TL-FH10 tool dimensions needed (DA7400 freehub body remover)
#1
Constant tinkerer
Thread Starter
TL-FH10 tool dimensions needed (DA7400 freehub body remover)
[Skip this background paragraph if you want to cut to the chase below.] As you may know if you're reading this thread, the Dura Ace 7400 cassette hub is unique. Rather than being removed with a simple 10mm Allen wrench like most Shimano bodies, these bodies thread into the hub shell and can only be removed with a special Shimano TL-FH10 tool that is no longer available. These hubs are not compatible with anything else but are compatible with eachother. So for example, you may have a 28 hole hub with a Uniglide-only body that you want to swap a Hyperglide-compatible body onto.
Long story short, I want this tool but it's almost impossible to find. I have access to a machine shop that could make one for me but I don't know the dimensions. Does anyone have one of these tools they could measure for me? I would need the diameters of both shafts and the spline width/length/height. I also need to know the number of splines but I could figure that out from cracking open a hub.
This is a picture of the tool in question:
Long story short, I want this tool but it's almost impossible to find. I have access to a machine shop that could make one for me but I don't know the dimensions. Does anyone have one of these tools they could measure for me? I would need the diameters of both shafts and the spline width/length/height. I also need to know the number of splines but I could figure that out from cracking open a hub.
This is a picture of the tool in question:
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Somewhere in TX
Posts: 2,266
Bikes: BH, Cervelo, Cube, Canyon
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 212 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
I'm going to a bike shop this week to use one of these. I could measure it for you. But I do have this drawing, because I considered having one fabricated as well.
#3
Constant tinkerer
Thread Starter
If you could get measurements it would be much appreciated. If it works I could get a couple made and send you one as a thank-you. Measurements from a micrometer are best but a decent set of calipers would probably be good enough.
Worst case, next time I'm buying spokes at Yellow Jersey bike shop in Arlington WI (formerly in Madison WI) I'll ask if I can measure one of theirs. I'd be very surprised if they don't have one.
Worst case, next time I'm buying spokes at Yellow Jersey bike shop in Arlington WI (formerly in Madison WI) I'll ask if I can measure one of theirs. I'd be very surprised if they don't have one.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Somewhere in TX
Posts: 2,266
Bikes: BH, Cervelo, Cube, Canyon
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 212 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
I was going to measure to +/- 0.001" and model it up in Solidworks. Good enough?
God, I hope someone doesn't beat me to it. I'd love to have one.
God, I hope someone doesn't beat me to it. I'd love to have one.
#6
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If you could get measurements it would be much appreciated. If it works I could get a couple made and send you one as a thank-you. Measurements from a micrometer are best but a decent set of calipers would probably be good enough.
Worst case, next time I'm buying spokes at Yellow Jersey bike shop in Arlington WI (formerly in Madison WI) I'll ask if I can measure one of theirs. I'd be very surprised if they don't have one.
Worst case, next time I'm buying spokes at Yellow Jersey bike shop in Arlington WI (formerly in Madison WI) I'll ask if I can measure one of theirs. I'd be very surprised if they don't have one.
Did you manage to get the measurements? Even model it up? I want to have one made as well. I found this image on the web with measurements. Are they close to yours?
#7
Constant tinkerer
Thread Starter
#8
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hey guy, sorry to bump this up but hope I can help.
This dude has done the same thing: TL-FH10 7400 JZbgt[ fG[X page is in Japanese but the pictures are clear enough.
I've tried welding up a 4-way tool with bolt head for drive and the thing was stuck tight enough that the steel bar was bent. I'm going to attempt grinding down a 14mm allen key as shown and hopefully I can get the freehub off for a service. Anyway good luck.
This dude has done the same thing: TL-FH10 7400 JZbgt[ fG[X page is in Japanese but the pictures are clear enough.
I've tried welding up a 4-way tool with bolt head for drive and the thing was stuck tight enough that the steel bar was bent. I'm going to attempt grinding down a 14mm allen key as shown and hopefully I can get the freehub off for a service. Anyway good luck.
#10
Constant tinkerer
Thread Starter
Thanks to wesmamyke I am now the happy owner of this tool. I can confirm that the measurements in post #6 are accurate but they leave out the critical "minor diameter" of the splines. This diameter is 13.03mm which means that each spline is 0.84mm tall.
