SlimAgainSoon

I use an LED flashlight for my bike light. The one I have I got cheap from Amazon or maybe that slow-boat import business in Taiwan (I have two of these, similar but not exactly the same).

Shopping for another, but ... I'm confused.

What are the hot-shot LEDs nowadays?

I see a lot of these flashlights on Amazon and elsewhere, and I can't sort out the wheat from the chaff without some help.

The flashlight I'm using now says Cree XML-T6. This is a couple of years old, so ... must be something better by now.

LED experts, please weigh in.

andr0id

The better LED lights use a CR123 battery. I think because they are 3V rather than 1.5V like AA.

I like the Streamlight Protac 1 and 2. Compact and very bright.

SlimAgainSoon

This flashlight uses a 18650 lithium battery, and I'm looking for a light that uses those same cells.

Athens80

In before the flood of lights.

Your biggest decision point may be how important a good beam pattern is. The best beams are [mostly] in devices powered either by proprietary battery packs or by bicycle generators. Cycling-specific lights generally provide better lighting on the road and and reduce possibly excess light going into the eyes of oncoming drivers.

no motor?

I'd recommend a C8 light.

SlimAgainSoon

I got that ... my other bike has a generator hub and a high-quality (Edelux) light. On this bike, I've been happy with the flashlight, plus I can use it for ... a flashlight. So while I may go with a bike-designed light, for now I'm exploring these $12 lights I see advertised, and trying to determine if any of them are as good, or better, than what I'm burning now.

1nterceptor

Maybe try this one, Solarforce L2. Runs on 1,2 or 3 18650 batteries.
LED module can be replaced in the future; in case a more powerful
or advanced technology comes up:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qVX...IoDLA&index=85

SloButWide 

Sadly, if you google "best led flashlight 2015", at least the first three pages of results are marketing/clickbait pages. The no-name, fake-name Chinese lights have acceptable quality and are low cost $20-50 (superfire, ultrafire, etc.). There are also many, many name brand lights that typically run $40 - $100; they're a little better built than the no names, and have a warranty and dealers that ship from the US. I like Olight and Fenix, but that's mostly because it's what I bought when I got into the hobby in 2007. Above that are the Premium brands, aimed at Law Enforcement, Firemen, and tradesmen, such as Streamlight, Pelican, and Surefire (see where the fake-names come from?).

You're right to focus on LED. The name brand LEDs are Cree and Phillips (and probably others, I'm a recovering flashoholic). Typically, there will be a brand, family, color, and bin/flux. - such as Cree XML T6. Cree's binning is explained here. The bin/flux part of the LED refers to how good the color is, and how efficient (light per watt) the LED is.

Be aware that the no name lights are extremely "optimistic" about bin and light output (lumens) claims. They'll all claim to be T or even T6, but you might well get an S. With name brands, you pay extra, but if it says U4, you'll generally get that. The premium brands spec high bin LEDS, and deliver.

As someone else pointed out, flashlights have different beam patterns than (many) bike lights. You can decide if you want a "thrower" (narrow beam, long distance) or good fill (wide beam). You might want to aim carefully, and perhaps mask the beam to keep it out of a driver's eyes.

If you want to know more, you can fall down a rat hole at Candlepower Forums.

Edit:
Cree XM L and XM L2 are still pretty much hot-shot. XP are similar. A good discussion of the Cree families is here. T6 seems to be the price/performance sweet spot; if a performance bin is quoted, know that P is good, Q is better, and R is best and most expensive.

PaulRivers

Also, it depends on who you ask, but many people including myself find "neutral white" led's to be much, much nicer on our eyes than the more common bluish/purplish "cool white" led's.

a1penguin

XinTD C8 V5 XM-L2 U4 1C 18650 Flashlight

I *love* this flashlight! Until recently, I was commuting 120 miles a week (an hour each way, four days a week) and the ride home was always after dark. This flashlight is really bright and you can specify how many levels of brightness you want. This seller is based in the US and shipping is fast. It comes in several tints. I don't see the 1A tinnt which is blue and I prefer. He also carries high quality 18650 batteries. None of those *fire batteries. With higher output flashlights, you'll need a battery that can supply sufficient current levels. I bought Panasonic NCR18650B Protected 3400mAh batteries and on high, the light will last 1.5-2 hours.

If you are interested in lower end flashlights, checkout Home | BudgetLightForum.com. Lots of good info there.

SlimAgainSoon

Ha! That one's sold out. Go figure.

You know, I looked at one of the flashlight forums, and ... too deep for me. I just need a short course.

I looked for a C-8, per recommendation, but lots of variety. What does C-8 mean?

A have a handful of 18650 flashlights ... all of them have "-fire" in the name, somewhere. I guess I was going for the cheap stuff.

So do most of the batteries ... but those are better than the 18650 cells I got at the battery store here in town. Those are ... unpredictable. Seem to show they are charged but not really, then sometimes they do fine. These have the big bulge on top, some kind of protection. The "-fire" cells don't.

a1penguin

C8 is a form factor/size. The XinTD is a bit bigger than the older C8s I have. The reflector used in the flashlight can influence perceived brightness. A shallow reflector will spread the beam over a much wider area (flood) and won't be particularly useful for cycling. A deep reflector will result in a narrower beam (throw) and hence you get more light in a smaller area and it will light up the further away. You obviously don't want a laser and you don't want a standard light bulb :-) There are other factors that can influence beam shape and intensity as well.

The XinTD has a brighter LED and better shape beam for cycling. The only way to compare beams a priori. Photos or measurement with special setup are the best way to compare.

For higher power flashlights, you'll need higher power batteries to drive the led hard enough and for long run time, which is why I recommended the 3400 or 3500 mAh batteries. I always use protected batteries but there are plenty of people who use unprotected in a single battery flashlight. Using unprotected batteries in a poorly made flashlight can result in the flashlight driving the voltage down far enough to damage the battery.

Deal4Fuji

I got his flashlight from Lowes for $17 as a back up. 250 lumens, 3 modes, CREE LED using 3 AAA's

SlimAgainSoon

What does "protection" mean with 18650 cells?

And is that accomplished with the extra bulge at the top? Some of my batteries have that, others have just a button on the plus end, like you see on any AA battery.

Thanks for all the info. You guys know your flashlights.