jakeevans6

Does anyone know anything about a Murray Excel Mark iv? I haven't been able to find anything about it online. Every time I search for Excel it comes up with eliminator series. There's a few threads about it, that seem to be about it at least. But all the pictures were on tiny URL or Dropbox and are broken now so can't verify if it is what I think they might be talking about. I figured a forum about classic bikes would maybe know something? Can you guys help me? I'd post some pictures but apparently you have to post 10 times before you can post a picture? So I guess I'll be working my way there lol

Insidious C. 

OP's pic album

Insidious C. 

Oh, and welcome to Bikeforums!

jakeevans6

Hey those are my pics! I guess they did upload. But yes that bike is the mystery bike.

jakeevans6

And thanks! I'm glad to be here. Long time biker lol I used to race as a kid and then mountain biked for a while. Went through a BMX phase, couple of times. Lol. But never thought to join a forum

juvela

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...one avenue of search might be to go through Beatrice Foods...


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Murray Excel front wheel, 20 X 1.75, 28 hole

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AdventureManCO 

Welcome!

Wish I could help, but my knowledge only extends to the higher end brands, like Huffy.













OK OK I kid but please do tell us the story on this one, and then maybe start a build thread, so we can creat more ‘BSO normalizing’ around these parts.

smd4

What do you want to know about it? It looks like a pretty run-of-the-mill single speed coaster brake bike. If you can post a serial number someone might be able to give you a year of construction. But other than that...

Are you sure that's the name of the bike? Or just the name/brand/model number of the coaster brake on which it appears?

ascherer 

The chain guard is slick, love it.

smd4

It's certainly minimalist.

ascherer 

For the benefit of @jakeevans6 and the good of the order, BSO = "Bike-Shaped Object" a term somewhat lovingly coined to refer to bicycles typically sold at low cost by other than bike shops. Like most affinity groups and corporations we have our own terms of art and acronyms. Welcome!

AdventureManCO 

+1 ascherer for the assist

Wildwood 

Wait a minute - is that a race number hanger on the top tube?


...but really - I'm a 'if the bike fits, ride it'. If you like it a month later, it is probably worth upgrades. In this case, a crank and handlebars. Used and cheap.

jakeevans6

Alo! Thank you all for the responses. I had no idea that so many people would respond. So story on the bike is that I'm doing demo on a house that my buddy bought and original owner just left everything. And it's been a bike that's been sitting on the porch for who knows how long. I took an interest in it because I like bikes. I know it has a Murray badge on the stem. And then it's got the Excel Mark 4 down on the opposite side of the rear sprocket on just a piece of steel that's attached to the frame and to the axle. There is some markings on the seat post but it's since worn away so much I can't read it. I've got pictures of that if anyone would like to see that It looks like it's red and yellow and whitish? if that helps. But like I said the only thing I can find really about it is like Excell wheels in a lot of stuff in an estate sale or something. I agree I could just be some very cheap model but even still there be some kind of record of it somewhere, right? Like an advertisement? I feel like your cheapest model, you would want advertise a lot. I just find it odd that the Internet hasn't seen this thing?

jakeevans6

So I asked chat GPT. And it's infinite knowledge told me that it is a sturdy from the '80s. Known for its sturdy frame and smooth ride. I then question further how it got its knowledge and it said it had his knowledge of Mary bikes from its knowledge of just the models of Murray bikes that there have been, And not the internet. But that's about all chat could tell me.

smd4

As noted, the "Excel Mark IV" is just the make/model of the coaster brake rear hub--not the bike model name. The piece of steel where it's stamped is an important part of the coaster brake mechanism and needs to be attached to the frame to function properly.

What you're referring to the "seat post" is actually the "seat tube." Those marking may be the remains of a shop identifying sticker. The actual seat post is inserted all the way in the seat tube--you might need to get some penetrating oil down in there to get it to release, so you can adjust the seat post up and down to suit your size.

Since this was a demo find, and you have no sentimental value attached to it I'll be brutally honest: (I probably wouldn't say what I'm about to say if it were your childhood bike). Murray bikes were basically near the bottom of the barrel. Many here euphemistically call them "BSOs", for "Bike-Shaped Objects," but we would also call them POS's. They were sold in department stores or auto parts stores or lawn mower stores, not bike shops, and are considered to be of inferior quality. They have heavy frames with heavy parts, and just plod along.

The reason that your bike isn't showing up in searches is that there is practically zero interest in them, especially lower-end models of an already low-end manufacturer, and for later years, like the 1980s or onward. The company wasn't going to spend a ton of money to advertise a bike that generates very little income--just prop it up on the floor of the local Emporium department store or Pep Boys and wait for some kid to come along who couldn't live without it. There's nothing historical or special or particularly interesting about the bike.

Like I said, your best bet at getting any info is to look for a stamped serial number--a common location is on the frame underneath where the pedals go, called the bottom bracket. Report back any numbers/letters you find, and people here may have a lead for you. Once you know the year of manufacture, you might be able to narrow your searches for ads or catalog pictures, if any. Wikipedia offers the history of the company if that's of interest to you: Murray Bicycles

THAT SAID, if you like bikes, it may be a great bike to clean up and restore somewhat--a project for fun and learning. Coaster brakes are nearly indestructible. Watch a few videos and see if you can rebuild it. Everything on that bike is steel, so you should be able to remove the rust and get a good polish on everything. Bearings and rusty bolts are all replaceable. You don't have to worry about finicky things like cables, derailleurs and hand brakes. This is about as simple as a bike gets. Think about replacing the chain--probably cost you less than $10.00 bucks. Probably needs new tires and tubes as well--also not a lot of money. You don't need new cranks or a new handlebar--just a little elbow grease and some chrome polish. You could give it a nice paint job and really make it your own.

Enjoy it for what it is, and if you bring it back to life, take some pics and share with us.

smd4

Neither is necessary. They just need to be cleaned up a bit.

Arrowana

While it is not a high end bike, a single speed with a coaster brake is about as simple as a bicycle can get, so simple that even Murray can't screw up too bad by cheaping out on everything. If the wheels aren't in terrible shape, I'd say it is worth fixing up if you or someone you know wants to ride it.

The tires look like they are shot. The size is most commonly known as 26" x 1 3/8", but it is worth pointing out that there are many different wheel sizes that get called 26". If the tire you are looking at is also labeled 37-590, you know you have the right one. It is also somewhat likely you will need new inner tubes and rim strips.

As a bike that was made as cheaply as possible, I'd expect that the front hub, headset, and bottom bracket were not given a proper amount of grease from the factory, and then the bike was exposed to the elements enough to gain a fair bit of rust. You will want to overhaul those bearings before you ride it much. Don't be afraid to get new bearings if the current ones are pitted, they are quite cheap to replace. The rear hub is more likely to have gotten a proper amount of grease, and it will be a more complicated part to overhaul. You might be able to get away with skipping an overhaul of the rear hub, but it isn't a bad idea to go for it.

Looking at the style of reflectors, the saddle, and the fact that the chainstays might actually be welded to the rear dropouts instead of being crimped on, I think it is more likely that the bike was made in the 60's or early 70's.

If I were fixing it up for myself, I'd actually be tempted to leave most of the rust on and embrace the rat-rod vibe. Cleaning the rust off of the axles on the hubs would still be worthwhile though to reduce the chance of stripping the threads.