bikamper

I had to get creative today to get a stubborn drive side BB cup out.


That's a Suzuki GS550 transmission gear and a 3/8" bolt keeping my cup wrench on the boggered up cup. The cup broke loose unexpectedly and I almost knocked the stand over.

Chuck M 

Careful. Don't knock it into that beautiful car.

Nemosengineer 

The 753OS Land Shark build is complete and runs like a Swiss watch.

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike

Prowler 

BTDT. Now when the torque forces get really high I take the bike down and work on the floor. I have a rubber mat in front of the work bench so put the frame there and lean on the tool or even the pipe that’s on the tool. I’d much rather, if the fittings going to “break loose”, have the tool moving towards that rubber mat vs towards me or something breakable.

bikamper

I'd already turned the stand 90 degrees for that reason. There's a nice dent in the passenger side fender from a camp stove falling off a shelf. Still sick about that.

Kai Winters

Nothing much lately...only at the bike shop sporadically as it is winter in northern ny. I've recently built an Aethos with Ultegra 12 speed Di2...came out great.
I barely work on my bike...sigh...Di2 requires no maintenance and a waxed chain only gets replaced with another one once a month...compared to fiddling about with my old Ultegra mech system and oil based lubes on a weekly or so basis just because...it is actually a bit boring but i'm not complaining lol my bike works flawlessly, is near dead quiet and only needs a 'dusting and polishing' now and then to keep her happy is a loverly thing indeed.
So I've built an SWorks SL8 with Dura Ace Di2 12 speed and an Aethos with Ultegra Di2 12 speed and comparing the drives to my Di2 105 system on my Aethos...no difference at all...I can not feel any difference shifting any of the bikes and i've tweaked the drives to the same level of my Aethos...no synchro at all. So i've basically got a top of the line drive on my Aethos at a very low cost and as long as i'm not looking at it...lol...i have Dura Ace...love it...

curbtender

Got me thinking...

SurferRosa

You even put thought into the bottles. Every detail. The way it should be done.

abshipp 

My Grand Jubile has been a single speed or fixed gear the entire time I’ve owned it.

I finally built a 120mm 5 speed freewheel wheelset for it and installed its namesake derailleur.

Shimano 60 FD since I haven’t gotten around to tracking down a matching front.

VintageSteelEU

Wouldn't call it wrenching. Measuring and checking options.
I was looking for a BB I can use with SR Royal ESL crankset. Two requirements: 1. unless I decide to use a totally different frame, I need Swiss threading. 2. SR Royal ESL requires 112mm (or therabout) ISO taper BB.
Swiss threading is easier. IRD still makes their Swiss threaded cups (for now) and once in a while one can find Swiss threaded BB's with a bit of luck. Got a set of cups, but unfortunately IRD's bottom brackets are JIS. As are most cartridge bottom brackets out there. A perfect solution would be to find SR, old fashioned, cup and cone BB with Swiss threading,112mm spindle and ISO taper, but I'm guessing I have a higher chance of buing a winning lottery ticket
I found out that Tifosi make their "Carbon" BB with ISO taper and close enough spindle length (111mm). That's 0.5mm too short on each side, which shouldn't be too much of an issue (especially with friction shifting). So I got myself one and decided to try IRD cups with it. Looks like it might work. My rubbish digital caliper shows internal diameter of both adjustable cups as 30.6mm. IRD one feels a bit looser on the BB, but the Tifosi one is not exactly snug, so I'm guessing this should be fine. Fixed IRD cup internal diameter 30.4mm, but the Tifosi one is very snug and I didn't remove it yet. It might be a few months before I actually get to test this combo in an actual frame, but I decided to post it here in case anyone out there is looking for Swiss threaded BB options and is willing to try it.
I still don't know how I feel about IRD cups having no seal, so that's something to look into. I'm planning some maintenance on the bicycle where I use IRD bottom bracket, so I will check whether they put something between the bearing cartridge and the cup (simply don't remember at this stage). But this might take me closer to actually pushing forward with the Motobecane Superbe project. I mean I still have some parts to find or decide on (stem, handlebar, brake calipers) and build a wheelset for it, but thankfully there's no rush.


IRD Swiss NDS cup (no seal) and Tifosi NDS cup (with seal0

Cup sizes are basically the same

IRD cups (both sides) and Tifosi NDS (with seal)

Nemosengineer 

Thank you very much, coming from you this means a lot.

