2014 Cannondale Road Tandem 2
#51
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Location: Northern CA
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Bikes: Cannondale tandems: '92 Road, '97 Mtn. Mongoose 10.9 Ti, Kelly Deluxe, Tommaso Chorus, Cdale MT2000, Schwinn Deluxe Cruiser, Torker Unicycle, among others.
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Quick update - the bike is still going strong. I just had to replace the rear disc due to it developing a crack in the braking surface. Not seen this before on a disc! A new disc and new pads front and rear will hopefully improve the braking and cut down on the squealing that we have been getting.
Otherwise everything else is mostly fine - I do need to adjust the eccentric bottom bracket which I have been putting off due the reading that it is a complete nightmare on Cannondales. I also have a new rear cassette to put on that will give us a little bit extra low and high range and hopefully cure a chain slip we get occasionally under full power.
Otherwise everything else is mostly fine - I do need to adjust the eccentric bottom bracket which I have been putting off due the reading that it is a complete nightmare on Cannondales. I also have a new rear cassette to put on that will give us a little bit extra low and high range and hopefully cure a chain slip we get occasionally under full power.
If the eccentric hasn't changed and is the wedge-type like on my '93 and '97 Cannondales, I'm assuming you're referring to the fact that the wedge gets firmly wedged into the BB shell. They don't "break free" after loosening the cinch bolt and applying rotating force to the eccentric, right? Of course it doesn't break free, the wedge is in there really tight and has to be - you're applying major pedaling forces to the eccentric, it has to be tight!
Well, there's a REALLY easy fix to dislodge it without bending the cinch bolt. First, disregard ANY advice that suggests hammering on the cinch bolt to dislodge the wedge. This will only bend or damage the long bolt, the barrel nut and/or the eccentric and frame. You'll eventually smash your frame, too, so NO hammers !
Instead, simply thread a water bottle cage bolt through the OTHER side of the eccentric as you back out the long cinch bolt. Ever notice the cinch bolt hole extends ALL the way through the eccentric body? Now you know why! But first, you have to run the bottle cage bolt through something flat with a hole in it first. (A small Park cone wrench works perfectly.) This will stop on the BB shell and brace the bolt head so you can apply force on the wedge to dislodge it. Also be sure to apply ample grease to the bolt threads and even the head. Screw the bolt into the barrel nut in the eccentric from the other side as you remove the cinch bolt from the other side. Don't just remove the cinch bolt all the way. Back it out as you screw the bottle bolt in from the other side. You want to do this so the barrel bolt doesn't accidentally rotate inside the eccentric, making it impossible to thread in any bolt from either side!
Once you've gotten the bottle bolt threaded, remove the long cinch bolt. Then tighten down the bottle bolt until the flat surface of the cone wrench stops against the BB shell. You now have a ready-made "eccentric wedge puller!" Turn the bolt until the wedge breaks free and you can now adjust your eccentric. Use a green Park pin tool for easy tension adjustment.
However, before adjusting tension, remove your custom puller and reinstall the original wedge cinch bolt - with ample grease of course! (And if you haven't had the eccentric & wedge out in a while, you should probably pull lit and slather it with waterproof grease EVERYWHERE (on the sliding surfaces of the wedge, the barrel nut, and the BB shell and wedge exterior so that it does not seize in place! This will allow for easier future adjustments.) Now with the wedge bolt threaded back in place, you can make tension adjustments and lightly cinch the bolt to hold that position to check chain deflection. Then tighten it down firmly, wipe off the grease that has oozed out and you're off to the races!
I hope this advice helps you and everyone else out there with wedge eccentrics.
#52
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Swiss Toni last name
I am trying to Swiss Toni's last name so I can log in and see his Cannondale tandem cable routing pictures on the google photo account he has set up. The hint for the password is "last name". Thanks.
#53
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#54
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Thanks!!! I was not sure if you were still active on this forum.
After viewing your photos, your 2014 tandem has a different BB cable guide than mine. I have the rear shift cable inner routed through the little disc.
I purchased a new old stock 2012 in 2017 to ride with my kids and absolutely love it. I have the crappy rear shifting problem also. I did just replace the alloy 30t inner chainring with a steel 26t chainring since I also tow a baby trailer or Weehoo igo sometimes.
After viewing your photos, your 2014 tandem has a different BB cable guide than mine. I have the rear shift cable inner routed through the little disc.
I purchased a new old stock 2012 in 2017 to ride with my kids and absolutely love it. I have the crappy rear shifting problem also. I did just replace the alloy 30t inner chainring with a steel 26t chainring since I also tow a baby trailer or Weehoo igo sometimes.