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Going from 34/50 to 36/52?

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Going from 34/50 to 36/52?

Old 07-17-18, 01:53 PM
  #26  
HTupolev
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug View Post
It's also hilarious how many people think a 52/36 with an 11-28 is tougher than a 50/34 with 12-25 because the bigger chainring is obviously more manly.
A lot of people just don't understand the math. Like, they haven't learned to intuitively see that 12/11 is a bigger ratio than 51/50, that sort of thing.

I was on a road ride on one of my vintage bikes a few weeks ago, and one guy was surprised that I was spending a lot of time in my highest gear when we had been riding in the upper 20s mph range. I explained that although I had a 52T big ring, I was using a 14-28 freewheel. To which he responds, "isn't your 52-14 about the same gear as my 50-11?"
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Old 07-17-18, 03:33 PM
  #27  
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36/52 with an 11-25 cassette for me....used this for years.....covers all the bases.
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Old 07-17-18, 05:14 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
If this was from the 2017 Vuelta, some stages with climbs were very steep. I remember he was riding some non-standard gear combinations.
https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/ra...-espana-343776
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Old 07-17-18, 05:16 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by colnago62 View Post


If this was from the 2017 Vuelta, some stages with climbs were very steep. I remember he was riding some non-standard gear combinations.
https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/ra...-espana-343776
Which shows that optimizing gearing for your terrain and w/kg is just as important for the pros, and that HTFU doesn't cut it when it comes to gearing.
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Old 07-17-18, 06:04 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
Which shows that optimizing gearing for your terrain and w/kg is just as important for the pros, and that HTFU doesn't cut it when it comes to gearing.
It is definitely a good thing to adjust the gears on the bike based on the riders personal needs for a given terrain. Froome was using. 34x53. I wouldn’t think that would even work.

Last edited by colnago62; 07-17-18 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 07-17-18, 06:07 PM
  #31  
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Froome used 54/44 rings on the cobbles this Sunday. A lot of guys ran a 46 small ring. Perhaps less of a chance of throwing the chain.
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Old 07-17-18, 06:15 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
Froome used 54/44 rings on the cobbles this Sunday. A lot of guys ran a 46 small ring. Perhaps less of a chance of throwing the chain.
He road well. Except for that slight deviation into the weeds, it was pretty smooth riding.
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Old 07-17-18, 06:23 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by colnago62 View Post


He road well. Except for that slight deviation into the weeds, it was pretty smooth riding.
I've also read that guys with electronic shifting ran a 46 so they could still race if their shifting stopped. Apparently electronic shifting doesn't like the cobbles.
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Old 07-17-18, 07:47 PM
  #34  
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Best thing I ever did was ditch my 52/36 for a 50/34. Faster across the board. For me. The difference between a 52/12 and a 50/11 @ 100rpm is 1.5mph. I'd just get a cassette with an 11 and leave the 50 on there.
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Old 07-18-18, 02:32 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Beach Bob View Post
Its getting to be time to change chain rings and I'm contemplating going from 34/50 to 36/52 (staying 12-28 on rear). I know I'll lose a little bit of low end for climbing, but I think I should be OK as I don't see much above 8%; and realistically, no long climbs above 6-6 1/2%.

My main reason for doing this is just because I'm finding that I'm spinning out lots on mild descents and flats with a tail wind. Would it be worth the small hassle to adjust the FD and lengthen a chain? or just stick to 34/50?

Thoughts?
What's your cadence when you're spinning out? The 52 gains you a 4% increase. Can you alternatively increase your cadence by 4-5 rpm?

On the other hand, going from a 34 to 36 is a 6% increase. That could really f-up your pacing, even up climb < 8%, depending on how strong you are and what you intend to do. I sometimes ride up the local 7% climbs at tempo/endurance pace on my bike with compact gearing. A 6% jump could be more effort than I'm willing to put out that day.

