aside and looking at the tape, it seemed more or less ok. After much cursing, I decided to put the valve at 6 and pump - lo and behold, it worked. The tire snapped into place at 70psi and all seemed good.

Next up - front tire. This time, I removed the core with the valve at 3, added a couple of glugs of sealant as before, replaced the core, moved the valve to 6 and pumped. It pumped up to 90psi but i did not hear the tire pop (there was a pop when i deflated the tube, however). Tire seems to be holding air. What does that mean - is it seated or not?

noodle soup

you should be able to tell by looking at it.

guadzilla

Looks all right to me- seems to sit tight against the rim and all, and has been holding air well, with no hisses or leaks. Were it a clincher or tubular, I wouldnt give it a second thought.

But i dont know what I dont know w/r/t tubeless: in this case, not sure if there is a way the tire can appear to be sitting properly, but the tire beads are not in fact seated properly.

WhyFi

Look for the witness line all the way around the tire. If you can see it and it's evenly spaced relative to the edge of the rim, you should be good.

But back to the 'pop' when letting the air out - are you thinking that they're coming unseated when you deflate? Did you confirm? That would make me uneasy, if the beads are coming off.

guadzilla

Yup, checked the tire edge and it looks evenly spaced - so i guess it is indeed seated.

Re the pop - no, i dont know if they actually unseated or not. I just heard the pop when i let the air out entirely and assumed that meant that the tire had gotten unseated - although it did not pop when i inflated it and it is properly seated, so i could be wrong.

Can it make that pop/cracking sound and NOT unseat? Because you are right - now that i think about the implications, the idea of it unseating if there is no air is a bit worrying.

WhyFi

A gentle pop or two, without unseating, isn't unusual. By contrast, when mine seat, they make a couple gentle pops and then a very distinct, and much louder 'crack!' Hard to mistake that.

guadzilla

Hah, now i am not sure what that was - a pop or a crack. If i had to guess, it was a moderately loud pop (shorter sound than what I imagine a crack sounds like). I am gonna take solace in the fact that if it didnt make a corresponding pop or crack when being inflated but has sealed up ok, it probably did not de-seat entirely.

WhyFi

So, after about 300 miles, the knotted bacon strip blew out. Don't know if the cut enlarged or if it just pushed out over time, but the end result was the same. Rather than try to plug it on the roadside again, I decided to pop in a tube for the remaining 25 miles. Maybe this means that plugs aren't a great permanent solution for bigger cuts and they should just be used to get home and then internally patch. *shrug*

In any event, I think that I'll take the opportunity to retire my Hutchinson's and mount my new Schwalbe Pro 1s - I've been eager to try them out and the roads are relatively clear, now.