Please Advise! Brake Levers for Converted Road Bike (Drop to Riser Bar)
#1
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Please Advise! Brake Levers for Converted Road Bike (Drop to Riser Bar)
Hi,
New to bikes/cycling so please excuse my lack of bike knowledge or vocabulary! Looking for help with brake levers!
I have a 1985 (technically manufactured in ‘84) Nishiki Riviera road bike that I’m getting tuned up and switching out some parts since it’s a tad big (long) for me and I’d like to ride in a more upright position.
I’ve purchased an Origin8 Silver 24.5 riser bar (unable to post URL sorry) but I’m not sure what kind or brand of brake levers to get.
Looking for specific product recommendations as I’m looking to purchase ASAP but would also appreciate any advice/explanations/know how y’all are willing to share!
And this may be silly but I’d really prefer to get silver ones to match.
Pls lmk if you need any photos or specs. Not sure if it’s helpful but *I think it is 7x2 or 14 speed and stem shifters.*
Thank you!!
*edited*
New to bikes/cycling so please excuse my lack of bike knowledge or vocabulary! Looking for help with brake levers!
I have a 1985 (technically manufactured in ‘84) Nishiki Riviera road bike that I’m getting tuned up and switching out some parts since it’s a tad big (long) for me and I’d like to ride in a more upright position.
I’ve purchased an Origin8 Silver 24.5 riser bar (unable to post URL sorry) but I’m not sure what kind or brand of brake levers to get.
Looking for specific product recommendations as I’m looking to purchase ASAP but would also appreciate any advice/explanations/know how y’all are willing to share!
And this may be silly but I’d really prefer to get silver ones to match.
Pls lmk if you need any photos or specs. Not sure if it’s helpful but *I think it is 7x2 or 14 speed and stem shifters.*
Thank you!!
*edited*
Last edited by ka123; 10-08-20 at 09:07 AM. Reason: incorrect specs
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can you find an example of this bike with the same parts and share the link?
how many gears are on the rear? you can likely find a shifter set that will work if you match that. it's very likely 7 speeds. you can also use a friction shifter.
brake levers should be pretty simple. use something with a "short pull." some levers can be easily modified (it's just a setting change) between long- and short-pull actuation.
how many gears are on the rear? you can likely find a shifter set that will work if you match that. it's very likely 7 speeds. you can also use a friction shifter.
brake levers should be pretty simple. use something with a "short pull." some levers can be easily modified (it's just a setting change) between long- and short-pull actuation.
#3
Junior Member
The first considerations is what type of brakes the bike uses - caliper, cantilever, or V brake. As long as it isn't V brake you should be ok with many different options. If you need help determining which you have then google 'Sheldon Brown Rim Brakes' for a helpful link (I'm also a newb poster and can't add links yet). After that, look for levers compatible with your brake style. I've used Shimano Deore and Tektro before with good results from both brands. I also agree with the other post, you can get the combined shifter/brake lever combo if you want to upgrade from the old style friction shifters.
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Search for "flat bar road bike brake levers." They will work with your brakes, unless you for some odd reason have V brakes on a drop bar road bike.
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I have several Nishiki road bikes from that era but I'm not conversant with the Riveria. Browsing around it looks like a lower end model probably with a 6 speed freewheel and dia-compe sidepull brakes. I don't think simply installing riser bars, if they even fit, will solve the problem and put the rider in a more upright position. An alloy stem (speculation here) in a steel head is likely stuck so figure days trying to remove it for a stem that will work with the new bars. This is why a few pictures would be helpful. I don't really know what you have, how much money you have invested in the bike to date, how much money you want to put into the bike when it's all said and done and what are your performance expectations. My advice would be to stop what you are doing and get some informed advice on what you can do to this specific bike and find out the costs because the term "money pit" easily comes to mind.
To give an example I was looking at a Nishiki Custom Sport from that time frame. Really interesting because the cosmetically good condition frame itself was made by Raleigh in Japan which was done but not in high numbers. The seller wanted $85 for the bike. If I had proceeded with it, new wheels and tires, drive train, shifters and brakes, saddle and a few other goodies which would have meant even doing all the work myself a $400-500 bike which it is not worth. If the seller would have taken $15 then I would have bought it, still not sure what I would have done with it though. I probably would have stuck it in my shed and when a old pair of alloy wheels comes along, I get them. I have several sets of brakes and shifters in my stash but would need pedals and seat tube but my point is that it would be a long term project where I wait for good but low cost parts that I want to find me, not trying to put a bike together as my main machine before winter hits.
