ColonelSanders

It would be a great gravel bike.


Here is a clip I saw back in 2016 that convinced me to get the Toughroad.

Saitama

I'll be picking up a used Toughroad SLR 2 2016 tonight. It's beat up, but only USD $350. I always change some things, so I'm not fussed by the condition. I was amazed how light it is too- I've only had 14kg hybrids and steel framed bikes, so this feels featherweight.

This thread is quite amazing- so much enthusiasm and info! I plan to put G-ones on, and now know 2.35 size will barely make it. And I might change to a deore crank triple in the future!

I read another thread about how the toughroad will no longer be made- such a shame. If only they showed the same enthusiasm with colour schemes as they do with their Anyroads. I'd love a used Anyroad too, but in my region, used ones are not common, and usually a size or two too small for me

GLJo

As an update to this, I still have the G-one speed 2.35 tyres on.
What I found was that I could move the front gear mech up the frame around a centimeter or so and still be in Srams setup specification. This gave me another couple of millimeters clearance for the back tyre! Its still a bit close for comfort though.

Also, if you run the 2.35 G-ones with a lowish pressure, they can squirm a fair bit in certain situations, guess the rims are a tad too narrow. Pump them up and this improves, however for me, the whole point of these particular tyres is that they are almost balloon like in their comfort when run lowish, yet they are VERY light considering the size. Much lighter than say a Big Apple. And they roll really fast as well.
I'm off for a weeks touring holiday on the Toughroad shortly and some of the paths will be off tarmac, hence the G-ones are still on and will be run low for some suspension. When these wear out (which I don't think will be toooo long as they are a sports more than en endurance compound, and the 'tread' depth is tiny!) I might still replace them with some more G-ones, but I suspect the 29*2.0 ones will be the best compromise. Not so easy to find in my part of the world though ......

Saitama

Yes, I've looked around in my city and online and I found a shop which has a single 700 x 2.00 G-one. Plenty of 700 x 30-38 and 700 x 2.25+, just not 700 x 2.00.


I put 700 x 38 G-one all rounds on my GT transeo 2.0 hybrid, so I changed the front wheel on both bikes and rode the SLR-2 for 20 minutes. Front is definitely smoother without the knobby bits of the myb tyre.


On the minus side, have found during riding for 3 hours that the seatpost flexes and bounces when I start spinning- went through this thread (took some time!) and there was a guy who found the same thing, but he said he was 90kg. I'm 110kg, so perhaps the D shape isn't resistant to heavy (read fat) people pounding away. Also noticed there's no eyelet on the "top" or centre of where the left and right arms of the front fork meet, which removes some options for front bike racks, which blows.Some nice and wide one have three points of contact including the central eyelet.


Other things I've noticed:


- In the last 5-6 months I've also been getting hand/palm pain, both hands, both SLR-2 and GT- , tried ergons, bar ends. Now awaiting some foam grips via postage.


- the GT transeo feels fast when I go the the 46t front chainring, but the SLR-2 doesn't feel fast when I go the the 44t (or is it 42?) front chainring. Rear cassette is the same for both, both are 3 x 9 speed. The GT is 2.5 kg heavier.



I have a Ritchey comp venturemax flared drop bar handlebar. Am thinking about either:


- add the Ritchey and Sora brifters (I read online that 9 speed mtb and sora are compatible) - a pair of Sora brifters from Wiggle or Chian Reaction are about AUD $160-190. Not sure which bike to add to. Also have a 12-36t cassette too at home.


- or sell both and re-buy a Marin Four Corners which I briefly owned once and found comfortable, but handlebars made me feel really cramped so adding the Ritchey would solve that.


I'm quite aware of the frames for flatbars and drop ends are different lengths.


There's no reason for me to write about all my indecision, except I have some time now. It'd really really awesome if someone could come along, spend 10-20 hours patiently making all the changes I want, then making adjustments, then removing all the gear and attaching it to the other bike so I can compare, then remove said extra gear so I can sell 1/both bikes, all with a friendly smile and no charge.


