wardie

I am wanting to install a compact crank on my 2007 Giant TCR-1 carbon. Im a decent mechanic but not in the ways of bicycle components. Can anyone share what Shimano or FSA crank and part number would fit?

veganbikes

Just about any road compact should work with the correct bottom bracket assuming it is the correct number of "speeds". Is there something particular you are looking for? Do you have 9, 10, 11 speeds? If so get the appropriate crank for the number of gears at the back (though generally 10/11 can be swapped around easily and you could probably even run 9 speed if you had to) I would probably go with a nice 105 crank or if you really love the bike get a nice R30 crank from White Industries and get the gear ratio that works for you. You will likely need a different BB but you can find those easily enough so long as you know what standard Giant used on that bike.

choddo

Think Giant used a Shimano pressfit BB on that so a 105 would be a straight swap-in but it should have come with an Ultegra crank so 105 would be a downgrade (recall issues aside) - what year bike is it? Probably an 11 speed with a 52/36 on the front. You can just swap the chainrings for 50/34 which also ain’t cheap, especially the 50. Bear in mind the front mech should be moved down slightly when you enshrinken the chainrings, but I did a 52-> 50 change recently and didn’t bother, as it’s such a small difference and I plan to refit a 52 at some point. Also, if yours are in relatively good shape, they’re in demand and you could make back a decent percentage.

wardie

my tcr uses a threaded bb
can anyone suggest a bb that would fit my 06-07 TCR composite ?

icemilkcoffee 

There is no need to mess with the bottom bracket at all. Did your bike come with the Shimano 105 5600 groupset? In that case you can just swap out your FC5600 crankset and replace it with the FC5650 compact crankset. It's from that same generation so your bike would still be wearing an intact groupset.

Iride01 

It'd be a big help if you can tell us what is in it already. The actual part number is likely on the backside of the crank arm. Many times around the hole for the pedals. The easiest swap will be to use a crank that can use the current BB. Though that's not always possible depending on what's in there already and what you desire.

deacon mark

You have a thread bottom bracket the best case scenario and can simply use a current Shimano 105 crank. In fact if it is a 10 speed crank you could even get a new 11 speed 105 and it will work fine. Then if you ever decide to go 11 you are already one step ahead. The new stuff shifts great, and I am a bit proponent of exernal bearing BB and shimano cranks. They work great and last forever.

cpach

You can put nearly any crank in a BSA bottom bracket shell. Don't worry about reusing your existing bottom bracket. What's actually important to know is what the rest of the drivetrain is. Given the era you probably are running 9 or 10 speed. Basic recommendations would be current generation Sora for 9 speed, and current generation Tiagra for 10 speed with matching Hollowtech II bottom bracket. You can go more exotic than that but nothing will shift better or have better spindle tolerances.

tFUnK

The TCRs I've had from that era had regular threaded external cup BBs. You can use the same one if that's what's on there, or get any other external cup threaded BB, and run a 24mm spindle crank. Ultegra 6600, 6700 were the ones I've had back then but I don't believe the spindles changed with more modern Shimano cranks. I run SRAM and SRAM GXP would work as well but you'll need a SRAM compatible BB as the NDS spindle is 22mm.

wardie

i bought the 2007 TCR-1 composite bare frame only fork and handbars were included

I just bpught a bbr 60 shimano outboard bearing 68mm that screws into bottom bracket

I have wheels, fd and rd just need a compact crank and shifters

Iride01 

Since you have the SM-BBR60 already, then you are pretty much going to need to use a Shimano Hollowtech II, 2 piece crank from the road bike groups set. Maybe others from the MTN bike groups will work, but another member will have to confirm that.

BB's are inexpensive though so you still can get most any crank that has a BSA threaded BB for it. Try to keep the crank in the same speed group that you are going to use on the rear cassette. Though you do have some leeway between say a 10 and 11 speed crank or a 9 to lower speed crank. Some FSA cranks might work with that BBR60, but I don't know that for a fact.

You ought to figure out what you want it to be before you buy pieces parts. If you just buy willy nilly, you might have a lot of stuff that doesn't quite work well together. I'd probably get the number of speeds on the rear figured out and then decide what STI's, RD and FD will handle that before deciding on a crank set.

frdfandc

MTB cranks will not work on a road bike. Q factor is totally different. MTB is much wider.

choddo

Can’t you use 7.5mm of spacers to sort that? Not that I’d personally want a mtb crank on a road bike.

frdfandc

You could, but the chain line will not work. MTB is again too wide. Shifting will be impossible to tune. Now I know that some touring bikes use MTB components, but the those frames are designed for thatt.

Iride01 

I'd have to say you are wrong. While not all cranksets in the MTB category will work, some will. Shimano makes quite a few that work in 68 mm BB shells.

Chain line possibly might be off a few millimeters. Which may or may not be a big issue. Q factor is only the distance between the crank arms and is typically not considered a big deal. Other than mountain bike cranks will likely have a wider Q to miss the chain stays that typically are wider on some mountain bikes.

The difference in Q on the Shimano DEORE XT HOLLOWTECH II MTB Crankset 2x11-speed and my 105 5800 2x11 crankset is only 2 mm.

Welcome to BF!

frdfandc

Thank you for the correction, I learned something new today. And thank you for the welcome.

Iride01 

I learned a lot too when I was new here. Still am. Chain line between the two cranks is different. But spacers included with the BB-MT800 might make that up.

I might still get schooled in this thread by some of the real bike mechanics that are in here. I just DIY.

frdfandc

The last shop I worked at was a Giant dealer. Really wanted to love the job, learned a lot in the short time I was there, but I just couldn't. Too much BS everyday. Super slow service wise. They only service Giant bicycles. Nothing else. Which killed their service department. At the Trek shop I worked at, we worked on everything. They are still 3 weeks out for service. Also the manager was a younger woman around the age of 28, who thought she had to prove everyday that she was my boss.