Space between Crank Arm & BB Normal?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 164
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 81 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
Space between Crank Arm & BB Normal?
Hello, I recently swapped GXP BB for BB86 Shimano for Shimano 105 crankset (BB was done by LBS). I installed the crankset & noticed this gap on the non drive side. There is no wiggle or play if I yank on the arm. Does this require a spacer? Or is it good to go as is?
Also, I had to use a rubber mallet to get the crank to seat as it was a pretty tight fit and when I turn the pedals backwards it feels a bit tight & does not spin freely. LBS told me this is normal per Shimano & should loosen up within a few weeks. Is that normal? My GXP crank did not feel this tight even immediately after a BB swap.
Thanks!
Also, I had to use a rubber mallet to get the crank to seat as it was a pretty tight fit and when I turn the pedals backwards it feels a bit tight & does not spin freely. LBS told me this is normal per Shimano & should loosen up within a few weeks. Is that normal? My GXP crank did not feel this tight even immediately after a BB swap.
Thanks!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 4,396
Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked 448 Times
in
337 Posts
Hello, I recently swapped GXP BB for BB86 Shimano for Shimano 105 crankset (BB was done by LBS). I installed the crankset & noticed this gap on the non drive side. There is no wiggle or play if I yank on the arm. Does this require a spacer? Or is it good to go as is?
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,064
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 122 Times
in
90 Posts
Shimano road BB are 91mm overall width to the end caps, on a shell of 68mm . If it's not 91mm a little over or under may be ok , but if it's under by a lot and causing the spindle splines to bottom out on the left arm, then you need to shim either the BB cups or the spindle. The innermost surface of the crank should touch the end cap, not counting the o-ring which is supposed to compress. If it's not touching because of bottoming out, then check shimming as above. You're supposed to tighten the compression bolt on the left arm to something like 2Nm, you can check the Shimano instructions for the exact value. You do this while the 2 clamping bolts are loose. After you have the compression bolt set, then tighten the 2 clamping bolts. Follow the torque instructions.
#5
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 265
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 125 Post(s)
Liked 29 Times
in
24 Posts
Could it be that the LBS accidentally installed MTB BB into road frame? No experience with BB86, but both threaded and pressfit Shimano standard BB cups are slightly differently sized for road and MTB. If used without spacers under cups, the MTB BB with road crankset in 68mm produces similar result as pictured.
#6
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 265
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 125 Post(s)
Liked 29 Times
in
24 Posts
The need for a mallet to get the crank in is not suspicious, but the "does not spin freely" is very odd, almost sounds like axial misalignment between the bearings - have those been pressed in properly?
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 164
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 81 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
So I took it back to the LBS to get a second mechanic's look at it, he agreed that the left crank needed a shim & installed one. What the first mechanic said seems to be true, as I rode for about an hour on it it spins much more freely than it did when I first installed it, although it won't spin forever it does feel much more free than before. Thanks for the responses, guys, glad I took it back and am sure that everything is ok!