Looking for higher gears
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Looking for higher gears
I have 48 38 28 in front and 7 speed in the rear. I don't think I ever use 1st on the front. What would work better?
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So when you're in the 48 tooth front gear, and the smallest rear, you're not going fast enough? I find that hard to believe.
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It is about 22 mph. If I hit a down hill I can't peddle fast enough to keep up. I think the GPS says I hit 25 mph a couple of times and that was coasting.
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[SUB]gear[/SUB][SUP]cad.[/SUP][TABLE="class: mytable, align: center"]
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48 front and 11 rear --
At 80 RPM you're looking 27.3 mph.
At 100 RPM you're looking at 34.1 mph.
At 120 RPM you're looking at 41.0 mph.
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48 front and 11 rear --
At 80 RPM you're looking 27.3 mph.
At 100 RPM you're looking at 34.1 mph.
At 120 RPM you're looking at 41.0 mph.
#9
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I see.
So at 22 mph you're at about 78 rpm.
Yeah, you can either spin faster or maybe change the rear cassette to have like an 11-28 or something? I'm not too familiar with what is needed to change all that, but I bet your bike shop would have an idea if you stopped up with the bike.
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I see.
So at 22 mph you're at about 78 rpm.
Yeah, you can either spin faster or maybe change the rear cassette to have like an 11-28 or something? I'm not too familiar with what is needed to change all that, but I bet your bike shop would have an idea if you stopped up with the bike.
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Yea these 56 year old legs won't go much faster. Would all 7 gears need changed or just the 14 to a 11?
#12
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Just buy a cassette with an 11 tooth cog. You will also require your chain shortened as it will be a little long. Also adjust your B screw to ensure the cassette body is corrected. Your local bike shop can do it under 30 minutes.
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14-34, that sounds like a freewheel not a free hub. 11-28 freewheels in shimano are hard to come by, you my need to go nonshimano. if you have a freehub then you can use a cassette which should have better availability.
#14
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You really don't need taller gearing. Chances are your 700x45 tires are heavy, have a significant tread and inflexible sidewalls. Switch to a smaller tire with minimal tread and flexible sidewalls and enjoy less pedalling effort and probably a bit more speed. Schwalbe Marathon no bigger than 700x35 comes to mind.
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Work on your cadence. You should be able to pedal faster. Alternately, just coast downhill and work harder going uphill.
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HI! I'm new to the forum and new to cycling. I am curious about gears though. I deliver pizzas and would like to try a bicycle on clear weather days. I also would like to add an engine for steep hills and highways. I'm hoping I chose the right thread to look for advice. Sorry if this post is hijacking.
Nick
Nick
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HI! I'm new to the forum and new to cycling. I am curious about gears though. I deliver pizzas and would like to try a bicycle on clear weather days. I also would like to add an engine for steep hills and highways. I'm hoping I chose the right thread to look for advice. Sorry if this post is hijacking.
Nick
Nick
#19
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HI! I'm new to the forum and new to cycling. I am curious about gears though. I deliver pizzas and would like to try a bicycle on clear weather days. I also would like to add an engine for steep hills and highways. I'm hoping I chose the right thread to look for advice. Sorry if this post is hijacking.
Nick
Nick
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GigHz,
I understand what you are talking about. I do not find it hard to believe, at all. I am familiar with your geography up there in PA, the hills and stream valleys.
On downhills you are "spinning out". I am in my 50s and with a 48t chainring and 11t rear cog i can hit low 30s mph when i am pushing it.
I think you can work on your cadence, I don't think your tires are the problem. I do think that 14t cog that is causing most of your issue. My geography is very similar to yours.
I have had this exact issue, and have changed gearing, and it has taken care of "spinning out" at top end on hills.
You need to determine if your rear cogs are a freewheel or a cassette. Find the brand and model and look it up. I'm running 48/11t right now, and only "spin out" on the steepest of hills.
I can understand your issue with 48/14t, your top end would suffer on hills if I were pedaling, for sure. The extra speed helps to get up the next hill, i get it.
If it is your Specialized Crossroads bike, I did a quick search, I am pretty sure that is a cassette.
See link below: 11-28t, 11-32t , the 11-34t cassette give you higher top end allowing you to retain the hill climbing low end.
hit the select button to see the choice
https://https://www.amazon.com/Shiman...speed+cassette
Keep in mind that when you span from 11 to 32t, or 11-34t, on a 7 speed cassette, the gearing is spaced wider between cogs because they are spanning a wider range.
On one of my bikes I went from a 12t small cog to an 11t small, and felt a difference and saw a difference on the bike computer, so, from 14t to 11t I think you will see a noticeable difference!
That is a sizeable jump.
If you simply swapped your single 14t cog to an 11t cog....
what is the next cog in line? a 16t? You would create a huge jump, from 11t to 16t, I advise against doing that.
A new cassette will be set up with more evenly spaced gearing. 11t, 13t, 15t...and so on.
Lastly, consider replacing the chain when going with the new cassette, especially if you have some miles on your current set-up.
Chains are not that expensive.
I understand what you are talking about. I do not find it hard to believe, at all. I am familiar with your geography up there in PA, the hills and stream valleys.
On downhills you are "spinning out". I am in my 50s and with a 48t chainring and 11t rear cog i can hit low 30s mph when i am pushing it.
