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Dun, Dun, Dun, Dunnn, It Finally Happened

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Dun, Dun, Dun, Dunnn, It Finally Happened

Old 03-15-19, 09:08 AM
  #26  
rumrunn6
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Originally Posted by noodle soup
Velox rim tape will definitely make tire changes more difficult.
cuz it's so thick? so far I'm OK with it. especially after dealing with this old stuff



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Old 03-15-19, 09:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Lemond1985
You like to live dangerously, my friend.
haha, it's all in the technique, my friend. but yeah, I hear ya
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Old 03-15-19, 09:21 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by rumrunn6
cuz it's so thick? so far I'm OK with it. especially after dealing with this old stuff



I've had Velox tape rip while riding. Luckily it was just before a long DH. Velox tape isn't horrible, but it can make tire changes a PITA on tubeless compatible rims.


Never had an issue with Stan's tape. It's thin, very strong, and it's never going to slip(like vinyl rim strips).
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Old 03-15-19, 09:27 AM
  #29  
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I wouldn't run tires or wheels which required carrying bead jacks, straps and such things while on a ride, nor would I ride a combination which is brutally difficult to service in the field.

Why bother when there are so many good tire and rim combinations which go on so easily by hand or with levers?


-Tim-
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Old 03-15-19, 11:02 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup
I've had Velox tape rip while riding. Luckily it was just before a long DH. Velox tape isn't horrible, but it can make tire changes a PITA on tubeless compatible rims.


Never had an issue with Stan's tape. It's thin, very strong, and it's never going to slip(like vinyl rim strips).
Timely thread. I'm fighting with DTS RR440 rim tape issues. Tape was migrating off the holes, replaced with Velox but too hard to mount tires and often get a hop where the tire did not seat properly. What width Stans do you use with RR440's, no room for fudging.
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Old 03-15-19, 11:34 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by popeye
Timely thread. I'm fighting with DTS RR440 rim tape issues. Tape was migrating off the holes, replaced with Velox but too hard to mount tires and often get a hop where the tire did not seat properly. What width Stans do you use with RR440's, no room for fudging.
I'd probably get 12mm tape, and offset the wraps as needed.
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Old 03-15-19, 11:36 AM
  #32  
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Veloplugs
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Old 03-15-19, 12:04 PM
  #33  
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much sympathy for the original poster. i've been riding some 13 year old campy wheels with GP4000s that last few years, and i can not get the tires on. i've tried many times and failed over and over. i don't even carry a tube with me anymore because i know i can't change it. luckily, the 4000's have been amazing, and i only get a flat every 2-3 years. when i do, i put on a hat and sunglasses and take the wheel into my local shop for some help. it makes me feel a lot better when i see some mechanic kid really struggle with it for a while (but they eventually get it on).
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Old 03-15-19, 12:10 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by sultanofsuede
much sympathy for the original poster. i've been riding some 13 year old campy wheels with GP4000s that last few years, and i can not get the tires on. i've tried many times and failed over and over. i don't even carry a tube with me anymore because i know i can't change it. luckily, the 4000's have been amazing, and i only get a flat every 2-3 years. when i do, i put on a hat and sunglasses and take the wheel into my local shop for some help. it makes me feel a lot better when i see some mechanic kid really struggle with it for a while (but they eventually get it on).
Did anyone ever put a tape measure on such a wheel? The bead seat is supposed to be 622 mm diameter, that is 1954 mm circumference or maybe its the the hooks that are too tall? Does anyone know?
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Old 03-15-19, 12:44 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by sultanofsuede
much sympathy for the original poster. i've been riding some 13 year old campy wheels with GP4000s that last few years, and i can not get the tires on. i've tried many times and failed over and over. i don't even carry a tube with me anymore because i know i can't change it. luckily, the 4000's have been amazing, and i only get a flat every 2-3 years. when i do, i put on a hat and sunglasses and take the wheel into my local shop for some help. it makes me feel a lot better when i see some mechanic kid really struggle with it for a while (but they eventually get it on).
I never had to resort to this before, in 50 years of mounting tires, but these folding Panaracer tires I bought recently needed some "extra help", so I used a wet lubricant for the first time, and it worked.

Usually baby powder / talcum powder is all that I need, but for some reason (I suspect it's the tackiness of the rubber compound used) that baby powder is no longer enough. I used olive oil on one set of tires, and soapy water on another, because that's all I had handy, and both of those cut down down the friction between the rim and the tire just enough, to eventually pop the tires on.

Someone else suggested bubble-blowing fluid, I'm sure that would work as well.
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Old 03-15-19, 12:54 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
I wouldn't run tires or wheels which required carrying bead jacks, straps and such things while on a ride, nor would I ride a combination which is brutally difficult to service in the field.

