Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
01-19-16, 03:48 PM
#3051
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Ontario races under a UCI license, so enforces UCI rules for track. Before each race you have to check in at bike check, they sometimes weigh the bike, they ALWAYS check the saddle and bars in a jig (takes about 30 seconds). Zero tolerance, Ive had to adjust a 3.2deg seat before, and push back a seat that was 2mm too far. Also a rollout for Jrs as they have gear restrictions.
almost all pass for mass start and sprint rules. Pursuit bars get most people the first time, people set them too long.
almost all pass for mass start and sprint rules. Pursuit bars get most people the first time, people set them too long.
01-19-16, 04:12 PM
#3052
VeloSIRraptor
Since you plan on using the trainer once you can confirm its accuracy then a Track PM could be a good thing. Not sure about the Rotor Track SRM, but be aware the SRM crankarmed Track cranks were not waterproof. Worth noting if you wanted to use outdoors in inclement weather. You can though actually change the crank arms if you want to have different lengths. My older cranks have the bolts accessible from the front and I did buy a set of 175mm arms with the intention to swap from the 170mm arms for pursuits. Since I've read a number of studies, but mostly couldn't be bothered so have stuck with the 170's for pursuiting and bunch races.
Another better valued track crank (not sure if waterproof) is the Power2Max units. Only downside IMO with the P2Max unit is you can't do a static calibration like an SRM to confirm the slope value is correct. This may not be an issue for you but I am disappointed this cannot be done otherwise they have been around a while now and I haven't heard of many issues since they started producing V2.
Another better valued track crank (not sure if waterproof) is the Power2Max units. Only downside IMO with the P2Max unit is you can't do a static calibration like an SRM to confirm the slope value is correct. This may not be an issue for you but I am disappointed this cannot be done otherwise they have been around a while now and I haven't heard of many issues since they started producing V2.
The track power2max units are fully waterproofed- I had a chat w/ them about it. The guys I know who have them and are fussy about checking their PM calibration haven't noted any issues over 3 years now - i'd say they appear to be fine WRT long-term calibration.
01-19-16, 05:49 PM
#3053
Senior Member
1.3.013 The peak of the saddle shall be a minimum of 5 cm to the rear of a vertical plane passing through the bottom bracket spindle. This restriction shall not be applied to the bicycle ridden by a rider in a sprint event on track (flying 200 m, flying lap, sprint, team sprint, keirin, 500 metres and 1 kilometre); however, in no circumstances shall the peak of the saddle extend in front of a vertical line passing through the bottom bracket spindle.
01-19-16, 05:52 PM
#3054
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Right, but the reason those saddles are manufactured is primarily to help road pros get legal tt positions.
01-19-16, 07:28 PM
#3055
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Further...
Slim sprinters have added advantages:
- They have to move less air.
- They draft much more effectively than larger riders.
- They provide much less draft for larger riders that are trailing them.
- The expend less energy throughout a tournament.
- They make less body heat (which leads to fatigue).
- They dissipate body heat much faster than if they had more muscle mass.
TRUST me. I've been on the wrong end of ALL of those before. When I race smaller guys I get NO draft whatsoever when I'm following and they get a crazy draft when they do. One of my main issues was longevity in a tournament. I'd qualify OK and my first 2 rounds would be solid, but after than, my energy fell off a cliff. I'd struggle to stay cool. Hot summer days were the worst.
Slim sprinters have added advantages:
- They have to move less air.
- They draft much more effectively than larger riders.
- They provide much less draft for larger riders that are trailing them.
- The expend less energy throughout a tournament.
- They make less body heat (which leads to fatigue).
- They dissipate body heat much faster than if they had more muscle mass.
TRUST me. I've been on the wrong end of ALL of those before. When I race smaller guys I get NO draft whatsoever when I'm following and they get a crazy draft when they do. One of my main issues was longevity in a tournament. I'd qualify OK and my first 2 rounds would be solid, but after than, my energy fell off a cliff. I'd struggle to stay cool. Hot summer days were the worst.
granted he sat up as he saw me come around him... it's all about gettin low
i've lost about 16kg since i started riding/racing 2013. not only has dropping the weight helped on the hills but also my sprint/position. my power hasn't changed but my weight has dropped. last time i had a power meter i cracked a 1590w peak with a quarq and garmin 500. 15 sec was 1008w. i'll probably never hit those numbers at the end of a race though...
i also suffer from atrophied legs from all this road riding.
sorry for posting my road stuff in the trackie forum. the road racer sub forum are a bunch of freds
Last edited by Impreza_aL; 01-19-16 at 07:38 PM.
01-19-16, 07:29 PM
#3056
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They do the extra 5mm pursuit bars for tall people, but I have not heard/seen them do anything special otherwise. Maybe ocup they give some, I wouldn't risk the drive unless you think you can fit it though. Or email them, you should get a response
01-19-16, 10:34 PM
#3057
aka mattio
but do you wanna risk it?
(you're probably fine though)
01-20-16, 04:00 AM
#3059
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Further...
Slim sprinters have added advantages:
- They have to move less air.
- They draft much more effectively than larger riders.
