Monkey D.Luffy

Hi yall, looking for suggestions for a torque wrench set for handlebars, seatposts, on carbon parts, etc. Any recommended sets and where to get them? (I'm in the US). Thanks!

dsbrantjr

I'd suggest (and I use) a 1/4" and a 3/8" drive click-type torque wrench from Harbor Freight or similar. They are available for $10 (sale) or $20 and are quite adequate for bike use; you are not working on aircraft or spacecraft. Pick up a couple of sets of hex and Torx bits and sockets (another few dollars) and you should be set. There are available from Nashbar and the like, torque wrench sets but they are about $80 for a 1/4 inch driver and a few hex bits in a case unless you find a sale and do not appear to be any better than HF stuff to me. You will need to move up to 1/2" drive to tackle bottom brackets.

GeneO 

Harbor freight tools are pretty much complete cr*p in my experience.


If you get a click type wrench, make sure you treat it well, they will need recalibration by the manufacturer. They can, over time, under-torque as the spring wears. After each use you need to lower it to the lowest torque setting to prevent this.


You can calibrate beam type torque wrenches by yourself. However I find it hard to get consistent results, especially higher torques, but they do work and can be self-maintained.


The Park tools torque wrenches are very good. Unfortunately they have discontinued their beam type. But their click wrenches are very good.

TimothyH

Performance Bike's house brand is on sale right now. I own this set.

Spin Doctor Torque Wrench Set

@GeneO is correct about setting it to zero when stored. I also set it down on its back, never with the drive portion face down.

Also recommend staying away from Harbor Freight. Bang it or drop it once and it is toast.

Effeto Mariposa makes very high end torque wrenches. I lust after these... https://www.effettomariposa.eu/en/cat...p/giustaforza/


-Tim-

AnkleWork

Here's a pretty good one for most bike stuff:
Link

Here's one for BBs, cassettes, etc.:
Link

Monkey D.Luffy

Any opinion on this one? It looks almost the same as the Spin Doctor set. What kind of carbon grip paste do yall recommend too?

HillRider

Beam-type torque wrenches are less expensive, far less likely to go out of adjustment and are more rugged than click-type and are perfectly adequate for bicycle work since nothing is hidden and you can always see the wrench's reading.

Sears, Harbor Freight, and others sell decent beam wrenches. You need a 1/4" square drive wrench for low torque fasteners like handle bar clamps, seat post binders, etc. and a 1/2" square drive for high torque applications like bottom brackets, crank bolts and similar. A 3/8" square drive can be useful where the tho others don't overlap enough.

veloz

Ritchey torque keys are a great alternative. Trek-Bontrager make them too. The 1/4" Harbor Freight clicker wrench doesn't say high quality but checks accurate by me.

travbikeman

I've been very happy with this and different bits to connect to it and it's only $20:

WizardOfBoz

I use a torque wrench with a socket, so that I with the proper bit I can torque hex, torx, whatever. I also have a dedicated 6mm, 6Nm (IIRC) tee-handle click wrench for my seat post. Convenient to have a dedicated wrench for common torques and nut sizes.

But I have proto and an sk 1/4" drive torque wrenches that handle most requirements. I bought a set of 1/4" drive hex sockets. I used a 1/4 socket with torx bits to tighten stuff like the chainring bolts on a Dura-Ace crank. Done with proper lubrication, this eliminates the clicking whilst pedaling. I bought these used and tested them with a lever and a precise weight. You're an engineer: you can figure out how to do this. But do check any used wrenches you buy for calibration.

I also have a Sturtevant Richmont beam type wrench in 1/4" drive. As others have pointed out, these are great for durability.

The brands I cite above, Proto, SK, and Sturtevant Richmont are very good tool brands and should last a lifetime of bike work. Snap On is great, too, but very very expensive.

You can buy (for 99 cents!) an MTB 6Nm tee-handle click wrench with three bits on ebay...

gsa103

Bike generally use two types of torque levels. The first is finger tight (~5 Nm) small allen screws (stem, seat post, etc). A fixed value torque is the only thing that works for these. Standard torque wrenches are too inconvenient and don't allow good access.

Then there the large torque items, cranks, BB, lock-rings. For these you want either a 3/8" or 1/2" drive torque wrench, beam or click. Wait until Sears has a good sale, Craftsman stuff is decent quality (but not shop grade) and affordable.