I think you can work on your cadence, I don't think your tires are the problem. I do think that 14t cog that is causing most of your issue. My geography is very similar to yours.
I have had this exact issue, and have changed gearing, and it has taken care of "spinning out" at top end on hills.
You need to determine if your rear cogs are a freewheel or a cassette. Find the brand and model and look it up. I'm running 48/11t right now, and only "spin out" on the steepest of hills.
I can understand your issue with 48/14t, your top end would suffer on hills if I were pedaling, for sure. The extra speed helps to get up the next hill, i get it.
If it is your Specialized Crossroads bike, I did a quick search, I am pretty sure that is a cassette.
See link below: 11-28t, 11-32t , the 11-34t cassette give you higher top end allowing you to retain the hill climbing low end.
hit the select button to see the choice
https://https://www.amazon.com/Shiman...speed+cassette
Keep in mind that when you span from 11 to 32t, or 11-34t, on a 7 speed cassette, the gearing is spaced wider between cogs because they are spanning a wider range.
On one of my bikes I went from a 12t small cog to an 11t small, and felt a difference and saw a difference on the bike computer, so, from 14t to 11t I think you will see a noticeable difference!
That is a sizeable jump.
If you simply swapped your single 14t cog to an 11t cog....
what is the next cog in line? a 16t? You would create a huge jump, from 11t to 16t, I advise against doing that.
A new cassette will be set up with more evenly spaced gearing. 11t, 13t, 15t...and so on.
Lastly, consider replacing the chain when going with the new cassette, especially if you have some miles on your current set-up.
Chains are not that expensive.
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GigHz,
I understand what you are talking about. I do not find it hard to believe, at all. I am familiar with your geography up there in PA, the hills and stream valleys.
On downhills you are "spinning out". I am in my 50s and with a 48t chainring and 11t rear cog i can hit low 30s mph when i am pushing it.
I think you can work on your cadence, I don't think your tires are the problem. I do think that 14t cog that is causing most of your issue. My geography is very similar to yours.
I have had this exact issue, and have changed gearing, and it has taken care of "spinning out" at top end on hills.
You need to determine if your rear cogs are a freewheel or a cassette. Find the brand and model and look it up. I'm running 48/11t right now, and only "spin out" on the steepest of hills.
I can understand your issue with 48/14t, your top end would suffer on hills if I were pedaling, for sure. The extra speed helps to get up the next hill, i get it.
If it is your Specialized Crossroads bike, I did a quick search, I am pretty sure that is a cassette.
See link below: 11-28t, 11-32t , the 11-34t cassette give you higher top end allowing you to retain the hill climbing low end.
hit the select button to see the choice
https://https://www.amazon.com/Shiman...speed+cassette
Keep in mind that when you span from 11 to 32t, or 11-34t, on a 7 speed cassette, the gearing is spaced wider between cogs because they are spanning a wider range.
On one of my bikes I went from a 12t small cog to an 11t small, and felt a difference and saw a difference on the bike computer, so, from 14t to 11t I think you will see a noticeable difference!
That is a sizeable jump.
If you simply swapped your single 14t cog to an 11t cog....
what is the next cog in line? a 16t? You would create a huge jump, from 11t to 16t, I advise against doing that.
A new cassette will be set up with more evenly spaced gearing. 11t, 13t, 15t...and so on.
Lastly, consider replacing the chain when going with the new cassette, especially if you have some miles on your current set-up.
Chains are not that expensive.
I understand what you are talking about. I do not find it hard to believe, at all. I am familiar with your geography up there in PA, the hills and stream valleys.
On downhills you are "spinning out". I am in my 50s and with a 48t chainring and 11t rear cog i can hit low 30s mph when i am pushing it.
I think you can work on your cadence, I don't think your tires are the problem. I do think that 14t cog that is causing most of your issue. My geography is very similar to yours.
I have had this exact issue, and have changed gearing, and it has taken care of "spinning out" at top end on hills.
You need to determine if your rear cogs are a freewheel or a cassette. Find the brand and model and look it up. I'm running 48/11t right now, and only "spin out" on the steepest of hills.
I can understand your issue with 48/14t, your top end would suffer on hills if I were pedaling, for sure. The extra speed helps to get up the next hill, i get it.
If it is your Specialized Crossroads bike, I did a quick search, I am pretty sure that is a cassette.
See link below: 11-28t, 11-32t , the 11-34t cassette give you higher top end allowing you to retain the hill climbing low end.
hit the select button to see the choice
https://https://www.amazon.com/Shiman...speed+cassette
Keep in mind that when you span from 11 to 32t, or 11-34t, on a 7 speed cassette, the gearing is spaced wider between cogs because they are spanning a wider range.
On one of my bikes I went from a 12t small cog to an 11t small, and felt a difference and saw a difference on the bike computer, so, from 14t to 11t I think you will see a noticeable difference!
That is a sizeable jump.
If you simply swapped your single 14t cog to an 11t cog....
what is the next cog in line? a 16t? You would create a huge jump, from 11t to 16t, I advise against doing that.
A new cassette will be set up with more evenly spaced gearing. 11t, 13t, 15t...and so on.
Lastly, consider replacing the chain when going with the new cassette, especially if you have some miles on your current set-up.
Chains are not that expensive.