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Felt DA buildup

Old 11-15-18, 08:04 AM
  #1  
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Felt DA buildup

Well, I posted up on Slowtwitch and the local Chapel Hill bike group areas asking if anyone had essentially a "bin job" time trial frame. Not something like shrapnel of carbon in a bucket, but maybe something that was a 5 to 10 year old frame with the components picked off of it.

A guy in CH responded "have one for free, come get it". I looked up the frame before driving out, legit frame. Went to get it, needs work, but nothing un-manageable at all. He rode it as-is for quite a while.

Basically it's a 2008-2010 Felt DA with bayonet fork. Also gave me an HED base bar and a pretty run of the mill 105 crank with a pretty used Rotor Q ring. We'll see there, the ring looks a bit used but I need to clean it first.

Lots to do on the to-do list.

Base bar is really nice, but, may prove problematic given it's out of production and needs the clamps for the skis. They're a weird part. I could borrow time on the BIL's milling machine and mill out a pair of clamps for about $15 in material I guess, then use the skis from my current TT clip on's.

I'll post progress pics as things happen.

So far, just disassembled the rest. It took a while to drill out and easy-out a fastener and get the headset/fork apart. I wiped it down so I don't track grease everywhere when I work on it.

Next: probably will do the carbon repair on the chainstay this weekend. It's in a very easy spot and I'm pretty sure I have plenty of leftover resin/fabric from my last job.

So, here it is:

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Old 11-16-18, 07:30 AM
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Nice! I recently picked up a 2013 54cm DA Frame (new) that I'm setting up for next season. Gave me about 30mm less stack than the 56 Slice I rode this season, needed room to play with a lower front end. I have the fit roughed in and may get it out sometime the next week or so. It certainly looks the part.
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Old 11-16-18, 11:54 AM
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Sand/cut out the rot, put on new, wait to cure. I can see why you sand out so far. While you're teasing the fabric and resin onto the part it's not a super tidy affair. This repair will be solid, I did a patch on the spot and 3x wrap around. However, I think the edges on this one will be a bit uglier than my other repair job I've done. That job got painted anyway.

This is a fun project given the low investment. When you've dumped thousands into a brand new bike you feel really apprehensive messing with things too much. This thing? Nope. Of course I'm not going to get all ham fisted with it.

I'm probably going to get a Wheelbuilder disc cover for my spare wheels and a Superteam tri-spoke on the front. Yes, a superteam. It's a budget build. If I can find a 10 speed rear disc cheap I'll do that instead of the cover.

Next task is fabbing up attaching my skis/pads to the HED base bar. Can't decide if I want to fab a bracket or just drill the base bar. The bar is huge, and solid. It is not hollow, it's a pretty heavy hunk of carbon for what it is. There "may" be room beside the stem for the original clip on clamps, but I'd have to maybe shave a tiny bit from the clamps to fit them.

I'll likely try that first as it is less destructive.

Original:


Cut out, mostly:


The stretched electrical tape pressure cure:
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Old 11-16-18, 05:35 PM
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You're way more committed than me. I almost gave up trying to route some internal cable/hose for my new gravel bike last weekend after the guide fell out. Never in a thousand years would I think of carbon repair for myself!
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Old 11-16-18, 06:10 PM
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nicely done. a few question/comment

-how much effort (time and money) are you willing to put into this? I ask b/c this is one of those do it once/do it right type of things.
-What is free may not be what is best for your purpose. The older stuff doesn't have as much adjustment, so be aware there. Something that allows for quite a bit of adjustment (like Vuka alumina) may be a better option here
-along those lines, if possible, get Di2; makes position adjustment (and you'll have quite a few of these) a lot easier
-don't skimp on the small stuff. I think I raced with shot derailleur pulleys for a year; probably stole 5-10 watts.

Good luck and have fun


PS. Hope you are wearing a N95 mask while doing the CF work
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Old 11-17-18, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by echappist View Post
nicely done. a few question/comment

-how much effort (time and money) are you willing to put into this? I ask b/c this is one of those do it once/do it right type of things.
-What is free may not be what is best for your purpose. The older stuff doesn't have as much adjustment, so be aware there. Something that allows for quite a bit of adjustment (like Vuka alumina) may be a better option here
-along those lines, if possible, get Di2; makes position adjustment (and you'll have quite a few of these) a lot easier
-don't skimp on the small stuff. I think I raced with shot derailleur pulleys for a year; probably stole 5-10 watts.

