What is the best Gravel Bike deal with hydro brakes and a compact crankset?
#1
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What is the best Gravel Bike deal with hydro brakes and a compact crankset?
A friend of mine wants a lightweight aluminum or carbon gravel bike with Shimano 105 or Tiagra, hydraulic disc brakes, thru-axles and tubeless ready rims for less than $2000.
What's out there?
What's out there?
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When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
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The Fuji Jari 1.3 hits almost all your requirements for $1600. It is missing true hydraulic discs instead coming with TRP HY/RD.
Fuji Bikes | Jari 1.3
Fuji Bikes | Jari 1.3
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Performance has the GT Grade at $1,750 with Force 22. It's everything on your list except the rear wheel has a QR, not a TA.
#4
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Seems weirdly hard to find lively bikes with all those boxes checked off. Like, Sequoia Elite has all those features, but it's starting to slip in the slacker and beefier adventure/touring direction.
Last edited by HTupolev; 11-01-17 at 10:36 AM.
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If he'll go for SRAM, Raleigh has the Stuntman at $1299 and the Roker Comp at $1739. Diamondback has the Haanjo Trail with RS685 for $1454.99, Haanjo Comp with Hydro Apex and 1x for $1094.99.
Friends don't let friends ride Tiagra Hydro
Friends don't let friends ride Tiagra Hydro
#6
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folks like what they are used to, but once they try something else (maybe better), they realize it is ok.
esp. with gravel riding, i appreciate the solid feel and tactile feedback of SRAM over Shimano.
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@motorthings ^^^
I'll never use SRAM road stuff again after having used Force 22 hydro. The only good thing about my bike being stolen is that I got to go back to using Shimano. I could give you a list of things I hated about using SRAM, but I'd rather not dredge up bad memories.
I'll never use SRAM road stuff again after having used Force 22 hydro. The only good thing about my bike being stolen is that I got to go back to using Shimano. I could give you a list of things I hated about using SRAM, but I'd rather not dredge up bad memories.
#8
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@motorthings ^^^
I'll never use SRAM road stuff again after having used Force 22 hydro. The only good thing about my bike being stolen is that I got to go back to using Shimano. I could give you a list of things I hated about using SRAM, but I'd rather not dredge up bad memories.
I'll never use SRAM road stuff again after having used Force 22 hydro. The only good thing about my bike being stolen is that I got to go back to using Shimano. I could give you a list of things I hated about using SRAM, but I'd rather not dredge up bad memories.
#9
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The Fuji Jari 1.3 hits almost all your requirements for $1600. It is missing true hydraulic discs instead coming with TRP HY/RD.
Fuji Bikes | Jari 1.3
Fuji Bikes | Jari 1.3
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 11-01-17 at 05:29 PM.
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in all my years, i've never seen anyone not like SRAM after trying it.
folks like what they are used to, but once they try something else (maybe better), they realize it is ok.
esp. with gravel riding, i appreciate the solid feel and tactile feedback of SRAM over Shimano.
folks like what they are used to, but once they try something else (maybe better), they realize it is ok.
esp. with gravel riding, i appreciate the solid feel and tactile feedback of SRAM over Shimano.
#11
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i gotta agree with you on the size of the brifters.
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I feel like 1x is SRAM's copout answer to making an FD that works. I know that's not completely fair, but still.
And I started out with no opinion about SRAM except that Red is impressively light. I expected that Force would be equal to Ultegra in terms of how well it works, and that wasn't my experience at all.
And I started out with no opinion about SRAM except that Red is impressively light. I expected that Force would be equal to Ultegra in terms of how well it works, and that wasn't my experience at all.
#13
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I've used very little SRAM stuff, but from what I have used, my impressions haven't been good.
Within my current stable, the only SRAM is the X4 groupset on my hardtail. It's the only modern rear shifting I've ever used that I haven't been able to get to work well. I can get it fine on the stand, but no matter what I do, it has issues in the real world. Shifts will frequently clank and balk, and occasionally have slippage. The trigger shifters are also pretty tense, my thumbs can get uncomfortable on longer rides.
I've also tried out a friend's bike with etap. It worked fine I guess, but didn't feel very good. The buttons seemed sort of gooey and lifeless. The shifting actuation itself was weirdly sluggish. The split shift interface meant that my hands seemed to have a bit less freedom of positioning than they do when using Shimano or Campy, i.e. I'd need to have both hands moving around when making alternate-direction rear shifts in relatively quick succession.
