Gettinfit

Hello everyone, hoping you can educate me. I need help getting prepared for winter here in Japan. Not as cold as a lot your seem to experience but for me it is cold. Winter is about 0 degrees Celcius here.

What do you think of manufacturer's temperature recomendations?

I have a Pearl Izumi long sleeve jersey with a 15C rating?

I am riding short 20-30minute fast rides after work at night and it is starting to get chilly. It is now about 15C. If I were to ride any further it would be getting too cold I think. It is only going to get colder from here on. Next week it will drop to 10C and winter here is about 0 degrees Celcius.

I am wearing an under armor compression vest under the jersey. It just seems to take the sweat and then keeps me cold. Is this a case of the wrong under layer or is the UA vest alright and I just need to get a lower temperature rated jersey?

If I get a winter (wind reducing jersey) say 5C or 0C jersey do I put it over my other long sleeve jersey or do I just wear it with an under garmet? Not sure how the layering works?

How do you layer? Do I follow manufacturer’s temp ratings or should I be looking at something rated 5 degrees lower than the actual temp (or something like different)?

rumrunn6

it takes a season to perfect your ensemble. you're thinking correctly about layers. the trick is getting the layers right for that particular day. then just when you think you got it right the temps drop a little more so you are hunting for more. in my opinion you can't have enough choices. good luck!

Jim from Boston

The way I organize my winter dress is by levels, 1 to 6. (I got that scale from whitewater rafting, where difficulty of a river is rated from 1 to 6, and it works for me). The levels do not mean layers, but the combination of gear for temperature intervals, in increments of about 10 degrees F. A few years ago I posted the scheme on a Road Cycling thread, ”Your clothing choices for various temps, though it needs to be revised since I bought a warmer fleece and winter jacket. The temperature range is from > 70 degrees F (level 1) to < 20 degrees (level 6: my lowest was 0 degrees).

The level makes the job of selecting clothing very easy for that decision to be made on the morning of a commute, without going outside. Sometimes I may bring along a piece of apparel from a higher level just in case. The scheme is particularly useful at the change of seasons to remind me of what works. Also, I choose by ambient temperature and usually ignore the reported wind chill temp, because there always is a wind chill on the moving bike.

I’ve shown this scheme to a few acquaintances at work, and when they ask “How (cold) was the ride?,” I can reply, for example “Level 3,” as happened just this morning.

jrickards

My suspicion is that the UA is drawing the sweat from your body and the wind through the lightweight jersey is removing the sweat and heat from your body making you colder. At lower temperatures, you need a base layer of wool (merino is nice and soft) because wool has the properties of keeping you insulated when wet/damp (not as well as when it's dry but better than synthetic). You also need to stop the wind so that it doesn't reach you so a windproof outer shell would be necessary. Add layers between the two as the temperature dictates.

rm -rf

(I'm adding F to your C temps.)
I've never seen manufacturer temperature ratings until this year. The only one I've tried with temperature ratings are some new mid-weight Pearl Izumi tights that were quite accurate on their ratings.

On group rides, I've seen a wide range of layers for different riders on the ride. Some in shorts and long sleeve jersey, others with winter coats and heavy tights. You should try different layers and keep track of "too hot" or "too cold" and the ride's temperatures.

What I like. Note that this is more layers than some of the above posts!

Convertible jacket
I get overheated on climbs and cold on descents. The best thing I've bought recently for temperatures under 15C/59F is a Pearl Izumi convertible jacket. If it's above 13C/55F, the sleeves zip off. They are connected by a yoke across the shoulders, and stash in the back pocket of the vest (and if I take off the vest, the sleeves roll up into one jersey pocket with the vest rolled into another).

That yoke is the top of a wide mesh vent across the back. So with the sleeves on, I can zip up the front and stay warm, or zip halfway down and get great air movement from the front out the vent. I've worn this jacket all the way down to the 1C/35f - 4C/40F range, with different layers under--just a thin long sleeve jersey, or up to a jersey+midweight+lightweight layers. A winter jacket is way too warm and sweaty for bike riding, unless it's really cold or you are riding at a casual pace. (The jacket with 3 thicker base layers even worked down to 30F/0C, but I was cold at times.)

For me at 11C/52F to 15C/59F, I've worn just a regular long sleeve jersey, with one or two long sleeve layers under. None of these layers are wind blocking at all, but the multiple layering effect does help. I'll definitely have some leg warmers or thin tights at these temperatures.

I like no-chamois/un-padded tights, worn with normal bike shorts. That way, I can wash the shorts and the tights usually can be worn the next day without washing. It's a good way to get some more wear out of ratty shorts that are a little saggy, ripped, or thinning. I have thin no-name tights for 9C/48F to 15C/59F, and the mid weight PI tights for 5C/40F to 11C/52F.

