zjrog

Visually STUNNING!!!

BikeWonder

I finally finished my winter project.
1987 Bianchi Grizzly drop bar conversion. Will be using this for touring instead of my Miyata 1000. Hope you guys like it as much as I do! Put a lot of love into it.

it has a bolt on rear wheel, but that will be changing as I am on the lookout for a QR rear wheel. Overall it rides great

due ruote 

jlaw

I like the slack geometry and the teal highlights - looks like an all-day rider. What tires do you have on it?

BikeWonder

Schwalbe City Jet tires 26 x 1.90. Got them on sale for $12.99 ea at CRC. They feel cheapish, so I might upgrade soon.

bark_eater 

Very cool bike. Instead of finding a new rear wheel,
It's easy enough to swap in a quick release axle. Wheels Manufactoring has axles and cones that work for a lot of old hubs.

wrk101

Love that 970. Those higher end Trek MTBs from that era are excellent. 950, 970 or even 990. I've had a few 950s, always have an eye out for 970 or higher just for the heck of it.


On the Bianchi, it was common for even the very top models, like a Stumpjumper, to have nutted axles front and rear. It was kind of a MTB thing. Some co-ops will have replacement wheels at a really low cost. I know the one I volunteer at sells wheels cheap!

katsup

Here's my 92 Stumpjumper conversion.


However, I'll plan on changing it back as I don't see myself taking it over my other drop bar bikes. The reach just isn't as comfortable.

ryansu

RJ the bike guy has a video on doing the

ryansu

RJ the bike guy has a video on doing the

av1

Using this Scott Boulder '94 frame with flat bars since 2012 finally converted it to a drop bar.
I like it better now with deore xt 7sp thumb shifters on a pure fix 22.2 drop bar , tektro 540 brake levers and deore 48 36 26 triple to 12-28 back , deore hubs and mavic 317 rims.

NocoRider

If there is a local bike co-op (or similar) check there for used hubs. The one I volunteer at literally is awash in used hubs (yes we have buckets if 'em) as many wheels come in with bad rims so we cut out the spokes and save the hubs. (Note: all the scrap metal goes to a recycler so there's no waste) If you do decide to buy a used hub you will want to check the ball bearing size. Almost everything of that era used the same size balls but there's always that one...

Another option is to go to a thrift store and buy an old 15mm wrench and cut the handle down so it'll fit in your saddle bag. Wheels with bolts seldom get stolen, I can't say the same for quick release wheels.

There are many "standards" for axle threads so if you want to reuse the original cones be sure to bring the originals to make sure you get the appropriate axle thread.

Cheers,
Greg

OrkneyDullard

I like it! A very no-nonsense bike. Do you have any images of how the shifters are mounted?

av1

Thanks, shifters are mtb diameter 22.2mm mounted on a pure fix drop bar with standard 25.4mm stem clamp diameter and 22.2mm brake clamp diameter https://purecycles.eu/collections/pa...-fix-drop-bars

SergioMath

Good evening everyone!

I just created an account because reading through the posts (all the way since 2012), has inspired me to show you my project. I've deeply enjoyed the pictures and stories you've posted.
This used to be my dad's MTB bike. He loved it, but for many years, it has been neglected to the garage. While it was there, it was exposed to years to a leak that came from the pipes that drained the water from the terrace (apartment, not house), so it has built up a layer of calcite that ruined the paintjob. At the time of this post, it is being re-painted to stock conditions.
Now, for the parts, most of it is just a mishmash of parts I had lying around. Given that I'm more of a track/road cyclist, most of the parts are from old road bikes I've had. The idea is for this to have a more modern stance (I ride with really low bars (and no, my back is just fine)) but with the amazing geometry of this '90s Giant ATX 770.
The seatpost was seized at the time this picture was taken. It has since been fixed (it only took months, tons of WD40, fire, a press, a soviet tank and black magic). It will be replaced by all-black hardware. Handlebars, bar tape, seat post, saddle, cranks... all black, and coming from an old road bike.
I might also source some canti brakes for good measure. Even though the V-brakes that it has are more efficient, I prefer the look of the cantis.
I live in south america and good parts are difficult to get here, but if anyone has ideas or hacks for this project, send them my way.

Thanks, and I hope you like it.

I'll post pictures when it's finished (possibly in 3 or 4 days, when I pick it up from the paintshop).