Within my current stable, the only SRAM is the X4 groupset on my hardtail. It's the only modern rear shifting I've ever used that I haven't been able to get to work well. I can get it fine on the stand, but no matter what I do, it has issues in the real world. Shifts will frequently clank and balk, and occasionally have slippage. The trigger shifters are also pretty tense, my thumbs can get uncomfortable on longer rides.
I've also tried out a friend's bike with etap. It worked fine I guess, but didn't feel very good. The buttons seemed sort of gooey and lifeless. The shifting actuation itself was weirdly sluggish. The split shift interface meant that my hands seemed to have a bit less freedom of positioning than they do when using Shimano or Campy, i.e. I'd need to have both hands moving around when making alternate-direction rear shifts in relatively quick succession.
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OP's question was out the window after the 5th post. LoL.
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In the interest of getting back to the OP's question, I was in the same boat a couple of months ago and decided on the Jamis Renegade Exploit. It's steel and is at the top end of your price range, but still feels lively and has a 105 hydro kit and carbon under your hands and butt. I ended up getting a 2016 carbon Expert, however, when the shop owner offered it to me for $100 less than he could get me the Exploit. It's the same bike except for the frame, which makes it 2.75# lighter and certainly snappier. I was inclined to get a steel bike, as I felt like it would stand the test of time better than carbon and would offer a much nicer ride than alloy. I'd be happy with either, but I'm thrilled with the deal I got, and if I ever suffer buyer's remorse, it will only be because I didn't keep the rubber side down and broke the frame, and then, I'll wish I had gotten the Exploit.
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Might check out bikesdirect. They have several bikes that fit the bill:
Save Up To 60% Off New Gravel and Cyclocross and Gravel Bicycles from bikesdirect.com. Great for commuting, racing or just having fun riding most anywhere.
Obviously this route involves ordering a bike from the internet...I’ve bought a bike from BD and had no issues. (Still, I wouldn’t recommend for anyone uncomfortable with doing a little assembly/tuning themselves)
Save Up To 60% Off New Gravel and Cyclocross and Gravel Bicycles from bikesdirect.com. Great for commuting, racing or just having fun riding most anywhere.
Obviously this route involves ordering a bike from the internet...I’ve bought a bike from BD and had no issues. (Still, I wouldn’t recommend for anyone uncomfortable with doing a little assembly/tuning themselves)
#17
Senior Member
Mongoose Selous Comp at Amazon. Some sizes are $500-$700 if you time it right. Tiagra, TL ready, thru axle and TRP HYD/RD (not full hyd but close). Weight on the medium is ~ 25. Nashbar had some earlier in the year but not anymore.
Amazon is really strange with Mongoose pricing. They drop like a rock after a month when there is one left in stock and price goes way up after someone buys that one.
They had The Selous Expert with 105 and full hyd brakes for under 700 last week but now back up out of range. Well equipped bikes when at the lower prices, not so much for the full retail.
I have a Selous Comp. I bent both front and rear ders (not Mongoose or Shimano fault, my fault) and swapped them out for a Deore MTB der and an SLX cassette with a larger 34 tooth and have been problem free for 2500 miles. Road, gravel, single track, trails etc, I even strapped on a rack and bags and did a 4 day C&O/Allegheny passage gravel tour on it.
Amazon is really strange with Mongoose pricing. They drop like a rock after a month when there is one left in stock and price goes way up after someone buys that one.
They had The Selous Expert with 105 and full hyd brakes for under 700 last week but now back up out of range. Well equipped bikes when at the lower prices, not so much for the full retail.
I have a Selous Comp. I bent both front and rear ders (not Mongoose or Shimano fault, my fault) and swapped them out for a Deore MTB der and an SLX cassette with a larger 34 tooth and have been problem free for 2500 miles. Road, gravel, single track, trails etc, I even strapped on a rack and bags and did a 4 day C&O/Allegheny passage gravel tour on it.
Last edited by u235; 11-02-17 at 05:09 PM.
#19
Senior Member
don't poke the bear!
btw - my point, which i failed to make in my original post here, was that getting too stuck on one part of the requirements can really limit the options available. certain functional requirements are understood, but to get too brand specific is often short-sighted. i have found brands i liked simply by chance (pedals, cranks, groupsets, handlebars, saddles, etc), that are better than what i originally knew or liked.
btw - my point, which i failed to make in my original post here, was that getting too stuck on one part of the requirements can really limit the options available. certain functional requirements are understood, but to get too brand specific is often short-sighted. i have found brands i liked simply by chance (pedals, cranks, groupsets, handlebars, saddles, etc), that are better than what i originally knew or liked.