For the most part, I think the mid-compact will be just fine, but at the same time don't necessarily see a compelling reason to do it. If this were a crit bike, I'd have a much different opinion.
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Old 07-19-18, 01:19 AM
  #36  
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I like the 50t because it means less front shifting.
With an 11-28 on the back I can leave it on the big chainring for most of the ride and just use the 34 when getting to a proper hill.
Then I have a good range of low gears to get up that hill.
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Old 07-19-18, 04:40 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Dean V View Post
I like the 50t because it means less front shifting.
With an 11-28 on the back I can leave it on the big chainring for most of the ride and just use the 34 when getting to a proper hill.
Then I have a good range of low gears to get up that hill.
Or sometimes....
I like the 39t because it means less front shifting
With an 11-28 on the back, I can leave it on the small chainring for most of the ride and just use the 53 when getting to a proper descent.
Then I have a good range of high gears to get down that hill...
and continue on the flat bits if there are any.
Only half joking. The Propel has a standard chainset, and unless I'm intent on a workout or hanging with the A group, I have to go out of my way to find a route where I can comfortably keep it in the big ring for extended periods without cross-chaining more than I like to. Meanwhile, riding around on the 39 is, in a way, like riding the TCX - it came with a 40. I ride it on the road a lot, and since it's a 1x, I have no choice.
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Old 07-19-18, 07:44 AM
  #38  
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All depends on how light / strong you are. I haven't found anything I can't climb with a 36/52 and 11-30 cassette and I appreciate the balance between having a low gear for climbing super steep stuff and top speed 52 ring provides.

A lot of people don't realize crank arm length has a whole lot of effect on gearing too btw. I use 165mm cause it fits me perfectly but that means it requires more force to turn in same gear than on 172.5mm crank arm.

So yeah. Gotta figure that out yourself and what fits you.
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Old 07-19-18, 08:08 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by gurk700 View Post
All depends on how light / strong you are. I haven't found anything I can't climb with a 36/52 and 11-30 cassette and I appreciate the balance between having a low gear for climbing super steep stuff and top speed 52 ring provides.

A lot of people don't realize crank arm length has a whole lot of effect on gearing too btw. I use 165mm cause it fits me perfectly but that means it requires more force to turn in same gear than on 172.5mm crank arm.

So yeah. Gotta figure that out yourself and what fits you.
Good point!

