Roller Bearing Headset adjustment
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Roller Bearing Headset adjustment
Just about to get a bike on the road that has a Galli headset that I just discovered has roller bearings.
I like the idea of roller bearings, and have had one on another bike BUT
before I screw this one up, is there anything different about adjustment/tightness/etc. that I should keep in mind before I take it on the road?
I like the idea of roller bearings, and have had one on another bike BUT
before I screw this one up, is there anything different about adjustment/tightness/etc. that I should keep in mind before I take it on the road?
#2
Senior Member
They pretty much adjust the same. They can usually handle a little more preload than round bearings but I wouldn't put it in if not needed. There is nothing really different about them. I am not familiar with the Galli but on the Stronglights (aluminum & plastic versions) they had metal races (top & bottom of the bearing) that when left out would ruin the headset.
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#3
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I've been using the Stronglight Delta and A9 headsets for 30 years now, so I may have forgotten what is most surprising when first fiddling with this style of headset. Still, I'd say that the big difference is that there is more rotational drag with roller bearings. This can lead you to think the bearings are tight when they are still a hair loose. You'll want to rely more on the method of applying the front brake and rocking the bike fore and aft to look for play.
Steve in Peoria
Steve in Peoria
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#4
Senior Member
I remember them from decades ago. Adjust normally to as loose as it goes, but with no play at all. They'll feel subjectively a little tight. +1 to what steelbikeguy says. In addition, I'd do the bounce the front wheel on the floor trick. You'll hear and/or feel a bit of a rattle if it's loose. Sometimes the front brake trick will miss the final last bit of looseness.
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#5
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Thanks. Glad I asked. I was feeling a little bit more bind than I expected but am at the point that I am not getting any fork rocking so I think I am good to go.
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...I can't add much. Just that they are similar in design to an automotive wheel bearing, thus require a slight pre-load in order to function as designed. Not certain if it is specified anywhere in the literature. I adjust them to where the wheel in the fork will just flop over under its own weight.
...I can't add much. Just that they are similar in design to an automotive wheel bearing, thus require a slight pre-load in order to function as designed. Not certain if it is specified anywhere in the literature. I adjust them to where the wheel in the fork will just flop over under its own weight.
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#7
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And probable that your Galli is either a rebranded Stronglight A-9 (all alloy) or B-10 (plastic cups) so exactly like a Stronglight!
But Galli DID have one unique model with rollers that's entirely different, has thicker rollers in metal cages at a more "upright" angle than the Stronglight resin cages with smaller rollers.
Here's a link to that rare bird from velobase: VeloBase.com - Component: Galli (tapered roller bearing, cuscinetto di rulli conici)
But Galli DID have one unique model with rollers that's entirely different, has thicker rollers in metal cages at a more "upright" angle than the Stronglight resin cages with smaller rollers.
Here's a link to that rare bird from velobase: VeloBase.com - Component: Galli (tapered roller bearing, cuscinetto di rulli conici)
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And probable that your Galli is either a rebranded Stronglight A-9 (all alloy) or B-10 (plastic cups) so exactly like a Stronglight!
But Galli DID have one unique model with rollers that's entirely different, has thicker rollers in metal cages at a more "upright" angle than the Stronglight resin cages with smaller rollers.
Here's a link to that rare bird from velobase: VeloBase.com - Component: Galli (tapered roller bearing, cuscinetto di rulli conici)
But Galli DID have one unique model with rollers that's entirely different, has thicker rollers in metal cages at a more "upright" angle than the Stronglight resin cages with smaller rollers.
Here's a link to that rare bird from velobase: VeloBase.com - Component: Galli (tapered roller bearing, cuscinetto di rulli conici)
Steve in Peoria
#9
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And probable that your Galli is either a rebranded Stronglight A-9 (all alloy) or B-10 (plastic cups) so exactly like a Stronglight!
But Galli DID have one unique model with rollers that's entirely different, has thicker rollers in metal cages at a more "upright" angle than the Stronglight resin cages with smaller rollers.
Here's a link to that rare bird from velobase: VeloBase.com - Component: Galli (tapered roller bearing, cuscinetto di rulli conici)
But Galli DID have one unique model with rollers that's entirely different, has thicker rollers in metal cages at a more "upright" angle than the Stronglight resin cages with smaller rollers.
Here's a link to that rare bird from velobase: VeloBase.com - Component: Galli (tapered roller bearing, cuscinetto di rulli conici)
#10
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I was just poking through an old Bike Warehouse catalog and saw that they sold that headset. The illustration leaves a bit to be desired, but the angle of the bearing really looks better suited to an axle bearing than something like a headset that is carrying a thrust load.
#12
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Thread Starter
Turns out I do have the Galli as pictured in the ad. As a I do have the SL on another bike, the internal difference is obvious. Might have to drop out the spacer. Locknut is only engaging on about three threads with spacer in place and it is all alloy. Genuflecting towards the nearest aluminum smelter now.....
#13
Steel rider
I just discovered an old frame with a Galli tapered roller set. What a sweet find! It is rock solid tho as mentioned, the preload could feel like it’s too tight.
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I suspect Galli used a standard bearing for that headset. A less acute angle would have required far more taper on the rollers to eliminate the sliding contact as the bearing rotates. The Stronglight is probably more suited for thrust loads, but does have more inherent friction than the tapered rollers.