#20
Senior Member
Might check out bikesdirect. They have several bikes that fit the bill:
Save Up To 60% Off New Gravel and Cyclocross and Gravel Bicycles from bikesdirect.com. Great for commuting, racing or just having fun riding most anywhere.
Obviously this route involves ordering a bike from the internet...I’ve bought a bike from BD and had no issues. (Still, I wouldn’t recommend for anyone uncomfortable with doing a little assembly/tuning themselves)
Save Up To 60% Off New Gravel and Cyclocross and Gravel Bicycles from bikesdirect.com. Great for commuting, racing or just having fun riding most anywhere.
Obviously this route involves ordering a bike from the internet...I’ve bought a bike from BD and had no issues. (Still, I wouldn’t recommend for anyone uncomfortable with doing a little assembly/tuning themselves)
#21
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don't poke the bear!
btw - my point, which i failed to make in my original post here, was that getting too stuck on one part of the requirements can really limit the options available. certain functional requirements are understood, but to get too brand specific is often short-sighted. i have found brands i liked simply by chance (pedals, cranks, groupsets, handlebars, saddles, etc), that are better than what i originally knew or liked.
btw - my point, which i failed to make in my original post here, was that getting too stuck on one part of the requirements can really limit the options available. certain functional requirements are understood, but to get too brand specific is often short-sighted. i have found brands i liked simply by chance (pedals, cranks, groupsets, handlebars, saddles, etc), that are better than what i originally knew or liked.
#22
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I've used very little SRAM stuff, but from what I have used, my impressions haven't been good.
Within my current stable, the only SRAM is the X4 groupset on my hardtail. It's the only modern rear shifting I've ever used that I haven't been able to get to work well. I can get it fine on the stand, but no matter what I do, it has issues in the real world. Shifts will frequently clank and balk, and occasionally have slippage. The trigger shifters are also pretty tense, my thumbs can get uncomfortable on longer rides.
I've also tried out a friend's bike with etap. It worked fine I guess, but didn't feel very good. The buttons seemed sort of gooey and lifeless. The shifting actuation itself was weirdly sluggish. The split shift interface meant that my hands seemed to have a bit less freedom of positioning than they do when using Shimano or Campy, i.e. I'd need to have both hands moving around when making alternate-direction rear shifts in relatively quick succession.
Within my current stable, the only SRAM is the X4 groupset on my hardtail. It's the only modern rear shifting I've ever used that I haven't been able to get to work well. I can get it fine on the stand, but no matter what I do, it has issues in the real world. Shifts will frequently clank and balk, and occasionally have slippage. The trigger shifters are also pretty tense, my thumbs can get uncomfortable on longer rides.
I've also tried out a friend's bike with etap. It worked fine I guess, but didn't feel very good. The buttons seemed sort of gooey and lifeless. The shifting actuation itself was weirdly sluggish. The split shift interface meant that my hands seemed to have a bit less freedom of positioning than they do when using Shimano or Campy, i.e. I'd need to have both hands moving around when making alternate-direction rear shifts in relatively quick succession.
You can easily put buttons (blips) on the bar to give the rider multiple hand positions with shifting. I got some on the tops.
I couldn't get along with Shimano's di2 because I kept hitting the wrong shift button or accidentally actuated a shift. It happened to me enough to become really frustrating, especially when I use full finger gloves. The etap doesn't present that problem. Setup on the etap is so easy too.
But yeah, I find their mechanical stuff to be lacking.
#23
Full Member
Niner RLT 9 2-star build (SRAM Apex 1) on sale at Jenson for $1,600.
Niner RLT 2 Star Apex 1 Bike | Jenson USA
Niner RLT 2 Star Apex 1 Bike | Jenson USA
#24
Banned
< insert brand favoritism opinion here>
Multi brand OEM factories are all on the far side of the pacific.
they make the bikes and ship them, cannot test ride an internet opinion, I suggest patronizing a bike shop.
they will help you after the sale. you go to Chicago to buy bikes?
....
Multi brand OEM factories are all on the far side of the pacific.
they make the bikes and ship them, cannot test ride an internet opinion, I suggest patronizing a bike shop.
they will help you after the sale. you go to Chicago to buy bikes?
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-08-17 at 04:07 PM.
#25
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A little bit over budget but it's relatively light, Shimano 105, carbon and TA... So it ticks all boxes except price!!!Devinci Hatchet Carbon 105 Road Bike 2017 - bikesale.com