Why bother when there are so many good tire and rim combinations which go on so easily by hand or with levers?


-Tim-
A tubeless tire that goes on too easily will likely come unseated if pressure is lost, and be hard to get to seat again in the field.

There is a balance.
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Old 03-15-19, 01:00 PM
  #37  
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Been riding for 50 years... yes I know I'm older than dirt thank you. However, until the 6 years ago changing a tire in the field was a 5-10 minute job. Then I purchased my first carbon bike with disc wheels. I haven't been able to mount tires in the field since. That using all kinds of different tires a couple of different wheel sets and now carbon wheels. I just don't have the strength in my hands that I did years ago. In the beginning I took a bead jack with me plus other supplies to help. My MTB has had tubeless setup for the past 18 years and has never had a nonfield repairable tire. So last year I put all the tools back in the shop, purchased tubeless rim tape, Stans valves, Stans sealant, Pro One tires and the all important plug kit. Best cycling decision I have made. If the tire is so bad that the sealant or plug can't fix it a simple tube repair wouldn't either. So now I ride without all the worry, and unmount, mount tires back in the shop where I have all the tools needed to make it an easy job. Go Tubeless and you won't go back! Good luck.
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Old 03-15-19, 01:09 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup
I'd probably get 12mm tape, and offset the wraps as needed.
Great idea tnx.
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Old 03-15-19, 01:21 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by popeye
Great idea tnx.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Stans-NoTu...SABEgK76PD_BwE

Or if you have Amazon Prime

https://www.amazon.com/Stans-No-Tube...a-372558679916
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Old 03-15-19, 03:50 PM
  #40  
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I'm thinking some of this is due to the somewhat recent (from historical perspective) migration to wider rims being used for road tires. A 14c vs eg. a 21c rim has to have an impact if, for argument's sake, you need to get the same 25mm tire on either? The center (deepest) channel inside the rim is that much further from the rims edge for the 21c rim vs 15c rim, over which you need to get the tire bead, right?
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Old 03-15-19, 07:38 PM
  #41  
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For kicks and giggles, I removed the tires on both rims. The rear one came off with not too much effort. I used my Kool Tire tool and it was much easier to put back on. The front tire, wouldn't come unbeaded with the strength of Thor. I finally removed one side and took the tube out, but the other side was like it was glued on. I tried several MacGyver tricks, none worked. I finally sprayed some Simple Green inside the rim and pushed as hard as my thumbs would allow and boom, they finally came off. I have an extra mini pump holder and I think I'm going to add it to my bottle holder strap and keep a Kool Tire Tool with me on all my rides. I feel confident I can get the tires on the rims, but removing them could be a huge challenge. I am going to also look into replacing the tape to see if that helps.
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Old 03-15-19, 08:01 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Sojodave
For kicks and giggles, I removed the tires on both rims. The rear one came off with not too much effort. I used my Kool Tire tool and it was much easier to put back on. The front tire, wouldn't come unbeaded with the strength of Thor. I finally removed one side and took the tube out, but the other side was like it was glued on. I tried several MacGyver tricks, none worked. I finally sprayed some Simple Green inside the rim and pushed as hard as my thumbs would allow and boom, they finally came off. I have an extra mini pump holder and I think I'm going to add it to my bottle holder strap and keep a Kool Tire Tool with me on all my rides. I feel confident I can get the tires on the rims, but removing them could be a huge challenge. I am going to also look into replacing the tape to see if that helps.
On one of my first sets of tubeless tires, I had a really, really hard time breaking a tight bead. I was so frustrated that I was very close to cutting a $90 tire off of the rim. Anyway, a tool-free method that I've found to work when all else fails - stand up and stand the wheel up in front of you, with the bead that you want to break facing you. Grip the tire/wheel with both hands and start twisting, one hand at a time, like you're rolling up a newspaper. You might have to really put your weight in to it. The goal is to essentially roll the tire carcass over the far edge of the rim, which will pull the bead away from you, popping it off the shoulders and in to the center of the rim. If it doesn't break after a few odd grunts, rotate the wheel a little and try to break it at another spot. It'll pop sooner rather than later. Oh, and unless your hands are like hooves, you should be wearing gloves or you'll tear 'em to **** in no time.
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Old 03-15-19, 08:58 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Marcus_Ti
A tubeless tire that goes on too easily will likely come unseated if pressure is lost, and be hard to get to seat again in the field.

There is a balance.
I think the OP is running tubes. So am I on the roadie bike.

Sorry if my post lacked sufficient context.
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