(I can dream! hehe )

hokiefyd 

Only one of the G-One models (the G-One Speed) comes in 29x2, and it's 520 grams (very light for a 29x2). As a potential alternative, consider also the Schwalbe Hurricane, also available in 29x2. It's 725 grams, which is a little heavier, but still pretty light for the size. It may be a good alternative to the specialist G-Ones. I'm using them (the Hurricanes in 29x2) on my Giant Roam and really enjoy them.

Saitama

Right now, I'm still experimenting with the SLR 2 and deciding whether to keep the GT Transeo 2 (a hybrid with a cheap spring front suspension fork) or the TR.The GT is this model : https://www.evanscycles.com/en-sg/gt...-bike-EV219202

Both are 700c, have 11-34T rear cassette. I did a straight swap of both front and rear wheels from the GT to the TR last Sunday, cycled about 2.5 hrs on the TR. I can do some comparison because both bikes are 700c, I used the same saddle, bar ends, handlebar grips, literally same wheel rims, same Schwalbe G-one 700 x 38's, same 11-34T rear cassette. Fixed the bouncing seatpost by lowering it.

I noticed three things-

- the G-one's transform the bike for the better,
- the Medium size is a tad too long for me. Last night I used my 110mm Ritchey 4 axis adjustable stem, but I'll need to fidget with the angle more.
- the TR is about 2 kg lighter, but the GT feels faster- both in acceleration and absolute speed. I don't know if it because I'm unfit, or the geometry, or if the 44t top crank really is that much slower than the 46t top crank on the GT.

Also thinking about getting 700 x 2.00 G-ones from here https://www.bike-components.de/en/Sc...g-Tyre-p59938/

I've also attached some bottle cages on the front fork with SKS anywhere adapters, carrying 1.5L bottles, to test if they will work with future tours. So far, I've found they have to by put furhter up the fork around the thicker parts, to stop them from rotating, which they do when put further down, where the fork is thinner. Perhaps these bottle sticking out from the sides of the fork, and the flaring front mudguard, are why I felt like I wasn't as fast, or bike didn't feel as zippy? Or maybe the drivetrain has been beat up by the previous owner?

Speaking of the fork, I'm disappointed that at the furcation, where the left and right arms of the arms meet, the eyelet/lug is not on the front, but behind. While you can still put fenders, it means I cant put a host of front racks on using 3 point attachments, and can only use pricier, heavier, more complicated 4 point attachment racks. eg you can go to to those el cheapo China sites and get a front rack for USD 7-10 which will hold a few kg- ideal for holding a bag or bottles of water. But now...I'd have to pay >$100 for a rack that fits...unless someone here knows how to drill a hole into forks and has some advice?

I actually have some photos of my TR from Sunday, but my mobile phone's been playing up recently, so I'm typing from a work computer. Sorry 'bout that!

While I need to keep riding to see which I prefer- I might get a mosso rigid fork for the GT USD $ 68 at a LBS. Means the bike will be 1-1.5kg lighter, perhaps I can attach those bottle cages to it. The TR has a bigger frame triangle so can put larger bottles there, compared to the GT.

I wasn't going to wruite, but with the advice above from other people, I didn't want to be one of those people who asks a question, then fades away after helpful advice.

Anyone have advice about that front fork central eyelet that's mysteriously missing???

GLJo

Or the fact that if you lowered the seatpost enough to stop any 'bouncing', then you probably have thrown your optimum seat height off so much, I'm not surprised the toughroad doesn't seem 'fast'!!

hokiefyd 

If you're asking why your GT fork doesn't have outward facing mid-point rack mounts, that's pretty common for suspension forks. I don't know for sure, but I imagine that it's due to the nature of the fork -- it's a suspension fork and upper stanchion tubes need to slide down smooth lower tubes. A mid-point rack mount would likely interfere with that action. They have a lower mount, facing rearward, for other accessories, like fenders. Again, this is very common with suspension forks, and these lower mounts are generally below the point of travel (so they don't interfere, like mid-point mounts would).