Good luck and have fun


PS. Hope you are wearing a N95 mask while doing the CF work
-All in, if I sell an old golf putter of mine worth a little, will be about $250. Without, about $350.
-Di2 is way out of the cost range, I'm not going to run cables until I put it on the trainer and setup my laptop camera so I can see myself on the TV and take some pics, and make adjustments.
-I am replacing worn stuff as I find it. I got a used FD/RD for cheap, but if the jockey wheels look or feel crap I'll replace them.
-I did go with new chain, the cassette on the wheels I'll use is in great shape. I may have to spring for the chainring though. The one I was given is worn a bit.

Stan's special HED basebar....I can dig it. Those pads can adjust about 1.5" fore/aft. I use the same width on my roadie clip on setup.



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Old 11-19-18, 11:46 AM
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Finished the carbon repair yesterday/today. I laid one extra layer for cosmetic purposes and got it sanded down nicely. I use a pretty conservative grit at the expense of more time to avoid any mistakes. Owning a random orbital DA helps a lot too.


Probably about the best I could do at that as an amateur.

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Old 11-26-18, 08:26 AM
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Lots of progress, but waiting on the "money shot" photos once I finish tonight. Running cables was made easy by the ingenious Felt internal pathways. It was a bit difficult deciding how to terminate the rear brake cable. It's such a short distance from the brake end to the cable inlet on the frame that the cable housing doesn't flex easy enough to allow smooth caliper movement.

I ended up mounting the flexy end of the cable that would go under bar tape for a drop bar bike on that end. Worked.

I need to adjust the set screw on the dropout position for the rear wheel. Otherwise, shifting appears it will work once a chain is on it.

I went with 11spd so I can swap the wheelset between this bike and the road bike. I'll also use the road bike saddle for now. Cost consciousness.

If the test rides go well, I'll be after a used front tri-spoke and rear disc for it. It's meant to be a 1 hour and less rocket ship, not a 4 hour ride luxury barge. Probably even 1/2 hour and less seat time.

I'm a bit concerned about why an original owner had the chain scar in the first place. I repaired that nicely, but want to prevent any future issues. It really looked like a chain suck up into the stay, not a drop into the inside. Nothing a preventive black zip-tie can't help. But still.
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Old 11-27-18, 07:10 AM
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Presenting the finished product..................black dynamite.


No test rides yet to setup anything position wise. Pads are about 5" below seat. I took the pics sitting on the floor looking upwards.

I'm going to buy top tube bag (bento box?) for training rides only so I can do longer test rides in the skinsuit.

Specs:
2008 Felt DA, Bayonet SL fork
Giant PSLR wheels
54t big ring
Older HED basebar custom adopted to my pads/skis
Mechanical 11spd Shimano
Just some used 105 derailleurs, probably 1x setup eventually (50T compact for training rides, and 54/56T for TT)
Some old Giant seat I had in the closet for now
No Gators, shame on you all training on Gators.......GP4000's to train, Conti TT's to race




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Old 11-28-18, 09:03 PM
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What was your overall investment into this bike. I bet for the price / kmph you'll win every tt you enter.

Until you race this guy. https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/p...or-2016-190067
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Old 11-29-18, 06:46 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Ttoc6 View Post
What was your overall investment into this bike. I bet for the price / kmph you'll win every tt you enter.

Until you race this guy. https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/p...or-2016-190067
Got him beat so far. $250 all in. Wheels from the roadie I already had.

Lets say itís fair to split the cost in half on those. Got those in 10spd and converted to 11. Total cost $450. So $225 per bike if split.

But current actual out of pocket added to stuff I got for free or had in a bin is $250.

