Modern brakes for vintage MTB
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Modern brakes for vintage MTB
Hi there everyone. I'm trying to build up an old Specialized Hardrock steel frame circa 1995, I am doing this to learn new skills and give me a project to do.
I have some old brakes - Shimano BR 454, but I would like to use modern versions. Can anyone suggest a suitable replacement that will work with 26inch wheels please?
Many thanks
Andy
I have some old brakes - Shimano BR 454, but I would like to use modern versions. Can anyone suggest a suitable replacement that will work with 26inch wheels please?
Many thanks
Andy
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Hi there everyone. I'm trying to build up an old Specialized Hardrock steel frame circa 1995, I am doing this to learn new skills and give me a project to do.
I have some old brakes - Shimano BR 454, but I would like to use modern versions. Can anyone suggest a suitable replacement that will work with 26inch wheels please?
Many thanks
Andy
I have some old brakes - Shimano BR 454, but I would like to use modern versions. Can anyone suggest a suitable replacement that will work with 26inch wheels please?
Many thanks
Andy
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#4
High Plains Luddite
If you haven't found it yet, you might enjoy the Classic & Vintage forum and three of my favorite threads there about older mountain bikes:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ain-bikes.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...nversions.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...nversions.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ain-bikes.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...nversions.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...nversions.html
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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The CR720 also use road type cartridge pads which is a plus, IMO.
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https://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=70
https://bike.shimano.com/en-NZ/product/component/ultegra-6800/BL-R780.html
Last edited by dedhed; 02-17-21 at 07:00 PM.
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#10
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If you want better braking at minimal investment. Get good shoes and good pads and make sure they are separate. If the name has Stop in it, it is probably good (like SwissStop or KoolStop). Shoes should be nice and stiff to provide best braking. Also invest in really good compressionless housing. I am a fan of the Jagwire Elite Link kits (which is light and can be nicely bling but also is super slick and smooth and the beads are reusable (so costs less just replacing a cheaper liner and cables rather than a full housing) but the Jagwire Pro is also just fine and uses a more standard housing. The kits come with just about everything you would need in most cases (and sometimes you will have extra stuff for the next project) Avoid coated cables as those can come off and get gummed up in the works. Also always avoid galvanized cables just get slick stainless uncoated cables and you are good as gold.
If you want a sublime experience Paul Cantis or his MotoLite brakes are simply the best of the best of the best. It is all made in America and is really high quality. His levers either the Love or Canti (depending on cable pull) are also really nice with sealed cartridge bearings for a smooth actuation and they feel nice in the hands as well. If you are looking for a cheaper alternative to his levers Avid Speed Dial 7s are quite nice.
If you have really good super tough rims in good shape you could get Magura hydraulic linear pull brakes, affectionately known as rim crushers. Those had some popularity in the 90s before disc brakes became the norm. Magura still makes them and they were popular on a lot of euro e-bikes and I think still in use for some Trials riders.
Unless your old brakes are really worn out I probably wouldn't switch to Tektro but they aren't terrible brakes and could have some features that provide useful for modernization. However at that point I would go to linear pull brakes. They are much easier to set up and less fiddly than cantilevers which a lot of folks do not care for. Again yes different cable pull so get the right lever for that brake.
If you want a sublime experience Paul Cantis or his MotoLite brakes are simply the best of the best of the best. It is all made in America and is really high quality. His levers either the Love or Canti (depending on cable pull) are also really nice with sealed cartridge bearings for a smooth actuation and they feel nice in the hands as well. If you are looking for a cheaper alternative to his levers Avid Speed Dial 7s are quite nice.
If you have really good super tough rims in good shape you could get Magura hydraulic linear pull brakes, affectionately known as rim crushers. Those had some popularity in the 90s before disc brakes became the norm. Magura still makes them and they were popular on a lot of euro e-bikes and I think still in use for some Trials riders.
Unless your old brakes are really worn out I probably wouldn't switch to Tektro but they aren't terrible brakes and could have some features that provide useful for modernization. However at that point I would go to linear pull brakes. They are much easier to set up and less fiddly than cantilevers which a lot of folks do not care for. Again yes different cable pull so get the right lever for that brake.
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The old style centre pull cantilever brakes as found on mountain bikes until the mid 90s have a design flaw - the mechanical advantage of pulling on the middle of the straddle cable goes down (less power) as the straddle cable goes up.
V brakes (linear pull) were a step up over even the best cantilever brakes. They must be used with V-brake compatible (long pull) levers, though. V brakes with canti (short pull) levers feel like garbage and are difficult to keep from rubbing.
V brakes (linear pull) were a step up over even the best cantilever brakes. They must be used with V-brake compatible (long pull) levers, though. V brakes with canti (short pull) levers feel like garbage and are difficult to keep from rubbing.
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Avid SD Mag v-brakes paired with Avid Speed Dial levers are great if you can find them. I had them on one of my mtb's until I converted to discs.
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If you want better braking at minimal investment. Get good shoes and good pads and make sure they are separate. If the name has Stop in it, it is probably good (like SwissStop or KoolStop). Shoes should be nice and stiff to provide best braking. Also invest in really good compressionless housing. I am a fan of the Jagwire Elite Link kits (which is light and can be nicely bling but also is super slick and smooth and the beads are reusable (so costs less just replacing a cheaper liner and cables rather than a full housing) but the Jagwire Pro is also just fine and uses a more standard housing. The kits come with just about everything you would need in most cases (and sometimes you will have extra stuff for the next project) Avoid coated cables as those can come off and get gummed up in the works. Also always avoid galvanized cables just get slick stainless uncoated cables and you are good as gold.
