gnashedteeth

Hi all, I'm new here (so unfortunately no pics), and moderately newish to bikes in general. I rode a single-speed for a couple years, and it was nice; but a move to a hilly area has prompted me to invest in some gears.

Enter into my life my new investment: A 1973 Fuji Special Road Racer (Blue!!)

I already know the wheels are changing. The bike is on the heavy side, so those steel guys gotta go. I plan on sticking with the 27" size as my local place has a set for under $70. I'm not crazy about the levers attached to the breaks (suicide breaks, I think), I honestly thought they where shifters when I picked it up. Water bottle cage is coming off, and I'd like to find a suitable pump replacement for the existing pegs. Any advice there?

The seat has to change too, but I'm not sure where to look for answers there. It no longer has the original saddle, and instead has some gross Trek thing with springs. I looked at a couple Brooks saddles today at my local shop; but I'm not positive that's for me... Do I need to be worried about that 46 year old crank?

Once the weather breaks, I have a plan for dealing with the rust (I hope) but I'm not sure what to do about all the paint scratches. I'm an artist by trade, so is mixing up some enamel paint and doing some touch-ups a viable solution?

Thanks in advance for any input. I'm excited to bring some life back into a bike older than I am. If only spring would come to the midwest...

3speedslow

Don Buska

Sounds like a great way to break into the vintage steel road bike arena. I have nicer Japanese road bikes in my collection, but the 75 S10 I own also gets used each season. I have a photo album here so you can see what I've done. You will eventually find a saddle that suits you. I show an old Fujita saddle on my S10 rebuild pictures, but that saddle only lasted about 5 miles. I replaced it will my personal favorite from Selle Anatomica. Also, wise move on going to a 27" aluminum rim. Fuji did the same right after the 1973 year on the S10's. There are still some really nice tires available in 27" too.

Don't fret the safety brake levers. Properly adjusted they are actually pretty nice. I still have one or two bikes that use them.

Welcome to the world of vintage road bikes. Your 73 S10 is a great entry model, better than most, to get you started on the journey. It's also a great way to learn how the repack crank and wheel bearing on. Plenty of wonderful YouTube videos to assist you in those things. It's best to learn on a bike like yours, then when you move to something better down the road you'll be well versed in doing your own maintenance and upkeep.

Have Fun,
Don

gnashedteeth

Good idea. Learning to break-down and re-assemble my new toy properly is probably the best starting point. There is a community bike garage not far from my apartment, so I'll probably do most work there. Something like that sounds like an all day project?

That yellow is awesome! I'm kinda sad mine isn't an obnoxious, bright color, but the blue does have a lovely depth to it. What should I know about those safety brake levers? They seem GREAT for stopping, but they don't release the pressure from the break pads. Maybe break the housing down and hit it with some WD-40?

3speedslow

squirtdad

lot of help online also

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

Bad Lag

I only came to see the pictures. Alas,...

gnashedteeth

New cables is something I hadn't considered yet. The cable housing is intact from end to end, but it's probably still worth doing.

That's a wealth of information, thank you!

I'm getting my post count up! Once I hit 10 I'll upload the dirty bike pics; and then I can do some sexy, cleaned up ones.

3speedslow

madpogue 

^^^^^^ In addition, if those are original cables, the technology of brake/shift cables has improved... some.... since then.

Is the community bike garage just a space with tools? Or is it more people/service oriented? A lot of thse places have days/times you can come in and get assistance, and ultimately training, on repair procedures.

gnashedteeth

It has what I suspect are the origional white cable housings. As for oxidized cables, the small portion of the front that is exposed looks great. The rear, however, has some visible oxidation. As well as the metal bits that the cables exit. New housing and cables is probably a smart investment. Eventually I'm probably interested in shifter solutions as well. Without having ever used them, shifters being on the bottom tube like that seems awkward.