There is a sub-forum here the Classic & Vintage forum where there are lots of Nishiki fans that is a good place to start.
here is a thread to get the boilers fired up. the one under discussion i think is a 5 speed freewheel and canti brakes: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...iviera-gt.html
To give an example I was looking at a Nishiki Custom Sport from that time frame. Really interesting because the cosmetically good condition frame itself was made by Raleigh in Japan which was done but not in high numbers. The seller wanted $85 for the bike. If I had proceeded with it, new wheels and tires, drive train, shifters and brakes, saddle and a few other goodies which would have meant even doing all the work myself a $400-500 bike which it is not worth. If the seller would have taken $15 then I would have bought it, still not sure what I would have done with it though. I probably would have stuck it in my shed and when a old pair of alloy wheels comes along, I get them. I have several sets of brakes and shifters in my stash but would need pedals and seat tube but my point is that it would be a long term project where I wait for good but low cost parts that I want to find me, not trying to put a bike together as my main machine before winter hits.
There is a sub-forum here the Classic & Vintage forum where there are lots of Nishiki fans that is a good place to start.
here is a thread to get the boilers fired up. the one under discussion i think is a 5 speed freewheel and canti brakes: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...iviera-gt.html
Last edited by Thomas15; 10-06-20 at 11:07 AM.
#6
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That's quite a project for someone who is new to bikes. Also, likely to cost more than the bike is worth just for the conversion parts.
Brake levers: Road brakes, whether centerpull or sidepull, will require cantilever levers. As compared to most modern V-Brake levers, canti levers pull less cable. If you use V-Brake levers, you will find that you don't have enough 'oomph' to fully activate the brakes because of the lost leverage. The good news is, while a bit harder to find, canti levers tend to be inexpensive. Brand doesn't matter.
Shifters: Your choices are Grip Shift or trigger shifters. Are your current gears indexed (discrete clicks between each gear?) If it's not and you want indexing, you *may* have to buy a new derailleur too, as an old derailleur may not require the right amount of cable pull to work with indexing systems. Count the number of gears on the rear wheel, whether it's a freewheel or a freehub/cassette doesn't matter so much. Your shifters need to match the number of gears. One thing to look out for - SRAM makes two lines of shifters/derailleurs. Their ESP line-up is compatible only with itself. They also have Shimano-compatible gears and shifters.
Brake levers: Road brakes, whether centerpull or sidepull, will require cantilever levers. As compared to most modern V-Brake levers, canti levers pull less cable. If you use V-Brake levers, you will find that you don't have enough 'oomph' to fully activate the brakes because of the lost leverage. The good news is, while a bit harder to find, canti levers tend to be inexpensive. Brand doesn't matter.
Shifters: Your choices are Grip Shift or trigger shifters. Are your current gears indexed (discrete clicks between each gear?) If it's not and you want indexing, you *may* have to buy a new derailleur too, as an old derailleur may not require the right amount of cable pull to work with indexing systems. Count the number of gears on the rear wheel, whether it's a freewheel or a freehub/cassette doesn't matter so much. Your shifters need to match the number of gears. One thing to look out for - SRAM makes two lines of shifters/derailleurs. Their ESP line-up is compatible only with itself. They also have Shimano-compatible gears and shifters.
#7
Full Member
>> cost more than the bike is worth
Likely true, but not necessarily a problem.. the question is, when the money is spent, is it reasonable in relation to the finished bike?
The other question is of course, what's the alternative?
If this is about having and upright bike to ride; a used hybrid can often be found for around $100 -- I just bought one that had 20 years and 20 miles on it, by all appearances. Traded it to a friend for a road bike in need of work.
It all comes down to what do you want to do with it?
Likely true, but not necessarily a problem.. the question is, when the money is spent, is it reasonable in relation to the finished bike?
The other question is of course, what's the alternative?
If this is about having and upright bike to ride; a used hybrid can often be found for around $100 -- I just bought one that had 20 years and 20 miles on it, by all appearances. Traded it to a friend for a road bike in need of work.
It all comes down to what do you want to do with it?
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I have an ‘85 Schwinn road frame with touring bars. I’m using some silver Shimano R550 flat bar levers.
I have the Tektros also, but the levers on the Shimanos are smoother, while the Tektros have sharper edges and I prefer the Shimano levers.
Otto
I have the Tektros also, but the levers on the Shimanos are smoother, while the Tektros have sharper edges and I prefer the Shimano levers.
Otto
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ka123 If there is a bike co-op near you, contact them. They will help you find the parts you need and for a lot less than new. And they will help you with your project, or possibly do it for you for a small fee.
