Gravel Bike Project
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Gravel Bike Project
Hi all,
I'm about to build up an inexpensive gravel bike. I've got a Miyata 610 as the foundation and a well loved 105 group that I'm intending to use (I don't know generation but it's from 2003 and is a brifter set up).
I need some wheels and in the spirit of keeping costs low have found a set of Bontrager AT 750s. Seller wants $80. Understanding that these are not cutting edge stuff, am I way off base in using them in this capacity? Or should I keep looking / expand my budget?
I'm about to build up an inexpensive gravel bike. I've got a Miyata 610 as the foundation and a well loved 105 group that I'm intending to use (I don't know generation but it's from 2003 and is a brifter set up).
I need some wheels and in the spirit of keeping costs low have found a set of Bontrager AT 750s. Seller wants $80. Understanding that these are not cutting edge stuff, am I way off base in using them in this capacity? Or should I keep looking / expand my budget?
#2
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do the wheels fit the bike?
do the tires you want to use fit the wheels and the bike?
if yes and yes, then go for it.
do the tires you want to use fit the wheels and the bike?
if yes and yes, then go for it.
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Gravel wheels/tires must be tubeless, and those are not cheap. I have gotten some oldish bontrager TLR (tubeless road) off of craigslist that work well with tubeless tires.
I like your project. What size tires can you use?
I like your project. What size tires can you use?
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Hi all,
I'm about to build up an inexpensive gravel bike. I've got a Miyata 610 as the foundation and a well loved 105 group that I'm intending to use (I don't know generation but it's from 2003 and is a brifter set up).
I need some wheels and in the spirit of keeping costs low have found a set of Bontrager AT 750s. Seller wants $80. Understanding that these are not cutting edge stuff, am I way off base in using them in this capacity? Or should I keep looking / expand my budget?
I'm about to build up an inexpensive gravel bike. I've got a Miyata 610 as the foundation and a well loved 105 group that I'm intending to use (I don't know generation but it's from 2003 and is a brifter set up).
I need some wheels and in the spirit of keeping costs low have found a set of Bontrager AT 750s. Seller wants $80. Understanding that these are not cutting edge stuff, am I way off base in using them in this capacity? Or should I keep looking / expand my budget?
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The 610 has 27" wheels now. Spokes have some corrosion on them (seems strange to me, rest of bike has no rust or corrosion). My motivation on changing to a 700 is to address the spoke issue (without rebuilding the wheel myself), gain the 4mm in clearance to run a larger tire (I'm undecided on tire at this point) as well as gain tire options.
Do I really need tubeless tires?
Do I really need tubeless tires?
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Also, this is my first real end to end build. Any pitfalls to watch out for? I know the hub spacing thing (planning on the cold set). It's the first time I've ever done bottom bracket / crank work, anything there, or is it as simple as getting the right bb (which I've not researched yet).
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The 610 has 27" wheels now. Spokes have some corrosion on them (seems strange to me, rest of bike has no rust or corrosion). My motivation on changing to a 700 is to address the spoke issue (without rebuilding the wheel myself), gain the 4mm in clearance to run a larger tire (I'm undecided on tire at this point) as well as gain tire options.
Do I really need tubeless tires?
Do I really need tubeless tires?
The 610 has cantilever brakes right? Will those align to 700c wheels?
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Yes cantis, haven't lined them up yet, but crossing fingers. I'll grab a wheel off my wife's bike and check, but I assumed they would.
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I did a 27"-700c conversion, on a Trek 620 incidentally, that became my gravel-bike for a couple years. It had caliper brakes tho which I changed to long-reach.
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Obviously they don't literally have to be tubeless. I have done it, but tubes have significant drawbacks on gravel:
With tubes I have to run much higher pressure (maybe twice as high), and have a serious deterioration in traction and ride quality
With tubes I'm going to get a pinchflat sooner or later.
So yes, if you are getting wheels, do yourself a favor and get some that are tubeless compatible. That way you have a choice.
That is a cool project, you are going to have fun. switching to 700c is going to get you extra clearance as you note, and that is a big plus!!!
With tubes I have to run much higher pressure (maybe twice as high), and have a serious deterioration in traction and ride quality
With tubes I'm going to get a pinchflat sooner or later.