: Mike

Nemosengineer 

I really like the " Los Angeles Wheelmen" sticker. A lot of history there and my home town

"Known as the "Los Angeles Wheelman Club and formed in the summer of 1882'

https://calisphere.org/item/e4606aa1...d16c5ea8252cf/

Mike

tcs

Uh, perhaps "League of American Wheelmen", founded 1880?

spclark 

Your factory paint job & decals look Just Like my '72 Grand Record's. Thanks for posting!
I thought maybe I'd done something I shouldn't have with storage in all the years since.

Nemosengineer 

You are absolutely correct, I misidentified the league logo. They are fairly similar.




: Mike

sd5782 

Working on wheels and gearing on my 1983 Trek 700. The stock low flange Campy hubs with 13-20 rims were fine with a freewheel and 32mm Gravel Kings, but I didn’t like the looks. I came into some nice Shimano wheels with Uniglide 6 speed freehub and Mavic G40 rims. Some NOS Super Champion 58 rims were used to replace the skinnier Mavics and only 1mm larger in ERD. The 32s look more appropriate on the 58 rims.

The wheel change was to get the freehub. I converted the Uniglide to the Uniglide/Hyperglide compatible freehub, and can now run 7 speeds. I have a box of Uniglide cogs and got a co-op 8 speed cluster to use the spacers. This all allowed me to build a 7 speed uniglide with gears spaced at just slightly under 5mm. I bet it would even index, but the Suntour power ratchet shifters shifts it wonderfully. Building my own cluster got me 15-17-19-21-23-26-30 and a 36-47 front. Nice for an old guy in flattish terrain who doesn’t need high speed.

MrGastrognome

Oof! I managed to post this to the wrong thread yesterday...
What I had mistakenly started as a quick upgrade turned into a month and a half of downtime. Finally thanks to the CV for sale forum, fleabay and Koolstop, I've got new(er) and improved braking. Third set of calipers was a charm: it turns out the America doesn't have enough clearance for 32mm tires and dual pivot calipers. Updated the levers for spring return and aero hoods, added Blue Lug's variation of Nitto/Riv Mark's rack.

Next up: attach a head badge, get a ride in to confirm lever position, wrap bars and order a bag for the front rack.

SJX426 

@Nemosengineer - What bars are on the Land Shark? Look similar to Cinelli 65s. I like


Playing around with accent colors. Going to try blue too. More appropriate for Campangolo parts and the blue on the frame.
PXL_20231123_140537905 on Flickr

VintageSteelEU

I have a Suntour variant of these calipers (Superbe 4700) on one bicycle and I find them very effective. And I didn't get round to replace the pads yet (so the ones I'm using are about... 40 years old now, unless they were replaced, because they had barely any wear). They squeal like all demons, so perhaps I should replace them finally... I wouldn't say they are worse than dual pivot brakes I used to date (Tektro, Shimano, Miche).

MrGastrognome

Didn't have an opportunity to try them with stock pads as they came without them but I had two sets of Koolstop DA on hand and I'm very happy with the response. The DiaCompe 500 G they replaced were far too mushy. A near miss on a right hook on my commute a while ago was the wake up call that I needed to improve braking. Just a couple of short spins around the neighborhood this afternoon and my confidence in this bike is greatly improved.

I got the head badge attached and the first layer of bar tape wrapped. I have to order some shellac flakes so I'm ready to finish the wrap when I return from out of state for the holidays with some contraband denatured alcohol.

Nemosengineer 

Hi SJX426,
The bars are Nitto B125AA NJS Approved Track Handlebar - 40cm, 25.4mm clamp. The bend is identical to the Cinelli 65, verified by direct comparison.

20200718_132054 by nemosengineer, on Flickr

20200718_132153 by nemosengineer, on Flickr

20200718_132222 by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike

gaucho777 

I love your Landshark! Also where’d you get those water bottles? Hoping they might still be available for my Look.

merziac

Those are Silca's, looks like plenty to be had.

https://silca.cc/collections/accesso...n-water-bottle

gaucho777 

Thanks @merziac

jamesdak 

Had a little medical setback that also interfered a bit with recovering from the knee replacement. But, I think I'm ready to move on from the Azor so I went ahead and got the Holdsworth set up for whatever use I can get out of it this winter. So far serious snow has held off. Anyway, this morning I took the tubular setup back off the bike and put on the clincher setup. Easier to quickly deal with flats that may happen with the cold weather rides. Messed with the headset adjustment some too as it was notching at one point.



I may have to try a few different saddles to see what's going to work best in a more upright position.