My gut tells me this is a fixie conversion, or possible a single speed, which would make the project fairly easy...unless there are unforeseen issues like a frozen stem as suggested above.
You may be better off buying a used, reconditioned bike at a bike co-op that fits you and selling that Nishki.
My gut tells me this is a fixie conversion, or possible a single speed, which would make the project fairly easy...unless there are unforeseen issues like a frozen stem as suggested above.
You may be better off buying a used, reconditioned bike at a bike co-op that fits you and selling that Nishki.
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Thomas15 I believe you are mistaken that riser bars on an old road bike will not necessarily make for an upright position.. Road bikes and other bikes designed for drop bars are almost universally equipped with a shorter top tube than a comparable muntain bike or other bike designed around flat bars. My experience has been that drop-flat/riser bar conversions almost always result in a very upright position. IF the bike fit the rider well with drops, it will be almost too upright with risers.
For brake levers, you need any lever compatible with road or cantilever (mountain) brakes. Most modern levers for flat bars are intended to be used with long-pull V brakes or disc brakes. Using long-pull levers with the brakes that came on your old road bike will give you very weak brakes that require lots of effort to actuate.
Any friction shifter will work. mack_turtle says try to find an indexed shifter with the correct number of speeds, but I don't think this will work well - your rear derailleur would need to be designed for use in an indexed system, and this is not likely the case on your 1985 bike.
For brake levers, you need any lever compatible with road or cantilever (mountain) brakes. Most modern levers for flat bars are intended to be used with long-pull V brakes or disc brakes. Using long-pull levers with the brakes that came on your old road bike will give you very weak brakes that require lots of effort to actuate.
Any friction shifter will work. mack_turtle says try to find an indexed shifter with the correct number of speeds, but I don't think this will work well - your rear derailleur would need to be designed for use in an indexed system, and this is not likely the case on your 1985 bike.
#12
Full Member
First, congratulations. I've done dozens of these conversions and the resulting bike riding position has always been better than the drop bars, particularly if you want a bike for city or commuter use.As previously stated you need road or cantilever brakes, NOT v-brake, long pull or linear pull.
These levers will work and are silver/black too.Cheaper ones are all-black.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOUNTAIN-BI...IAAOSwUfNXSGmN
You will also need cables (get both inner and outer cables) that suit bmx/mtb bikes. As you have stem shifters you do not need to worry about getting new shifters.
You may need grips too so look for any mtb or bmx grips for 22.2 (7/8") bars. Grips that are "lock-on" cost more but never come loose.
These levers will work and are silver/black too.Cheaper ones are all-black.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOUNTAIN-BI...IAAOSwUfNXSGmN
You will also need cables (get both inner and outer cables) that suit bmx/mtb bikes. As you have stem shifters you do not need to worry about getting new shifters.
You may need grips too so look for any mtb or bmx grips for 22.2 (7/8") bars. Grips that are "lock-on" cost more but never come loose.
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Check the Velo Orange site. They normally have parts for projects like this. Inventory may be a problem just like everyone else right now.
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For these situations, I like the Tektro FL750
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can you find an example of this bike with the same parts and share the link?
how many gears are on the rear? you can likely find a shifter set that will work if you match that. it's very likely 7 speeds. you can also use a friction shifter.
brake levers should be pretty simple. use something with a "short pull." some levers can be easily modified (it's just a setting change) between long- and short-pull actuation.
how many gears are on the rear? you can likely find a shifter set that will work if you match that. it's very likely 7 speeds. you can also use a friction shifter.
brake levers should be pretty simple. use something with a "short pull." some levers can be easily modified (it's just a setting change) between long- and short-pull actuation.
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The first considerations is what type of brakes the bike uses - caliper, cantilever, or V brake. As long as it isn't V brake you should be ok with many different options. If you need help determining which you have then google 'Sheldon Brown Rim Brakes' for a helpful link (I'm also a newb poster and can't add links yet). After that, look for levers compatible with your brake style. I've used Shimano Deore and Tektro before with good results from both brands. I also agree with the other post, you can get the combined shifter/brake lever combo if you want to upgrade from the old style friction shifters.
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Hi! I cannot post any links since I’m a new user but I will try to find a creative way around this/post photos if you’re curious/interested. I mentioned the gears because I wasn’t sure if that would be helpful, but I’m not looking for a shifter set—just brake levers. I think it is a 3 speed?? Thanks!
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First, thanks everyone for your replies! I'm limited to 5 posts/24 hours so this may be a bit long...
1. I've attached a few photos of my actual bike which seems to have all original parts except the seat. sorry they are rotated funny and also not very good (i don't have it with my right now so I can't take better photos).