If you otherwise like your GT, you could very easily swap the fork for a rigid fork. I'd recommend either steel or carbon fiber (the ride from an aluminum fork will be pretty stiff). You'll need to make sure the steer tube is long enough (this is the part that extends up through your frame), you'll need to make sure the axle-to-crown distance is about what your suspension fork is unloaded (this will ensure that the geometry remains about the same), and you'll need to make sure it has disc brake caliper mounting points if you want to retain your disc brake.

Surly sells a bunch of different types of forks, a few of which would likely work on your bike. They're usually chrome-moly steel, and should ride nice and will be lighter than your suspension fork. A carbon fiber fork will be lighter and perhaps more plush (ride), but may be more expensive as well.

Saitama

No, I'm asking about the Toughroad front fork- there are only eyelets halfway along the length of each fork arm, at the end of the fork near the quick release axel, and on the back of the fork facing the diagonal frame tube.

hokiefyd 

I'm not sure I'm following you then...which eyelets are you saying are missing? Are you talking about the hole through the crown where people used to mount brake calipers? Perhaps an imagine would help clarify.

ColonelSanders

I'm pretty sure he is.


I bought a racktime front rack, not realising it needed to be connected via a fork's crown hole, and the Toughroad doesn't have that.


Anyway, that front rack will go nicely on the Surly Troll I am slowly putting together.

Saitama

I just picked up a lightly used Fibre Flare light at USD $ 7.50. it's the green light. This pic was just for myself, at the seller's unit, so I haven't taken any time to position the bike or search for good lighting. These Origin 8 bar ends are a bit thin for me, but inserting foam over them didn't feel comfortable. These bar ends were good for moving my hands forward, when I wanted to cycle faster.


Trying out attaching ToPeak bottle cages attached to front fork with SKS Anywhere attachments. When they work they're ok, but the 1 or the 3 pairs of SKS Anywhere's I bought don't work now. You can see different bar ends too. These are comfortable for putting my hands on the ends of the handlebars, but aren't good for getting leverage . Can see the 700 x 38 Schwalbe G-one's too.


Yes, the Colonal is right- it's the eyelet he described. I was going to get this nice Racktime front rack, but no can do now- I've ordered the Racktime Add-it rear rack- weighs 770gms, weight limit of 30kg, which is far better than the 20-25kg limit many other racks have, especially at this price. The order includes a pair of G-one 700 x 2.00 and SQ Lab 711 grips. In the main frame triangle, I've managed to jam 2 x 1.5L water bottles in (not in these pics).

Saitama

Top down view of the cockpit and the bottles on the front fork arms

HerrKaLeun

What is the largest tire size people have used front and rear?
I'm thinking of installing the Schwalbe Big apple (2.35") front along with a 30mm (internal) rim. So it will be wider than regular 2.35" tire. There should be room, but I wonder if someone tried similar?
I will order the rim and tire specifically for this and don't already have a wheel like that, so "just trying" won't work.

Main reason I want to do that is some better comfort, controllability and to raise the front a bit to decrease head tube angle a bit (my other bike has 67°, so the 72°F of the TR feel twitchy)

The rear looks like it will be more limited due to chainstay.

a tidbit for tire width impacted by rim: I have Schwalbe Allmotion 2.00" tire. On the rear and the original giant rim (20mm internal) they measured 47mm. On my new 25mm rims they measure 50mm at same pressure.

GLJo

Just a thought - why don't you just get a big apple tyre first and try it on the stock wheel?
As its a 'balloon tyre', I'm wondering if its actually designed to cope better with thinner rims than say a 2.35 knobbly MTB ??
Don't know this for certain, just wondering. I have 2.35 big apples on a 19mm rim on a different bike, and they seem fine.