It definitely makes a difference on the lowest gear, about 5% in your case, which is equivalent to two teeth on the chainring.
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Old 07-19-18, 08:26 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by kbarch View Post
Or sometimes....
I like the 39t because it means less front shifting
With an 11-28 on the back, I can leave it on the small chainring for most of the ride and just use the 53 when getting to a proper descent.
Then I have a good range of high gears to get down that hill...
With a 34T small ring, at normal cruising speed, 18-20mph, I'm in the 12 or 13 cog. That only leaves me with a cog or two when I accelerate before I have to shift to the big ring. In the one month I had a compact crank I ended up just staying on the 50 most of the time. With a 39 I'm in the 15, 16 or 17 most of the time. And this is just solo rides. My group rides are with A group. A 34T is totally worthless. If I lived in the mountains it might be another matter, but I lived in the mountains before anyone ever heard of a compact crank and somehow we all survived. Never in my life have I had to get off my bike and walk up a hill.
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Old 07-19-18, 09:44 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
With a 34T small ring, at normal cruising speed, 18-20mph, I'm in the 12 or 13 cog. That only leaves me with a cog or two when I accelerate before I have to shift to the big ring. In the one month I had a compact crank I ended up just staying on the 50 most of the time. With a 39 I'm in the 15, 16 or 17 most of the time. And this is just solo rides. My group rides are with A group. A 34T is totally worthless. If I lived in the mountains it might be another matter, but I lived in the mountains before anyone ever heard of a compact crank and somehow we all survived. Never in my life have I had to get off my bike and walk up a hill.
i mean, shouldn't you be in the big ring most of the time if you don't live in hilly terrain regardless of the crankset? at 18-20 you should be right in the middle of the cassette on a 50t
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Old 07-19-18, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
i mean, shouldn't you be in the big ring most of the time if you don't live in hilly terrain regardless of the crankset? at 18-20 you should be right in the middle of the cassette on a 50t
No, at 18-20 I'm in the 12 or 13 with a compact crank. A 39 puts me in the middle of my cassette. That's specifically why I prefer them. Heck, just look up the numbers on any gear calculator.
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Old 07-19-18, 09:51 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
No, at 18-20 I'm in the 12 or 13 with a compact crank. A 39 puts me in the middle of my cassette. That's specifically why I prefer them. Heck, just look up the numbers on any gear calculator.
So you pedal at 60rpm? 50x12@60rpm=19.8mph
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Old 07-19-18, 10:11 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
So you pedal at 60rpm? 50x12@60rpm=19.8mph
Why did you say 50T? I'm talking about a 34. With a 25c tire at 90rpm, a 34x13 is 18.6mph. I'd rather be in the 15 or 16 when I'm cruising. Like I said before. And I'm more of a masher and not a spinner.
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Old 07-19-18, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Lazyass;20456943[b
]With a 34T small ring, at normal cruising speed, 18-20mph, I'm in the 12 or 13 cog. [/b]That only leaves me with a cog or two when I accelerate before I have to shift to the big ring. In the one month I had a compact crank I ended up just staying on the 50 most of the time. With a 39 I'm in the 15, 16 or 17 most of the time. And this is just solo rides. My group rides are with A group. A 34T is totally worthless. If I lived in the mountains it might be another matter, but I lived in the mountains before anyone ever heard of a compact crank and somehow we all survived. Never in my life have I had to get off my bike and walk up a hill.
Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
Why did you say 50T? I'm talking about a 34. With a 25c tire at 90rpm, a 34x13 is 18.6mph. I'd rather be in the 15 or 16 when I'm cruising. Like I said before. And I'm more of a masher and not a spinner.
Because you say your cruising speed is 18-20mph originally, which is right in the middle 17-18-19 using a 50T, that was my point, you should be in the big ring.
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Old 07-19-18, 10:30 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
Because you say your cruising speed is 18-20mph originally, which is right in the middle 17-18-19 using a 50T, that was my point, you should be in the big ring.
Most road cassettes today have very large gear steps in that area. For instance, a Shimano 11-28 11-speed is 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28.
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Old 07-19-18, 10:31 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
Because you say your cruising speed is 18-20mph originally, which is right in the middle 17-18-19 using a 50T, that was my point, you should be in the big ring.
He is referring to the usefulness of a 34 for him. It sounds like he lives somewhere pretty flat and the 34 is too low for his needs. A standard or mid would allow him to be on either chainring and still ride at his normal pace.
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Old 07-19-18, 10:38 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by colnago62 View Post


He is referring to the usefulness of a 34 for him. It sounds like he lives somewhere pretty flat and the 34 is too low for his needs. A standard or mid would allow him to be on either chainring and still ride at his normal pace.
I guess I just don't see the point, if I'm on flat terrain I'm using the big ring whether thats a compact or standard
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Old 07-19-18, 10:40 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by HTupolev View Post
Most road cassettes today have very large gear steps in that area. For instance, a Shimano 11-28 11-speed is 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28.
That's why I use a 12-25t cassette.
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Old 07-19-18, 10:46 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by HTupolev View Post
Most road cassettes today have very large gear steps in that area. For instance, a Shimano 11-28 11-speed is 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28.
If I didn't have hills such that a 39T small ring was acceptable, I wouldn't be running such a wide cassette, 11-23 or 11-25 in 11 speed are widely available(or 12-23/25 for 10 speed)
Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
That's why I use a 12-25t cassette.
exactly
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