Good night!

EDIT: This doesn't let me post the pic, so I'll add it later, when I meet the required post count.

CO_Hoya 

Unshore

This is probably something I should do.

spedrunr

I love the Celeste/Blueberry/Cranberry combo frame colors

Nikola88

1991 Scott Boulder, tange cromo double butted tubes, originaly yellow-black-neonorange but now faded to crusty ochre-black-beige, it was found behind an old garage under a tarp, a little bit of surface spots but nothing too bad, there were no wheels and crankset, but everything else was there (but rusted)
So i cleaned it, dissasembled everything, used what i can, collected various parts from my parts/junk bin, i only bought chain, cables, tires/tubes and cassete,
I had a Lovemud bomber handlebar that i never could dial in on my previous bikes, now i got it just right and ohhh now i understand wheels are early '90.-s araya rims/exage hubs/stainless spokes, brakes are tektro cr720, rd is old deoreXT, shifter is shimano something thumb trigger mounted really weird for the time being but it works, levers are some old shimanos, crankset is an unknown green thing 104bcd with a narrow-wide 34t ring...
My plans are to ride it a bit and dial everything in, find a new shifter solution (maybe even friction) and when im satisfied dissasemble it, powdercoat frame and fork, clean up and polish everything up, maybe even make some repro decals as i like the old scott ones

OrkneyDullard

Brilliant. Thanks!

Nikola88

Playing around with brake lever mounted friction shifter, I have seen somewhere in this thread a similar solution, the suicide lever boss was reversed so its on the outside and a downtube shifter, with a small adapter ring that i made on a cnc mill, was fitted to it, it works and its not too clumsy, i still need to sort out the cable and when its done wrap some bar tape

tricky 

Ingenious! Pretty cool!

ironnerd

Hey all.
I got the link to this thread from a cat over in the Gravel Bike thread. Y'all have made some really nice bikes, so I think you just might be able to help me with my bike. This thread is 6,405 posts in length, and it may take me several days to read ALL of it, but I figured I would set the wheels in motion.

Let's start with what I have:

2007 Iron Horse Maverick 1.0
Wheels and Tires
Hubs: Alloy QR
Rims: Alloy w/ Brushed Sidewalls, 36-hole
Tires: 26 x 1.9 inch Continental Town and Country
Spoke Brand: 14ga. (2.0mm)

Components
Brakeset: Alloy Linear Pull brakes, Shimano EF-50 EZ Fire levers
Shift Levers: Shimano EF-50, EZ Fire
Crankset: Suntour XCC T102, 24/34/42 teeth
Pedals: Resin platform
Bottom Bracket: Sealed cartridge
Rear Cogs: 7-speed, 12 - 32 teeth
Seatpost: Alloy micro adjust
Saddle: WTB Speed V Sport SE
Handlebar: Steel Riserbar
Handlebar Stem: Steel
Headset: 1 1/8inch integrated Threadless Steel

I took the shock off long ago and replaced it with a rigid shock. The bike's mission is mainly transportation to and form work, and some pleasure rides on paved rail trails, firm packed gravel foot-paths, and roads. It's a very "Blue Collar" bike with no outstanding features.

In the past, I have run 26x1.0 tires. The bike was faster, but I was still a meat-bag air-brake due to the straight bars. I also find the flat bars uncomfortable. They were fine when it was still a MTB, but kinda blow on pavement. So I am looking to convert to drop bars.

So... If I do convert, I'll need to address the following:
1. Drop levers compatible with V-brakes.
2. Shift levers that will work with the existing derailleurs (I'll guess that normal old friction levers will work, and I can live with out the click-shifting)

It also looks like a lot of you have used a taller stem. What is the set-up on those. Level with the seat?
One more question, what size tires are you using? 26x1.0 was too thin. The ride sucked, and my pedals kept hitting in pretty shallow turns.

Thanks to you all.

Nikola88

Hi, I think the easy way to try this:

1. Tektro RL520 brake levers for v-brakes

2. Shimano SL-a050 road paddle shifters

3. Adjustable stem, so you can find your position

4. Tires Maxxis DTH

Your pedals hitting ground may be caused by installing front fork that is not suspension corrected, simply the new rigid fork is shorter and it lowered your bottom bracket

jskita

I can finally post an image!