2. Literally just found photos of what seems to be the same bike (looks like it was posted in 2017 but I had not been able to find until today). Check it out by removing the spaces: flickr. com/ photos/ goodgnus/ albums / 72157677091037861/ Hopefully I can get mine looking almost as good!
@mack_turtle see above. I think no to IGH as it has derailleurs? Looks like The Bicycle Cellar on Facebook is selling this bike used (looks exactly like the Flickr one actually) and their description is that it is "2x6 friction shifting on the stem."
@Thomas15 thanks for the detailed response. please see points 1 and 2 and my reply to mack_turtle above for details..
@BlazingPedals I found a handlebar that works with the stem and simply need the right type of brake levers (and a tune up, switch out the saddle..) what are you anticipating being a big project or very expensive? the bike shop said they can configure the cables/brakes for cheap since it's part of the tune-up.
@BobbyG unfortunately the local bike shops are completely booked and i have only been able to get an appointment at my local REI. Didn't think of contacting the local co-ops for parts though--thanks. anyway, i'm trying to learn what i can and save some money where possible by doing simple stuff myself (e.g. switching out the seat, handlebars, grips) and having them do the complicated stuff and check my work.
@ClydeClydeson makes sense. re shifters, see my note to @mack_turtle above; leaving shifters as-is for now. thx!
@ofajen @blakcloud appreciate the recommendation and explaining the difference/reason for preference.
@bluehills3149 Thanks so much! I'm pretty confident the riser bar is the right move for me. My bf is doing the same conversion on his bike but his came with the correct brake levers already and he's not working with a vintage frame that's "too big." I was told by REI Co-Op that the cables on there right now are in good shape and should be plenty long and will be adjusted accordingly during the tune up after I've selected brake levers. Re grips, I was just going to get some OURY grips for now...
1. I've attached a few photos of my actual bike which seems to have all original parts except the seat. sorry they are rotated funny and also not very good (i don't have it with my right now so I can't take better photos).
2. Literally just found photos of what seems to be the same bike (looks like it was posted in 2017 but I had not been able to find until today). Check it out by removing the spaces: flickr. com/ photos/ goodgnus/ albums / 72157677091037861/ Hopefully I can get mine looking almost as good!
@mack_turtle see above. I think no to IGH as it has derailleurs? Looks like The Bicycle Cellar on Facebook is selling this bike used (looks exactly like the Flickr one actually) and their description is that it is "2x6 friction shifting on the stem."
@Thomas15 thanks for the detailed response. please see points 1 and 2 and my reply to mack_turtle above for details..
@BlazingPedals I found a handlebar that works with the stem and simply need the right type of brake levers (and a tune up, switch out the saddle..) what are you anticipating being a big project or very expensive? the bike shop said they can configure the cables/brakes for cheap since it's part of the tune-up.
@BobbyG unfortunately the local bike shops are completely booked and i have only been able to get an appointment at my local REI. Didn't think of contacting the local co-ops for parts though--thanks. anyway, i'm trying to learn what i can and save some money where possible by doing simple stuff myself (e.g. switching out the seat, handlebars, grips) and having them do the complicated stuff and check my work.
@ClydeClydeson makes sense. re shifters, see my note to @mack_turtle above; leaving shifters as-is for now. thx!
@ofajen @blakcloud appreciate the recommendation and explaining the difference/reason for preference.
@bluehills3149 Thanks so much! I'm pretty confident the riser bar is the right move for me. My bf is doing the same conversion on his bike but his came with the correct brake levers already and he's not working with a vintage frame that's "too big." I was told by REI Co-Op that the cables on there right now are in good shape and should be plenty long and will be adjusted accordingly during the tune up after I've selected brake levers. Re grips, I was just going to get some OURY grips for now...
#19
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I'm going to call that a 14 speed - 7x2. Definitely not a 3-speed. The good news is that the stem shifters don't have to change.
#20
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ka123,
This is a nice bike. As mentioned I have a few Nishiki's from that era, one of them is a 1986 Sport. This looks similar but a slightly better bicycle. The stem shifters suggest more of a casual bike than the Olympic, which I also have and it's my backup road bike and gets ridden probably about 1000 miles a year. The Olympic has downtube shifters and 700 cm wheels, your appear to be 27" but your bike also doesn't have suicide brake levers that came with the Sport. All this to say it is in my opinion a decent bike from that time era. The fact that you have side pull brakes makes the proposed work slightly more practical.