So yes, if you are getting wheels, do yourself a favor and get some that are tubeless compatible. That way you have a choice.
That is a cool project, you are going to have fun. switching to 700c is going to get you extra clearance as you note, and that is a big plus!!!
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This is all hinging on that fact that his cantilevers will work with 700c. I'm very very skeptical they will.
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Yeah, now I'm 2nd guessing. Front was ok, but I'm gonna check rear too. And, I was going to use a set of brakes that aren't the ones currently on the bike (I have a set of Deore on a mountain bike donor that are newer.
Might start the build before I source the wheels to remove any doubt.
Might start the build before I source the wheels to remove any doubt.
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Yeah, now I'm 2nd guessing. Front was ok, but I'm gonna check rear too. And, I was going to use a set of brakes that aren't the ones currently on the bike (I have a set of Deore on a mountain bike donor that are newer.
Might start the build before I source the wheels to remove any doubt.
Might start the build before I source the wheels to remove any doubt.
Some cantis have a lot of adjustible play and some dont. Thats the other issue. Even those thst do have height adjustment, it sometimes just results in canti brakes that pivot at too steep an angle.
But then there are examples of it workong, so there is that.
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Obviously they don't literally have to be tubeless. I have done it, but tubes have significant drawbacks on gravel:
With tubes I have to run much higher pressure (maybe twice as high), and have a serious deterioration in traction and ride quality
With tubes I'm going to get a pinchflat sooner or later.
With tubes I have to run much higher pressure (maybe twice as high), and have a serious deterioration in traction and ride quality
With tubes I'm going to get a pinchflat sooner or later.
2- while tubeless is perhaps ideal to you, it neednt be a deal killer to get out and enjoy gravel riding.
3- you need to pump the tires up 2x as much with tubes? I am 230# and ride 40mm tires at 50-60psi. I have no interest in riding them down at 25psi. I would be skeptical of any claim that 25psi is more enjoyable for comfort, better for speed, or better for handling. 50-60psi already compresses plenty for good traction, suspension, and low rolling resistance over the surface instead of deflection.
- i have yet to pop a tube in i dont know how many miles of gravel riding. Loose gravel, hardpack, washboard, crushed limestone, etc etc. Each county around me jas different maintenance and sources dufferent gravel- so basically a lot of different surfaces, but no flats while still comfortable with the psi. Sure, a flat will happen eventually- oh well- ill take a 5min break and then get back to riding.
Just doesnt seem like such a critical want for gravel riding, much less an actual need to even get started.
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I bought a gravel bike in January.... which makes me in no-way, any kind of expert.
My gravel bike came with rims that could be used tubeless. But the (stock) tires (35's) are not rated for tubeless. I have tubes. The bike came with mechanical non-hydraulic disc brakes.
To me... IMHO (only)... the bigger not too knobby tires are the number one most important feature. But 28's would likely be fine. Number two... is being able to stop those big tires. The number three... best most useful part of a gravel bike.... is it is a road bike. I like the road bike geometry.
So... IMHO.... any road bike that can be configured with decent 28's (or slightly bigger) tires, and the brakes (of any style) can stop the wheels..... you've got a winter.
I took my gravel bike out for a rain ride the other day. Knowing those big tires weren't going to slip out from under me on the wet newly paved (slippery) road... felt great. And knowing I could control (and even stop) the bike on rainy descents allowed the ride to be even more fun. I was comfortable and confident because of the bicycles configuration and accessories.
My gravel bike came with rims that could be used tubeless. But the (stock) tires (35's) are not rated for tubeless. I have tubes. The bike came with mechanical non-hydraulic disc brakes.
To me... IMHO (only)... the bigger not too knobby tires are the number one most important feature. But 28's would likely be fine. Number two... is being able to stop those big tires. The number three... best most useful part of a gravel bike.... is it is a road bike. I like the road bike geometry.
So... IMHO.... any road bike that can be configured with decent 28's (or slightly bigger) tires, and the brakes (of any style) can stop the wheels..... you've got a winter.
I took my gravel bike out for a rain ride the other day. Knowing those big tires weren't going to slip out from under me on the wet newly paved (slippery) road... felt great. And knowing I could control (and even stop) the bike on rainy descents allowed the ride to be even more fun. I was comfortable and confident because of the bicycles configuration and accessories.
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