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Good wheels or di2?

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Good wheels or di2?

Old 05-18-18, 10:02 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
I understand what you are saying, but I think most people that are saying “get Di2”, are looking at this from the perspective that either way, an upgrade is likely in the future. It’s far easier to get a great price on a wheelset later, and it’s a simple upgrade.
On a second point your line of arguments is not worth my time of day so I'll have to reiterate the point. You seem to want to spend a lot of money and not gain any understanding or advantage from the amount of money you spend. This is a very poor philosophy to live by. At least if you want to spend money on "high end" vs. "not high end" components on bikes you should get some understanding of the benefits and the detractors from spending more money or otherwise your just the next person that your bike shop is going to say... "want a shiny new bike?" like a pigeon is to a chip every time you walk in a bike store.

More expensive or lighter weight wheels will spin up faster as there is less mass for the rider to get moving. The bike will also "feel" lighter over your shoulder (but this is not the CX forum). They will also feel lighter on the road and more responsive initially but that will be short lived experience and a relative feeling. Once you are up to speed there will be no difference at all. Then, when you let off the power they will spin down faster than the heavier wheels. We have to remember Newton's first law of motion here. Slight faster accelerations is all but a small part of any ride. Carrying your bike over your shoulder is all but a short lived experience before you get to the start line on your bike You will have less weight to carry up hills, but this is balanced by the fact that once you're rolling you will work harder to keep them rolling. These are the facts. If you've got decent aluminium clinchers thats all the average rider whether casual or club level ever really needs. If you never plan on racing then durability of heavier components with more metal in them in general is more beneficial to you as a rider than any lighter weight or more shiny components. People greater than myself have measured the differences of shiny new wheels, they might feel quicker initially and be a bit more nimble in turning (not everyone likes this) but they will not make your bike faster in any sense beyond the initial point of acceleration. In homage to Elvis... You can do what you want but step off that argument about shiny new shoes....

You will get a ridiculously small advantage (if at all) from shiny new shoes, you will get a significant advantage with DI2 bikes. While you have wasted your time pulling your shifter trigger three times to go through 9 gears. I will have pressed the button on my DI2 shifters once and I will never have to be worried about being in the wrong gear. Neither will I have to worry about ever dropping a chain even if I am cross chaining while going up hill and mashing the pedals. If you say that there is no advantage to DI2 then you don't have the first clue about what you're talking about on the matter.

I don't need to get into phallus arguments about who can spend more money on a groupset.

Last edited by 1500SLR; 05-18-18 at 10:08 PM.
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Old 05-18-18, 11:09 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post
On a second point your line of arguments is not worth my time of day so I'll have to reiterate the point. You seem to want to spend a lot of money and not gain any understanding or advantage from the amount of money you spend. This is a very poor philosophy to live by. At least if you want to spend money on "high end" vs. "not high end" components on bikes you should get some understanding of the benefits and the detractors from spending more money or otherwise your just the next person that your bike shop is going to say... "want a shiny new bike?" like a pigeon is to a chip every time you walk in a bike store.

More expensive or lighter weight wheels will spin up faster as there is less mass for the rider to get moving. The bike will also "feel" lighter over your shoulder (but this is not the CX forum). They will also feel lighter on the road and more responsive initially but that will be short lived experience and a relative feeling. Once you are up to speed there will be no difference at all. Then, when you let off the power they will spin down faster than the heavier wheels. We have to remember Newton's first law of motion here. Slight faster accelerations is all but a small part of any ride. Carrying your bike over your shoulder is all but a short lived experience before you get to the start line on your bike You will have less weight to carry up hills, but this is balanced by the fact that once you're rolling you will work harder to keep them rolling. These are the facts. If you've got decent aluminium clinchers thats all the average rider whether casual or club level ever really needs. If you never plan on racing then durability of heavier components with more metal in them in general is more beneficial to you as a rider than any lighter weight or more shiny components. People greater than myself have measured the differences of shiny new wheels, they might feel quicker initially and be a bit more nimble in turning (not everyone likes this) but they will not make your bike faster in any sense beyond the initial point of acceleration. In homage to Elvis... You can do what you want but step off that argument about shiny new shoes....