- They provide much less draft for larger riders that are trailing them.
- The expend less energy throughout a tournament.
- They make less body heat (which leads to fatigue).
- They dissipate body heat much faster than if they had more muscle mass.
Slim sprinters have added advantages:
- They have to move less air.
- They draft much more effectively than larger riders.
- They provide much less draft for larger riders that are trailing them.
- The expend less energy throughout a tournament.
- They make less body heat (which leads to fatigue).
- They dissipate body heat much faster than if they had more muscle mass.
01-20-16, 05:30 AM
#3060
Senior Member
Ideally nice to check the slope at least once a year, but mine have not budged so hasn't been critical. Easy enough to do though (I have a 20kg calibration weight +-4 grams I bought just for this) which offers confidence in the values from each unit.
re: SRM track - Or say, you were taking a bus/exterior car rack to the track (a big issue for racers in the Portland/Seattle/Vancouver side of track racing), seasonally it will be for others as well.
The track power2max units are fully waterproofed- I had a chat w/ them about it. The guys I know who have them and are fussy about checking their PM calibration haven't noted any issues over 3 years now - i'd say they appear to be fine WRT long-term calibration.
The track power2max units are fully waterproofed- I had a chat w/ them about it. The guys I know who have them and are fussy about checking their PM calibration haven't noted any issues over 3 years now - i'd say they appear to be fine WRT long-term calibration.
Good to know the power2max units are waterproof and have been stable, but if it did drift I do wonder what the process would be to update the unit?
01-20-16, 10:49 AM
#3061
VeloSIRraptor
01-20-16, 02:43 PM
#3062
Senior Member
Thanks. Not that I am looking right now, but if I was and couldn't find a used track SRM (which would be very likely as they rarely come up for sale) power 2max cranks would be my next pick.
01-20-16, 03:57 PM
#3064
Elitist
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I just let the clamp hold on the the bare track nut.
Do you have the problem where your axle is longer than your nut and it protrudes into the clamp? If so, just add a 2nd track nut to the end of it to cover up the axle. You'll look like you have BMX axle pegs...but it works
01-20-16, 04:52 PM
#3066
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Before you post something on eBay, don't forget about paypal fee and eBay fee.
Or you could try Craigslist and Pedalroom
Craigslist tips
-Never tell your email address(they will send you a fake invoice)
-Only accept paypal
-Check your paypal account when you receive the money
01-20-16, 05:03 PM
#3067
Elitist
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If you have a rare bike parts, I would recommend eBay.
Before you post something on eBay, don't forget about paypal fee and eBay fee.
Or you could try Craigslist and Pedalroom
Craigslist tips
-Never tell your email address(they will send you a fake invoice)
-Only accept paypal
-Check your paypal account when you receive the money
Before you post something on eBay, don't forget about paypal fee and eBay fee.
Or you could try Craigslist and Pedalroom
Craigslist tips
-Never tell your email address(they will send you a fake invoice)
-Only accept paypal
-Check your paypal account when you receive the money
I personally like craigslist. But it only works well if you live in a major city with a big enough bike scene. I like quick local sales where I don't have to deal with shipping. On the other hand, I hate CL flakers...which seem to be on the rise lately. Ebay sorta deals with that when you get your money up front.
This is the winter in the US, so it may be harder to sell things because people aren't riding as much and aren't thinking about their bike projects 'til summer.
C
01-20-16, 07:06 PM
#3068
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I have some chain rings and others in the classifieds but no hits. Also a few track based Facebook pages. Just making sure that I'm not asking too much or that I have stuff that is ****
01-20-16, 08:49 PM
#3069
Elitist
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You (an unknown seller) are asking $80 for used chainrings that can be purchased new from a reputable retailer for $88...and the retailer probably offers free shipping if the order is big enough.
Used market values are generally 50-75% of retail prices.
Last edited by carleton; 01-20-16 at 08:53 PM.
01-20-16, 08:59 PM
#3070
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Oh wow. Didn't realize that. I paid $115 for each of the chain rings. I'm not trying to make a mint just some of the money back and also hoping to get someone a ballin deal.
01-20-16, 09:06 PM
#3071
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Your prices are fair then.
Maybe post them in the trade thread here if you are willing to trade them for bike stuff that you do need. Just don't mention cash.
01-22-16, 11:24 AM
#3072
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Let's say I'm looking to run an 88 gear in. Is there any objective reason to use 49/15 instead of 46/14 or does it come down to personal preference?
01-22-16, 11:42 AM
#3073
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I'll let someone else go over the theoretical differences in drivetrain efficiency and how some people can feel a difference between nominally equivalent gearing. I use 49/15 for a nominal 88 inches because I often run 49/14, so it saves me a chainring (I don't own a 46) and keeps the chain lengths closer.
01-22-16, 01:37 PM
#3075
Senior Member
46x14 was my go to gear for a couple of seasons. I'd switch out the chain ring if I wanted a bigger gear.
I've heard that the smaller cogs aren't as efficient, but never noticed any difference.
Paul
I've heard that the smaller cogs aren't as efficient, but never noticed any difference.
Paul