Depending on the type of maintenance you typically do, you might not need both types.

nosloedone

Park TW5 and TW6 does it for me

deex

I have been using this. It is great and I don't fear it being out of whack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Drew Eckhardt 

But could be spending hundreds of dollars if you crack a carbon fiber part.

Bottom brackets and cassette lock rings are in the 35 - 60 Nm or 25 - 45 foot pound range which is still in 3/8" wrench territory, especially with micrometer style torque wrenches which aren't accurate in the bottom of their scale.

A longer handle is useful to break them loose, and you generally don't want to use a torque wrench like that.

( Split beam wrenches as made by Stahlwille and CDI unload the measuring mechanism after they click so that's OK; although we're talking $200 wrenches not $20, with getting a Stahlwille with that discount requiring ordering direct from Germany where cost is half US retail ).

TimothyH

This is not my experience. I've used a regular 1/4" drive torque wrench on bikes for years.



The one I linked to in post number 4 is Spin Doctor. It is a good wrench and comes with bits. I got it for $59 on sale several years ago. There are many other good wrenches out there. I really think people overthink this.

Just watch out for poor quality wrenches which are not accurate at the bottom and top ends of the scale - check the +/- accuracy specs before buying. Take care of it - don't drop it or bang it, always set it down on it's back, reset it to zero when you are done using it and store it in a reasonably dry and temperature controlled space and you will be OK.

Finish Line, Park and any number of manufacturers make good paste. I asked the guys at the local Performance Bike and they scooped up a bunch into a ziplock bag for me. Again, it isn't a big deal and don't overthink it.


-Tim-

nfmisso

For bike work you need at least 2 torque wrenches. Something like the above with a full scale in the 10 to 15 N-m range, and something with a full scale in the 50 to 100 ft-lbs range. For the latter, Harbor Freight clicker is fine. For the former - make sure you get a good one.

standard ¼" torque wrenches are NOT precise enough for handle bar stems, etc.

ThermionicScott 

I like the Craftsman beam-type ones myself, too. One other benefit is that you have a visual reference as you approach the right torque, rather than just tighter-tighter-tighter-CLICK.

squirtdad

I like that ...just ordered one

drlogik 

Cheap tools aren't cheap in the long-run. They cost you more money in broken tools, broken fasteners and stripped components. As far as torque wrenches, buy a good one. Why tighten the bolt on a $300 part with a $10 dollar torque wrench; or a $5,000.00 carbon frame??? That makes no sense. If you strip out that $300 component (or crack that carbon component/frame), you are now in the hole a lot of money. Good torque wrenches, in the scheme of things, aren't that expensive.

I have this one. It's a CDI ($54.00) and is variable from 2 to 8 Nm's, is made by Snap On to. You will have confidence using one this this:
CDI TorqControl 2 - 8 Nm Torque Wrench - TLA28NM

I also have one of these. For you use, handlebars, seat post, etc, this may be the better option. It's an Effetto Mariposa-Giustaforza, the best there is for working on bikes. This one isn't cheap ($125.00) but when I really want accuracy, I reach for this every time. No need to spend more for the pro model as this one works just fine:
Effetto Mariposa Giustaforza II 2-16 Deluxe Torque Wrench - Black (Includes Bits) | ProBikeKit.com

If you need to go beyond 16 Nm's, then you're probably talking more expensive and bigger parts. In that case, I'd shop for a used Snap On 3/8" drive dial-type torque wrench on eBay.


-

HillRider

I've also never had any problems using a 1/4" sq drive regular beam wrench and allen bit sockets on any of these fittings.

rydabent

+1, and they have a life time guarantee.

Plus-----------with the beam type you can bring the torque up to spec in steps. Example if the recommended torque is 30 foot pounds, on a 4 bolt clamp, do 10 FP and then 20 FP and then finally the full 30 foot pounds.

deex

Sometimes an inexpensive and simple tool is all that is needed. If you wrench on a bike as a professional then yes buy the expensive stuff. If you just need to adjust your seat post then a really expensive tool is overkill. When it comes to cheaper tools I opt for the less complicated ones as they will have less of a chance to malfunction.

TimothyH

The CDI is nice. Thanks for pointing it out.

I should have gotten the Giustaforza II a long time ago and this thread has me thinking about springing for one. PBK has an attractive price.

Thanks again.


-Tim-

Doc V

I have used the Nashbar Torque Wrench with good results. It is not too expensive and works.

Grand Bois

All but the beam-type require periodic recalibration. It's an added expense to consider.