What is the gearing on your bike?
#76
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Not really, the point of gearing is to stay at optimal cadence, but not necessarily no matter how fast you are going. My optimal cadence doing downhill is zero - it's called tuck and coast. VERY few people can push a 50-11 on level ground for any length of time unless they are at an inefficient cadence and thus not going very fast. By going to a higher top gear than is practical one gives up finer adjustments in the range one rides the most, therefore defeating the "whole point of gears."
Even if a cyclist likes to pedal when travelling downhill at speeds above 30 mph, the percentage of time a recreational cyclist is maintaining that speed is probably less than 1%. The amount of time a recreational cyclist spends in the 3 to 30mph range is more than 99%, and gearing needs to cover that range with a 40 to 100rpm cadence.
This data shows cycling speeds up to 47.6mph. But the amount of time traveling at speeds greater than 30mph is not significant.
https://connect.garmin.com/activity/356683768
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When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 10-12-14 at 10:02 AM.
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A large drop or increase in speed of 5 mph or more provides the ideal opportunity for shifting a 50 & 34 compact double. On hilly routes, the large change in cadence when down shifting a compact double is sometimes welcome, especially when beginning a climb after a fast descent.
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I'm really getting used to my 53 / 34 as of late. Doing a lot more riding and yesterday I finally got over the "hill of death" route I have been trying to ride for a month now. What really helped was cranking hard on the rolling hills on the down slope and shifting down to get up them quickly on the other side. This was a little standing peddling and the hills now take a lot less time and effort. Some of the steep hills I still crawl at 5mph, but I am getting stronger and noticed a slight increase to 6 / 6.5 for a couple of hills so I'm sticking with the gear set.
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When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
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Nexus 8spd (SG-8R31) IGH:
Gear Ratio, total difference: 3.07
Gear Ratio 1: 0.527
Gear Ratio 2: 0.644
Gear Ratio 3: 0.748
Gear Ratio 4: 0.851
Gear Ratio 5: 1.0
Gear Ratio 6: 1.223
Gear Ratio 7: 1.419
Gear Ratio 8: 1.615
20T ring out back, on the hub.
42T chainring up front, single.
I find that it's a nice range for moderate to easier hills, sufficiently low-geared to deal with the hills (with my strength) yet sufficiently quick for the flats. Might prefer the Alfine 11spd or the Rohloff 14spd gearing, but the Nexus-8 is fine.
Gear Ratio, total difference: 3.07
Gear Ratio 1: 0.527
Gear Ratio 2: 0.644
Gear Ratio 3: 0.748
Gear Ratio 4: 0.851
Gear Ratio 5: 1.0
Gear Ratio 6: 1.223
Gear Ratio 7: 1.419
Gear Ratio 8: 1.615
20T ring out back, on the hub.
42T chainring up front, single.
I find that it's a nice range for moderate to easier hills, sufficiently low-geared to deal with the hills (with my strength) yet sufficiently quick for the flats. Might prefer the Alfine 11spd or the Rohloff 14spd gearing, but the Nexus-8 is fine.
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Nexus 8spd (SG-8R31) IGH:
I find that it's a nice range for moderate to easier hills, sufficiently low-geared to deal with the hills (with my strength) yet sufficiently quick for the flats. Might prefer the Alfine 11spd or the Rohloff 14spd gearing, but the Nexus-8 is fine.
I find that it's a nice range for moderate to easier hills, sufficiently low-geared to deal with the hills (with my strength) yet sufficiently quick for the flats. Might prefer the Alfine 11spd or the Rohloff 14spd gearing, but the Nexus-8 is fine.
also, do you use a chain or belt? What are the pro's and con's?
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Constantly rolling terrain is a great application for a compact double. When speeds are constantly changing in the 10 to 33 mph range, a compact double and an 11-28 cassette is ideal. The bigger changes in cadence are welcome and tight gearing loses it's advantage when cresting a hill or beginning a climb.
Climb a half mile or so at 12mph, descend at 40 mph, wash, rinse repeat.
50 tooth chainring on all the downs. 36 tooth chainring on all the ups.
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For folks that are interested, I wrote up my impressions of SRAM's Force 22 drivetrain, which you can read here. Currently testing the Rival 22 group, but won't have that review completely for a month or two.