Cables: $70
Brakes: $100
Carbon repair: free, leftover from another job
Deraileurs: $25
chain: $25
clipons: already had for a few years
new hardware for corroded stuff: $7
Rattle can of clear: from old carbon repair job
Missing seat clamp piece: $10
Frameset: free
Saddle: old road saddle I had laying around
Basebar: given as well
Meter: from roadie also, was cheap and used also
Crankset: yup, gave me that also, I repainted with leftovers I had in shed and cleaned it up
Pedals: from roadie

$475 with sharing wheels, if I buy a disc cover $575.

Still under a $1k if I buy a Superteam trispoke or used HED 3.

I have some seat time and training to earn buying those.

If I hit a good new PR on my tenner route Iíll upgrade. Or sell a golf club I have thatís worth a little coin.

My neighborhood is **** for a TT bike, hills cars and curves. But I did a couple minutes tonight on it. With just road kit and helmet when I turtle my head and get the shoulders in and get up to threshold.....sucker moves.

I ainít nobody as far as power, but giving it a pursuit power effort itís terrifying fast. For me thatís about 320 to 350 for 4 minutes. Not flat enough long enough in the neighborhood for any data yet. Pursuit workouts on the road near my work will be super fun.
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Old 12-22-18, 03:24 PM
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Acquired some TT specific wheels. I converted the Renn disc to 11spd yesterday. I'm stretching out a tub on it right now before gluing it. HED 3c on the front.

Once all the tubs and spares are bought, stretched, glued and in waiting........I'll try a ride with the TT race wheels.

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Old 12-26-18, 05:27 PM
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very cool @burnthesheep. I'd like to put together a TT rig for cheap/over time at some point and view it as a bit of a project. Question, did you have a fitting session done for TT at any point? How did you determine the fit???
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Old 12-28-18, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TMonk View Post
very cool @burnthesheep. I'd like to put together a TT rig for cheap/over time at some point and view it as a bit of a project. Question, did you have a fitting session done for TT at any point? How did you determine the fit???
Fit? Working on position now. I think the skis are beyond the 75cm limit so the pads/skis need to come back some. It feels comfy and I can generate power though. I just look for flattish back, good head tuck and helmet transition to back, and decent hip angle for making power.

But hereís where it is for now, I just do a video and try it a bit to see how it feels.

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Old 12-28-18, 09:28 PM
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Well...trying again later. Iím not fast enough for the UCI to come hunting for me at some cat 4/5 stuff, but the skis gotta come back a good bit.

I found my fabric tape measure and it says ďsuperman doesnít race bikesĒ.

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Old 12-29-18, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by burnthesheep View Post
Well...trying again later. Iím not fast enough for the UCI to come hunting for me at some cat 4/5 stuff, but the skis gotta come back a good bit.

I found my fabric tape measure and it says ďsuperman doesnít race bikesĒ.
And just in case you do not know this...measurement is from the end of the shifters on the aerobars, not the ends of the bars. Hence, most have gone to electronic shifting to get more aerobar extension. Also, you are allowed one morphological exception. It is hard to know but it looks like the nose of your saddle is within 5 cm of the crank centerline. So you could move your seat nose 5 cm behind the crank centerline and take 80 cm for the aerobars versus 75 cm. That is what I do.

And you are allowed to have the tips of the aerobars 10 cm above the centerline of the handlebar. The goal is to put your arms at an angle i.e. up and not parallel to the ground. However, again it will be measured from the ends of the shifters and it looks like you are at or above 10 cm and your arms are level. This may not be your fastest position compared to others who have different bars.

I would tilt the bars more even though that will put you out of UCI compliance but beware that tilting the bars up is not the fastest position for all riders. In general, it is the fastest position for most riders and no one knows why that is including the guys who do aero testing. The only way to know is to test.
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Old 01-05-19, 06:35 PM
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Iíll try that for the skis/hands angle.

I adjusted the skis and cups back 1 inch and it was like discovering Rosettas stone or something. Much more comfy and stable ride.

More important, power came up to match road bike output. At no real aero cost.

I passed the A+ local group ride today while on a 35mi test ride. Woot woot. Seeing a 30 person paceline hear ďpassing on your leftĒ is priceless. Kind of like, wait, what?!

I saw them about 1/4 mile up and it was like a carrot on a string to a rabbit.

This updated fit is stellar comfy, stable, and powerful.

Cant wait to have some time for just a pursuit workout or hammer time versus just tempo.
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