Stem Riser Extender
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Stem Riser Extender
A friend gifted me a nice road bike but it has skinnier tires than I would like and a racier geometry.
There痴 little I can do about the tire size but I知 considering adding a riser extension.
Since I知 somewhat new to cycling I知 unsure if this is wise, are they safe, and are there issues of which I知 unaware?
Thanks
There痴 little I can do about the tire size but I知 considering adding a riser extension.
Since I知 somewhat new to cycling I知 unsure if this is wise, are they safe, and are there issues of which I知 unaware?
Thanks
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I've put them on a lot of bikes and I see a lot of bikes with them attached...they work fine and should be what you need...just consider you are likely going to have to replace all of the cables/housings as you are increasing the height of the bars...you may be lucky and won't have to but just a consideration to keep in mind.
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The answer is "It depends". If it is a recent road bike, it probably has a carbon steerer. A stem extender should not be used on a carbon steerer.
But.......you can still get a more upright stem and tilt the bars up slightly to get your position higher.
But.......you can still get a more upright stem and tilt the bars up slightly to get your position higher.
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The big issue with steerer/stem extenders is the added leverage the higher placement of the bars will exert on the top end of the steerer. This is why most carbon fork instructions restrict the use of them.
But a second issue is the added "joint/connection" between the stem and the steerer. We see so many bikes with loose stem pinch/wedge bolts with the OEM stem/steerer already. Please periodically check the various fasteners for remaining tight (in addition to any steerer cracking).
I would first explore the shape of the bars and the rise angle and reach of the stem before suggesting a riser. And, yes,, generally some or all of the control cables will need lengthening. Andy
But a second issue is the added "joint/connection" between the stem and the steerer. We see so many bikes with loose stem pinch/wedge bolts with the OEM stem/steerer already. Please periodically check the various fasteners for remaining tight (in addition to any steerer cracking).
I would first explore the shape of the bars and the rise angle and reach of the stem before suggesting a riser. And, yes,, generally some or all of the control cables will need lengthening. Andy
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They are safe and commonly used. Have one myself.
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Just like cars and guns. When used properly any tool can do it's job without issues. With improper use or neglect the results can be deadly. We are trying to make sure the OP isn't doing something that might be more dangerous than they are OK with.
One detail that I don't think has been mentioned is that some riser's have a "no stunt or off road riding" clause. Just like many of the adjustable angle stems have too. Andy
One detail that I don't think has been mentioned is that some riser's have a "no stunt or off road riding" clause. Just like many of the adjustable angle stems have too. Andy
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Just like cars and guns. When used properly any tool can do it's job without issues. With improper use or neglect the results can be deadly. We are trying to make sure the OP isn't doing something that might be more dangerous than they are OK with.
One detail that I don't think has been mentioned is that some riser's have a "no stunt or off road riding" clause. Just like many of the adjustable angle stems have too. Andy
One detail that I don't think has been mentioned is that some riser's have a "no stunt or off road riding" clause. Just like many of the adjustable angle stems have too. Andy
Do you really think someone gifted him a bike with carbon stem?
BTW, why is it everyone gets huffy about a stem extender but never preachy about wider bars? Contributes to the lever arm either way I would think.
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Pretty much almost every road bike now has a carbon steerer. Most aluminum road bikes now have a carbon fork.
Nope, not the same.
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And my ladders say I need to lose weight to use them. Same overall logic I would guess.
Do you really think someone gifted him a bike with carbon stem?
BTW, why is it everyone gets huffy about a stem extender but never preachy about wider bars? Contributes to the lever arm either way I would think.
Do you really think someone gifted him a bike with carbon stem?
BTW, why is it everyone gets huffy about a stem extender but never preachy about wider bars? Contributes to the lever arm either way I would think.
I have my doubts as to exactly how much the extender contributes to the lever arm, and would imagine it won't be an issue if it only extends it to the amount an uncut steerer would, but you can't blame members for using "better safe than sorry" as guidance for their answers.
And yes, just like your ladder, there's probably a lot of wiggle room in there. It's just risky to go in search of that limit.
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Speak for yourself. urbanknight explained it well enough.
The question is do you feel lucky? Are you going for a Darwin Award? If not, lose weight or get a heavier duty ladder.
The question is do you feel lucky? Are you going for a Darwin Award? If not, lose weight or get a heavier duty ladder.
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So if I put a torque wrench on a nut at the 12:00 position I get a different reading than if I put it at 9:00?
The torque at the pivot point is pretty easy to calculate. Many riders tend to pull up on the bars when they come out of the saddle to pump. I don't think the answer is as simple as being made out.
IDK, not to pick on anybody but I think some people need other people to tell them what is safe and what isn't.
I wonder just how fragile carbon steering posts really are. Didn't realize that "most" road bikes have carbon posts. The bike I put the riser on is steel, so by BF presumptive logic I could put a tow strap on that.
The torque at the pivot point is pretty easy to calculate. Many riders tend to pull up on the bars when they come out of the saddle to pump. I don't think the answer is as simple as being made out.
IDK, not to pick on anybody but I think some people need other people to tell them what is safe and what isn't.
I wonder just how fragile carbon steering posts really are. Didn't realize that "most" road bikes have carbon posts. The bike I put the riser on is steel, so by BF presumptive logic I could put a tow strap on that.
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So if I put a torque wrench on a nut at the 12:00 position I get a different reading than if I put it at 9:00?
The torque at the pivot point is pretty easy to calculate. Many riders tend to pull up on the bars when they come out of the saddle to pump. I don't think the answer is as simple as being made out.
IDK, not to pick on anybody but I think some people need other people to tell them what is safe and what isn't.