Having said this I still think you should think long and hard about this as it will cost more than what I think the bike is worth. Speaking of suicide brake levers, here is something to consider, brake lever interrupters. This would allow you to place your hands on the top of the handlebars you already have. This is a safe alternative to the previously mentioned suicide levers and if acceptable would save you a lot of money and headaches. Here is a video on installing them https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...tail&FORM=VIRE
This is a nice bike. As mentioned I have a few Nishiki's from that era, one of them is a 1986 Sport. This looks similar but a slightly better bicycle. The stem shifters suggest more of a casual bike than the Olympic, which I also have and it's my backup road bike and gets ridden probably about 1000 miles a year. The Olympic has downtube shifters and 700 cm wheels, your appear to be 27" but your bike also doesn't have suicide brake levers that came with the Sport. All this to say it is in my opinion a decent bike from that time era. The fact that you have side pull brakes makes the proposed work slightly more practical.
Having said this I still think you should think long and hard about this as it will cost more than what I think the bike is worth. Speaking of suicide brake levers, here is something to consider, brake lever interrupters. This would allow you to place your hands on the top of the handlebars you already have. This is a safe alternative to the previously mentioned suicide levers and if acceptable would save you a lot of money and headaches. Here is a video on installing them https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...tail&FORM=VIRE
Last edited by Thomas15; 10-07-20 at 04:57 PM.
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Thomas15 I believe you are mistaken that riser bars on an old road bike will not necessarily make for an upright position.. Road bikes and other bikes designed for drop bars are almost universally equipped with a shorter top tube than a comparable muntain bike or other bike designed around flat bars. My experience has been that drop-flat/riser bar conversions almost always result in a very upright position. IF the bike fit the rider well with drops, it will be almost too upright with risers.
For brake levers, you need any lever compatible with road or cantilever (mountain) brakes. Most modern levers for flat bars are intended to be used with long-pull V brakes or disc brakes. Using long-pull levers with the brakes that came on your old road bike will give you very weak brakes that require lots of effort to actuate.
Any friction shifter will work. mack_turtle says try to find an indexed shifter with the correct number of speeds, but I don't think this will work well - your rear derailleur would need to be designed for use in an indexed system, and this is not likely the case on your 1985 bike.
For brake levers, you need any lever compatible with road or cantilever (mountain) brakes. Most modern levers for flat bars are intended to be used with long-pull V brakes or disc brakes. Using long-pull levers with the brakes that came on your old road bike will give you very weak brakes that require lots of effort to actuate.
Any friction shifter will work. mack_turtle says try to find an indexed shifter with the correct number of speeds, but I don't think this will work well - your rear derailleur would need to be designed for use in an indexed system, and this is not likely the case on your 1985 bike.
#22
Senior Member
Hi,
New to bikes/cycling so please excuse my lack of bike knowledge or vocabulary! Looking for help with brake levers!
I have a 1985 (technically manufactured in ‘84) Nishiki Riviera road bike that I’m getting tuned up and switching out some parts since it’s a tad big (long) for me and I’d like to ride in a more upright position.
I’ve purchased an Origin8 Silver 24.5 riser bar (unable to post URL sorry) but I’m not sure what kind or brand of brake levers to get.
Looking for specific product recommendations as I’m looking to purchase ASAP but would also appreciate any advice/explanations/know how y’all are willing to share!
And this may be silly but I’d really prefer to get silver ones to match.
Pls lmk if you need any photos or specs. Not sure if it’s helpful but it has 3 gears/stem shifters.
Thank you!!
New to bikes/cycling so please excuse my lack of bike knowledge or vocabulary! Looking for help with brake levers!
I have a 1985 (technically manufactured in ‘84) Nishiki Riviera road bike that I’m getting tuned up and switching out some parts since it’s a tad big (long) for me and I’d like to ride in a more upright position.
I’ve purchased an Origin8 Silver 24.5 riser bar (unable to post URL sorry) but I’m not sure what kind or brand of brake levers to get.
Looking for specific product recommendations as I’m looking to purchase ASAP but would also appreciate any advice/explanations/know how y’all are willing to share!
And this may be silly but I’d really prefer to get silver ones to match.
Pls lmk if you need any photos or specs. Not sure if it’s helpful but it has 3 gears/stem shifters.
Thank you!!
#23
Senior Member
This one has Velo- Orange brake levers & grip shift levers.
#24
Senior Member
This is one I just did about a month ago. Black foam grips, full length brake levers, 7 speed Shimano trigger shifters.
#25
Senior Member
Sorry but, I've been converting drop bar bikes to upright bars for many years. This one was really amazing. I always replace the stem with a riser type. Always replace the brake levers. It's not that difficult. It's just expensive. I usually charge between $150 to $200 for this job.
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