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Not really, the point of gearing is to stay at optimal cadence, but not necessarily no matter how fast you are going. My optimal cadence doing downhill is zero - it's called tuck and coast. VERY few people can push a 50-11 on level ground for any length of time unless they are at an inefficient cadence and thus not going very fast. By going to a higher top gear than is practical one gives up finer adjustments in the range one rides the most, therefore defeating the "whole point of gears."
My Saturday ride was a perfect example of why big gears are needed. We road from 734 at 1431 to Andice into a headwind.
It took a little longer than expected so on the return, I told my friends I had to get home to go to my daughter's band competition. So from 2338 back to 1431 I rode at 25 - 38 except for a couple of big climbs dropping down to the low teens. I was using 11, 12, and 13 for most of that return trip. That's 15 miles of going fast where you are suggesting I should have just coasted. I'm certainly no pro racer, just an average cyclist but I can assure you my cadence was 90 +/- 10 and not inefficient.
Riding out and back into strong headwinds is a very normal condition on lots of rides and with a little effort mid 30 speeds are very achievable. I guess some people just automatically stop pedaling when they see something greater than 20 on the speedometer.
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I have no idea what you mean about only being able to pedal at an inefficient cadence.
My Saturday ride was a perfect example of why big gears are needed. We road from 734 at 1431 to Andice into a headwind.
It took a little longer than expected so on the return, I told my friends I had to get home to go to my daughter's band competition. So from 2338 back to 1431 I rode at 25 - 38 except for a couple of big climbs dropping down to the low teens. I was using 11, 12, and 13 for most of that return trip. That's 15 miles of going fast where you are suggesting I should have just coasted. I'm certainly no pro racer, just an average cyclist but I can assure you my cadence was 90 +/- 10 and not inefficient.
Riding out and back into strong headwinds is a very normal condition on lots of rides and with a little effort mid 30 speeds are very achievable. I guess some people just automatically stop pedaling when they see something greater than 20 on the speedometer.
My Saturday ride was a perfect example of why big gears are needed. We road from 734 at 1431 to Andice into a headwind.
It took a little longer than expected so on the return, I told my friends I had to get home to go to my daughter's band competition. So from 2338 back to 1431 I rode at 25 - 38 except for a couple of big climbs dropping down to the low teens. I was using 11, 12, and 13 for most of that return trip. That's 15 miles of going fast where you are suggesting I should have just coasted. I'm certainly no pro racer, just an average cyclist but I can assure you my cadence was 90 +/- 10 and not inefficient.
Riding out and back into strong headwinds is a very normal condition on lots of rides and with a little effort mid 30 speeds are very achievable. I guess some people just automatically stop pedaling when they see something greater than 20 on the speedometer.
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Tripple front 28/38/48 and 7 speed rear 12-34
Perfect combination for me. Great for going up or down hills....easy up, or speedy down lol
Perfect combination for me. Great for going up or down hills....easy up, or speedy down lol
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Depends. If I'm going to ride 300-400km in a day (as you would in a fleche etc) then no I don't pedal downhill. Simply put I need that energy later. If I'm commuting and just want to get home? Sure I'll push the big/small ring combo as fast as my legs will allow me and get home. Makes it a little safer on 6 lane roads as you are closer to the speed of the traffic.
Calculator is your friend when it comes to creating some BS stories that some may actually believe in it. I can't wait for another amazing story from you buddy.
Last edited by lopek77; 01-09-15 at 09:37 AM.
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300-400 miles in a day on "Nothing amazing... cheap old 21 speed mtb" ? If that's true - I'm amazed and happy for you, but sadly I will call it BS. You should try Tour De France...there is no way you can't win that... You are much faster on your old 21 speed bike, than any road biker I have ever seen... Oh wait... Maybe mtb means "Motor Turbo Bicycle" in Korea?
Calculator is your friend when it comes to creating some BS stories that some may actually believe in it. I can't wait for another amazing story from you buddy.
Calculator is your friend when it comes to creating some BS stories that some may actually believe in it. I can't wait for another amazing story from you buddy.
