Axle and Frame Fitment
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Axle and Frame Fitment
Recently replaced the freehub and didn't know to count the number of threads on the axle before taking it apart. I've put it all back together and if I tighten the cone or locknut anymore, it will prevent the wheel from spinning freely. The axle is only extending about halfway through the frame (see pic). Is this ok?
#2
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Recently replaced the freehub and didn't know to count the number of threads on the axle before taking it apart. I've put it all back together and if I tighten the cone or locknut anymore, it will prevent the wheel from spinning freely. The axle is only extending about halfway through the frame (see pic). Is this ok?
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#3
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"Standard" procedure is to only loosen/remove cone/lock nut from one end ONLY and then pull the axle out.
This maintains whatever spacing you HAD.
Make sure the other end isn't standing "proud" of the DO, else it won't clamp on that side.
This maintains whatever spacing you HAD.
Make sure the other end isn't standing "proud" of the DO, else it won't clamp on that side.
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I removed it from the non-drive side and didn't touch the drive side. It axle sticks out a couple mm more on the drive side that I didn't touch, but if I tightened the non-drive side any more, the wheel won't spin freely.
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You have plenty of axle support in the dropout so there is no problem. If you want to even the axle up you can but it's not essential. The "standard" axle protrusion from each locknut face is 5.5 mm for future reference.
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#6
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This is trying to adjust to the axle length. Don't do this. If you didn't touch/move/loosen the drive side cones on the axle then no need to worry about the axle (as others have said, you have enough axle to support the wheel). You just need to adjust for the bearing play, not tight, not loose, spins freely by hand out of the frame, no free hub wobble.
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I'll just add that one should confirm that the cone/locknut on the side that is the reference (usually the drive side) are actually tightened against each other. Enough times the cone/locknut can be only slightly more then finger tight. These need to be wrench tight to act as the "base line" others are talking about. Andy
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