Need help finding the year of this Kabuki CRMO-X12
#1
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Need help finding the year of this Kabuki CRMO-X12
I picked this bike up the other day and was looking for some info on the year. There is very little info on the web about it other than it was made by Bridgestone. It appears to be in good condition and original parts. Is this a good pick up or is it a low level road bike? Thanks
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It looks lie one of the later Kabukis, before they reverted back to the Bridgestone name, so late 1970s. Chrome-moly and cotterless cranks indicates a better model, but not the highest quality. Lube everything and ride, but not worth a lot.
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Four words: Check component date codes. Chasing bike serial numbers is generally a waste of time, far too many brands out there. Component codes are a lot easier.
Guess? 1980 +/- 2 years.
Depending on price paid, it could be a good pick up AND lower end. Its lower end regardless: straight gauge cromoly tubes, Silstar crank, low end Suntour FD, etc. When the tubing decal does not mention stays and fork, assume those are high ten steel.
Things to look for:
Higher end components: think Suntour Cyclone, Superbe, anything Campy.
700c wheels (many good bikes, especially touring bikes, came with 27 inch wheels).
Chrome stays.
Cast fork crown.
Alloy seat post and handlebars.
Double butted cromoly tubing.
Cromoly tubing decal on fork.
Branded forged drop outs.
Lighter weight (low 20s instead of high 20s).
Guess? 1980 +/- 2 years.
Depending on price paid, it could be a good pick up AND lower end. Its lower end regardless: straight gauge cromoly tubes, Silstar crank, low end Suntour FD, etc. When the tubing decal does not mention stays and fork, assume those are high ten steel.
Things to look for:
Higher end components: think Suntour Cyclone, Superbe, anything Campy.
700c wheels (many good bikes, especially touring bikes, came with 27 inch wheels).
Chrome stays.
Cast fork crown.
Alloy seat post and handlebars.
Double butted cromoly tubing.
Cromoly tubing decal on fork.
Branded forged drop outs.
Lighter weight (low 20s instead of high 20s).
Last edited by wrk101; 08-12-15 at 07:40 AM.
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I paid $100 for the bike....Not looking to flip so I plan to clean it up, replace the tires, tube and bar tape then ride it. Thanks for the info
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Others may tell you differently, but I think you did fine for your 100 clams. An 80's 'neutral' japan made bicycle, with clean lines and great finish (considering the years). It sports one of the most KA head badges EVER. Bikes of it's breed set the industry standards for sizes, diameters, standard parts, so upgrades are readily available. Chromo main tubes means you shaved a pound or so from a comparable bicycle frame made completely from high tensile steel tubing (butted would be nice, but doesn't make as big a weight jump as high tensile-to-chromo is). The crank, peddles, seat post, handlebar stem... all appear alloy construction. All functional without the worries of wearing out something "precious". Alloy wheels. I would ride that with a big grin on my face, because it's vintage goodness without the guilt or worry associated with riding a museum piece.
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Do the work yourself, be resourceful on acquiring consumables, and you did fine at $100.
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Forged dropouts? No turkey levers or stem shifters? Good paint and no rust? In the Portland market that would be $250.
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I see no indication of forged dropouts. I've never seen a Kabuki with them. Even the stainless Submariner has stamped dropouts.
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