If you want a sublime experience Paul Cantis or his MotoLite brakes are simply the best of the best of the best. It is all made in America and is really high quality. His levers either the Love or Canti (depending on cable pull) are also really nice with sealed cartridge bearings for a smooth actuation and they feel nice in the hands as well. If you are looking for a cheaper alternative to his levers Avid Speed Dial 7s are quite nice.
If you have really good super tough rims in good shape you could get Magura hydraulic linear pull brakes, affectionately known as rim crushers. Those had some popularity in the 90s before disc brakes became the norm. Magura still makes them and they were popular on a lot of euro e-bikes and I think still in use for some Trials riders.
Unless your old brakes are really worn out I probably wouldn't switch to Tektro but they aren't terrible brakes and could have some features that provide useful for modernization. However at that point I would go to linear pull brakes. They are much easier to set up and less fiddly than cantilevers which a lot of folks do not care for. Again yes different cable pull so get the right lever for that brake.
If you want a sublime experience Paul Cantis or his MotoLite brakes are simply the best of the best of the best. It is all made in America and is really high quality. His levers either the Love or Canti (depending on cable pull) are also really nice with sealed cartridge bearings for a smooth actuation and they feel nice in the hands as well. If you are looking for a cheaper alternative to his levers Avid Speed Dial 7s are quite nice.
If you have really good super tough rims in good shape you could get Magura hydraulic linear pull brakes, affectionately known as rim crushers. Those had some popularity in the 90s before disc brakes became the norm. Magura still makes them and they were popular on a lot of euro e-bikes and I think still in use for some Trials riders.
Unless your old brakes are really worn out I probably wouldn't switch to Tektro but they aren't terrible brakes and could have some features that provide useful for modernization. However at that point I would go to linear pull brakes. They are much easier to set up and less fiddly than cantilevers which a lot of folks do not care for. Again yes different cable pull so get the right lever for that brake.
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Try koolstop salmons first if you're still unimpressed with the performance then rethink your brakes.
Visit sheldon brown for advise on setting up cantilever brakes
Visit sheldon brown for advise on setting up cantilever brakes
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Because billet.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Contro...-/133512216442
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Go old-school: Control Tech 'Jimi' Canti's.
Because billet.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Contro...-/133512216442
Because billet.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Contro...-/133512216442
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Hi there everyone. I'm trying to build up an old Specialized Hardrock steel frame circa 1995, I am doing this to learn new skills and give me a project to do.
I have some old brakes - Shimano BR 454, but I would like to use modern versions. Can anyone suggest a suitable replacement that will work with 26inch wheels please?
Many thanks
Andy
I have some old brakes - Shimano BR 454, but I would like to use modern versions. Can anyone suggest a suitable replacement that will work with 26inch wheels please?
Many thanks
Andy
i use these. like jewelry. work ok.
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No worries. I love spreading this knowledge, I want more people to know so they can improve their riding. People live with stuff because they think you really need to spend a ton to upgrade or maybe a small upgrade couldn't make that much of a difference when it really can. Also you can make big upgrades and love them and improve your bike so much and make you stare at it and give you the Homer Simpson donut face.
Bikes are awesome and making them better is ever awesomer.
Bikes are awesome and making them better is ever awesomer.
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My two cents:
1) Any cantilever brake, new or old and including the direct-pull or V-brake, will be fine if properly installed and maintained.
2) If you already have good, older, standard levers, they won’t work with direct-pull cantilevers, so you’d want to stick with some standard cantis unless you are willing to buy direct pull levers.
3) The overall mechanical advantage of the system is what matters, not that of any one part. Levers and brake arms both contribute. V-brake arms have about twice the advantage of standard cantilevers, but standard levers have almost twice the advantage of v-brake levers. The overall figure is the product, so the factors roughly offset and both standard and direct pull cantilevers have reasonable values of overall mechanical advantage.
4) There are still at least two good reasons to prefer direct pull brakes: there is zero risk of a main cable failure causing a straddle cable to fall onto the front tire and lock up the wheel (nothing good comes from that) and they are a bit simpler to install.
Otto
1) Any cantilever brake, new or old and including the direct-pull or V-brake, will be fine if properly installed and maintained.
2) If you already have good, older, standard levers, they won’t work with direct-pull cantilevers, so you’d want to stick with some standard cantis unless you are willing to buy direct pull levers.
3) The overall mechanical advantage of the system is what matters, not that of any one part. Levers and brake arms both contribute. V-brake arms have about twice the advantage of standard cantilevers, but standard levers have almost twice the advantage of v-brake levers. The overall figure is the product, so the factors roughly offset and both standard and direct pull cantilevers have reasonable values of overall mechanical advantage.
4) There are still at least two good reasons to prefer direct pull brakes: there is zero risk of a main cable failure causing a straddle cable to fall onto the front tire and lock up the wheel (nothing good comes from that) and they are a bit simpler to install.
Otto
#20
Senior Member
I upgraded to Shimano XTR BR-M970 V brakes and levers. You can find them used for a decent price (sometimes new, if you look around hard enough). They look good, require a much lighter touch that cantilever brakes, and their design gives you excellent modulation.
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