I wonder just how fragile carbon steering posts really are. Didn't realize that "most" road bikes have carbon posts. The bike I put the riser on is steel, so by BF presumptive logic I could put a tow strap on that.
The torque at the pivot point is pretty easy to calculate. Many riders tend to pull up on the bars when they come out of the saddle to pump. I don't think the answer is as simple as being made out.
IDK, not to pick on anybody but I think some people need other people to tell them what is safe and what isn't.
I wonder just how fragile carbon steering posts really are. Didn't realize that "most" road bikes have carbon posts. The bike I put the riser on is steel, so by BF presumptive logic I could put a tow strap on that.
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That makes sense, actually. They are still different types of forces (I'm thinking how hard your arms transfer your weight to the bars when you hit a pothole, for example, versus the power of the arms pushing and pulling), but I really have no idea what's more dangerous.
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Many Thanks
I appreciate the info but for now will abstain from adding the riser.
My gut tells me it isn稚 a good move. 😀
Thanks so much again everyone for your help.
My gut tells me it isn稚 a good move. 😀
Thanks so much again everyone for your help.
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https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/stems/...-axis-30d-stem
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And you can always get a more upright stem like this one:
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/stems/...-axis-30d-stem
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/stems/...-axis-30d-stem
Actually, that illustrates exactly the point I'm trying to make. Whether the lever is straight or turns and angles, the only thing that tries to bend the steering tube is the overall distance from the pivot point. People have a difficult time visualizing that for some reason
Thinking about this some more, adding a longer stem will have a greater impact than a stem riser. The farther one's hands are from the steering axis the greater the torque on the steering tube. Probably the greatest force the tube will endure is the downward force from a rider out on the hoods hitting a pothole. In that scenario the height of the stem doesn't matter, but the downward force times the longer lever arm increases the load on the stem.
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I think a photo of the bike along with what material the steerer tube is made of and how much higher do you want to raise the bars can help us determine if this is do-able. Also is the steerer 1", 1 1/8", threaded or no-thread headset? We're all speculating on unknowns at this point.
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I think a photo of the bike along with what material the steerer tube is made of and how much higher do you want to raise the bars can help us determine if this is do-able. Also is the steerer 1", 1 1/8", threaded or no-thread headset? We're all speculating on unknowns at this point.
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FWIW they said a higher angle stem, not longer stem.
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Mathematically it is the cross product of the force vector and the vector from the pivot point to where the force is applied. I hate posting a diagram on a site like this but maybe is will resonate with some.
Torque and Equilibrium (gsu.edu)
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No. The shape or angularity of the lever doesn't matter. All that matters is the force vector and the straight line distance from the pivot point and the force itself. the lever (stem etc) can be I, L, S or even U shaped.
Mathematically it is the cross product of the force vector and the vector from the pivot point to where the force is applied. I hate posting a diagram on a site like this but maybe is will resonate with some.
Torque and Equilibrium (gsu.edu)
Mathematically it is the cross product of the force vector and the vector from the pivot point to where the force is applied. I hate posting a diagram on a site like this but maybe is will resonate with some.
Torque and Equilibrium (gsu.edu)
If a diagram helps us understand, go for it. I'm certainly not a physicist.
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I use Satori stem riser. I wouldn't use it with carbon fiber or competition but under everyday cruiser its fine.
Last edited by Mr. 66; 09-04-23 at 10:47 AM.
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No. The shape or angularity of the lever doesn't matter. All that matters is the force vector and the straight line distance from the pivot point and the force itself. the lever (stem etc) can be I, L, S or even U shaped.
Mathematically it is the cross product of the force vector and the vector from the pivot point to where the force is applied. I hate posting a diagram on a site like this but maybe is will resonate with some.
Torque and Equilibrium (gsu.edu)
Mathematically it is the cross product of the force vector and the vector from the pivot point to where the force is applied. I hate posting a diagram on a site like this but maybe is will resonate with some.
Torque and Equilibrium (gsu.edu)
That's the problem with theories - they don't really apply if you don't understand the actual mechanics. And then you are making dumb recommendations on bike forums that could get people hurt. So maybe your ability to do basic physics has little application to actually working on bikes and giving advice?
Last edited by Kontact; 09-04-23 at 10:43 AM.
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This isn't a physics problem, it's a hardware problem. Stem risers clamp on the steerer in a different way than stems do. I have yet to see a stem riser that is approved by the riser manufacturer for carbon. They all tend to pinch at the bottom rather than clamp along the length of the exposed steerer like a stem does. And that is because the split ends shortly above the top clamping bolt, preventing the top bolt from closing the upper part of the tube the same way the bottom bolt does. Net result is that the bottom edge digs into soft carbon instead of conforming to a steel tube.
That's the problem with theories - they don't really apply if you don't understand the actual mechanics. And then you are making dumb recommendations on bike forums that could get people hurt. So maybe your ability to do basic physics has little application to actually working on bikes and giving advice?
That's the problem with theories - they don't really apply if you don't understand the actual mechanics. And then you are making dumb recommendations on bike forums that could get people hurt. So maybe your ability to do basic physics has little application to actually working on bikes and giving advice?
As to your statements, yes, real high school level physics. But a very condescending thing to say to someone trying to understand.
As for how a stem riser attaches to a stem, and if this is going to cause another apoplexy than please, just stop reading and block me, but I don't follow your reasoning. The few I have used all attach at the top of the tube in exactly the same fashion as a stem. They have a stop about an inch or two in, require spacers, have provisions for pretensioning, and clamp with two clamping bolts along the length of insertion the same as a stem. None I have used have a sharp lower edge.
found this interesting. An explanation without all the drama
I Want To Increase My Bike Handlebar Height: Are Stem Risers Safe? (easymountainbiking.com)
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