If anyone wants, I can draw this part in SolidWorks (which can then be saved with various file types) if you want to have one made.
If anyone wants, I can draw this part in SolidWorks (which can then be saved with various file types) if you want to have one made.
#11
Idiot
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Arlington, Virginia
Posts: 7
Bikes: Montagues (3 of them right now)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Machining tool?
Hi, are you still thinking about machining this tool? I'd be interested in paying for one, honestly, if you have an idea of what that would look like.
Alternatively, I guess if I could get my hands on the specs then I could find someplace else to do the machining, but I'd have to do time research first.
Sorry, I would've PMed you but I'm not allowed to, apparently.
Alternatively, I guess if I could get my hands on the specs then I could find someplace else to do the machining, but I'd have to do time research first.
Sorry, I would've PMed you but I'm not allowed to, apparently.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Somewhere in TX
Posts: 2,266
Bikes: BH, Cervelo, Cube, Canyon
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 212 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
I completely forgot I had worked on this. I modeled it up, machined some stainless steel bar stock, gave my wrench a twist and promptly sheared off every lug. Said screw-this and tossed everything in the trash. I was having a bad day. Should have machined it out of 4340 then heat treated. oh well.
#13
Senior Member
Here is how I remove these freehubs: Crack the outer race on the freehub. Reverse threaded. Remove everything but the inner freehub core. This includes the pawls and pawl springs.
Then wrap the core with something to protect it, as you are going to put the core in a bench vise. Then unwind the core the same way you'd remove a freewheel.
Then wrap the core with something to protect it, as you are going to put the core in a bench vise. Then unwind the core the same way you'd remove a freewheel.
#14
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,446 Times
in
1,557 Posts
#16
Idiot
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Arlington, Virginia
Posts: 7
Bikes: Montagues (3 of them right now)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have this tool now actually. Also have a DA/Mavic Open wheelset that I swapped the Uniglide freehub out and installed a Hyperglide one onto if you're interested in both or either of these things. (I kept the wheelset but ended up going with all 559mm wheels because I'm pretty short.) I can't seem to send any direct messages but don't hesitate to send one to me. Otherwise feel free to reply here and maybe we can find another way to get in touch.
#17
Newbie
I have this tool now actually. Also have a DA/Mavic Open wheelset that I swapped the Uniglide freehub out and installed a Hyperglide one onto if you're interested in both or either of these things. (I kept the wheelset but ended up going with all 559mm wheels because I'm pretty short.) I can't seem to send any direct messages but don't hesitate to send one to me. Otherwise feel free to reply here and maybe we can find another way to get in touch.
Thanks, Mark O
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,064
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 122 Times
in
90 Posts
If you have the 3D model, you could 3D print it in Steel-bronze mixture from Shapeways. From the size of it, I assume it would cost about $30-40. It has a +/-1mm accuracy though because it comes out as a "green" soft clump of powder glued together, then they heat it in an oven to melt the glue and infuse the bronze. I used this method for printing my FD adapter. This material is kind of brittle though, they warn not to use this for structural loads. The aluminum print is stronger and has a +/-0.2mm accuracy since it is laser sintered aluminum powder, but costs twice as much as the steel-bronze.
https://www.shapeways.com/materials/steel
https://www.shapeways.com/materials/aluminum
You can also get it CNC machined with Protolabs, the part is small, so it's usually the minimum $100 cost. Done in 3 days.
https://www.protolabs.com/
https://www.shapeways.com/materials/steel
https://www.shapeways.com/materials/aluminum
You can also get it CNC machined with Protolabs, the part is small, so it's usually the minimum $100 cost. Done in 3 days.
https://www.protolabs.com/
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#21
Newbie
Thanks to wesmamyke I am now the happy owner of this tool. I can confirm that the measurements in post #6 are accurate but they leave out the critical "minor diameter" of the splines. This diameter is 13.03mm which means that each spline is 0.84mm tall.
If anyone wants, I can draw this part in SolidWorks (which can then be saved with various file types) if you want to have one made.
If anyone wants, I can draw this part in SolidWorks (which can then be saved with various file types) if you want to have one made.
Can you share this file in PDF?
Many thanks in advance.
Kind regards...