It's just a bike oriented space with repair and service tools. Fortunately for me, my city has a STRONG biking community, so I'm sure once the weather warms up I won't have much problem finding advice from people smarter than myself. I took the Fuji into one of my local shops before bringing it home, and the guy was nice enough to go over it and made me pretty comfortable in what I had gotten myself into. He just didn't offer any solutions that didn't involve a purchase from them. lol

ScottRyder 

The Fuji Gods are happy with your purchase. The SpecialRoad Racer is a nice frame .. it will last forever if maintained properly. I kept my '73 all original for my book but if I had to do it all over and put wider handle bars, a more elegant stem, tubular rims (yes tubular), a non steel seat post, a cool drillium Sugino crankset and most likely put some Cyclone front and rear derailleurs. The original Primus pumps aren't easy to find .. brake levers and calipers would be Gran Compe maybe?

From the book "Japanese Steel" and the 1973 Fuji catalog.

gnashedteeth

*I can't quote your images because I'm a newb*
Those levers that swoop in towards the bike, kinda under the bars! Those are the awkward break extensions (?) that I'd like to get rid of. I'm not sure what they are, but they aren't fond of not stopping.

Over time, I'd like to get as much steel off this thing as possible. I'd like it to be much lighter. I do really appreciate the vintage look, so I'll be trying to stay true to that form. The crank, breaks, seat post, and wheels are probably good places for me to cut some weight.

5 more posts and I can unveil the pics!

curbtender

Wheels and those ankle weight pedals.

ScottRyder 

Those levers are nicknamed "suicide levers", "turkey wings" .... If properly adjusted they will work pretty well. But they do add an a level of "newb" look too. I'm looking forward to seeing your photos.

Scott

Bad Lag

My first change would be to put aluminum rims on that bike. This would improve braking performance, dramatically so in wet conditions.

My second change would be to put a micro-adjustable seat post (rider comfort is very important).

The "turkey wings" have to go ASAP, too. You'll need to replace the levers or at least the modify/replace pivot barrel in the levers. When you remove the levers, you will find the barrel protrudes by an awkward-looking 1/2".

All the rubber likely needs to be changed, as will the chain and all cables.

Does it have stamped or forged drop outs?

2cam16

Hurry up with your 10 posts!

Cougrrcj

FWIW, here's my Sept '74-built '75 model year S-10S, bought new in Oct '76, as it is today...



Wheelset (by '75, the originals were alloy) have been replaced three times in the years and 50k miles since!. Crankset, seatpost and rear derailleurs replaced as well. Still wears its original brakes (new pads of course) and Fujita Belt saddle! I upgraded to SunTour barcons within a month of when I bought it new in Oct '76!

SpeedofLite 

Beautiful! That was the bike I bought in 1975, also blue. I even had a Pletscher rack and tire savers on mine too! Your photo sure brings back a lot of memories.
The saddle it came with just about killed me though. It was trying to break me in, not the other way around. Of course I rode in gym shorts back in those days.
So what happened to the original frame pump?

gnashedteeth

Wheels, breaking hardware, pedals and seat post are all now on the chopping block!

How can I tell if the drop outs are stamped or forged?

gnashedteeth

I'm working on it. Apparently there is a 5 post in 24 hours limit that's also working against me!

ScottRyder 

The dropouts are stamped on the '73. The higher end Fuji's had forged versions and were marked either YFC or Yuko Cold Forged

Scott

gnashedteeth

I'm assuming forged means they're stronger than stamped?

Cougrrcj

Just like a Brooks - you and the saddle have to come to an symbiotic agreement. I have to do it again every year - or after a prolonged 'off-season'.
I ditched that sucker right away because I'd lose so much pressure trying to unscrew the pump's hose from the valvestem. The Zefal Hp (or one of its replacements*) has been on there since early 1977 as well. *One was caught by a pants cuff and ejected sideways only to be run over by my rear wheel -- and at least two were lost/bent/rendered useless when bashing doggie noggins as they were trying to chomp down on my lower leg...

koolerb

OK, I just tried to upload pics and it didn't work. I powder coated and single speeded the one I got.