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Stuck square taper crank - can't remove using crank puller.

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Stuck square taper crank - can't remove using crank puller.

Old 04-03-21, 04:49 PM
  #1  
flyagaricus
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Stuck square taper crank - can't remove using crank puller.

Hi

I'm trying to remove my crank and it just won't budge. I'm worried about doing damage to the bike. Is there anything I can do to loosen it up - lubrication points? WD-40 etc? I have the right tool as far as I know.

Cheers.



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Old 04-03-21, 04:59 PM
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Well at least you removed the bolt. A more common mistake than you’d think

Get some PB Blaster or Kroil and allow it to sit overnight. Some say that Kroil works better. Then try again. You might need a cheater bar.
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Old 04-03-21, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Well at least you removed the bolt. A more common mistake than you’d think

Get some PB Blaster or Kroil and allow it to sit overnight. Some say that Kroil works better. Then try again. You might need a cheater bar.
Will Triflow work as a penetrating oil?
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Old 04-03-21, 05:01 PM
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Take your remover out and make dead sure that when you replace it, the "plunger" of the tool is hitting the end of the spindle and nothing else; that any washer in there has been removed. If the tool is contacting the crank instead of the spindle, you are just doing your best to destroy the crank. It that is all good and the crank is still stuck, hang around. I am sure there are tricks using penetrating oils, temperature changes, etc. I'm not that source.
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Old 04-03-21, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by flyagaricus
Will Triflow work as a penetrating oil?
You've got a stuck crank. Do you want to screw around with a substitute for penetrating oil?
Lean the bike on its side and load that baby up with Kroil or PB Blaster.
Let it soak. After awhile, take a box end wrench or similar and tap the area. You want to "ring" it so the vibrations/capillary action helps get the oil into the tiniest places. No mashing.

Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 04-03-21 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 04-03-21, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by flyagaricus
Will Triflow work as a penetrating oil?
Does it say anywhere on the bottle that it's a penetrating oil?





No.
ETA: It doesn't look like that should be very stuck, you might just need some more leverage.

Last edited by cxwrench; 04-03-21 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 04-03-21, 07:59 PM
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After you have applied Kroil or PB Blaster a suggested, when you get the crank remover as tight as you dare, hit the end of the puller a sharp blow with a hand sledge, in line with the puller axis. This shock may get the taper to release.
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Old 04-03-21, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
Does it say anywhere on the bottle that it's a penetrating oil?





No.
ETA: It doesn't look like that should be very stuck, you might just need some more leverage.
Yes, yes it does.

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Old 04-03-21, 08:03 PM
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Huh...well, it's not ...not like proper penetrating oils. Get some of you'll be trying to get that thing off for a week.
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Old 04-03-21, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
After you have applied Kroil or PB Blaster a suggested, when you get the crank remover as tight as you dare, hit the end of the puller a sharp blow with a hand sledge, in line with the puller axis. This shock may get the taper to release.
Thanks. Going let some triflow at it overnight because I have some, try again tomorrow and if it's still stuck I'll look for some PB Blaster.

Cheers.
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Old 04-03-21, 08:04 PM
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back in the day i did a lot of motorcycle work. to get a stuck magneto rotor off a tapered crank, we would put a load on the puller tool and give the the end of the tool a wrap with a hammer.
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Old 04-03-21, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dr1445
back in the day i did a lot of motorcycle work. to get a stuck magneto rotor off a tapered crank, we would put a load on the puller tool and give the the end of the tool a wrap with a hammer.
Yrep, small engine flywheels too. Pound a couple wood wedges under it, run the nut to the top of the crank, a tap on the crank and pop.
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Old 04-03-21, 10:20 PM
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After you remove the bolt, you start riding, but gently. At the moment you sense that the crank starts to loosen, you stop and walk the bike back. It works 100% of time. Yes, you always hear advice never to do it warning of a damage. If you do it gently the damage occurs in 0% of cases.
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Old 04-03-21, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 2_i
After you remove the bolt, you start riding, but gently. At the moment you sense that the crank starts to loosen, you stop and walk the bike back. It works 100% of time. Yes, you always hear advice never to do it warning of a damage. If you do it gently the damage occurs in 0% of cases.
Yep. This.
Just take it for a spin around the block. Stay sitting down. If that doesn't budge it, maybe take it up a slight incline. It'll come off eventually.
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Old 04-04-21, 12:57 AM
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If all else fails there is always the Jacob wedges or a ball joint pickle fork, just use them carefully as to not damage the frame
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Old 04-04-21, 07:01 AM
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Came across such a crank yesterday. Reluctant to put too much muscle on the remover and risk stripping out the threads in the crankarm, I kept that tension on it and did a few taps on the remover with a hammer, some heat from a propane torch, a few more taps with some energy behind them, and it came loose. The other side did the same thing so got the same treatment.
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Old 04-04-21, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
Came across such a crank yesterday. Reluctant to put too much muscle on the remover and risk stripping out the threads in the crankarm, I kept that tension on it and did a few taps on the remover with a hammer, some heat from a propane torch, a few more taps with some energy behind them, and it came loose. The other side did the same thing so got the same treatment.
I always recommend pouring boiling water over the crank end first and if no luck, go to the torch.
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Old 04-04-21, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Crankycrank
I always recommend pouring boiling water over the crank end first and if no luck, go to the torch.
Electric heat guns are easier to control, less chance of searing paint. Harbor Freight sells them for $8 at times.
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Old 04-04-21, 10:18 AM
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Does the ram end of the puller fit in the square hole of the crank? Hard to tell. Probably does but maybe not.

If not, then you are pushing against the crank and not the shaft. That won't work.
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Old 04-04-21, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Iride01
Does the ram end of the puller fit in the square hole of the crank? Hard to tell. Probably does but maybe not.

If not, then you are pushing against the crank and not the shaft. That won't work.
It almost looks like its traveling down on the threads. Find a small bolt that drops in with out contacting the threads but still fits inside the square taper. Then try your puller.
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Old 04-04-21, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by flyagaricus
Thanks. Going let some triflow at it overnight because I have some, try again tomorrow and if it's still stuck I'll look for some PB Blaster.

Cheers.
Triflow's thin enough so it may work. Heat up the crank a bit with a hair dryer or heat gun to improve penetration. Have patience and resist the urge to use a cheater bar (unless it's only a foot long).
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Old 04-04-21, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by krakhaus
Yep. This.
Just take it for a spin around the block. Stay sitting down. If that doesn't budge it, maybe take it up a slight incline. It'll come off eventually.
The bike is pretty stripped down so no riding.

Anyway, I got it out. Thanks
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Old 04-04-21, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Moe Zhoost
Triflow's thin enough so it may work. Heat up the crank a bit with a hair dryer or heat gun to improve penetration. Have patience and resist the urge to use a cheater bar (unless it's only a foot long).
Yup - had the TriFlow on it over night, then gave 'er. Crank is off. Maybe I just need a night's rest too.
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Old 04-05-21, 01:42 PM
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In the picture there is a square on top of a cap or nut, does that come off? I've not seen that one before.
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Old 04-05-21, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by davidad
In the picture there is a square on top of a cap or nut, does that come off? I've not seen that one before.
I think you're seeing the wrong perspective - flip it with your mind. The square part is actually a recessed hole, not a nut

Now that I saw it your way, it's hard to un-see it. haha.
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