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Replace Drive Train on Bike Friday New World Tourist: Cost?

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Replace Drive Train on Bike Friday New World Tourist: Cost?

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Old 11-29-20, 09:49 AM
  #26  
Elbeinlaw
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Thank you 2_i !

Originally Posted by 2_i
It looks indeed like Sram Dual Drive. Aaron's Bicycle Repair in Seattle seems to specialize in gear hub overhaul and may have advice.

The part is here, but, looking at the original, the straightening should be presumably sufficient.
It is indeed an SRAM Dual Drive II--I wrote a post giving those specs but it somehow didn't get put up no the forums. Anyway, thank you for the part reference and the Aaron's Bicycle referral.

I heated the "pin" just now to get it more ductile, then used the grooves in the jaws of my bench vise to straighten it. Back to work now, but in an hour or so I'll see if I can re-insert it and hook the "gear changer box" up. Finger's crossed.

Again, thank you, everyone, for your input.
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Old 11-29-20, 10:30 AM
  #27  
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Sounds good. In the end the pin must move freely enough so that a return spring inside the hub can pull it back. The shift cable ling it out should presumably have no problem. Here is the parts catalog that has an expanded diagram of DualDrive II, including the shifter. With the Sachs origins of the system, the parts availability is apparently much better in Germany, but maybe Aaron's Repair can make up for that. Good luck!
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Old 11-29-20, 04:04 PM
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I took the pin out yesterday. Today I took it down to the shop, heated it (to make it more ductile, if that is the right word), then used pliers, a rubber hammer and my bench vise to get it almost perfectly straight. Screwed it in and VOILA! The IGH actually now shifts.

Um ... only into the medium range and the high range. But that probably means that I have an adjustment problem, not the problem I was having before. I don't exactly know how to adjust it, but that will be the easy part. I mean, what cold possibly go wrong?

Along the way I also found the SRAM technical manual. It's here, if anyone needs it: https://cdn.sram.com/sites/default/f...glish-reva.pdf

Again, many many thanks for your help.
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Old 11-29-20, 04:32 PM
  #29  
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If you get two gears only, the cable tension is too high or too low. If you can move the shifter over 2 positions only, then the tension is too high/cable stretch is too short. If you can move the shifter over 3 positions, but get only 2 gears as an outcome, the tension is too low/cable stretch is too long.
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Old 11-30-20, 04:29 AM
  #30  
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Just what I needed

Originally Posted by 2_i
If you get two gears only, the cable tension is too high or too low. If you can move the shifter over 2 positions only, then the tension is too high/cable stretch is too short. If you can move the shifter over 3 positions, but get only 2 gears as an outcome, the tension is too low/cable stretch is too long.
Thanks! This was just the information I needed. I was going to just go out to the shop and stare at it to figure it out. If that didn't work, I would have succeeded eventually, using the classic technique of trial and error. And if that didn't work, then I was going to use the more advanced technique and kick it while cursing loudly.

I'm somewhat chagrined that six months ago, I bought a new bicycle repair and adjustment manual--which was smart, given that all this technology is new to me--but stupidly threw out my 40 year old Glenn's. The old one had a section about internally geared hubs: I remember because I always passed it by while wondering, "Who will ever need that now'days?" Ha! And my wife wonders why I "never throw things away."
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Old 11-30-20, 06:04 AM
  #31  
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The shift pin is the weak point of the DualDrive. Also, spares are really cheap, but extremely difficult to find (or at least were when I was looking for one back in 2014).

I finally got hold of one for 5€. I have never had to use it, but I like having spares for weak parts, especially if they're hard to find in stock.
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