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When to Move to big ring

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Old 09-06-16, 04:17 AM
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hythamfekry
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When to Move to big ring

Hi , i have a semi-compact 52-36 crank with a 11-28 cassette ..
from your experience at which cog do you prefer to move from small to big ring and why ..
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Old 09-06-16, 04:21 AM
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seau grateau
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Usually after the second or third smallest cog on the cassette, because cross-chaining to the outermost cog causes too much chain rub on the front derailleur cage.
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Old 09-06-16, 04:40 AM
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It varies. On rolling terrain, sometimes I won't switch unless there's an extended descent, and sometimes not until I've run out of cogs. When it's flatter or I'm in a strong paceline, if it's not already there I'll typically switch up once a steady 20+ mph pace is established. Which cog that is depends on which bike I'm riding, and whether I'm in a spinning mood.
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Old 09-06-16, 05:53 AM
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I also have a 52/36. I just stay on the big ring.
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Old 09-06-16, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by memebag
I also have a 52/36. I just stay on the big ring.
Location: Houston, TX
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Old 09-06-16, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by seau grateau
Usually after the second or third smallest cog on the cassette, because cross-chaining to the outermost cog causes too much chain rub on the front derailleur cage.
You should check your setup. I only have the tiniest bit of rub on the small-small combo (Ultegra 6800 and 105 5800).

I typically use the big ring when there is a sustained faster pace. Otherwise I try to keep spinning in the small ring. In Atlanta, the next hill is never too far away...

Last edited by fa63; 09-06-16 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 09-06-16, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by redfooj
Location: Houston, TX
Hey, we have overpasses.
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Old 09-06-16, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by fa63
You should check your setup. I only have the tiniest bit of rub on the small-small combo.

I typically use the big ring when there is a sustained faster pace. Otherwise I try to keep spinning in the small ring. In Atlanta, the next hill is never too far away...
what's ur setup .. coz for me cross-chain "big ring with biggest cog" is fine , however when on small ring chain will start to rub against FD on 9th and 10th cog "small cogs"
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Old 09-06-16, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by hythamfekry
what's ur setup .. coz for me cross-chain "big ring with biggest cog" is fine , however when on small ring chain will start to rub against FD on 9th and 10th cog "small cogs"
Edited my original post as well, but I use both Ultegra 6800 and 105 5800 11-speed groupsets.
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Old 09-06-16, 06:20 AM
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hythamfekry
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Originally Posted by fa63
Edited my original post as well, but I use both Ultegra 6800 and 105 5800 11-speed groupsets.
So you don't have any rub using any of cross-chain configuration "big ring-biggest cog" or "small ring-smallest cog"
at which point do u start to have rubbing
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Old 09-06-16, 06:27 AM
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I have a compact crank with 11-32 cassette (came on the bike, will be changing), and I live on the large ring unless I'm climbing. Ultegra Di2
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Old 09-06-16, 06:55 AM
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I live in Illinois what's a small ring? and what's a hill?
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Old 09-06-16, 06:59 AM
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Depends on who I'm riding with, terrain, and average pace.
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Old 09-06-16, 07:22 AM
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Just use trimming

Originally Posted by seau grateau
Usually after the second or third smallest cog on the cassette, because cross-chaining to the outermost cog causes too much chain rub on the front derailleur cage.
Even the most basic STI has good enough trimming to prevent chain rub.
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Old 09-06-16, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Inpd
Even the most basic STI has good enough trimming to prevent chain rub.
i got rub problem when using small ring with last 2 small cogs
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Old 09-06-16, 07:52 AM
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It depends on terrain and strength, of course, but I would imagine that for performance riding, it's better to think the other way around: "when do I drop to small ring?"

On flat and rolling terrain, I'm unaccustomed to seeing anyone I ride with in the small ring, which is usually reserved for climbing efforts and maybe very easy recovery rides.

Running higher up the cassette with the big ring seems better suited to what is more likely to happen, too, namely that things will heat up and get faster than a 52x21, so it's easier, faster and more efficient to drop to smaller cogs than to run down to the bottom two with the small ring and have to make the bigger jump up to the big ring.
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Old 09-06-16, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by chaadster
It depends on terrain and strength, of course, but I would imagine that for performance riding, it's better to think the other way around: "when do I drop to small ring?"

On flat and rolling terrain, I'm unaccustomed to seeing anyone I ride with in the small ring, which is usually reserved for climbing efforts and maybe very easy recovery rides.

Running higher up the cassette with the big ring seems better suited to what is more likely to happen, too, namely that things will heat up and get faster than a 52x21, so it's easier, faster and more efficient to drop to smaller cogs than to run down to the bottom two with the small ring and have to make the bigger jump up to the big ring.
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Old 09-06-16, 08:17 AM
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Chain rub or no, you'll have slightly more drive train loss from the smaller gears. So in a group (rare for me) I stay in the big ring until there's a hill that's slowing the group.

Riding solo, the small ring is for slacking.
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Old 09-06-16, 09:10 AM
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I go from big ring to small (and vice versa) when my cadence moves outside the range I'm trying to keep it in. If I'm spinning 105rpm in the small ring, time to go to the big ring. If I'm grinding 70rpm on the big ring, time for the small.

I'm not an internet Hercules who stays in the big ring all day. Well, at least not every day.
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Old 09-06-16, 09:12 AM
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Totally depends on terrain and group.

If I think I will eventually need the big ring on current stretch, I will go to it ASAP (once moving about 12MPH). On the other hand if I know next stretch is mostly uphill and/or rollers and I don't think I will need the big ring, I don't bother until I am running out of gears.
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Old 09-06-16, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by hythamfekry
So you don't have any rub using any of cross-chain configuration "big ring-biggest cog" or "small ring-smallest cog"
at which point do u start to have rubbing
I only have very little rubbing in the "small ring-smallest cog" scenario. No rubbing in the "big ring-biggest cog"; thanks to the trim function.
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Old 09-06-16, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by fa63
I only have very little rubbing in the "small ring-smallest cog" scenario. No rubbing in the "big ring-biggest cog"; thanks to the trim function.
can you please elaborate what do you mean by trim function , how specifically does it works
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Old 09-06-16, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by hythamfekry
can you please elaborate what do you mean by trim function , how specifically does it works
Half shifts. Most front brifters will have a "half shift" between the two major shifts. This allows for you to more easily use the cross chaining gears. Basically you push the lever half way instead of the full way. Really nice brifters will have infinitely adjustable trimming where you can move the derailleur anywhere you want between the two set positions.
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Old 09-06-16, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by corrado33
Half shifts. Most front brifters will have a "half shift" between the two major shifts. This allows for you to more easily use the cross chaining gears. Basically you push the lever half way instead of the full way. Really nice brifters will have infinitely adjustable trimming where you can move the derailleur anywhere you want between the two set positions.
Does it work for both levers of FD .. for me it works with short lever of FD only ..
so when i'm on small ring , there's no half-click for the long lever .. only a full click which will move chain to big ring
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Old 09-06-16, 09:37 AM
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I generally use the big ring when I'm not climbing, and I rarely ride in a paceline, so I don't worry about group rides too much.
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