HerrKaLeun

Good idea with buying the tire separately. Just one self-inflicted problem: I order them from Europe (<$20 vs. $45 in US) and like to order rim, hub etc. all at once since there is a 20 euro shipping fee no matter the amount.
Ultimately I want a wider rim, I'm just a believer in them as they give me wider tires and I can run at lower pressure.

Did you set up yours tubeless and was that easy? They are not rated tubeless, but I read one can. I'm currently tubeless, so that will be important. I assume on your 19mm rims they are a bit under 60mm wide (Schwalbe are a bit on smaller side). The fork has almost 75mm room, so even with 30mm rims it should not go close to 70mm.

I'm open to other tire suggestions, but the market for over 2" tires, tubeless and with low-resistance pavement profile is very thin.

fabian.milea

It was time for a change of tires,now, after two seasons and more than 5000 km the original Maxxis are worn off. I did use, during the last summer, a set of schwalbe marathon mondial 2" on road and forest trails but this year I did mostly mountain trails and used the maxxis, great tires. Now I got a set of schwalbe nobby nic, foldable, performance addix, 2,25", I used them for a XC race and I felt very griping on fire roads, forest trails and grass, but the back tires clears the front derailleur mount by just 5mm. That is to close for confort in muddy conditions. In the mean time, I decided that I want to do more mountain biking and the Thougroad can do it, but we are not in the confort zone. I found an almost new Corratec Hardtail 29er with 2x11 xt drivetrain an carbon frame at 10.8 kg. I will use the old trusty Thoughroad for more relaxed family bike trips, city commute and long road journeys. I will setup some training tires and use it for winter training in the balcony during the winter...

Osin83

I have a 2016 SLR2 in large that I will be converting to a 1x12 Sram GX setup with a Sunrace 10-50t cassette shortly. I want to replace the crankset and BB at the same time but am not sure which parts will be compatible with both the Frame and the rest of the drivetrain I will be purchasing.

I was thinking of going with a Sram GX crankset with 175mm arms, but there seem to be multiple sizes of BB. I most often see the Shimano UN55 recommended. I wasn't sure if it would be compatible if I went with a Sram crankset.

andrei_r

I think you need something like this Sram GXP bottom bracket. You need to study the chainline question better though. Sram shows different chainline possibilities for their gx crank. I'm not sure how one obrains a different chainline with this kind of setup.

badger1

If you are going to use a current SRAM crankset, you must use a GXP SRAM b/b (or one of several after-market versions -- thought there's no real point in doing so). Your frame has a standard threaded b/b shell, so you'd use this: https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/p...bottom-bracket. It comes with the spacers you need to set the chainline to your shell width.

If you were going to use a Shimano crank, you'd use a Shimano b/b.

HerrKaLeun

The toughroad has a standard english threaded 68mm BB shell. I just installed a Shimano SLX crank. that cost $62 at CRC and weighs around 600g. A BB cost $13. Just add whatever chainring you want, no need to buy SRAM. you also can install the Sunrace 11-50 cassette if you want to keep the existing hub. That cassette cost around $60 at bike24. the 10-50 SRAM cassette requires an xD hub.

Noctilux.95

My Toughroad with XT 1x11 drivetrain. Its fast, comfortable, and looks awesome!

Osin83

Awesome to see people still active on this thread. It's been very helpful. I do love the bike. But I can't deal with the front derailer any longer.

Osin83

That does look awesome. Which front chain ring and cassette did you go with?

I was originally looking at converting to an XT 1x11 setup but wanted to try to keep the gearing a little wider and closer to the stock gearing. When I was playing with the numbers for the available Shimano 1x10 and 1x11 cassettes and chain rings I felt like I was going to have to sacrifice both at the top and bottom end. That, plus it looks like I can get the Sram parts a little cheaper.

I have a fatbike that was converted from a 2x10 to a 1x10 XT setup and a trail bike that came with a Sram X1 1x11 setup. I do like both, but I like the layout of Shimano shifter slightly better.

Noctilux.95

Its a 34T XT chainring. To be honest I would have preferred at least a 38T but this bikes gets used mostly for social rides. For that, its awesome!