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Upgrade to 10-sp or not?

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Upgrade to 10-sp or not?

Old 03-19-18, 08:44 AM
  #26  
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It looks nice and functional. I have the 105 10-speed shifters on my 1974 Raleigh International. The rest is a mixture. FD is an Ultegra, and RD is a new Sora. I'm not sure if I'm using a shifter intended for a double crankset, but I got it to work, so I have a 3x10 drivetrain, fairly unusual.
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Old 03-20-18, 06:35 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
It looks nice and functional. I have the 105 10-speed shifters on my 1974 Raleigh International. The rest is a mixture. FD is an Ultegra, and RD is a new Sora.
The only thing not part of the group on mine is the FD, which is 1050. Still 105 but like three or four generations behind. I couldn't be bothered to scour the classifieds for a 5700.

Originally Posted by noglider View Post
I'm not sure if I'm using a shifter intended for a double crankset, but I got it to work, so I have a 3x10 drivetrain, fairly unusual.
As long as it works.
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Old 03-20-18, 11:11 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mcours2006 View Post
This bike has a short wheel base as well, so getting the shifting right is tricky. Still working on it.
Just eyeballing it, I'd first make sure the chain isn't too long. Secondly, I'd move the axle forward in the dropouts -- indexing seems to work best when the axle is at the mid-point or further ahead. Lastly, I'd try letting out the B-screw a bit -- having the RD cocked backward too much increases the chain gap, which slows the shift. (That last thought might just be an artifact of seeing the bike in the small ring and a few cogs away from the smallest.)
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Old 03-20-18, 11:54 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
Just eyeballing it, I'd first make sure the chain isn't too long. Secondly, I'd move the axle forward in the dropouts -- indexing seems to work best when the axle is at the mid-point or further ahead. Lastly, I'd try letting out the B-screw a bit -- having the RD cocked backward too much increases the chain gap, which slows the shift. (That last thought might just be an artifact of seeing the bike in the small ring and a few cogs away from the smallest.)
Thanks for the suggestions.

First, I calculated the chain length according to Sheldon Brown's method of putting the chain around the large-large, and overlapping by one complete link. Not that I would use the big-big combo, so I could conceivably remove one more link, though Mr. Brown does warn against this. He writes:

If the chain is too short, it will be at risk for jamming and possibly ruining the rear derailer if you accidentally shift into the large-large combination. Never run with a chain that is too short, except in an emergency.

Second, would that even shorten the wheelbase even more and would cause more rub than having the axle further back? Sounds counter-intuitive, but I'm willing to give it a try when I get home.

Last, I will try to play with the B-screw and see if makes a difference.

Having test-ridden it, though only on a couple of gears, for about 10 km I gotta say I am really digging the ride. I hadn't ridden it for a long time. Even with a 23/25 combo f/b, it's smooth and comfortable.
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Old 03-22-18, 09:10 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mcours2006 View Post
Thanks for the suggestions.

First, I calculated the chain length according to Sheldon Brown's method of putting the chain around the large-large, and overlapping by one complete link. Not that I would use the big-big combo, so I could conceivably remove one more link, though Mr. Brown does warn against this. He writes:

If the chain is too short, it will be at risk for jamming and possibly ruining the rear derailer if you accidentally shift into the large-large combination. Never run with a chain that is too short, except in an emergency.

Second, would that even shorten the wheelbase even more and would cause more rub than having the axle further back? Sounds counter-intuitive, but I'm willing to give it a try when I get home.

Last, I will try to play with the B-screw and see if makes a difference.

Having test-ridden it, though only on a couple of gears, for about 10 km I gotta say I am really digging the ride. I hadn't ridden it for a long time. Even with a 23/25 combo f/b, it's smooth and comfortable.
Oh yeah, I wouldn't shorten the chain in that case. Big-big + 1" is the absolute shortest I'll go on any bike.

What "rub" are you getting? Rear tire with a chainstay, or tire and FD...?
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Old 03-22-18, 09:24 AM
  #31  
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I struggled for 2 years to get my 105 5700 rear shifting dialed in. It was always super sensitive and finicky.

Finally fixed it by swapping to Campy 😄
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Old 03-22-18, 12:06 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
What "rub" are you getting? Rear tire with a chainstay, or tire and FD...?
Maybe 'rub' isn't the right descriptor for it. I believe the high and low positions are set up properly on the RD. It's the same I have it set up on my other two 10-speeds (another 5700 and 7900). From there it should be just a matter of setting the tension on the cable using the barrel adjuster(s). The problem I run into is that when there's enough tension to move the RD to the next low gear, there's too much tension (not enough slack) to shift up to the higher gear (smaller cog), and vice versa. It almost makes me think that there's too much friction in the cable, either at the turn under the BB or the housing leading to the RD.

Anyway, I did adjust the B-screw. No effect on the shifting.
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Old 03-22-18, 12:09 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ksryder View Post
I struggled for 2 years to get my 105 5700 rear shifting dialed in. It was always super sensitive and finicky.
I have the same groupset on my Rapid, which granted, has a longer wheelbase and longer chainstay, and it shifts flawlessly. I gotta think it's the short wheelbase/chainstay and/or too much friction in the cable. I've only had it set up for a week.
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Old 03-22-18, 12:26 PM
  #34  
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I've got 9 on my commuter, and am kind of thinking about moving it to 8, though that will take some changes. There are gear changes on the 9 where I can't really tell that anything changed, so clearly I don't need that many, and 9/10 speed chains and components cost 3x as much as 7/8
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Old 03-22-18, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ItsJustMe View Post
I've got 9 on my commuter, and am kind of thinking about moving it to 8, though that will take some changes. There are gear changes on the 9 where I can't really tell that anything changed, so clearly I don't need that many, and 9/10 speed chains and components cost 3x as much as 7/8
True. But this isn't really going to be a 'commuter', per se. I'd ride it a few times to work in fair and warm weather, but it's more of a weekend rider. In my OP I was contemplating on putting the 5700 on one of my main commuters.
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