You will get a ridiculously small advantage (if at all) from shiny new shoes, you will get a significant advantage with DI2 bikes. While you have wasted your time pulling your shifter trigger three times to go through 9 gears. I will have pressed the button on my DI2 shifters once and I will never have to be worried about being in the wrong gear. Neither will I have to worry about ever dropping a chain even if I am cross chaining while going up hill and mashing the pedals. If you say that there is no advantage to DI2 then you don't have the first clue about what you're talking about on the matter.

I don't need to get into phallus arguments about who can spend more money on a groupset.
What a bunch of rubbish. Do you think you are getting paid by the word?
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Old 05-18-18, 11:25 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post
After swapping to DI2 on my bike, its always DI2 first before anything and everything else. You can crunch your gears, you can cross chain while going up hill standing on the pedals and change gears. You wont drop a chain. You can mash all you like. You will no drop a chain, the derailleurs are stronger than you are. You don't have to worry about it anymore.
Mechanical shifting groupsets will allow this too.
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Old 05-19-18, 03:39 AM
  #29  
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Di2 and itís not close for me. Itís the single best upgrade Iíve made.
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Old 05-19-18, 03:51 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
What a bunch of rubbish. Do you think you are getting paid by the word?
You want to rubbish me and provide no insight other than "spend more money' and "buy shiny new bike parts and bikes"

OK, I get you.

Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
Mechanical shifting groupsets will allow this too.
Forgive me for asking but do you even own an electronic shifting bike? I can pres one button and go through all 10 gears at once if I really want to. (I could have gone through all 11 if I decided to use 6870 derailleurs (that's another thing, you don't get the point of anything I do). The fact that you believe you can keep up and stay in the most efficient gear as easily is even more funny.

I like arguing with you because you say things that are ridiculous all the time. Keep it up. Do you want another shiny new bike? The vast majority of people here agree with me that a DI2 groupset would be far beter value for money than a set of shint new wheels. I'm no sure what your problem is even after I've bothered to explain to you that shiny new wheels probably won't make you a better rider. You make yourself a better rider and it will take at least a couple years before you get anywhere near needing shiny new bike parts once you've got a halfway decent bike.

Last edited by 1500SLR; 05-19-18 at 04:10 AM.
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Old 05-19-18, 07:21 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post
You want to rubbish me and provide no insight other than "spend more money' and "buy shiny new bike parts and bikes".
Excuse me, but when did I say "spend more money" or "buy shiny new bike parts and bikes"?
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Old 05-19-18, 07:28 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post



Forgive me for asking but do you even own an electronic shifting bike?
I owned a 7970 bike, but later gave that groupset to my SO when she completed her first Ironman, and I own a bike with 9070.
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Old 05-19-18, 07:33 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post
I like arguing with you because you say things that are ridiculous all the time.
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Old 05-19-18, 07:48 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post

I like arguing with you because you say things that are ridiculous all the time. Keep it up..
Apparently, you didn't learn anything during your "time out".
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Old 05-19-18, 07:53 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post
The vast majority of people here agree with me that a DI2 groupset would be far beter value for money than a set of shint new wheels. I'm no sure what your problem is even after I've bothered to explain to you that shiny new wheels probably won't make you a better rider. You make yourself a better rider and it will take at least a couple years before you get anywhere near needing shiny new bike parts once you've got a halfway decent bike.
Your reading comprehension skills need improvement,

My 1st post in this thread was to agree with WhyFi's statement.

Originally Posted by WhyFi View Post
I'd do the Di2 first and upgrade the wheels later. A) much easier upgrade B) It's always nice to have a spare wheelset around.
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Old 05-19-18, 08:08 AM
  #36  
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I've learned what to say and what not to say to people like you.

Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
Your reading comprehension skills need improvement,

My 1st post in this thread was to agree with WhyFi's statement.


Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
it’s insane, isn’t it?

Di2 is nice, but it’s absolutely unnecessary.
Really, tell me how that agrees with the majority of people here that say they would choose a DI2 option over a new wheel set...
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Old 05-19-18, 08:13 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post
Really, tell me how that agrees with the majority of people here that say they would choose a DI2 option over a new wheel set...
Read post #10

while you're re-reading that post, look for the one where I recommended choosing the wheelset over Di2. Don't reply until you find it.
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Old 05-19-18, 08:20 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
Read post #10

while you're re-reading that post, look for the one where I recommended choosing the wheelset over Di2. Don't reply until you find it.
THen why contradict yourself? This is another reason why I overlooked your post and why you're on my ignore list.
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Old 05-19-18, 08:29 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post
THen why contradict yourself?
Di2 is absolutely unnecessary, but the original question asked...

