Need flat handlebar advice
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Hmm, time for a new pump! My Park floor pump has no problem with either valve type.
The diameter of a drop handlebar where brake levers mount is 23.8mm. The diameter of flat bars is 22.2. Your cyclocross inline levers probably have a 23.8mm clamp for drop bars, too big for the 22.2 of flat bars.
As far as cable pull, there are two kinds:
-Short pull: works with cantis, sidepulls, centerpulls, u-brakes, roller-cams, and "road"-labeled disc brakes.
-Long pull (aka "linear pull" or "direct pull"): works with V-brakes and "mtb"-labeled disc brakes.
Modern Campagnolo integrated brake/shift levers are short pull but have a slightly different cable pull ratio. They will work with any short pull brake but they will work better with Campagnolo-specific brakes. For example, Paul Components short pull disc brake is offered in a regular-short pull or Campagnolo-short pull version.
The diameter of a drop handlebar where brake levers mount is 23.8mm. The diameter of flat bars is 22.2. Your cyclocross inline levers probably have a 23.8mm clamp for drop bars, too big for the 22.2 of flat bars.
As far as cable pull, there are two kinds:
-Short pull: works with cantis, sidepulls, centerpulls, u-brakes, roller-cams, and "road"-labeled disc brakes.
-Long pull (aka "linear pull" or "direct pull"): works with V-brakes and "mtb"-labeled disc brakes.
Modern Campagnolo integrated brake/shift levers are short pull but have a slightly different cable pull ratio. They will work with any short pull brake but they will work better with Campagnolo-specific brakes. For example, Paul Components short pull disc brake is offered in a regular-short pull or Campagnolo-short pull version.
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Yep. All drop bar levers, unless they are explicitly labeled otherwise, are short pull and will work with cantis. The few exceptions are the long pull drop bar levers made by Cane Creek and Tektro, which were created for the cyclocross market when some cross racers started using long pull V brakes instead of short pull cantis.
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Yep. All drop bar levers, unless they are explicitly labeled otherwise, are short pull and will work with cantis. The few exceptions are the long pull drop bar levers made by Cane Creek and Tektro, which were created for the cyclocross market when some cross racers started using long pull V brakes instead of short pull cantis.
In regards to BianchiGirl above, correct me if I'm wrong but don't flat bars significantly reduce the reach for a given stem length compared to drop bar levers? Nevermind the fact that flat bar brakes are also higher compared to old school drop bar levers that sit considerably below level with the tops of a drop bar. And don't also flat bar levers provide quite a bit more leverage/squeezing power than drop levers?
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Flat bars do reduce the reach compared to a drop bar but the wider the flat bar, the longer the effective reach, because you are splaying your arms out further to reach the grips. Most good flat bars have at least a little sweep back which helps negate this effect. Either way you'd have to get really wide to make up for the 70-130mm of reach that most drop bars have.
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Flat bars do reduce the reach compared to a drop bar but the wider the flat bar, the longer the effective reach, because you are splaying your arms out further to reach the grips. Most good flat bars have at least a little sweep back which helps negate this effect. Either way you'd have to get really wide to make up for the 70-130mm of reach that most drop bars have.
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If pulling drop bar levers from the hoods, you don't have that much leverage because you're moving the lever from near its pivot point. It's like using a long wrench but grabbing it near the jaws. Pulling the levers from the drops, on the other hand, gives you tons of leverage. On a flat bar, you are grabbing the whole length of the lever so you have good leverage.
Cantis can be very powerful if set up correctly. Some are easier to set up than others. There are more variables to adjust with a canti because you have the straddle cable position to consider. V brakes and sidepulls are usually easier to set up.
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Level of uprightness is more of a function of where the bar is, and rise. You don’t have to mount the bar really high. The sweep is effective for shortening the top tube. Unless you have a small distance to deal with.
Sample new bike with swept back bars lower than seat: https://www.bikeconnection.net/produ...c-308259-1.htm
Sample new bike with swept back bars lower than seat: https://www.bikeconnection.net/produ...c-308259-1.htm
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Cantilever brakes have more stopping power than anything except V brakes (which are cantilevers).
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Level of uprightness is more of a function of where the bar is, and rise. You don’t have to mount the bar really high. The sweep is effective for shortening the top tube. Unless you have a small distance to deal with.
Sample new bike with swept back bars lower than seat: https://www.bikeconnection.net/produ...c-308259-1.htm
Sample new bike with swept back bars lower than seat: https://www.bikeconnection.net/produ...c-308259-1.htm
Not in my experience, or anyone that I've ever talked to about cantis... hmm.