I with you on this one. Total BS. To do 400km in a day one would have to average 30km an hour for 13 hours. I think even the pros would have a struggle with that.
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300 km is less than 200 miles, and there are plenty of non-professional people who ride 200 miles in one day. A 200 mile ride is called a 'double century'. I was having beer and wings last night with a chap who does an annual early season (in my opinion) double century ride in Southern Ontario...
https://www.tbn.ca/hairshirt
In my experience, it doesn't take a super-human amount of fitness or strength to ride super long distances - if you know how to pace yourself, the primary hurdle is saddle pain.
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My Gearing
I have two bikes - a road/touring and a mountain bike.
My road/touring bike has an mtb crank with 44-32-22 rings and a 12-25 cassette. Very low gearing, I know, but I run wide tires and often take dirt and gravel routes on my 'road' rides.
My mtb is full rigid and I do real mtb rides on it - IMO, you can ride a rigid bike anywhere you can ride a full suspension bike, but you can't ride as fast. Accordingly, the gearing is a Shimano Alfine 8 speed hub with a 32/22 combo. Shimano recommends a 1.9:1 input ratio for the Alfine, but my gearing is a 1.4:1 IIRC, which according to x-perts on the interwebs should have my bike spitting out broken sun gears and pawls with every pedal stroke. I weigh between 240 and 260 lbs and use 180mm cranks.
I have two bikes - a road/touring and a mountain bike.
My road/touring bike has an mtb crank with 44-32-22 rings and a 12-25 cassette. Very low gearing, I know, but I run wide tires and often take dirt and gravel routes on my 'road' rides.
My mtb is full rigid and I do real mtb rides on it - IMO, you can ride a rigid bike anywhere you can ride a full suspension bike, but you can't ride as fast. Accordingly, the gearing is a Shimano Alfine 8 speed hub with a 32/22 combo. Shimano recommends a 1.9:1 input ratio for the Alfine, but my gearing is a 1.4:1 IIRC, which according to x-perts on the interwebs should have my bike spitting out broken sun gears and pawls with every pedal stroke. I weigh between 240 and 260 lbs and use 180mm cranks.
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He said 300-400 km in one day, not miles.
300 km is less than 200 miles, and there are plenty of non-professional people who ride 200 miles in one day. A 200 mile ride is called a 'double century'. I was having beer and wings last night with a chap who does an annual early season (in my opinion) double century ride in Southern Ontario...
https://www.tbn.ca/hairshirt
In my experience, it doesn't take a super-human amount of fitness or strength to ride super long distances - if you know how to pace yourself, the primary hurdle is saddle pain.
300 km is less than 200 miles, and there are plenty of non-professional people who ride 200 miles in one day. A 200 mile ride is called a 'double century'. I was having beer and wings last night with a chap who does an annual early season (in my opinion) double century ride in Southern Ontario...
https://www.tbn.ca/hairshirt
In my experience, it doesn't take a super-human amount of fitness or strength to ride super long distances - if you know how to pace yourself, the primary hurdle is saddle pain.
#91
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Personally, I really like the double + wide range setup -- I do occasionally get chainsuck if I shift into a small-small combination (which I sometimes do coming up to a stop sign on flat or downhill ground when going fast). The 34/36 combination will let me climb almost anything when fresh, and a lot of things after riding for 12+ hours.
#92
aka Phil Jungels
I still think that the best drivetrain is a 50-40-30, with an 11-32, or 11-34 cog...... Gears for just about any situation, and you would spend most of your time in the middle of everything..........
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He said 300-400 km in one day, not miles.
300 km is less than 200 miles, and there are plenty of non-professional people who ride 200 miles in one day. A 200 mile ride is called a 'double century'. I was having beer and wings last night with a chap who does an annual early season (in my opinion) double century ride in Southern Ontario...
https://www.tbn.ca/hairshirt
In my experience, it doesn't take a super-human amount of fitness or strength to ride super long distances - if you know how to pace yourself, the primary hurdle is saddle pain.
300 km is less than 200 miles, and there are plenty of non-professional people who ride 200 miles in one day. A 200 mile ride is called a 'double century'. I was having beer and wings last night with a chap who does an annual early season (in my opinion) double century ride in Southern Ontario...
https://www.tbn.ca/hairshirt
In my experience, it doesn't take a super-human amount of fitness or strength to ride super long distances - if you know how to pace yourself, the primary hurdle is saddle pain.
#94
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#95
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On a relatively flat route, 30kph (18.6mph) seems eminently doable. A professional peloton certainly moves at a much faster pace. I've averaged 24.5kph (15.1mph) for 6-8 hours/day on a 51-pound touring bike (example). While I was pretty fit at the time, I'm not an incredible athlete by any means. With a lighter bike or a flatter route, I could certainly go faster and longer.
Last edited by antimonysarah; 01-09-15 at 12:52 PM.
#96
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Mid compact on the front (52/36) and whatever I need on the back. Usually it's an 11-25 for around here. It takes a whole 10 minutes to swap a cassette and make any needed changes to the B screw. Need to do a lot of climbing I'll chuck on the 28T cassette.
EDIT: And yes, I will pedal down hills
EDIT: And yes, I will pedal down hills
Last edited by IBOHUNT; 01-09-15 at 12:09 PM.
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Fantastic thread. One of my favorites, along with the pedaling efficiency thread.
I just bought a bike with a standard compact double setup: 50/34, 12 - 30.
If I convert to a triple, will I need anything else besides the following?
-triple crank 50/39/30
-left STI triple shifter
-new front derailleur
Will I need to change the chain? It's a KMC10.
Do I need to change the front derailleur? I'm guessing yes.
I just bought a bike with a standard compact double setup: 50/34, 12 - 30.
If I convert to a triple, will I need anything else besides the following?
-triple crank 50/39/30
-left STI triple shifter
-new front derailleur
Will I need to change the chain? It's a KMC10.
Do I need to change the front derailleur? I'm guessing yes.
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Now way on the bike he said he have... 190-250 miles a day on a crappy mountain bike is plain and simple - IMPOSSIBLE
Want proof? here
I'm second in line there and enjoying it thoroughly.
Theres the cert. It is possible on just about ANY bike. Only takes willpower, fitness, and plain stubbornness. In fact, we did the last 60km of the ride uphill in less than 3 three hours after riding all day and night as one of our team members bonked so we had to pick up the pace for the last. That REALLY hurt but we did it. I'd reconsider what you call impossible.
Last edited by krobinson103; 01-09-15 at 12:55 PM.
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Which slicks? I am looking for a good set of FAST tires for my 26" bike (originally it was a mtb, but I have drops on it and only ride on the road with it, so it really isn't a mtb anymore). The best I have found is the Compass, they look great and come with a great (big) price tag of $57. I two sets, both me and my wife. I would love to find a less expensive option, if it exists. My requirements:
I know that $57 is not super expensive, but... if there are equally good for less
P.S. I could see you riding for 24 hours to go 360km, personally. I am guessing you are not 5'2" and only 100lb, might be hard for such a small light person, lacking the muscle mass as someone like me that is 6'4"/288lb.
- 26"
- fast tires
- not super expensive
I know that $57 is not super expensive, but... if there are equally good for less
P.S. I could see you riding for 24 hours to go 360km, personally. I am guessing you are not 5'2" and only 100lb, might be hard for such a small light person, lacking the muscle mass as someone like me that is 6'4"/288lb.
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Which slicks? I am looking for a good set of FAST tires for my 26" bike (originally it was a mtb, but I have drops on it and only ride on the road with it, so it really isn't a mtb anymore). The best I have found is the Compass, they look great and come with a great (big) price tag of $57. I two sets, both me and my wife. I would love to find a less expensive option, if it exists. My requirements:
I know that $57 is not super expensive, but... if there are equally good for less
P.S. I could see you riding for 24 hours to go 360km, personally. I am guessing you are not 5'2" and only 100lb, might be hard for such a small light person, lacking the muscle mass as someone like me that is 6'4"/288lb.
- 26"
- fast tires
- not super expensive
I know that $57 is not super expensive, but... if there are equally good for less
P.S. I could see you riding for 24 hours to go 360km, personally. I am guessing you are not 5'2" and only 100lb, might be hard for such a small light person, lacking the muscle mass as someone like me that is 6'4"/288lb.