Stuck square taper crank - can't remove using crank puller.
04-06-21, 12:03 PM
#26
Senior Member
Make sure the tool is threaded in until it bottoms out. It will take a fair amount of force to get the crank to move. I use a 12" adjustable wrench to remove mine.
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04-06-21, 12:21 PM
#27
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My post as before I could see the "femaleness" of the threads! Now I can see them both ways but for a long time I couldn't.
04-07-21, 03:03 PM
#28
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I was dealing with a similar problem on the 1982 Lotus Supreme I'm doing as a project. Drive side came off like it was supposed to, NDS the threads pulled right out of the crank. When I calmed down, I looked at one of the MANY threads here on BF on this very topic, and ordered a pair of chuck wedges - a pair of thin steel wedges with 'U's cut out of them. Stuck them between the BB and the crank from opposite sides, hammered on them, alternating one then the other, and suddenly the crank popped off - *CLANG!!* as it hit the floor. Amazing.
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04-07-21, 05:39 PM
#29
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I seem to be missing where the problem is, the threads in the crank look like they're in perfect condition. So make sure the center post of the tool is fully recessed into the tool and tighten the tool into the crank. Go by hand first to make sure you line up the threads right and you should be able to turn it in by hand most of the way. Use your wrench to snug it down and then start turning the center post to pull the crank off. Cranks are a wedged fit which makes them really tight and often it feels like the threads are going to strip out. But if you have the center of the tool fully recessed when screwing in and screw the tool into the crank all the way, unless the tool really sucks the crank will just come off. Might have to really hang onto the crank though. Usually I do the non-drive side first so I can use the drive side as leverage. That lets me do the drive side using the drivetrain as the leverage which can be necessary with how tight things can be.
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04-11-21, 10:13 AM
#30
Newbie
Thread Starter
I seem to be missing where the problem is, the threads in the crank look like they're in perfect condition. So make sure the center post of the tool is fully recessed into the tool and tighten the tool into the crank. Go by hand first to make sure you line up the threads right and you should be able to turn it in by hand most of the way. Use your wrench to snug it down and then start turning the center post to pull the crank off. Cranks are a wedged fit which makes them really tight and often it feels like the threads are going to strip out. But if you have the center of the tool fully recessed when screwing in and screw the tool into the crank all the way, unless the tool really sucks the crank will just come off. Might have to really hang onto the crank though. Usually I do the non-drive side first so I can use the drive side as leverage. That lets me do the drive side using the drivetrain as the leverage which can be necessary with how tight things can be.
04-11-21, 11:53 AM
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I've found that Tri-flow works well enough for moderate stuck-ness, along with a bit of heat & percussion,
to not bother looking around for dedicated penetrating oil. At least as good as liquid wrench, for example.
to not bother looking around for dedicated penetrating oil. At least as good as liquid wrench, for example.