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Just thinking about it for a moment- why are bikes that are designed with a need for great stopping power (tandems and tourers) were/are generally designed with cantilevers?
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Have you tried hydro discs? I can't imagine anything having better stopping power than those.
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I didn’t realize discs were a part of this conversation.
Point is cantilever brakes have better/more stopping power than than any single pivot sidepull, only dual pivot side pull and center pull brakes have nearly the same power.
If your cantilever brakes don’t stop better than your sidepull brakes, there’s something wrong with them.
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I didn’t realize discs were a part of this conversation.
Point is cantilever brakes have better/more stopping power than than any single pivot sidepull, only dual pivot side pull and center pull brakes have nearly the same power.
If your cantilever brakes don’t stop better than your sidepull brakes, there’s something wrong with them.
Point is cantilever brakes have better/more stopping power than than any single pivot sidepull, only dual pivot side pull and center pull brakes have nearly the same power.
If your cantilever brakes don’t stop better than your sidepull brakes, there’s something wrong with them.
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IMHO and IME
Flat bars are good for mountain bikes, not that good for any thing else......the hand position is not natural anatomically. and they kill my wrists YMMV
I suggest going to some thing like the velo orrange tourist....it will give a more rearward rearch, tektro levers, and simply the shifting with thumb shifters ( all at velo orange)
Flat bars are good for mountain bikes, not that good for any thing else......the hand position is not natural anatomically. and they kill my wrists YMMV
I suggest going to some thing like the velo orrange tourist....it will give a more rearward rearch, tektro levers, and simply the shifting with thumb shifters ( all at velo orange)
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IMHO and IME
Flat bars are good for mountain bikes, not that good for any thing else......the hand position is not natural anatomically. and they kill my wrists YMMV
I suggest going to some thing like the velo orrange tourist....it will give a more rearward rearch, tektro levers, and simply the shifting with thumb shifters ( all at velo orange)
Flat bars are good for mountain bikes, not that good for any thing else......the hand position is not natural anatomically. and they kill my wrists YMMV
I suggest going to some thing like the velo orrange tourist....it will give a more rearward rearch, tektro levers, and simply the shifting with thumb shifters ( all at velo orange)
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^^^^^^ Shows how widely human anatomy / physiology varies person to person. I've always found that in a further aft position, I have much LESS ability to stand on the pedals.
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#45
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I also have a couple of steel cruiser style hanblebars. They have a bit more sweep to them than the one pictured above. Pm me if you are interested.
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Swept bars don't need to be upright. With the right stem length and height swept bars can offer a variety of hand positions, and a comfortable upright position or more aggressive aero position when needed. Flip the bars and try the path racer setup if you prefer a lower position. I did that last year for a couple of weeks but returned to the upright bar position.
Last year I switched my Univega hybrid to albatross bars and bar-end shifters. Best incarnation yet for that bike. It came with flat bars and thumb shifters. The flat bars were uncomfortable on longer rides and the thumb shifters broke. I switched to riser bars with a slight sweep and friction shifters, which were fine for a couple of years. But the Nitto albatross and bar-end shifters are keepers.
For standing to pedal, yup, it took a little practice. The balance is different if I'm holding the bar end grips, but my bike's top tube is fairly long and I added a 130mm horizontal road bike stem, which solved any minor balance problem.
To get more aero I lean into the forward curves of the albatross bar. And putting my hands over the brake clamps while standing to pedal feels pretty much like using my road bike hoods while standing to pedal -- no balance problems.
Last year I switched my Univega hybrid to albatross bars and bar-end shifters. Best incarnation yet for that bike. It came with flat bars and thumb shifters. The flat bars were uncomfortable on longer rides and the thumb shifters broke. I switched to riser bars with a slight sweep and friction shifters, which were fine for a couple of years. But the Nitto albatross and bar-end shifters are keepers.
For standing to pedal, yup, it took a little practice. The balance is different if I'm holding the bar end grips, but my bike's top tube is fairly long and I added a 130mm horizontal road bike stem, which solved any minor balance problem.
To get more aero I lean into the forward curves of the albatross bar. And putting my hands over the brake clamps while standing to pedal feels pretty much like using my road bike hoods while standing to pedal -- no balance problems.
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I put an Origin 8 Space Bar Off Road 2 with Ergon grips on my Ogre and really like them. I'm not sure if they make them in anything but 31.8 clamp diameter though.
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I do not understand this urge by some to try to make a race/road bike into a comfort cruiser. I find that a 130mm stem with a slight rise from a nineties mtb put a straight bar in a good position on a road bike. It will put the at bars about saddle hight or slightly over if the bike is of the correct size. Putting a short stem with a swept back bar on a short top tube road bike make no sense to me.