Originally Posted by fujiraf View Post
New road bike.What would you choose between components. Cheap wheels & electronic shifting di2(r8050), or, good alu wheels 50mm profile ,rotor crankset, but with mechanical old ultegra (6800) Both bikes same geometry.
Thanks.
I'd take Di2, because upgrading the wheels in the future, would be far easier than upgrading to Di2.
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Old 05-19-18, 08:36 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post
I've learned what to say
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Old 05-19-18, 09:44 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post
I like arguing with you because you say things that are ridiculous all the time.
Is this a typo? Did you mean to write:

"I like arguing with you because I say things that are ridiculous all the time."

I'm no sure what your problem is even after I've bothered to explain to you that shiny new wheels probably won't make you a better rider. You make yourself a better rider and it will take at least a couple years before you get anywhere near needing shiny new bike parts once you've got a halfway decent bike.
New wheels won't make you a better rider but electronic shifting will? Awesome.
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Old 05-19-18, 09:48 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe View Post
Is this a typo? Did you mean to write:

"I like arguing with you because I say things that are ridiculous all the time."



New wheels won't make you a better rider but electronic shifting will? Awesome.
Electronic shifting will improve anybodies shifting ability that's not really a matter that can be contested. I already addressed the issue with wheels. Go back and read my previous response please I can't be bothered restating it.
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Old 05-19-18, 09:53 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post
Go back and read my previous response please I can't be bothered restating it.
Thank you.
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Old 05-19-18, 12:29 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe View Post
is this a typo? Did you mean to write:

"i like arguing with you because i say things that are ridiculous all the time."
potd
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Old 05-19-18, 02:53 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by 1500SLR View Post
Electronic shifting will improve anybodies shifting ability that's not really a matter that can be contested
So if I used Di2, I wouldnít have stalled at Cat3? Damn!
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Old 05-19-18, 03:02 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by NILS14 View Post
The Campagnolo Bullet Ultra weigh 1,590g total

Yes, it's a carbon rim with an aluminium braking track

The Dura Ace C60 weigh 1,851g

Normally, I would go wheels first actually...I don't spend my time shifting. I do spend 100% of my time on the wheels though. However, in this particular instance, I wouldn't care about the Rotor crankset, Shimano's fine with me, so in that regard, I would find better value in getting the di2 bike then upgrading the wheels later on. I'd probably stick with a shallower profile too. That's personal preference.
Be aware the Shimano hub version of the Bullet Ultra's are more like 100g heavier, so realistically expect a mid 1700g wheelset with rim tape. That's a realistic nominal weight for most carbon fairing/aluminum track sets. I owned Dura Ace C50's, they advertised 1640g...and my actual weight with rim tape was nipping at 1900grams.

I would put this off longer and re-evaluate later. You may want a tubeless option to really help shave weight.

My vote goes to Di2.

Last edited by Esthetic; 05-19-18 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 05-19-18, 03:03 PM
  #47  
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Oh My, somebody got up on the wrong side of their BS-USA bed... this week... again.....
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Old 05-19-18, 03:39 PM
  #48  
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Di2 for me. There's excellent wheels for low prices out there but there's no cheap di2 replacement.
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Old 05-19-18, 05:54 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by gurk700 View Post
Di2 for me. There's excellent wheels for low prices out there but there's no cheap di2 replacement.
exactly what many of us are saying. It's easy to buy some great wheels at a later date. Upgrading to Di2 is a little bit different.
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Old 05-21-18, 02:41 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
itís insane, isnít it?

Di2 is nice, but itís absolutely unnecessary. I wouldnít hesitate to buy a mechanical shifting bike again. I just bought a Di2 bike, but only because it was the best price on the frameset I needed.

I was looking for a very lightly used 60cm Domane with DA, and I couldnít find a mechanical shifting version at any price.
Is it?
It's unnecessary untill you stay on the hills with broken shifting cable,and a fixed hard gear to continue, far from home (happened to me), then I start thinking about electronic shifting. lol.
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