Base layers
I really like my REI Polartec long sleeve base layers. I have a mid-weight with a zip neck, and a lightweight crew neck. They are kind of expensive, but they seem to last a long time. They wick sweat very well. They have a smooth surface, so it's easy to pull another layer over them. I don't seem to get overheated if the day warms up, either.

Gloves.
I have a big collection of gloves. I really like glove liners, either as a base layer or worn as thin gloves by themselves.

MichaelW

I like a windproof (not waterproof) shell. Pertex or some other tight weave material. Don' t bother with fancy membranes.
You don't need cycling tops under a shell. Any generic polyester/wicking hiking top will do. Use Tshirts or long-sleeved base layer.
Add mid-layers to suit, in thin layers.
Don' foret your legs.
Merino wool is nice as a base layer but essential in socks.
A neck warmer is very versatile as is a thin padded sleeveless gillet/body-warmer.

Gettinfit

Thanks guys for the input. I'll have to find some time and get down to the store and see what they have.

CanadianBiker32

No offense, i find it funny on this forum for winter time, and people are talking about temperatures of 10 and 15C , lol. thats warm almost where i am. anyways i ride in winter where it can get to -30C at times, even colder with wind chill. I just dress in many layers. . windproof pants with cycling pants under neath, top a few long sleeve jerseys, then a light jacket and windproof jacket on top, and face, full neoprene mask, with ski goggles if really cold.

GravelMN

First, get rid of the compression vest for winter riding and never use compression socks or pants in cold weather. You want a baselayer that is comfortably close fit but not tight, same with socks.

Layering is your friend in cold weather, consider the 4 W's when picking out your gear for the day. From the inner layer to the outer, the 4 W's are Wicking, Warm, and Water/Windproof. A polypropylene, polyester or poly/wool blend base layer top and bottom will help with the wicking and some warmth without becoming overly hot once you get working. For your feet, the best thing I ever found was merino wool ski socks, though wool hiking socks will also work fine. Your midlayer can be a winter jersey and something like Sport Hill's XC pant, which are close fitting, but not skin tight, and are water and wind resistant in the front but allow good moisture control. Your mid-layer will change with temperature and wind/moisture conditions so have a few different weight options. Merino wool is a standard, but there are tech fleece fabrics that also work well. Avoid cotton. Your outer layer will also change based on conditions. A wind vest may be all you need some days, while other times you will want a full jacket. Wind and Waterproof fronts are good, but full waterproof outers create a sauna effect. Look for shells that have breathable panels under the arms and/or across the back. Try to find layers that are fitted but not tight as you want your insulation to retain it's loft and the layers to trap warm air while allowing good blood circulation and moisture control. Zippers, full/half/quarter are your best friends when it comes to controlling temperature and airflow/moisture.

For head gear, a couple of beanies in different weights and a light balaclava or face mask will suffice at the temperatures you described. Water/Windproof insulated gloves in a weight of your personal preference will also be needed. Get your gloves a little on the large size and get a pair of wool glove liners to increase versatility at different temperatures. Neoprene shoe covers should be adequate down to freezing temps as long as you have shoes that fit comfortably over wool socks. Tight shoes, like compression clothing, work against you in cold weather. You might need to invest in cycling shoes a half size larger, or at least have a generous toe box to accommodate heavy socks.

The mistake many people make is to overdress and then they get hot and sweaty. Wet clothing and cold weather is a bad mix. Try to dress so that you are on the cold side but not shivering when starting out and comfortably cool once you have warmed up for a couple miles. Have some way to shed or add a layer as needed. I have used a small stuff sack either on a rear rack or slung beneath my top tube with a couple of velcro straps to carry an extra fleece vest or wool mid-layer and spare beanie, as well as having room for any layer I decide to shed. Open zippers or shed layers before you get soaked with sweat. The idea that you can't prevent sweating in cold weather while in winter gear is bunk. If you are sweating heavily in cold weather, you are overdressed and need to increase ventilation and/or decrease insulation until you are comfortably cool. I've ridden a century at near freezing temps and when I changed clothes after the event my base layer was only damp in the armpits and center of my chest. My midlayer was nearly completely dry, and I'm a big guy who sweats easily.

Gettinfit

Thanks for all the good info. I think I will start with a different base layer and drop the UA vest. And get a wind cutting outer shell with breathing room out the back. Then see how that goes. Then add another layer if and when needed.

wipekitty

I also organize by levels - though mine are winter-specific, and also specific to my own body's comfort levels: