Any Sears Spaceliner gurus?
#1
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Any Sears Spaceliner gurus?
I posted this in the CL thread but now I'm actually thinking about getting it myself. I believe it's a '64-'65 Deluxe and appears to be a one speed model, that doesn't look like a 2 speed hub. The seller is asking $225, and there's one on ebay in worse condition for $700. Would it be a bad idea to repaint the fenders and tank red? I can see loose wires so would it be easy to fix all the lights, horns and stuff? Would some steel wool get rid of the corrosion on the rims? What would you do with this bike?
#2
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if that bike was local to me, it would already be mine. Steel wool.does wonders for chrome.
I'm all for original paint but that paint looks bad. I'd try a wet sand and polish first or roll as is. Get it
I'm all for original paint but that paint looks bad. I'd try a wet sand and polish first or roll as is. Get it
#3
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Not a bad price for that bike!
It's unique how Sears applied trim styling that would fit in with their 1960's kitchen appliances!
To wit, from 1968:
It's unique how Sears applied trim styling that would fit in with their 1960's kitchen appliances!
To wit, from 1968:
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I wouldn't use steel wool on the chrome unless you can get every bit of the small broken strands clear of the target; any left behind would accelerate more rust. I don't see a huge rust problem with the chrome parts in your photos. I would use aluminum foil with water or vinegar to clean that up.
The fork ends give you the information for the tank and rack paint color, and I agree that those parts may need a repaint. I would not paint anything that was originally chromed.
That's my opinion, but it is your bike.
The fork ends give you the information for the tank and rack paint color, and I agree that those parts may need a repaint. I would not paint anything that was originally chromed.
That's my opinion, but it is your bike.
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...make sure you take along D cells to test out the horn, lights, and radio. NO radio ?
...make sure you take along D cells to test out the horn, lights, and radio. NO radio ?
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...also, there's something very strange going on with that headset.
...also, there's something very strange going on with that headset.
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I wouldn't use steel wool on the chrome unless you can get every bit of the small broken strands clear of the target; any left behind would accelerate more rust. I don't see a huge rust problem with the chrome parts in your photos. I would use aluminum foil with water or vinegar to clean that up.
The fork ends give you the information for the tank and rack paint color, and I agree that those parts may need a repaint. I would not paint anything that was originally chromed.
That's my opinion, but it is your bike.
The fork ends give you the information for the tank and rack paint color, and I agree that those parts may need a repaint. I would not paint anything that was originally chromed.
That's my opinion, but it is your bike.
#9
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Rims may be the biggest challenge. It's a nice looking bike for tooling around on the flats, and it could look and work about like new without having to rely on outside help.
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#12
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Can confirm that is a Bendix two-speed "automatic" kickback hub (you can tell by the three red bands around it, single speed hubs only had one), and that bike is sweeeeeeet. Definitely something goofy going on with the headset though.
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That is some glorious retro future-mod rocketship awesomeness.
(...which I never thought I'd say about a Sears-branded bike, but there it is.)
(...which I never thought I'd say about a Sears-branded bike, but there it is.)
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
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Like it! Vote preservation, no paint work.
(My Sears Roebuck, 1957 :-)
[IMG]IMG_7156 by carrera247, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]class of 1957 by carrera247, on Flickr[/IMG]
(My Sears Roebuck, 1957 :-)
[IMG]IMG_7156 by carrera247, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]class of 1957 by carrera247, on Flickr[/IMG]
#15
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I'd keep it original and not paint the fenders. The painted surfaces would probably improve greatly with a good cleaning. Try Meguiars Cleaner-Wax, it has a mild polishing agent, and buffs out to a very high shine, and is excellent for bringing back the original color. For the rims and the brightwork, I'd use a very-fine, 0000-grade, steel wool. I have good results with spraying some WD-40 onto it before I start rust-removal. That bike looks like an excellent candidate for an easy restoration.
#17
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Here's what I did with the Western Strato Flyer pieces I bought. Unfortunately the tank, fenders and rack for this one were long gone. My favorite method for removing rust on chrome is a combination of bronze wool and mineral spirits, followed by Mother's chrome polish.
0605151546.jpg
0801171618.jpg
0605151546.jpg
0801171618.jpg
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Last edited by Hudson308; 10-25-17 at 06:56 AM.
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#18
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(My Capo Modell Campagnolo had a dull red finish and none of the original decals, so I splurged on a CyclArt job, and it does look great. Similarly, I had my 1996 Audi A4, which the first owner had parked outdoors, repainted at MAACO, and two years later, it still looks great. My wife's car and my other bicycles all have original paint jobs.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Revivifying a zombie thread to ask if anyone wants a project bike. If you look closely, it's a mixte; that's a split top tube right there. It would look cool even without the spacey cockpit. And no, I don't want any more project bikes.
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#20
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I see it's missing one of the harder parts to find: the clear plastic "headlight" lens. There are repops available sometimes on eBay, but here's an alternative that some guys have used.
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